CertainTeed
Installation Guide
Vinyl and Polymer Siding
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Top Ten Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding
Scan for our latest Vinyl
and Polymer Siding
Installation video.
CertainTeed provides quality vinyl siding and accessories that are
backed by one of the industry’s best warranties. However, even
the best products fall short of expectations if they are not installed
properly. Following these ten recommendations—the basics of a
professional installation—can help ensure a quality installation that
fulfills homeowners’ expectations and reduces call backs.
1. Install all siding and accessories over a smooth, flat surface.
Always install siding over a rigid sheathing, and never install it
over open studs.
2. Vinyl siding is not a watertight material. Install a weather-resistant
barrier, like CertainTeed CertaWrap and flash around all windows
and doors before installing vinyl siding and trim.
3. There are three recommended ways to cut vinyl siding:
For rip cuts, score the panel with a knife or vinyl blade and bend
the panel back and forth. Use aviator snips or shears to fit panels
around windows and doors. For cross cuts, use a circular saw with
a plywood blade in the reverse position.
4. Always leave room for expansion and contraction into receiving
channels like outside cornerposts, inside cornerposts, and
J-channel. If the temperature is above 40°, leave 1/4"; if the
temperature is below 40°, leave 3/8".
5. When installing horizontal vinyl siding panels 12' 6" in length or
shorter, overlap the factory notches 1" to 1-1/4" (depending on the
temperature).
6. Always nail in the center of the nail slots: 16" on center for siding;
8" to 12" for accessories.
7. DO NOT NAIL TIGHT! Always leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail
head and the wall surface to allow for movement when the panel
expands and contracts.
8. Hang vertical accessories from the top of the top nail slot.
If the accessory is longer than 12', hang it from the top two
nail slots.
9. Lap away from the highest traffic pattern, typically the front of the
house. Keep laps at least 3' apart from course to course, and
install three courses between laps above each other.
10. Finish the last piece of siding into utility trim or dual utility trim.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Become a CertainTeed
Master Craftsman
The CertainTeed Master Craftsman program is your opportunity to earn valuable rewards while maintaining a leg up
on your competition. These rewards are not available to everyone, just to those who have successfully passed the
Master Craftsman Education and Development test.
For more information about the CertainTeed Master
As a Master Craftsman, you are entitled to:
Craftsman program, call
• Receive a personalized Certificate of Completion that
you can use to promote your professional services.
800-233-8990
• Be listed as a Master Craftsman on our contractor
locator website, where potential customers can find
you. The listing will include your name, company
name, phone number, e-mail address, and a link
to your website if you have one.
or log on to
www.certainteed.com/
mastercraftsman
• Have access to the Master Craftsman website,
®
which includes Building Solutions program
information, industry news and information,
and product and installation updates.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Important Information
Warranties
Lead Renovations
These instructions describe and illustrate the steps
involved in installing CertainTeed siding, trim, and
accessories. Their purpose is to provide detailed
information and how-to tips that will simplify the
installation process. CertainTeed shall not accept any
liability or responsibility under its written warranty for
failure caused by application that does not meet the
requirements for proper installation. These requirements
are outlined throughout this book. Any deviations from
these requirements should be addressed and approved
in writing by CertainTeed Corporation.
Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have
paint that contains high levels of lead (called lead-based
paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose
serious health hazards if not taken care of properly.
You can find out about safety measures for lead-based
paint by calling 1-800-424-LEAD. Ask for the brochure
“Reducing Lead Hazards When Remodeling Your
Home.” That brochure explains what to do before,
during, and after renovations.
Important Fire Safety Information
In rare instances, intense sunlight reflected from glass
on vinyl siding may create heat buildup and cause the
siding to distort. To help minimize the effects of heat
buildup from reflected sun, the homeowner may take
one or more of the following measures:
Exterior vinyl building materials require little
maintenance for many years. Nevertheless, common
sense dictates that builders and suppliers of vinyl
products store, handle and install vinyl materials in a
manner that avoids damage to the product and/or
the structure. Owners and installers should take a few
simple steps to protect vinyl building materials from fire:
• Install a screen in the window causing the problem.
• Install an awning over the window to break the line
of light reflection.
• To Home and Building Owners: Rigid vinyl siding
is made from organic materials and will melt or
burn when exposed to a significant source of
flame or heat. Building owners, occupants and
outside maintenance personnel should always take
normal precautions to keep sources of fire, such as
barbecues, and combustible materials, such as dry
leaves, mulch and trash, away from vinyl siding.
• Use shrubbery to protect the area of siding
from reflections.
For more information on the potential damaging effects
of concentrated solar reflection, visit the VSI website
at http://www.vinylsiding.org/aboutsiding/cleanmain/
solarandheat/index.asp
• To the Building Trades, Specifiers, Professionals
and Do-It-Yourself Installers: When rigid vinyl siding
is exposed to significant heat or flame, the vinyl will
soften, sag, melt or burn, and may thereby expose
material underneath. Care must be exercised when
selecting underlayment materials because many
underlayment materials are made from organic
materials that are combustible. You should ascertain
the fire properties of underlayment materials prior to
installation. All building materials should be installed
in accordance with local, state and federal building
codes and fire regulations.
Building codes and regulations vary throughout
the country. Be sure to check with your local
code official or governing body for the building
requirements in your area.
New OSHA Fall Protection
Compliance Directives
STD 03-11-002 Compliance Guidance for Residential
Construction was issued on Dec. 6, 2010 and went
into effect June 16, 2011. For more information visit
www.OSHA.gov or consult your local State OSHA plan.
This manual shows the basic guidelines for installation. It is based on ASTM (American Society for Testing and Materials) D4756, the standard
practice for installation of vinyl siding and soffit. Additionally, we recommend that local building codes be reviewed.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Top Ten Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding.........................1
Become a CertainTeed Master Craftsman...................2
Important Information .................................................3
Nail Spacing and Product
Expansion and Contraction...................................35
Installing Accessories ...............................................37
Outside Cornerposts ................................................38
Extra Wide Cornerposts ...........................................40
Inside Cornerposts ...................................................41
Federal Corners........................................................42
Inside Federal Corners..............................................42
Bay Window Corners................................................43
SECTION 1 — Introduction .....................................6
SECTION 2 — Siding Overview
Home Exterior Terms..................................................7
Features of Polymer Shake Siding ..............................8
Polymer Shake and Shingle Siding Styles ...................9
Traditional Vinyl Siding Terms....................................10
Vinyl Siding Styles.....................................................11
Insulated Siding Styles..............................................12
Decorative Trim Options around
Windows and Doors.............................................44
Window Flashing ......................................................45
Window and Door Trim.............................................46
Snap-on Lineals .......................................................47
SECTION 3 — Vinyl Soffit and Ventilation
Features of Vinyl Soffit ..............................................13
Lineal Starter Application for Windows
and Door Surrounds.............................................49
SECTION 4 — Accessories and Tools
Lineal Application around Windows ..........................50
Lineals over Horizontal Siding...................................53
Capping a Lineal Used as a Rake.............................53
Corner Blocks ..........................................................54
Corner Systems........................................................14
Lineals......................................................................16
Decorative Trim.........................................................16
J-Channels...............................................................17
Functional Trim .........................................................18
Starter Strips ............................................................18
Soffit Trim .................................................................20
Equipment and Tools................................................21
5" Square Header with Endcaps over
3-1/2" Lineals Sides and Bottoms ........................55
Creating End Caps for 5" Lineals ..............................56
Slip Joints for Lineal Corners ....................................57
Crown Molding Treatment Options ...........................58
Crown Molding and Cap for 3/4"
Transporting and Storing
Vinyl Siding and Polymer Shakes...........................22
Pocket J-Channel.................................................59
Crown Molding with 3-1/2" Lineal Surround..............59
Crown Molding with Cap for 5" Header Lineal...........60
Band Board..............................................................62
Blind Miter................................................................64
Lineal Frieze Board...................................................64
Finishing with Cornice Molding and Receiver ............65
Installing J-Channel as Gable End Trim.....................66
Using Lineals as Gable Trim......................................67
Restoration Millwork Trim..........................................68
Special Tools ............................................................23
SECTION 5 — Estimating
Siding.......................................................................24
Measuring ................................................................26
Estimating Form .......................................................27
SECTION 6 — Preparing for Horizontal Siding
Preparing Wall Surfaces............................................28
™
CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier .....................29
Nailing, Stapling and Other Fastening Methods.........33
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
SECTION 7 — Installing Horizontal Siding
Cedar Impressions Inside Cornerpost.....................108
Cedar Impressions Bay Window Cornerposts.........109
Half-Round Shingles...............................................110
Half-Round Shingles in Gable Ends ........................113
Cedar Impressions on a Steep Rake.......................116
Cedar Impressions on Non-vertical Walls................116
Top Ten Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding.......................70
Cutting Panels..........................................................71
Overlapping Panels...................................................71
™
STUDfinder Installation System for 12' Panels ........72
™
STUDfinder Installation System
for Oversized Panels.............................................73
Preparing Wall Surfaces............................................74
Completion...............................................................78
Shutter Installation....................................................79
Starting Cedar Impressions with Lineals
over Horizontal Siding.........................................117
Starting Cedar Impressions
over Horizontal Siding.........................................118
Application of Half-Round Shingle under Soffit........119
Special Effects with Cedar Impressions ..................120
SECTION 8 — Installing Vertical Siding
(including Board & Batten)
Replacing a Damaged Cedar Impressions
Panel with the Repair Kit.....................................121
Preparing Wall Surfaces............................................80
Cornerposts .............................................................81
Top and Bottom J-Channel.......................................81
J-Channel at Gable Ends..........................................82
Wall Panels...............................................................83
Gable End Panels.....................................................84
Replacing a Damaged Cedar Impressions Panel ....124
Northwoods S7" and S9" Shakes ..........................125
CedarBoards Insulated Siding ................................127
Band Board............................................................133
SECTION 11 — Special Situations
SECTION 9 — Porch Ceilings, Soffit, Fascia
Trimming Curved Openings ....................................135
Frieze Board...........................................................136
Decorative Sunbursts .............................................136
Requirements for Proper Soffit Ventilation .................85
Porch Ceilings ..........................................................86
Soffit.........................................................................88
SECTION 12 — Repair
Triple 3-1/3 Solid and InvisiVent Soffit
Replacing a Damaged Siding Panel........................139
Replacing a Damaged Outside Cornerpost.............139
Repairing Buckled Siding at the Joist......................140
and Perimeter Soffit..............................................91
Vinyl Fascia...............................................................92
SECTION 10 — Installing Specific
CertainTeed Products
SECTION 13 — Miscellaneous
Cedar Impressions Shingles and Shakes..................94
D7 Straight Edge Perfection Shingles .......................95
T5 Straight Edge Perfection Shingles .......................97
D9 Staggered Rough-Split Shakes ........................100
D7 Straight Edge Rough-Split Shakes ....................102
D7 Staggered Perfection Shingles ..........................104
Cleaning Vinyl Siding ..............................................141
Siding Over Asbestos .............................................142
Historic Restoration ................................................142
Lead Renovations...................................................143
For More Information ..............................................143
Index ......................................................................144
Glossary.................................................................146
Cornice Cap with Cedar Impressions
Mitered Cornerpost ............................................106
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Section 1 — Introduction
Introduction
Plan your work, then work your plan.
That’s the key to success with any project, and it’s doubly true
when it comes to installing vinyl siding, soffit, trim and accessories.
If you use the right materials and the right tools in the right order,
you’ll complete remodeling and new home installations in less
time, with less effort, and with far greater satisfaction.
Since you’re using CertainTeed products, you’ve already taken
the first step toward success. CertainTeed sidings, soffit, trim
and accessories provide premium quality, rugged durability and
outstanding appearance. Quite simply, they’re made to look
great—on the day they’re installed and for years after.
The second ingredient of success —using the proper tools,
techniques and procedures—is covered in this book. As you’ll see
by scanning the table of contents, this book guides you through
every step of the installation process, from estimating materials to
attaching mailboxes and shutters. Every major installation project
is covered: horizontal; vertical, including Board & Batten; soffit
and fascia; porch ceilings; and decorative trim. Where various
approaches to a particular installation procedure are possible,
the book presents practical alternatives. To make the instructions
as detailed and complete as possible, hundreds of illustrations
accompany the text.
As you’re reading—and while you’re working—keep in mind the
most important rule of thumb for successful vinyl siding installation:
allow for movement. All vinyl siding, soffit and accessories
used in exterior applications must be able to move freely as they
expand and contract with temperature changes. You’ll see this
point emphasized again and again throughout this book; you’ll also
learn various techniques for measuring, fitting and nailing that will
allow this unobstructed movement. These are perhaps the most
important lessons in this booklet.
NOTE: No instruction book can anticipate all the questions
that might arise during a siding or soffit installation.
Recognizing this, we’ve focused on the tools and techniques
used to complete typical installations. Where appropriate,
we’ve also included alternative approaches for specific
installation steps. If you encounter a unique installation
problem not covered in this book, we suggest you contact
your building materials distributor or call our Sales Support
Group at 1-800-233-8990.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
SECTION 2 — Siding Overview
Home Exterior Terms
Gable
Vertical Siding
Rake
Dormer
Soffit
Fascia
Siding
Outside
cornerpost
Inside
cornerpost
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Features of Polymer Shake Siding
QuickReferenceTM Nail Mark Indicators
• Industry exclusive easy-to-use nailing guide
• No measuring needed for correct panel nailing
QuickReferenceTM Panel Cut Indicators
• Improves speed and ease of installation
Patented PanelThermometerTM
• Displays panel temperature!
• Easy-to-use temperature gauge
• The brightest cell indicates panel temperature
• Increases installation accuracy, decreases call backs
Extra Long Top Locking Tabs
• Create an easier locking panel
A
0
30 65 100 130 160
0°F
30°F
0°F
30°F
65°F
65°F
100°F
130°F
100°F
130°F
Straight-Up Installation
• Notched side laps allow you to push in and straight-up to
lock the panel securely — just like traditional vinyl siding!
Oversized Perimeter
Side Locking Tabs
• Helps create seamless appearance
Deep Panel Projection
• Allow for fast and easy panel engagement
• Offer greater tab strength and less breakage
• Extended lead-in allows for ease of installaton
• Created distictive shadow lines and shingle definition
• Perfection and Half-Round Shingles: 3/4" projection
• Rough-Split Shakes: 1" projection
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Polymer Shake and Shingle Siding Styles
Triple 5" Straight
Edge Perfection Shingles
Double 7" Straight
Edge Perfection Shingles
Double 7" Staggered
Perfection Shingles
Double 7" Straight
Edge Rough-Split Shakes
Double 9" Staggered
Rough-Split Shakes
Double 6-1/4"
Half-Round Shingles
Exclusive Positive Lock
• Self-supporting, friction lock
• No need to hold panel while nailing
• Lead-in guide ensures engagement
• Allows for band board shrinkage
Center Pin Hole
Allows for even expansion
and contraction of the panel.
Reinforced Ribs on Nail Slots
and Lock Tabs
• Provide improved lock strength
and holding power
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Traditional Vinyl Siding Terms
Profile
The contour or outline of a siding panel as viewed from the side.
Nail flange
Flat area along top of panel with slots for nailing; slots
allow for expansion and contraction.
Lock
Molded area just under nailing flange into which butt
leg/locking leg of next panel above is secured.
Exposure
The width of the exposed face of each panel of siding;
also referred to as reveal.
3"
5"
7"
3"
3"
5"
Texture
Visual and tactile characteristics of the siding panel;
designed to recreate the authentic look of natural wood
grain, stucco, smooth painted clapboard, etc.
Panel Thickness
An important element of siding quality. Thicker panels are
more durable, stand up to impacts and high winds, and
look straighter on the wall.
Butt leg/locking leg
The bottom part of a siding profile that connects or locks
into the panel below.
Panel projection
Common to products with multiple faces (i.e. Double 4 or Triple 3).
It is the dimension required for the proper selection of receiving
channels (e.g., J-channels and corner pieces).
7/16"
3/4"
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Vinyl Siding Styles
Single 8"
Clapboard
Double 4"
Clapboard
Double 4-1/2" Double 5"
Triple 3"
Clapboard
Clapboard
Clapboard
f
f
D
D
D
f
D
Double 4"
Dutchlap
Double 4-1/2"
Dutchlap
Double 5"
Dutchlap
Single 6-1/2"
Beaded
i
f
D
f
D
f
f
D
D
Single 7" Straight
Edge Rough-Split
Shakes
Single 9" Staggered
Rough-Split Shakes
Single 8" Vertical
Board & Batten
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Insulated Siding Styles
Single 7"
Clapboard
Double 4"
Clapboard
Double 6"
Clapboard
i
i
f
i
D
f
f
D
D
Double 4.5"
Dutchlap
n
i
f
D
Single 12" Vertical
Board and Batten
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
SECTION 3 — Vinyl Soffit and Ventilation
Features of Vinyl Soffit
Profile
The contour or outline of a soffit panel as viewed from the side.
Texture
Visual and tactile characteristics of
the soffit panel; designed to recreate
the authentic look of natural wood
grain, stucco, smooth, etc.
Nailing Flange
Flat area along top of panel with
slots for nailing; slots allow for
expansion and contraction.
Lock
Molded area just under nailing
flange into which butt leg/locking leg
of adjacent panel is secured.
of soffit quality. Thicker
Panel Thickness
An important element
Butt Leg / Locking Leg
Molded area at bottom of
panel that is snapped into lock
on adjacent panel for secure
connection.
panels are more
durable and are less
prone to sagging.
Panel Projection
Common to products with
multiple faces (i.e. Triple 3). It is
the dimension required for the
proper selection of receiving
channels (e.g., J-channels and
corner pieces).
Exposure
The width of the exposed
face of each panel of soffit;
also referred to as reveal.
Solid Soffit
Center Vented Soffit
Fully Vented Soffit
Invisibly Vented Soffit
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
SECTION 4 — Accessories and Tools
Corner Systems
Outside cornerposts
3/4" Outside cornerpost—woodgrain and matte.
Use with all sidings except Cedar Impressions D9 Rough-Split
Shakes, Northwoods S9 Rough-Split Shakes and CedarBoards.
1" Outside cornerpost—woodgrain.
Use with Cedar Impressions D9 Rough-Split Shakes and
Northwoods Shakes.
1-1/4" Outside cornerpost with foam insert—woodgrain.
Use with Cedar Impressions Rough-Split Shakes,
Northwoods Shakes and CedarBoards.
Inside cornerposts
3/4" Inside cornerpost—matte.
Use where siding meets at inside corners; provides a finished look.
1-1/4" Inside cornerpost—matte.
Use with Cedar Impressions Rough-Split Shakes,
Northwoods Shakes and CedarBoards.
Fluted SuperCorner—matte
3/4" Fluted corner design with foam backing.
Traditional SuperCorner™—matte
3/4" and 1-1/4" Wide decorative traditional corner treatment with
foam backing. The 1-1/4" is used with Cedar Impressions Rough-
Split Shakes, Northwoods Shakes, and CedarBoards.
Beaded SuperCorner™—matte
Wide decorative beaded corner treatment with foam backing.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Corner Systems (continued)
Mitered cornerposts
Outside and inside corner treatment for use with
Cedar Impressions.
Bay window cornerpost—matte
Adapts to odd angles of bay windows.
Quarter round insert—matte
Installed with a Corner Starter and lineals as a decorative
corner treatment.
5" Corner cap—matte
Used to create corner systems.
Cedar Impressions S7" bay window inside
and outside cornerposts
Use with Cedar Impressions D7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles
only to adapt to the odd angles of a bay window.
7"
7"
42.5°
47.5°
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Lineals
3-1/2" Snap-on lineal
Use with J-channel.
3-1/2" Lineal
5" Lineal
3-1/2" Lineal with foam insert
For use with a New Construction Window and Door Starter around
windows and doors as a casing. Two lineals can be used to create
a corner system when installed with a corner starter and corner
insert. The 3/4" channel receives siding panels. Lineals with foam
inserts are available for use with insulated siding.
3-1/2" Double channel lineal
5" Double channel lineal
For use with horizontal or vertical siding transitions. Exposure
matches 3-1/2" window and door surround lineals.
Decorative Trim
Corner block
Used with 3-1/2" lineals to finish corners around windows
and doors.
Rosette
Attaches to Corner Block as a decorative treatment.
Crown molding
Used in conjunction with 5" lineals to create a custom molded
window or door header. Can also be used with 3-1/2" lineals and
3/4" pocket J-channels. Crown has a 2-1/4" top exposed edge.
Crown molding cap
Caps the ends of a crown molding with minimal cutting.
NOTE: Shown already cut in half—one piece makes
a left and right-end cap.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Decorative Trim (continued)
Cornice molding
Finish board
Held in place by the F-channel or Cornice Molding Receiver, this
accessory hides the installation of the topmost siding panels.
With the help of a nail slot punch, topmost siding panels can be
installed with nails every time. Can also be used under windows.
Cornice molding receiver
Installed under eaves to hold the Cornice Molding or Finish Board
in place. Does not receive soffit panels.
Cornice molding cornerpost cap
Used to cap Cornice Molding over Mitered Cornerposts.
Band board
7-1/4" foam backed, decorative trim used with Cedar Impressions
Rough-Split Shakes, Northwoods Rough Split Shake, and
CedarBoards.
2-1/2" Window and door casing
A 2-1/2" wide-face J-channel that accentuates windows and
doors. Designed to accommodate new construction window
flanges and fit snugly against window and door frames.
This accessory is also ideal for gable trim applications.
J-Channels
J-Channel
3/8" J-channel
1/2" J-channel
3/4" J-channel
1" J-channel
1-1/4" J-channel
Universal siding and soffit receiving channel for use around
utility openings, under eaves, etc.
3/4" Flexible J-Channel
Specialized 3/4" siding receiving trim; particularly useful
around curved windows and ventilation treatments.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Functional Trim
Aluminum trim coil
24"-wide PVC-coated aluminum.
Dual undersill trim
Secures trimmed siding panels under windows and eaves
regardless of the profile or where in the panel face the panel
has been trimmed.
Undersill trim
Cedar Impressions undersill trim
Helps secure trimmed siding panels under windows and eaves.
Drip cap
Acts as a flash over windows and doors.
Vinyl fascia
Installed with F-channel and undersill trim to provide a virtually
maintenance-free fascia board.
Starter Strips
2-1/4" Vinyl starter strip
Secures the first course of siding to the home.
®
®
For use with all sidings except Monogram 46, Monogram 46L,
®
Monogram 46XL, CedarBoards, CedarBoards XL, and
®
Cedar Impressions .
2-1/2" Metal starter strip
For use with all sidings except CedarBoards and
Cedar Impressions.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Starter Strips (continued)
5" Metal starter strip
Designed to be used on remodeling jobs to help level the first
course and span areas that cannot be nailed. For use with all
sidings except CedarBoards and Cedar Impressions.
4" Metal shingle starter strip
4" metal starter to be used with Cedar Impressions.
Starter strip for Insulated Siding
Vinyl starter strip that accommodates 1-1/4" thickness
of insulated siding.
New construction window and door starter
Butts up against protruding window and door jambs and
overhangs for installation of 3-1/2" and 5" lineals.
Remodeling window and door starter
Holds 3-1/2" and 5" lineals in place around window and door
openings. Used in re-siding applications where existing casings
have not been removed.
Corner starter strip
Secures 3-1/2" and 5" lineals and quarter round insert
to create a 4-piece corner.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Soffit Trim
Soffit cove trim
A decorative soffit receiver featuring a 9/16" receiving pocket.
This profile can also be used as an inside cornerpost. Will not
work for all profiles.
5/8" and 3/4" F-Channel
Receives soffit panels.
Deluxe F-Channel
Receives soffit panels and cornice molding or finish board.
3/8" H-Bar
1/2" H-Bar
3/4" H-Bar
Joins soffit panels. Particularly useful on porch ceilings and
hip roof applications.
20
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Equipment and Tools
Fasteners
Use only corrosion-resistant nails (aluminum, stainless or
galvanized roofing.) Nails should have a minimum head diameter of
5/16". CertainTeed recommends the use of stainless steel nails or
other corrosion-resistant fasteners, when installing siding in coastal
areas. Be sure to check with your local code official or governing
body for the building requirements in your area. Staples should be
a minimum of 16 gauge.
If screws are used, use non-corrosive, self-tapping, pan head or
washer head screws or oval head with countersunk washer screws
with at least 5/16" diameter head, 1/8" (3mm) diameter shaft, and
at least 1-1/8" (29mm) long.
To determine the length of nail required, measure the thickness of
the sheathing material. Then add at least 3/4" to allow the nail to
penetrate the solid wood substrate (studs or existing wood siding).
For more secure fastening, add 1" to sheathing thickness. The
minimum nail size should be 1-1/2".
Example: If you’re applying siding over 1/2" sheathing, use a nail
at least 1-1/2" long (1/2" sheathing + 3/4" stud penetration +
nailing hem thickness + minimum 1/16" between nailing hem
and fastener head).
To determine the quantity of nails required, complete the following:
Total square feet of siding required:
(If using aluminum nails)
(If using galvanized roofing nails)
x
x
.005
.01
Pounds of nails required:
=
For nailing instructions, see page 33 to 34.
Tools required
Hammer
Chalk line
Tin snips
Level
Tape measure
Utility knife
Square
Shears
Power circular saw with sharp, fine-tooth plywood blade mounted
®
in reverse direction. (Irwin Tools Vinyl siding blade is not
reversed—tooth design is symmetric 60º.)
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Ladders and Scaffolds
NOTE: If you will be using an extension ladder during
installation, be sure to cushion the upper side rails to help
prevent damage to installed siding.
Cutting table
Portable brake
Essential for bending aluminum trim coil to fit around fascia boards,
window sills, window and door casings, etc.
Please refer to the brake manufacturer’s instructions for metal
bending techniques.
Transporting and Storing Vinyl Siding
and Polymer Shakes
CertainTeed’s standard shipment method incorporates palletizing
and stretch wrapping all products.
®
• The pallet is a double-faced, reversible, Grade M, SPEQ -
certified pallet constructed of quality materials that meet
NWPCA Uniform Voluntary Standards (Sec. 5.1, Table 1).
• Customer racking should be at least 46" deep x 157" long
to accommodate CertainTeed pallets.
• Do not store pallets by more than three units high.
• Vinyl and polymer siding should be stored indoors and away
from direct sources of heat and sunlight. Storing products
outside may result in damage.
• Cedar Impressions polymer shakes must be stored vertically.
If you are transporting vinyl siding to a job site, make certain to
keep cartons flat and supported along their entire length.
At the job site, take the following precautions when storing panels:
• Store on a flat surface and support the entire length of
the carton.
• Keep cartons dry.
• Store away from areas where falling objects or other
construction activity may cause damage.
• Do not store in any location where temperatures may exceed
130° F (e.g., on black top pavement during unusually hot
weather, under dark tarps or plastic wraps without air
circulation, or in unventilated storage trailers).
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Cut off and
discard
Special Tools
Nail slot punch (CertainTeed Item # 57997)
Punches elongated holes to allow nailing the cut edge of a panel.
Also used to enlarge an existing hole to allow proper nailing.
Cut off and
discard
Snaplock punch (CertainTeed Item # 57995 or 57996)
Punches tabs in the cut edge of a panel used as a finishing
course at the top of a wall or underneath a window. The tabs
lock into undersill trim. For best results, we recommend using
item 57995 Snaplock Punch, which is designed specifically
for vinyl applications.
Trim nail punch
Punches trim nail holes into soffit, fascia, and other finishing trim
without denting or marring the material. Available from Malco
Products, Granger, ProSidingTools.com
Zip tool (CertainTeed Item # 57998 or 57999)
Locks and unlocks panels.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Section 5 — Estimating
Siding
Use the illustrations and formulas below and enter totals on
the estimating form on page 27. These formulas apply for both
horizontal and vertical installations.
NOTE: When estimating for a large project, you may want to
add a waste allowance of 10 percent to the totals for siding,
soffit and accessories.
Rectangular wall surfaces
Measure height (excluding gables). Measure width
(including doors and windows).
_____________ x _____________ = _____________
(height)
(width)
(surface area)
Repeat for remaining walls.
Triangular gable end surfaces
Measure height at center (add 1' to allow for waste).
Measure width and divide by half.
_____________ x _____________ = _____________
(height)
(1/2 width)
(surface area)
Repeat for remaining gables.
NOTE: Lower pitch roofs will produce more waste
than higher pitch roofs.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Upper wall of gambrel house
Divide the upper wall of a gambrel house as shown in the
illustration. Then use the following formulas:
1/2 (B + C) x H =
1/2 C x D =
____________
____________
____________
Add these figures to get total area:
Repeat for remaining gambrel surfaces.
Dormer sides
Measure height of dormer (add 1' to allow for waste).
Use the following formula:
_____________ x _____________ = ____________________
(1/2 height)
(1/2 width)
(surface area, 1 side)
____________________ x 2 = _________________________
(surface area, 1 side)
(total dormer surface area)
Repeat for all dormers.
Soffit
Measure width of eave to be covered. Measure length of eave.
_____________ x _____________ = _____________
(width)
(length)
(surface area)
Repeat for remaining eaves.
Porch Ceiling
Measure length of porch area to be covered. Measure width
of porch.
_____________ x _____________ = _____________
(length)
(width)
(surface area)
25
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Measuring
Before ordering accessories, you also have to determine the width
of the J-channel into which you will fit the vinyl siding. To do this,
you must first determine which of two methods you will use to
apply sheathings or underlayments. This is covered in more detail
under “Sheathings.”
NOTE: Refer to product catalog for product accessory
recommendations and availability.
Starter strip: Measure along base of building.
J-channel: For siding installations, measure around doors
and windows, under eaves, at rake edges of gables where
dormer meets roofline, and anywhere else required to provide
a finished appearance.
For soffit, measure along wall under eave and along fascia board.
For porch ceilings, measure along perimeter of the porch area.
F-channel: For soffit, measure along wall under eve.
For porch ceilings, measure along perimeter
of the porch area.
3-1/2" and 5" Lineals: For casing, measure along perimeter of
doors and windows. For gables, measure at rake edges of gables
where dormer meets roof line.
Undersill trim: Measure above and below windows and above
doors and top course of siding below soffit.
Soffit H-bar: Measure diagonals at all eave corners.
Outside cornerpost: Measure length of outside corners.
Inside cornerpost: Measure length of inside corners.
NOTE: If you plan to use J-channel instead of inside corner-
posts, remember to double this measurement and add the
total to your entry for J-channel.
Dual undersill trim: Measure along top of wall where siding
will meet eaves.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Estimating Form
Siding
Walls
sq feet
sq feet
sq feet
sq feet
sq feet (A)
Gable ends
Dormer sides
Upper gambrel walls
Total wall surface area
Large areas not to be covered:
(garage doors/sliding glass doors)
sq feet
x .50
Uncovered area
sq feet (B)
Subtract B from A for
Total net surface area
sq feet
Soffit
Porch ceiling
Accessories
sq feet
sq feet
Starter strip
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
Window & door lineal starter
Four piece corner starter
Utility trim
Receiving channel
J-channel
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
2-1/2" window & door casing
Flexible J-channel
F-channel: 5/8" or 3/4"
Deluxe F-channel
3-1/2" or 5" lineals
New construction window starter
Dual undersill trim
Outside corner
Inside corners
Outside cornerpost
Fluted SuperCorner
Traditional SuperCorner
Beaded SuperCorner
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
lineal feet
Cedar Impressions/
CedarBoards cornerpost
lineal feet
lineal feet
Four piece corner system
Inside cornerpost
J-channel
lineal feet
lineal feet
Soffit cove trim
H-Bar
lineal feet
lineal feet
pairs
Corner Blocks
Rosettes
pairs
Cornice molding receiver
Cornice molding
lineal feet
lineal feet
Width of accessory recess opening: (circle one) 1/2" 3/4" 1-1/4"
Pounds required (1-1/2" minimum)
Nails
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
SECTION 6 — Preparing for Horizontal Siding
Preparing Wall Surfaces
Sheathings
In new construction, apply sheathing first, then nail accessories
over it.
The application method you choose determines the width of the
recess opening required. For example, use:
• 1/2" opening when applying accessories over sheathing and
installing siding with a panel projection of 1/2" or less.
• 3/4" opening when applying accessories over sheathing and
installing siding with a panel projection of 3/4" or less.
• 1-1/4" opening when applying accessories first and using
sheathing that’s less than 3/4" thick for sidings with a panel
projection of 1/2" or less. For sidings with a panel projection of
5/8" or 3/4", use a sheathing that is 1/2" thick or less.
New construction
Make sure all studs are straight and true. Correct any
bowed studs.
NOTE: Vinyl siding must be applied over a rigid sheathing that
provides a smooth, flat surface or an underlayment (such as
wood, wood composition, rigid foam or fiber sheathing) that is
no more than 1" thick. Vinyl siding cannot be applied directly
to studs. See the instructions on page 29 for installation over
continuous insulation systems thicker than 1".
If you’re planning to use a conventional house wrap or building
felt, apply according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
In all cases, however, install the products so they are secured
firmly to the substrate so that they provide a smooth, even
surface for the final siding installation. Make sure sheathing is
fastened securely to studs.
Vinyl siding is an exterior cladding; it is not a complete weather
resistant barrier. Before applying siding, make certain the substrate
is watertight. In order to be protected from precipitation, the
substrate may need to be properly flashed around areas such as
windows, doors, other openings and corners so as to shed water
to the exterior. See page 45 for proper flashing around windows.
The siding alone is not meant to be a watertight barrier.
Vinyl siding cannot be installed on a radius wall.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Continuous foam insulation systems (SIPs)
Continuous foam insulation systems (e.g. rigid insulation,
structural insulation products) thicker than 1" create a condition
where CertainTeed vinyl siding and polymer shakes cannot be
properly attached to the existing framing members, steel studs,
or structural sheathing.
The easiest way to meet the fastening requirements for
CertainTeed siding is to install 3/4" structural sheathing (such as
OSB or plywood) over the continuous foam insulation. However,
the wall assembly must be designed in such a way that the
structural fastening surface that is re-established on the exterior
of the insulating products is sufficient to meet the requirements
of ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for vinyl siding or ICC-ES
Evaluation Report ESR-3085 for polymer shakes.
CertainTeed does not provide instructions for wall design or
assembly that specifically relates to the fastening requirements
for re-establishing a structural fastening surface for CertainTeed
®
vinyl and polymer siding. However, FastenMaster provides
two documents to assist in successfully re-establishing a
structural fastening system on the exterior of a continuous foam
insulation system:
• Technical Evaluation Report (TER No. 1009-01): Use of
™
FastenMaster HeadLok Fasteners to Attach Cladding and/or
Furring to Wood Framing through Foam Sheathing
• Technical Bulletin: Attaching Exterior Wall Covering Assemblies
with Foam Sheathing to Steel Wall Framing
The Fasten Master reports must be used in combination with
ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for vinyl siding or ICC-ES
Evaluation Report ESR-3085 for polymer shakes to determine
attachment requirements. In addition, all the installation methods
included in this manual must be met.
Fastening CertaWrap™ Weather
Resistant Barrier
8"
16"
32"
To secure the Weather-Resistant Barrier, use the
appropriate recommended fasteners and fastening
schedule for your application.
32"
8"
Wood-based sheathing
When attaching CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier on wood-
base sheathing, such as 7/16" OSB or 15/32" plywood, apply
plastic-capped staples or plastic-capped nails every 32" vertically
and horizontally.
Open-stud construction or non-structural sheathing
When attaching CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier on open
studs or non-structural sheathing, apply plastic-capped staples or
plastic-capped nails long enough to penetrate the stud a minimum
of 5/8" every 32" vertically and horizontally.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Steel framing
When installing CertaWrap Weather-Resistant Barrier over steel
framing, use screws with minimum 1" diameter washers every
32" vertically and horizontally.
STUDfinder™ installation instructions
1. The STUDfinder Installation System combines precisely
engineered fastening locations with graphics that help ensure
quick, accurate, and secure installation. Install CertaWrap
horizontally to exterior walls prior to the application of exterior
cladding. Vertically position the CertaWrap roll at the corner of
the structure with the printed side out.
12"
(min.)
flap
2. Locate the first stud and verify that it is plumb. Align the first
stud with the nearest vertical STUDfinder line, allowing for a
minimum 12" flap to wrap the corner for attachment to the
adjoining wall. Extend the bottom edge of the CertaWrap
2"–4" over the sill plate. Apply plastic-capped staples or
plastic-capped nails every 32" vertically along the first stud
to secure the Weather-Resistant Barrier into position.
3. Unroll the CertaWrap along the exterior wall. Wrap CertaWrap
completely around the building, covering window and door
openings, plates, sills and corners.
4. To secure the Weather-Resistant Barrier, use the fasteners
and fastening schedule that is appropriate for your application.
The STUDfinder marks will quickly guide you to your desired
fastening location without the need for chalk lines. Each letter
is spaced 1.6" apart, and each series spans 16". To achieve
32" spacing between fasteners, first locate the letter that the
first row of fasteners covers. The second repeat of that letter
is at 32".
5. Pull the CertaWrap snug and fasten it to the studs or sheathing
and to the top and bottom plates.
6. When starting a new roll in the middle of a wall, overlap vertical
and horizontal laps in the field a minimum of 6". When starting
a new roll at an inside or outside corner, overlap vertical and
horizontal seams a minimum of 12". All vertical and horizontal
seams are to be installed in a weatherboard fashion. Lap
CertaWrap over all existing flashings (e.g. z-flashing, roof-to-
wall flashing, drip cap).
7. Flash or tape all vertical and horizontal seams and penetrations.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Drop-in foam backer boards
Some drop-in foam backers can restrict the movement of vinyl
siding. Therefore, CertainTeed vinyl siding may not be applied
over any drop-in foam backer other than a contoured drop-in
foam backer designed specifically for each profile.
IMPORTANT: CertainTeed will not accept any responsibility
or liability in the event the drop-in foam backer restricts the
movement of the vinyl. The use, fit, and performance of the
siding backer board is the responsibility of the installer and the
backer board manufacturer.
NOTE: Contoured drop-in foam backer boards are not a
substitute for rigid foam sheathing.
Home improvement projects
You can prepare your current siding surface to receive vinyl siding
in one of three ways:
Strip off old siding and level the wall. If felt paper covers the wall,
you have two alternatives: either strip it off completely or staple
or nail it to create a smooth surface. If there is no solid sheathing
under the old siding, you must apply it as described in the
instructions for New Construction.
Apply rigid sheathing to existing siding to provide a smooth
surface. Nail securely to old siding. Nail evenly to bridge low spots.
NOTE: Failure to establish a smooth, solid surface constitutes
misapplication under the terms of the warranty.
Apply vertical furring to old siding to straighten noticeable surface
unevenness. (See “Tips for applying wood furring.”) Then apply
rigid sheathing, following the instructions presented under New
Construction.
NOTE: For information on installing siding over asbestos and
for historic applications, see page 142.
Tips for applying wood furring
If you are working on an older home with noticeably uneven walls,
you must correct this condition before proceeding. If not corrected
during preparation, this uneven surface will produce a wavy
appearance in siding applied over it.
For best results, space horizontal furring strips 12" on center.
Do not exceed 16". To correct an uneven wall, use furring strips
(and wood shims if necessary) to eliminate low spots.
NOTE: You must apply rigid sheathing over furring.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
When covering over masonry or bricks, it’s better to use 1" x 3"
furring. For best thermal performance, install a minimum
of 1/4" foam over furring strips.
undersill trim
sill
J-channel
siding
Furring strip/foam shim
Furring and/or foam is also used below eaves and windowsills to
maintain correct slope angles when siding panels must be cut to
a narrower dimension to fit.
Similarly, when panels are cut to fit over doors or windows, furring
and/or foam is used to establish the correct slope angle.
siding
furring strip/foam shim
J-channel
sill
Applying over stucco or masonry
16"
1" x 3" furring
When applying vinyl siding over stucco or masonry, you first
have to be sure you’re working on an even surface. To create
that surface, you may have to knock down high spots where
furring strips will be applied. Use caution when chipping off these
spots—you don’t want to crack or damage the remaining stucco
or masonry.
foam
sheathing
Apply 1" x 3" furring over the stucco or masonry using power-
actuated fasteners or other appropriate masonry fasteners.
Stucco will not hold fasteners tightly, so be sure nails or screws
are anchored securely to studs. Furring strips should be spaced
16" on center.
masonry
fastener for
attaching
furring
Applying rigid foam sheathing to furring
Install sheathing according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Do not apply siding directly to furring strips. For best thermal
performance, install a minimum of 1/4" foam over furring strips.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Applying over steel studs
Pre-planning is the key when installing vinyl siding and accessories
over steel studs. Pre-planning includes the selection of siding style
and the types of accessories. Pre-planning proper stud placement
will eliminate many of the problems that could surface once the
job has been started, such as at corners, windows, and
transitional areas.
center nail in slots
sheathing
or substrate
Follow the same guidelines as in a wood surface—except for the
type of fasteners used. Wall sheathing must be installed over the
studs. This will provide a straighter, smoother and more rigid wall
surface and help prevent studs from twisting. Siding must be
secured into metal studs if the substrate is not a nailable surface
such as exterior dry wall, gypsum board, etc.
The application of vinyl siding, soffits and accessories over steel
stud framing rather than typical wood framing is straightforward.
The main difference is the use of screws to hang components
that make up a completed siding job.
Use noncorrosive, self-tapping screws with at least 5/16" diameter
head, 1/8" diameter shaft, and at least 1-1/8" long.
Although the fastening method for steel studs differs from wood
construction, all other procedures still apply, including fastening in
the center of the nail slot and not overtightening the fasteners.
Nailing, Stapling and Other
Fastening Methods
If you want to ensure a quality vinyl siding installation, focus your
attention on nailing techniques. Unfortunately, a lot of installers
don’t. They feel nailing is a routine task, something everyone
knows how to do. But that’s not the case. At CertainTeed, we
analyzed reported installation problems, and we found that
more than half of them can be traced back to improper
nailing. So if you want to save yourself lost time and frustration,
carefully observe the following guidelines when installing
accessories, siding panels, soffit, or porch ceilings.
center nail in slots
upper edge
of topmost
nailing slot
Lock the panel and begin nailing at the center of the panel,
working toward the ends. This helps maintain a level line.
With horizontal accessories and panels, position the nails in the
center of the elongated nailing slots to allow for expansion and
contraction. Never nail through the panel surface.
With vertical accessories and panels, position the first nail at the
upper edge of the topmost nailing slot. This allows a panel to
hang from the nail. Position the remaining nails in the center
of the nailing slots. Allow for 1/3 of the total expansion at the top
and 2/3 of the total expansion at the bottom.
Note: See pages 35-36 for general
fastening guidelines
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Up to 1/8"
NOTE: Do not nail too tightly. To permit expansion and
contraction, panels should hang freely from nails. This allows
the panels to move as the temperature changes. Drive the
nails until there is between 1/8" to 1/16" of space between
the nail head and the nailing flange.
Drive the nails straight in. Do not angle nails.
Per the ASTM specification for vinyl siding installation (D4756),
proper nail penetration is at least 3/4". In most cases, that
requires anchoring to studs.
Too Loose
Too Tight
Correct
Fastener spacing
Fasteners are typically spaced a maximum of 16" apart. In new
construction, fasten to studs on 16" centers. Do not skip studs.
Some vinyl siding may be used in 24" on center construction in
areas without special wind-load requirements (fasteners spaced a
maximum of 24" apart). Check with your local building code official
for special requirements and ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066
for specific wind-load requirements.
Other fastening techniques:
Manual nailing is the most common way of fastening vinyl
siding to a wall. That’s because it offers greater control, making
it easier to learn how to fasten panels securely, but not tightly.
You also can use power screwdrivers or pneumatic staplers/
nailers to attach vinyl siding to a wall, but you must take the time
to develop the proper skills. If you choose to use one of these
alternate techniques, follow all the recommendations above for nail
positioning and spacing and the recommendations for substrate
preparation on pages 28 to 32 for horizontal applications and
page 80 for vertical, including Board & Batten. In addition, be sure
to observe the following guidelines:
Center staples in slots
Power screwdrivers
Use noncorrosive, self-tapping truss head screws. Screws must
have at least 5/16" diameter head and 1/8" diameter shaft. Screws
must be at least 1-1/8" long. If underlayment is less than 3/4"
thick and is not considered a nailable surface (for example, foam
or exterior grade gypsum), be sure screws are long enough to
penetrate at least 3/4" into wood studs or substrate, 1/8" through
a steel stud. Be sure screws are centered in the nail slot. Leave
1/16" to 1/8" space between the screw head and the panel
nailing flange.
Pneumatic staplers/nailers
Use corrosion-resistant fasteners only. Fasteners must be centered
in the nail slot, no more than 16" on center.
NOTE: Some power staplers/nailers use an attachment that
helps position the fastener in the nail slot. If your unit does
not have that feature, you must carefully position the fastener
by sight.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Fasteners must penetrate a nailable surface at least 3/4".
Be sure to leave up to 1/16" between the fastener and the
panel nailing flange. If you’re using a power stapler, drive the
staple perpendicular to the nailing slot with one leg of the staple
centered in the slot and the other leg above the panel.
NOTE: Check with local building codes to verify fastener
requirements for your area.
Nail Spacing and Product Expansion
and Contraction
It’s normal for vinyl building products to expand and contract with
temperature changes. To ensure a successful siding installation,
you must allow for this movement during application.
See the following charts for more information.
1/4" to 3/8"
Product
Category
Max. Nail
Spacing
Gaps to Accessories
Less
Overlap
Less
than
40° F
40°F
than
40° F
or Greater
40° F
or Greater
Horizontal Lap
Siding (12' 6")
16"–24"*
16"–24"*
1/4"
3/8"
3/8"
1/2"
1-1/4"
1-1/2"
1"
Horizontal Lap
Siding (16')
1-1/4"
Horizontal Lap
Siding (20')
16"–24"*
16"–24"*
3/8"
3/8"
1/2"
1/2"
1-1/2"
1-1/2"
1-1/4"
1-1/4"
Horizontal Lap
Siding (25')
*Depends on profile, fastener and geographic area.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
1/4" to 3/16"
Product
Category
Max. Nail
Spacing
Gaps to Accessories
Less
top most
nail at the
top of the
top most
full nail slot
40°F
than
or Greater
40° F
3/16" top
1/4" top
Vertical Siding
12"
3/8" bottom
1/2" bottom
center
remaining
nails in
the slot
Hang off of top nail slot (see page 80 for more details).
3/8" to 1/2"
Product
Category
Max. Nail
Spacing
Notes Specific
to Product
Gaps to Accessories
Overlap
Less
than
40° F
Less
than
40° F
40°F
or Greater
40°F
or Greater
All panels must
be center pinned
(see page 95 for
more details)
Fasten
at Delta
Indicators
Use Temp.
Marks/
Gauge
Use Temp.
Marks/
Gauge
Cedar Impressions
Northwoods
1/4"
1/4"
3/8"
3/8"
All panels must
Use Temp. be center pinned
Use Temp.
Marks
16"
Marks
(see page 125 for
more details)
1-1/2"
Butt
Foam
1-1/2"
Butt Foam
CedarBoards
16"
16"
1/4"
3/8"
3/8"
1/2"
1-1/2"
Butt
Foam
1-1/4" to
1-3/4"
CedarBoards XL
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Installing Accessories
Snapping a chalk line
sheathing
To ensure proper installation, you must establish a straight
reference line to guide the positioning of the starter strip and the
first course of siding.
housewrap
If the house is reasonably level, find the lowest point of the old
siding (or sheathing if working on new construction). Partially drive
a nail at one corner, starter height minus 1/4" above the lowest
corner. Attach chalk line. Go to other corner and pull the chalk line
taut. Stretch the chalk line from this nail to the opposite corner
of the house. Make sure the line is level, using a line level or 4'
(minimum) level. Snap chalk line and repeat the procedure around
the entire house.
starter
strip
metal
flashing
A water level, a long clear plastic tube 90% filled with water, is
useful in marking level points around the house and on opposite
sides of openings such as doors. Water will always seek a level
state, ensuring the markings will always be at the same level.
foundation
NOTE: If after establishing a chalk line you find that your
starter strip will be positioned below an easily nailed surface,
you may have to apply a nailable base.
If you have added sheathing, you may want to bend trim coil to
act as flashing and help prevent entry of insects. Bend the coil in
a “Z” shape so the top edge of the coil is on the chalk line and the
bottom edge extends down over the foundation. (See illustration.)
NOTE: The general guidelines for cutting and nailing vinyl
panels and for allowing for expansion and contraction also
apply to vinyl accessory items.
Installing the starter strip
6-1/2"
for wide
corners
& lineals
Position the starter strip with the top edge on the chalk line and
the ends 6-1/2" away from the outside and inside corners
(when using lineal systems or wide corners), 4" if using standard
one-piece corners. Nail to wall following previously mentioned
nailing instructions. When hollows occur in the wall surface,
shim out the starter strip to avoid a wavy appearance in the
finished siding job. Nail every 8" to 10".
4" for
standard
corners
As you add starter strip sections, be sure to leave 1/4" space
between them for expansion.
8" to 10"
Sometimes—especially at sills above garage doors, porches or
brick surfaces where the siding has been cut lengthwise —you
may find it easier to use a combination of utility trim and J-channel
as a starter strip to secure a panel.
If you are concerned that the house is not level, measure down
from the soffit at one corner of the house to the top of the
foundation and subtract the width of the starter strip minus 1/4".
Mark the wall, then transfer the measurement to the other corner
of the wall. Snap a chalk line in between the corners at the marks.
37
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
1/4"
Outside Cornerposts
Flash the corners of the home by bending a 20"-wide piece of
aluminum trim coil 90° so you have two 10" legs. Cover the entire
length of the corner, lapping the upper pieces over the lower
pieces. (Self-adhering flashing may be substituted for trim coil.
Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions and observe local
building code requirements.)
Top of topmost
nail, center
remaining nails
flashing
For cornerposts 12' long or less
Position the outside cornerpost so that the top of the post is
1/4" from the underside of the eave. Extend the bottom of the
cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip.
nail every 8" to 10"
Before nailing, make sure the post is straight and true. Hang the
cornerpost by first positioning a nail at the top of the topmost
nail slot. Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a
maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail
head and the cornerpost to allow the cornerpost to move during
normal expansion and contraction. (DO NOT NAIL TIGHT.) Follow
this nailing pattern on both nail flanges of each post.
3/4"
NOTE: CedarBoards corners install similar to standard
outside cornerposts.
3/8"
For cornerposts longer than 12' long
Position the outside cornerpost so that the top of the post is
3/8" from the underside of the eave. Extend the bottom of the
cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip.
Top of two top
nail slots, center
remaining nails
Before nailing, make sure the post is straight and true. Hang the
cornerpost by first positioning a nail at the top of the two top nail
slots slot. Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a
maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail
head and the cornerpost to allow the cornerpost to move during
normal expansion and contraction. (DO NOT NAIL TIGHT.) Follow
this nailing pattern on both nail flanges of each post.
flashing
NOTE: When installing any hanging cornerpost longer than
12', position the fasteners at the top of the top two nail
slots on each side of the corner.
3/4"
Transitioning from masonry to stucco
Position the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4" below the starter strip.
If the corner is less than 12', leave 3/8" from masonry/flashing to
allow for expansion. If the corner is greater than 12', leave 5/8"
from masonry/flashing for expansion.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
NOTE: If the transition material allows, the bottom 3/4" of the
channels may be removed from the outside cornerpost so
that the face of the corner may be positioned lower and more
in line with the bottom of the siding. This method creates
a transition with more pleasing aesthetics. The outside
cornerpost face must still maintain 3/8" or 5/8" clearance
from obstructions.
If posts must be spliced for high walls, you have two options:
Option 1
Cut 1" off the nailing flanges and back so just the face of the
outside cornerpost remains. Then lap 3/4" of the upper post
over the lower post, allowing 1/4" gap for expansion. This
method will provide an obvious joint between the two posts,
but will allow water to flow over the joint, reducing the chance
of water infiltration.
1/4"
When the bottom edge of a cornerpost terminates into a porch,
deck, brick, stone ledge, or roof line, etc., allow 3/8" for every
10' of corner when the ambient temperature is above 40°F;
1/2" for every 10' of corner when the ambient temperature is
40°F or below.
1"
NOTE: It is acceptable to reverse lap outside corners as long
as the corners are properly flashed and water can drain from
the bottom of the cornerpost.
Option 2
Cut a 6" length of cornerpost and trim the nail flange, receiving
channel, and sides until you have just a 90° bend of vinyl. Using
PVC primer and PVC cement, glue the bent piece to the inside
of the upper post and lower post. Butt the two posts together.
Nail the entire assembly as one post with all nails in the lower
post centered in the nail slots.
1 pc. outside
corner piece
flashing behind
finished corner
assembly
Also see additional instructions covering installation of four-piece
cornerposts (page 40).
butted splice joint
cornerpost
splice
backer
splice backer (hidden)
PVC adhesive
on backside of
cornerposts
PVC primer
and PVC
cement must
be used
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Capping an outside cornerpost
One method of capping an outside cornerpost is to cut a piece
of J-channel twice as long as the width of the corner-post face.
Mark a 90° angle from the center and cut out this area. Then cut
7/8" away from each end, except for the nailing flange. Bend the
J-channel in the center and nail it to the outside of the corner of
the house. Then insert the cornerpost into the J-channel.
Another alternative is to trim the nail flange, receiving channel, and
sides from the bottom 1" of the cornerpost. Notch 1" at the 90°
bend, fold the bottom 1" of the cornerpost face, and fasten these
“flaps” with a pop rivet.
7/8"
Extra Wide Corner Posts
(Four-Piece Corner System)
Extra-wide cornerposts give you a distinctive, easy-to-install
method of finishing outside corners. Each cornerpost consists
of four parts: corner starter, two lineals, and a quarter-round
snap-in insert.
Lineals are available in two board styles: 5" smooth and
3-1/2" smooth.
The installation procedure is identical for all lineals and inserts.
To install this four-part accessory, follow these steps:
Before you begin, make sure the corners are flashed properly.
Measure the vertical span, and allow 1/4" from the underside of
the eave if the post is 12' or shorter and 3/8" from the underside
if the post is longer than 12'. Extend the cornerpost 3/4" below
the bottom of the starter strip. Cut all four pieces using a power
circular saw.
long leg insert
Hang a starter strip. Position the starter strip, leaving 1/4"
allowance for expansion at the top and 3/8" at the bottom.
Position the first nail at the uppermost edge of top nail slot
(shown). Nail loosely. Working from the top down, position the
remaining nails every 8" to 10", with the nails centered in the slots.
Attach the side lineals. Lock the first lineal into the starter strip.
Nail it to the sheathing, following the procedure described above.
Repeat the process for the other lineal.
Snap in the quarter-round corner insert. Working from the bottom
up, begin by inserting the longer leg of the insert into the nail flange
side of the starter strip first; then snap in the shorter leg. Lightly
press along the length of the insert as you snap it into place.
NOTE: For a more secure installation, use a pop rivet to
attach the molding insert to a side lineal. The rivet should be
positioned at the top of the cornerpost.
40
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Inside Cornerposts
There are three options for trimming inside corners: Standard
3/4" inside cornerpost, single J-channel, and two J-channels.
1/4" to 3/8"
To flash the inside corner, bend a 20"-wide piece of aluminum
coil stock 90° so you have two 10" legs. Insert the flashing into
the corner. If you use more than one piece of flashing, overlap
the upper pieces of the flashing over the lower pieces.
hang from top
nail, center
remaining nails
To install inside cornerpost, hang the post from the top of the eave.
The bottom should extend 3/4" below the starter strip. Remove
the bottom 3/4" of the nailing flange so it does not show below
the siding. Set the post straight and true. Position the top nail in
the top of the nailing slot. All other nails should be in the center
of the nail slots
8" to 10"
corner flashing
(scrap aluminum coil, for example)
solid nailable
3/4"
substrate
standard 3/4"
single J-channel
inside corner post
inside cornerpost splice
two J-channels
If you have to splice the inside cornerpost, cut 1" off all but the
outer face of the lower post. Lap 3/4" of the upper post over the
lower post, leaving 1/4" for expansion.
If you are using two pieces of J-channel instead of inside
cornerpost, flash the corner with a 10" x 10" “L” corner fabricated
from aluminum coil stock or any weather-resistant barrier. Hang
the J-channel from the top of the eave. The bottom should extend
3/4” below the starter strip. Remove the bottom 3/4" of the nailing
flange so that it will not show below the siding. Use the same
positioning and nailing guidelines as inside cornerpost.
To create a narrower corner, you can also use a single length
of J-channel and flashing. First, install the siding on one wall.
Then place the J-channel lightly against the siding and nail it to
the substrate on the adjacent wall. Follow the same positioning
and nailing guidelines as inside cornerposts.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
“L” shaped
flashing
Federal Corners
To create a federal-style corner, flash the corner with aluminum trim
coil or other flashing materials. Hang a new construction starter
strip. Position the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other
nails should be centered in the slots spaced 8" to 10" apart.
Position and secure the 3-1/2" lineal.
Position and secure an aluminum starter strip.
Position and secure the 5" lineal.
NOTE: Aluminum starter can be used for both lineals. If the
aluminum starter used for the 5" lineal is not long enough,
fashion a starter using a metal brake and coil stock to a
length that allows for proper nailing into the substrate.
“L” shaped
flashing
Inside Federal Corners
Flash the corner with aluminum trim coil or other flashing materials.
Position and secure the 5" lineals (or a 3-1/2" lineal) by butting
the lineal up to the inside corner. Using a 5" lineal will create a
symmetric 3-1/2" exposure in the corner. If two 3-1/2" lineals
are used, one exposure will be approximately 2-1/4" and one
will be 3-1/2".
NOTE: Attaching the second lineal will keep the first lineal
in place. You will not need a starter strip. Always position
the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other nails
should be centered in the slots spaced 8" to 10" apart.
Position and secure the starter strip.
Position and secure the remaining lineal.
42
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Trimming Bay Window Corners
There are several ways to trim the odd angles of bay windows.
Here are two of them:
1. Install bay window cornerpost.
2. Install J-channel with a quarter-round insert.
Before you begin, make sure the corner is properly flashed.
for angles
less than 45°
Install bay window cornerpost
• Cut bay window cornerpost to the proper length.
• For angles less than 45°, push down on the face of the corner
until the nail flanges seat flat against the wall surfaces.
push down
• Hang the cornerpost by nailing loosely into the topmost nail slot.
• Make sure the cornerpost is straight and true.
until nail
flanges
seat flat
for angles 45°
and larger
• Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum
of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head
and the cornerpost to allow the cornerpost to move during
normal expansion and contraction.
• Fit the siding into the cornerpost.
Install J-Channel with quarter-round insert
• Cut two pieces of J-channel and one piece of quarter-round
insert to length.
• Pop rivet the J-channels to each side of the quarter-round insert
in at least three places.
pop rivets
• Nail the assembly to the corner, remembering to hang the
assembly from the topmost full nail slot.
• Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a maximum
of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head
and the J-channel for normal expansion and contraction.
remove
half of the
longer leg
• Fit the siding into the J-channels.
See page 109 for installing bay window corners with
Cedar Impressions Siding.
43
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Decorative Trim Options around
Windows and Doors
2-1/2" Window and door casing
System requires 2-1/2" window and door casing.
3-1/2" Snap-on lineal
System requires 1" face J-channel.
3-1/2" Lineal system
System requires 3-1/2" lineals and starter strips.
5" x 3-1/2" Lineal system
System requires 5" lineals, 3-1/2" lineals, and starter strips.
3-1/2" Lineal system with corner block
System requires 3-1/2" lineals, starter strips, and lineal
corner block.
3-1/2" Lineal system with corner block and rosette
System requires 3-1/2" lineals, starter strips, lineal corner block,
and rosette.
44
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Window Flashing
If installing a new window and flashing, refer to the window
manufacturer’s instructions and ASTM E2112, Standard Practice
for Installation of Exterior Walls, Doors, and Skylights for the
proper flashing installation method for the window type and wall
configuration of the project.
The width of all flashings is determined by the type of accessory
surrounding the window and where the final complete course of
siding stops below the window (in the case of the flashing under
the window). The flashing should extend past the nail flanges of
the accessory. The width of the flashing under the window must
allow for the diversion of water.
Installing CertaFlash BA around a rectangular window
1. Make diagonal cuts in the weather-resistant barrier at the upper
corners of the top (head) of the rough opening. Gently lift and
tape the flap temporarily in place.
2. Cut a piece of CertaFlash Flex flashing for the bottom (sill) that
is 12" longer than the width of the rough opening. Remove the
backer from the flashing and begin applying one end to the
jamb of the rough opening 6" above the sill. (NOTE: the tape
will extend over the exterior edge of the jamb.) Applying even
pressure to the tape with your hands, work your way down the
jamb, across the sill, and up the opposite jamb, finishing 6"
above the sill. Flex the overhanging tape down onto the wall,
covering the weather resistant barrier in weatherboards fashion,
again applying even pressure to ensure adhesion.
1
2
3. Before installing the window, apply a continuous bead of
sealant to the interior of the window’s mounting flange. Install
the window according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
3
4
4. Cut two strips of CertaFlash BA for the sides (jambs) of the
window. Jamb flashing tape should extend a minimum of 3"
above the top of the jambs of the window unit and a minimum
of 1" beyond the bottom flashing tape installed in step #2,
covering the width of the previously installed flashing at the
base. Slowly peel release paper off as you press the flashing
in place. Ensure the flashing covers all nails and mounting slots
on the window’s mounting flange.
5
5. Cut BA flashing for the top (head) of the opening so it will
extend beyond both ends of the jamb flashing Ensure the
flashing covers all nails and mounting slots on the window’s
mounting flange.
6
6. Finally, lay weather resistant barrier over the head flashing.
Apply CertaTape over both diagonal cuts.
45
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
rain tab
Installing Window and Door Trim
Install J-channel along the top and sides of door casings and
around windows.
NOTE: When installing J-channel around replacement
windows that do not have nail flanges, add flashing for
greater protection against water infiltration. For an example
of completed flashing, see the previous page.
1"
There are two methods of joining J-channels at corners. The
easiest method is to square cut the corners. For a more finished
appearance, you can miter the corners. To prevent gaps, do not
butt ends. Instead, lap them as shown.
To square cut corners
Install J-channels at the sides of the windows. Notch them
as shown.
NOTE: For best results, use aviation snips when cutting
J-channel.
1"
Cut the top and bottom J-channels so the ends extend beyond
the casing to the width of side J-channels.
rain
tab
1"
Place the top J-channel along the casing shoulder and nail it to
the wall.
Make two cuts in the bottom of the upper channel and bend it
down to overlap the side J-channel. Repeat for the other side.
This forms a water drain and allows the J-channel to receive
siding panel.
rain
tab
1"
Nail the bottom J-channel in place. Cut the channel as previously
described. Fold the rain tabs into the receiving pockets for a
tighter miter joint.
1" or
dimension
of J-channel
face)
To miter cut corners
For best results, make sure you cut all J-channels to the proper
length, leaving the proper allowance for the width of the face of
the J-channel.
Square cut the bottom J-channel so that its ends extend beyond
the window casing to the width of the face of the side J-channels.
Notch the ends for clearance. Position and nail the J-channel.
Measure the side J-channels, adding the width of both the top
and bottom J-channels. Miter cut (45° angle) the lower ends
of both side J-channels. Notch the channel to form a rain tab,
position it and nail.
1"
Mark the top J-channel so its ends extend beyond the casing to
the width of the side J-channels. Miter cut (45° angle) the ends.
Cut and bend rain tabs. Position and nail.
rain
tab
1"
NOTE: You can create blind miters on a J-channel using a
J-channel cutter.
46
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
3-1/2" Snap-on Lineal Application around
Windows and Doors
This application works only on 1"-faced J-channel .
The installation of J-channel for snap-on lineals is the same
procedure as installing lineal starter strip. Measure the openings
and cut the J-channel 1/2" less than your measurement. Install
the J-channel around the opening, centering the J-channel so
that each end of the J-channel is 1/4" from the opening. Nail the
J-channel every 8" to 10".
Lineal application around windows
Measure the top of the casing and add 7" (3-1/2" extra for each
side). After the piece is cut to length, flip it over and cut 3/8" off
the locking leg as shown.
Snap the lineal over the J-channel as shown.
Repeat the process for the bottom of the casing.
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Measure the side casing and add 7". Use a triangle to create a 45˚
angle or measure 3-1/2" in from the edge of the part. Use snips or
a miter saw to remove this portion.
Flip the part over and remove the locking leg as shown.
This should be done to both ends.
Snap the lineal over the J-channel as shown. Use the same
measurements for both sides.
Corner blocks
Install J-channel around the perimeter of the window opening.
J-channel should be the same length as the casing.
Install corner blocks on all 4 corners as shown. Leave blocks loose
until the lineals are installed.
Cut the lineals the same length as the window casing.
Start with one end and angle a lineal into the corner block and
snap it over the J-channel.
Continue installing lineals around the window.
Crown molding
Crown molding will fit over the top of the lineal system.
Install J-channel and lineals around window casing.
Measure the top lineal and add 2-1/2". This will be the crown
molding length.
Insert crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace the
shape. Trim off the marked line.
The crown molding requires a tab 2" long—cut from the pocket
receiver as shown.
Cut the crown molding cap in half and apply the halves with a
bead of caulk.
Insert the crown molding into the top of the lineal as shown.
48
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measure window and subtract 1/2"
(leaving 1/4" per side as shown)
Lineal Starter Application for Windows
and Door Surrounds
vertical pieces: place the uppermost
nail in top of nail slot (still loose nailed)
When securing window and corner starter strips, outside corner
pieces (OSCP), inside corner pieces (ISCP), one piece corners,
lineals—basically, any vertically mounted siding product—always
place the top nail (or staple) first, and in a manner that allows the
part to hang from it without dropping. This promotes movement
downward only, a must for a good corner joint. This is the only time
you should not center a nail (or staple). It is also preferred to use
the nail slots closest to the locking area (when using product with
double nail slots).
1/4"
1/4"
Remember to place the nails for the horizontal pieces in the center
of the nailing slots as shown. Space nails 8" to 10" apart.
window
or door
frame
remaining vertical nails and all
horizontal nails: place in center of slots
Using a 1/2" J-channel as a starter for lineals
NOTE: Slide the lineals on from either end of the
J-channel (the lineal will not snap over the J-channel
as with a New Construction Starter Strip), or pull the
J-channel away from the window slightly and zip the
lineal into place.
1/2"
J-channel
If the opening has no framework, such as a brick molding, use the
metal starter (illustrated below left), or the Remodeling Window and
Door Starter (illustrated below) in place of the New Construction
Window and Door Starter Strip shown above. The lineal’s locking
leg will fit behind the aluminum starter and into the receiving
pocket of the Remodeling Window and Door Starter.
wall (substrate)
door opening
door opening
wall (substrate)
inverted
metal
starter
remodeling
window and
door starter
position of nail
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Lineal Application around Windows
Measure the top of the opening and add 7" (3-1/2" extra for
each side) if the side lineals are also 3-1/2". Add 10" total if
using 5" lineals.
3-1/2"
Use a triangle to create a 45° angle or measure 3-1/2" in from
the locking leg.
remove
45°
NOTE: The nail flange is always the longest part of a
surrounding miter.
3-1/2"
cut for
rain tab
Use snips to remove the part as shown.
back-side
view of
mitered lineal
Cut a 3/4" rain tab (as shown).
rain
tab
Snap the completed top lineal into the previously attached
starter strip.
NOTE: The bottom miter of side lineals has the same
cut as both ends of a top lineal.
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Measure the height of the window or door. Add 7"
(for the 3-1/2" header and bottom lineal) and cut.
1/2"
3-1/2"
NOTE: Add additional material if using 5" lineals.
window or
door frame
3/4"
Trim a minimum of 3/4" from the top end of the side lineals.
view of above notches
from back side of lineal
rain tab shown bent into
receiving pocket of side lineal
Snap the side lineals into place, making sure the rain tabs of
the top lineal are bent down into the receiving pocket of the
side lineals.
window
frame
If the lineal surrounds a window frame, the bottom corner
requires a 45° miter as done previously for the top lineal.
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Measure the bottom of the opening and add 7" (3-1/2" extra
for each side) if the side lineals are also 3-1/2". Add 10" total
if using 5" lineals.
window
frame
3-1/2"
3/4"
Trim 3/4" tabs from the lineal as shown.
3/4"
view of
notching
from back
side (same on
both ends)
Snap the lineal in place and secure by nailing (or stapling) it
through center of the nail slots.
finished
assembly
with side
lineal
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Lineals over Horizontal Siding
5" lineal
flashing
new construction
starter strip
Butt dual undersill trim
upward against the bottom
of the flashing
dual undersill trim
Hand punch horizontal
siding (locking area has been
removed). Siding panel locks
into dual undersill trim.
Capping a Lineal Used as a Rake Board
Cut a section of lineal equal in
length to the face of the lineal.
This dimension is dependent on
the rake angle.
Using PVC cement primer
and cement on both pieces,
slide the part into the lineal
to create an assembly.
Apply the assembly to the wall and
secure it, nailing as necessary.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Corner Blocks
1/8" per side
make 1" cuts
Corner block
Install 1/2" J-channel as a starter. Measure and cut the side
lineals to the exact size of the window or door opening.
Cut the top and bottom lineals 1/4" longer than the window.
Using vinyl snips, make two 1" long cuts in the pocket areas on
both sides of each lineal. These cuts allow the lineals to connect
with the corner block and help provide proper drainage.
NOTE: It may be helpful to hold off securing the lineals until
the corner block is in place.
Position the corner block by inserting the top lineal into the corner
block’s receiving area—making sure the lineal’s pocket is inside
that of the corner block.
Position the vertical (side) lineal into the corner block by inserting
the pocket of the corner cover into the pocket of the lineal.
This will ensure proper drainage.
Corner block with rosette
Locate the small dimple on the back side of the block’s face or
measure 2-5/16" as shown and mark.
2-5/16"
Drill or punch a 3/32" to 1/8" diameter hole through the face of
the block—the hole must not be larger than 1/8".
2-5/16"
NOTE: Check the back side of the block for this location—
marked by “+”.
rosette
center
(back
side)
Apply the rosette clip from the backside. If desired, a small amount
of caulk can be applied over the hole prior to applying the rosette.
rosette clip
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5" Square Header with End Caps over
3-1/2" Lineals Sides and Bottoms
Assemble the 5" header and cap. The side 3-1/2" lineals should
extend approximately 1" inside the header assembly.
3/4"
3/4" rain tab
end cap
(from 5"
lineal)
5" lineal
header
removing this section
allows side 3-1/2" lineal to
slide behind the 5" header
3-1/2"
1-1/8"
Finish the corner by sliding the 3-1/2" side lineals behind the
header, making sure the 2" rain tab on the end cap extends into
the receiving area of the side lineals.
1-1/2" to 1-3/4" slit
in pocket area of the
3-1/2" side lineals
NOTE: If using crown molding, see page 58.
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Creating End Caps for 5" Lineals
remove
3/4"
remove
To create the header, first cut a 7" piece of 5" lineal. Measure and
trim as shown.
The resulting piece fits into the end of the 5" lineal.
The ends of the 5" lineal also need trimming to receive the end
caps. Create a 3/4" rain tab in the pocket area and trim off a
3/4" tab from the bottom.
2"
remove
3/4"
raintab
3/4"
NOTE: To make end caps for 3-1/2" lineals, simply start with
a 5-1/2" piece and remove the 3/4" and 2" areas as shown
for the 5" end caps.
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Slip Joints for Lineal Corners
Assemble the 5" header and cap. The side 3-1/2" lineals should
extend approximately 1" inside the header assembly.
3/4"
3/4" rain tab
3/4" end
cap (from
5" lineal
5" lineal
header
2"
removing this section allows
side 3-1/2" lineal to slide
behind the 5" header
3-1/2"
1-1/8"
Finish the corner by sliding the 3-1/2" side lineals behind the
header, making sure the 2" rain tab on the end cap extends into
the receiving area of the side lineals.
1-1/2" to 1-3/4" slit
in pocket area of the
3-1/2" side lineals
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Crown Molding Treatment Options
Option 1 (page 59)
• Crown molding
• Crown molding end caps
• 3/4" Pocket J-channel header and surround
Other options are possible with the crown molding: For example,
use 3-1/2" lineals vertically and at the window base along with a
J-channel and crown molding header. The only requirement for
using the crown molding is having receiving channels 3/4" wide.
Option 2 (page 59)
• Crown molding
• Crown molding end caps
• 3-1/2" Lineal header
• 3-1/2" Lineal surrounds
NOTE: Corner blocks/rosettes can be used to join lineals
at the corner.
Option 3 (page 60)
• Crown molding
• Crown molding end caps
• 5" Lineal header
• 5" Header end caps
• 3-1/2" Lineal surrounds
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cut crown molding
cap in half
Crown Molding and Cap for
3/4" Pocket J-Channel
You will need:
• Crown molding
• Crown molding end caps
• 3/4" pocket J-channel header and surround
2" rain tab
window
flashing
To use crown molding with 3/4" pocket J-channels, measure the
length of the completed J-channel surround and add 2-1/2" (the
crown molding overlaps the J-channels by 1-1/4" per side).
Insert the crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace the
tip shape. Trim as shown.
window
or door
frame
Insert 1/2 of the crown molding cap into each end of the crown
molding lineal. Secure the crown molding with a bead of caulk.
Miter or square cut the J-channel (mitered corner is shown).
Insert the 3/4" wide rain tab into the receiving channel of the
side J-channel.
insert cap (see above
for instructions on
assembling the cap)
2"
rain
tab
Crown Molding with 3-1/2" Lineal Surround
In addition to J-channel, crown moldings can also be used
with lineals. The next two pages demonstrate how crown
molding can be used with various lineal configurations.
Above all, remember that before applying accessories and
siding, make certain the substrate is watertight. In order to be
properly protected from precipitation, the substrate may need
to be properly flashed to shed water to the exterior. The siding
alone is not a watertight barrier.
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5" lineal header
Crown Molding with Cap for
5" Header Lineal
Crown molding with 5" header and 3-1/2" surrounds.
Determine the header length by measuring from the outside of
both side lineals and adding 1/16" to 1/8" per side for overlap.
To cut the crown molding, add 2-1/2" to the previously determined
header length (1-1/4" added per side).
1/16" to
1/8" per
side
window
or door
frame
3-1/2" lineal
To create the header end cap, cut a 9-1/4" piece of 5" lineal and
trim as shown.
2-1/4"
2"
rain
tab
Notch both ends of the header as shown.
3/4"
3/4"
3/4"
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Insert a crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace the
shape. Trim as shown.
the crown molding
requires a rain tab 2"
long—cut from the
pocket receiver
apply the crown
molding to the header
with a bead of caulk
Insert the header cap.
cut in half
finished assembly
Cut the crown molding cap in half. Apply each half to the end of
the crown molding and secure it with a bead of caulk.
rain tab to divert
water from
crown molding
to side lineals
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Band Board
Installing Band Board
Before you begin, determine where the last course of siding will
end. Nail cornice receiver loosely every 8" to 10", with the nailing
fin facing up. Keep the cornice receiver straight as it establishes
the line for the Band Board.
Install the last course of siding 1/4" below the cornice receiver.
If necessary, trim the top of the siding panel to fit below the cornice
receiver. With a nail slot punch, punch nail slots 16" apart, 1/4"
from the panel’s upper edge. Nail through the center of the holes
for a loose fit between the panel surface and the nail heads.
Cut Band Board to length, allowing for clearance between the
Band Board ends and the trim for expansion and contraction.
Push the snap leg of the Band Board into the cornice receiver.
Nail the Band Board loosely every 10" to 12".
Fitting into trim pieces
nail with fin facing up
The Band Board is designed to fit into 1-1/4" J-channel, pocket
corners, and lineal accessories.
For lengths less than 12', allow 1/4" gap between the ends
and the trim at temperatures above 40°F; allow 3/8" gap at
temperatures below 40°F.
For lengths greater than 12', allow 3/8" gap between the ends
and the trim at temperatures above 40°F; allow 1/2" gap at
temperatures below 40°F.
When using the Band Board in installations with accessories
that DO NOT have a 1-1/4" pocket, be sure to allow clearance
between the two pieces for expansion. Trim a short section of
Band Board to create an end cap for these applications.
Installing siding above Band Board
There are two ways to continue siding above the Band Board:
• For horizontal siding, use a starter strip. Position the starter
strip above the Band Board enough to allow the siding return
leg to engage the starter strip.
• For vertical siding, use J-channel. Align the nail slots of the
J-channel with the nail slots of the Band Board.
push snap leg of band board into
cornice receiver
NOTE: When nailing a starter strip, avoid pinning the Band
Board. The Band Board must be allowed to expand and
contract freely.
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Overlapping two pieces of Band Board
Only factory-cut edges can be used create a lap seam. The
adhesive begins approximately 2" back from the end of the foam.
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
7-1/8"
For the underside piece, measure back 1-1/2" from the end of
the vinyl. Cut back 1-1/2" of foam and remove the bottom portion
of the rear return and snap leg. Slip the vinyl edge of the bottom
portion of the seam between the foam and the vinyl panel. Slide
two pieces together, overlapping them 1-1/4", leaving a 1/4" gap
between the foam for expansion.
1
Creating end caps for Band Board
2
To create end caps for Band Board:
1. Cut 1/8" off the bottom of a piece of Band Board, leaving a
piece that is 7-1/8" wide.
2-3/4"–3"
2. Remove the foam from the back of the piece.
3
3. Then, cut the piece down so that it is 2-3/4"–3" wide. The nail
hem will be either left or right, as the insert can be used for
either side.
4. With the nail hem to the side, insert the cut piece between the
foam and the Band Board. This will form a tight fit, but it may
be necessary to glue or caulk at the point where the Band
Board meets the cut piece.
NOTE: Depending upon the corner system you are using, you
may have to trim the nail hem to fit.
4
5
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Blind Miter
An alternative to a standard blind miter offers support to the corner
without adding material. The measurements shown for the fold are
for a 5" lineal. The same method can be used with 3-1/2" lineals,
but the fold would be changed from 1-1/2" to 1-3/8".
Dotted line represents
the position of a 45˚
mitered 5" lineal
3/4"
Measure and
notch 1-1/2"
Measure at least
1-1/2" and notch
with snips
Remove
this corner
(dimension
dependent on
1/2" minimum
shown below)
Lineal Frieze Board
5" lineal
lineal
starter
cornice
receiver
1/4"
1/4"
cornice
molding
panel
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Finishing siding with Cornice Molding
and Receiver
Finishing the last course of siding with Cornice Molding
cornice receiver
To finish the top course of siding, attach cornice receiver to the top
of the wall under the eave or soffit. Trim the top panel to within 1/4"
of the cornice receiver. Using a nail slot punch, punch nail slots
1/4" from the trimmed edge, 16" apart. Nail off the top course
and snap the cornice molding into the cornice receiver.
1/4"
cornice
molding
Finishing siding in a rake application with
Cornice Molding
1/4"
When using cornice molding and receiver in a rake, shimming
the receiver away from the wall may minimize rippling of the face.
Cut a piece of shim material the full length of the cornice receiver
and fasten shim material to the wall. Apply receiver over shim;
then finish installing siding product and cornice molding as you
normally would.
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Installing J-Channel as Gable End Trim
Install J-channel to receive siding at gable ends, as shown in the
illustration. To create a clean, professional look, follow these steps:
To create an angle template, hold a piece of J-channel against
the slope while transferring the angle to another J-channel with
a pencil.
Next, transfer the angle of the template to the end of a length
of J-channel. Be sure to extend the line onto the nail flange.
Cut away the channel face and the nail flange.
90º
Turn the pattern over and transfer the opposite angle to the
second J-channel, being sure to extend the line onto the nail
flange. Cut away the nail flange and return lip, but do not cut the
J-channel face.
90º
Insert the full-faced J-channel into the mitered J-channel. If the nail
flange or return lips butt and prevent a tight fit, trim off additional
material from the second J-channel.
NOTE: For a more decorative appearance, you also can
use 3-1/2" or 5" lineals to trim gable ends (see next page
for details).
1"
To splice the J-channel, follow these steps:
Cut out a 1" section of the nailing flange and face return as shown.
Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the
eave. Here again, leave a 1/4" gap between the J-channel
and the cornerposts. Overlap the J-channel 3/4" to allow for
expansion. When positioning the upper J-channel, be sure to
allow for expansion of the siding panel. In most cases, position
the J-channel at a point equal to the length of the panel plus 5/8"
(1/4" for upper expansion and 3/8" for lower expansion).
3/4"
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Using Lineals as Gable Trim
You can give gable end trim a more dramatic appearance by using
3-1/2" or 5" lineals instead of J-channel.
To install the lineals:
Make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. To create an angle
template, lock a piece of lineal into the previous course of siding or
other gable starter. Hold a second piece of lineal or starter against
the slope and transfer the angle with a pencil.
Transfer the angle of the template to the end of a length of lineal.
Cut away the lineal face and nail flange.
90º
Turn the pattern over and transfer the opposite angle to the
second lineal. Trim the nail flange and receiving channel from the
opposite lineal to this line. Do not cut the lineal face.
90º
Insert the full-faced lineal into the mitered lineal. If the nail flange
or return lips butt and prevent a tight fit, trim off additional material
from the second lineal.
starter strip
Installing trim at roof line
To prevent water infiltration along the intersection of roof and wall,
install flashing before installing J-channel. At points where vinyl
siding and accessories will meet at a roof line—such as areas
where a gable dormer or a second story side wall intersect with the
roof —it’s best to position the J-channel so it is a minimum of 1/2"
away from the roof line. Placing the J-channel directly on the roof
line will subject it to a build-up of heat, which could result
in excessive expansion.
1/2" (min.)
NOTE: If you use more than one length of J-channel to span a
wall surface, be sure to overlap them 3/4".
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flashing
Using Restoration Millwork® in Place of
Vinyl Accessories
Installing outside corners
shim
corners
to create
proper
pocket
height
Flash the corners of the home by bending a 20" wide piece of
aluminum trim coil 90° so you have two 10" legs. Cover the entire
length of the corner, lapping the upper pieces over the lower
pieces. (Self-adhering flashing may be substituted for trim coil.
Follow manufacturer’s installation instructions and observe local
building code requirements.)
Position the outside cornerpost with the top of the post 1/8" from
the underside of the eave and the bottom of the cornerpost 3/4"
below the starter strip. Make sure posts are straight and true
before fastening. For advice regarding fastening, please refer to
“Restoration Millwork Installation Guidelines” (RM003), available
online or where Restoration Millwork is sold.
optional
J-Pocket
NOTE: It may be necessary to shim or furr out the corners
and/or window casings to get the proper pocket height.
Always use shimming/furring materials, like Restoration
Millwork, that will not rot or decay.
flashing
Installing Trimboards around windows
Flash the window according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
Once the opening is properly flashed, begin by measuring
the width of the bottom edge of the window and, using this
measurement, cut the first section of Restoration Millwork. Apply
this piece to the bottom of the window, verifying each end of the
section lines up with the edge of the window prior to fastening.
measure
width of
window for
first piece
top of
window
To determine the length of the trim along the sides of the window,
measure each side of the window starting at the top of the window
and dropping down to the bottom edge of the first piece of
millwork applied. Using these measurements, cut the second and
third sections of Restoration Millwork. Apply these pieces to the left
and right sides of the window, verifying that the top edge of each
section lines up with the top of the window and the bottom edge
of each section lines up with the bottom edge of the first piece of
trim already applied.
bottom of
window
To determine the length of the top piece of trim, begin at the left
side of the left piece of trim and measure to the right side of the
right piece of trim. This measurement should equal the width of
the window plus two times the actual width of the trimboards
being applied. Cut the final piece of trim and apply it at the top of
the window, again verifying that the left and right edges of the cut
section line up with the left and right edges of the trimboards in
place at the sides of the window.
measure from
left side of
trim to right
side of trim
Once the top section of millwork is in place, apply flashing in
compliance with local building codes.
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Installing Trimboards around exterior doors
Flash the door according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
Once the opening is properly flashed, begin by determining the
length of the trim along the sides of the door by measuring each
side. Start at the top of the door and drop down to the desired
termination point. Using these measurements, cut the second and
third sections of Restoration Millwork. Apply these pieces to the
left and right sides of the door, verifying that the top edge of each
section lines up with the top of the door.
To determine the length of the top piece of trim, begin at the left
side of the left piece of trim and measure to the right side of the
right piece of trim. This measurement should equal the width of
the door plus two times the actual width of the trimboards being
applied. Cut the final piece of trim and apply it at the top of the
door, again verifying that the left and right edges of the cut section
line up with the left and right edges of the trimboards in place at
the sides of the door.
Once the top section of millwork is in place, apply flashing in
compliance with local building codes.
Occasionally you will need to create a pocket to accommodate a
nailing flange:
1. Measure the width of the nailing flange of the window at the
opening where you plan to apply the trim.
2. Set the blade depth of your table saw approximately 1/8"
higher than the width of the window nailing flange.
3. Set the table saw fence so you are cutting away only the
thickness of the saw blade from the trimboard.
4. Make one cut from the back side of the trimboard on your
table saw.
5. Check to be sure the trimboard will lay flat against the wall and
that all joints are tight before fastening. If the boards do not
lay flat against the wall or joints are not tight, repeat the above
instructions starting at step 3.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Section 7 — Installing Horizontal Siding
Top Ten Tips for Installing Vinyl Siding
CertainTeed provides quality vinyl siding and accessories that are
backed by one of the industry’s best warranties. However, even
the best products fall short of expectations if they are not installed
properly. Following these ten recommendations—the basics of a
professional installation—can help ensure a quality installation that
fulfills homeowners’ expectations and reduces call backs.
1. Install all siding and accessories over a smooth, flat surface.
Always install siding over a rigid sheathing, and never install it
over open studs.
2. Vinyl siding is not a watertight material. Install a weather-resistant
barrier, like CertainTeed CertaWrap, and flash around all
windows and doors before installing vinyl siding and trim.
3. There are three recommended ways to cut vinyl siding: For rip
cuts, score the panel with a knife or vinyl blade and bend the
panel back and forth. Use aviator snips or shears to fit panels
around windows and doors. For cross cuts, use a circular saw
with a plywood blade in the reverse position.
4. Always leave room for expansion and contraction into receiving
channels like outside cornerposts, inside cornerposts, and
J-channel. If the temperature is above 40°, leave 1/4"; if the
temperature is below 40°, leave 3/8".
5. When installing horizontal vinyl siding panels 12' 6" in length or
shorter, overlap the factory notches 1" to 1-1/4" (depending on
the temperature).
6. Always nail in the center of the nail slots: 16" on center for
siding; 8" to 12" for accessories.
7. DO NOT NAIL TIGHT! Always leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the
nail head and the wall surface to allow for movement when the
panel expands and contracts.
8. Hang vertical accessories from the top of the top nail slot.
If the accessory is longer than 12', hang it from the top two
nail slots.
9. Lap away from the highest traffic pattern, typically the front of
the house. Keep laps at least 3' apart from course to course,
and install three courses between laps above each other.
10. Finish the last piece of siding into utility trim or dual utility trim.
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factory
notches
Cutting Panels
To cut panels to size, follow these procedures:
Cross cuts
For a precise cut, use a power circular saw equipped with a sharp,
fine-tooth plywood blade. For best results, reverse blade direction.
Cut one or two panels at a time, carefully advancing the saw
through the vinyl. A rule of thumb: The lower the temperature,
the slower the feed rate.
Panels can also be cut with snips. Use a square to mark the cut
line. Start the cut at the top lock and continue to the bottom of
the panel.
1"
Rip cuts
Use a utility knife to score the panel along the cut line.
Bend the panel back and forth along the score line until it
snaps apart cleanly.
Use a combination of tin snips and utility knife to cut panels to fit
around windows and doors.
Overlapping Panels
Refer to the chart on page 35/36 for required overlap spacing.
NOTE: Whenever you cut a panel to be used in an overlap
area, you also have to duplicate the factory notch at both
the top and bottom of the cut end.
Carolina
Beaded
factory
NOTE: The Carolina Beaded panel is factory-notched in three
places. For best results, overlap panels using factory notched
ends only. If a panel must be cut on site, insert cut ends into
receiving channels in cornerposts or J-channel. If this isn’t
possible, create an exact duplicate of notches using aviation
or tin snips.
notches
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
STUDfinder Installation System
for 12' Panels
The STUDfinder™ Installation System combines precisely
engineered nail slot locations with graphics to help ensure quick,
accurate and secure installation of CertainTeed siding panels on
homes with standard 16" or 24" o.c. frame construction.
NOTE: In areas without special wind-load requirements, some
vinyl siding may be used in 24" o.c. construction. Check with
your local building code official for special requirements and
ICC-ES Evaluation Report ESR-1066 for special wind-load
requirements.
Standard 12' panels feature 10 nail slots every 16", with one of the
10 letters in the word “STUDfinder” centered directly under each
slot. Locate the first stud and fasten the siding to it in the center
of the nail slot. Ensure that nail/staple penetration is at least 3/4" to
comply with ASTM D4756 (specification for vinyl siding installation).
Notice which STUDfinder letter appears below the slot.
Go to the next repeat of the letter to find the next stud. For
example, if your first stud is at “T,” succeeding studs in 16" o.c.
applications will also be at “T” (every 10th slot).
When you apply the next panel, adjust the overlap as necessary to
line up with studs and repeat the steps above, but be aware that
the overlapping panels may not use the same letter as your initial
panel.
In 24" o.c. applications with standard size siding panels, 2 letters
will repeat every other stud (every 15th slot). For example, if the
first stud is located at “S,” then the next will be at “i,” then “S,” then
“i,” etc.
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STUDfinder Installation System for
Oversized (16', 16' 8", 20' and 25') Panels
CertainTeed’s longer siding panels – 16'8" CedarBoards XL,
16' and 20' Monogram 46L and 25' Monogram 46XL – feature
8 nail slots every 16", with one of the 8 letters of the word
“STUDfind” centered directly under each slot. In 16" o.c.
applications, locate the first stud and follow the same basic
procedure described for standard size panels: note which
STUDfind letter appears below the first nail slot and go to
the repeat of that letter to find the next succeeding stud
(every 8th slot).
When installing longer Monogram or CedarBoard panels on 24"
centers, the succeeding studs are at every 12th slot; for example,
if you start at “T,” then the next will be at “i,” then “T,” then “i,” etc.
NOTE: Monogram XL 25' panels must be “center pinned” to
control expansion and contraction. To do so, locate the center
nailing slot of the panel and drive nails into both ends of the
slot (see illustration). This is only done for one nail slot per
panel.
NOTE: Ensure that nail/staple penetration is at least 3/4"
to comply with ASTM D4756 (specification for vinyl siding
installation). Also be sure to allow 3/8" for expansion and
contraction between panel ends and trim when install
temperature is greater than 40° F, and 1/2" for expansion
and contraction between panel ends and trim when install
temperature is less than 40° F.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Preparing Wall Surfaces
The key to successful vinyl siding application is proper preparation
of the nailing surface. It is essential that you work over a smooth
nailing surface. The more level and even the wall surface, the better
the finished installation will look.
The steps involved in preparation differ for new homes and old, so
choose the instructions (page 28 to 33) that pertain to your project.
Installing the first course
It’s important to work with care and planning as you install siding
panels. This is especially true when you’re installing the first course
of siding. (See pages 33 to 35 for fastening methods.)
For best results, follow these guidelines:
room for
expansion
lock panel to
starter strip
The key to creating a visually attractive installation is to lap away
from areas where people normally walk or gather. For example,
on the front wall, work from the corners to the entrance door
(so overlaps face away from door).
On side walls, work from the rear corners toward the front. This
approach minimizes the effect of lapping and produces the best
appearance. Keep lap appearance in mind throughout installation.
NOTE: Lap appearance is also improved when you avoid
using panels less than 3' long.
Slide the first panel into the cornerpost recess. Leave room for
expansion (see page 35-36 for spacing requirements).
Hook the bottom lock of the panel into the interlock bead of the
starter strip by applying upward pressure.
Before nailing, double check to make certain you’ve locked the
panel along its entire length. A slight upward pressure may be
required to snap the interlock securely. Don’t force the lock too
tightly, however. You may distort your laps. Nail properly. Also,
make certain the panel can slide freely. Start at the center of the
panel and work out.
Install the remaining starter course panels, overlapping panel
ends (see pages 35-36 for overlapping requirements). The last
nail should be at least 4" from the end of the panel to allow for a
neat lap.
lock not fully engaged
lock fully engaged
Remember to leave room for expansion when fitting panels into
remaining inside and outside cornerposts.
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Transitioning from brick, stone, or stucco to vinyl siding
To transition from brick, stone, or stucco to vinyl siding:
• Caulk where the sheathing meets the brick, stone, or stucco.
Caulk the flashing, and make sure a drip cap is in place.
sheathing
starter strip
or J-channel
• Use J-channel or starter strip to receive the siding when
installing horizontal siding, If you use starter strip, leave 3/8"
clearance so that the siding can engage securely.
flashing
mortar
• When installing vertical siding, use J-channel to receive
the siding.
Installing remaining courses
To ensure best appearance, position the laps to avoid unsightly
joint patterns. The illustration at left shows a well-planned
staggering of panel joints. Follow these guidelines:
• Separate joints by at least two courses.
• Avoid joints above and below windows.
• Leave at least 3' separating joints on successive courses.
• Use short cutoff lengths for fitting at narrow openings
between windows.
• Follow the planned pattern when applying the next
courses of siding.
Fitting under windows
You’ll probably have to cut panels to fit under windows.
To make this task easier, plan panel positioning as shown at left
so a single panel extends beyond both sides of window opening.
Follow these steps to measure and cut panels:
Hold the panel in place and mark the width of the window opening.
Add 1/4"–3/8" to both ends to allow for expansion. The resulting
marks show the location of vertical cuts. Extend the marks onto
the panel using a square.
Create a template for the horizontal cut using a small piece of
scrap siding. Lock this piece into the lower panel and mark 1/4"
below the sill height. This provides clearance for undersill trim.
Repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the window. (You
can’t assume windows will be perfectly level.)
1/4"
1/4"
Transfer the marks from the template to the panel. Connect marks
using a straightedge.
Cut the panel, using tin snips to make vertical cuts and a utility
knife to make the horizontal cut.
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Install panel
If necessary to maintain the slope angle, install furring under the sill
as described on pages 31 to 32.
window
J-channel
NOTE: You can eliminate this step by using dual undersill trim.
This trim has two receiving channels. Use the inner channel
if you’ve cut the siding panel near the locking edge. Use the
outer channel if the cut has been made near the butt edge.
utility trim
dual
undersill
trim
horizontal
siding
Use a snap lock punch to raise tab faces on the outside of the
panel. Punch out a tab every 6".
Push the horizontal edge of the cut into utility trim. Slide vertical
edges of cut into J-channels at window sides. Make certain the
installed panel locks into the panel below.
Fitting over windows and doors
The procedure for cutting panels for installation over windows and
doors is similar to that explained earlier.
If necessary to maintain the slope angle, install furring above the
window or door as explained on pages 31 to 32.
Drop the panel into position, making certain it fits into the undersill
trim and J-channel at the top and J-channel at the sides. Interlock
the panel with the siding panels below.
installing trimmed panels
with dual undersill trim
Fitting at narrow openings between windows
To simplify installation in areas such as that shown in the
illustration, install J-channel on both sides of opening.
Bow the panel toward you and slip it into the channel.
If the area is very narrow, leave one J-channel unnailed except at
the lowest point (as shown). Bend this channel out slightly to insert
panel. When the panel is in place and nailed, nail the J-channel
immediately above the panel and repeat the procedure. Be sure to
leave adequate tolerances for expansion and contraction.
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Fitting at gable ends
Make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. Use this pattern to
guide the cutting of panels to fit gable ends.
To make pattern:
Lock a short piece of siding into the panel gable starter course as
shown in the illustration.
Hold a second piece of siding against the J-channel at the slope.
Run a pencil along edge of this piece, transferring the slope angle
to the first piece of siding.
Cut along the line using a power saw or tin snips. Use the resulting
pattern to mark siding panels before cutting.
NOTE: Double-check the angle on the pattern at every course.
If necessary, cut a new pattern.
colored
aluminum
finish nail
To install cut panels:
Slip the angled end of the panel into J-channel along the gable
edge. Leave space for expansion.
Interlock with the siding panel below.
If necessary to securely fasten the last panel at the gable peak,
face nail as shown in illustration. This is the only place you will face
nail. Use a 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" aluminum nail with painted head.
NOTE: Do not cover louvers in gables.
Fitting under soffit
When you reach the last course of siding, you will probably have
to rip cut panels lengthwise to fit under soffit.
NOTE: If necessary to ensure proper panel slope angle,
make certain to furr out this area.
To cut and install this last course:
Install J-channel and undersill trim or dual undersill trim.
distance minus 1/4"
Measure from the soffit to the base of upper lock on the previous
course of panels. Subtract 1/4". Mark this dimension on the panel
to be cut, taking the measurement from the bottom edge of panel.
For a more precise cut, repeat this procedure at several other
points along the span to be covered by the panel.
Using a square or straightedge, draw a pencil line connecting
these points. Then score along the line with a utility knife. Bend
the panel back and forth until it snaps. Use a snap lock punch to
create tabs on the outside face of the panel, 1/4" below the cut
edge. Space tabs every 6".
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To install, lock the bottom of the cut panel into the panel below.
Push the top edge into J-channel or undersill trim. Tabs will catch
in the trim and hold the panel firmly in place.
NOTE: Since you will not nail this last course, it is important
that the tabs fit properly in the trim to provide support while
allowing movement for expansion.
1/4"
from
edge
Finishing the top course
To finish the top course of siding, attach cornice receiver to the top
of the wall under the eave or soffit. Trim the top panel to within 1/4"
of the cornice receiver. Using a nail slot punch, punch nail slots
1/4" from the trimmed edge of the siding panel, 16" apart. Nail
off the top course, and snap the cornice molding into the cornice
receiver. An alternate method is to use J-channel and furring strips.
1/4"
cornice
molding
Completion
1/4"
Attaching objects to siding
All external products (downspouts, shutters, and lights, for
example) are attached to walls after you’ve applied the vinyl siding.
NOTE: All external fixtures must be attached to a solid
backing (such as 3/4" exterior grade plywood) to provide
a secure mounting surface. Never attach a fixture directly
to vinyl siding.
When installing external products, you must allow for expansion
and contraction of siding.
You can allow for this movement in two ways:
1/4" to 3/8"
for expansion
The most convenient way to attach light fixtures is with light
blocks. Because they contain receiving channels to hold siding
panels, light blocks provide a simple way to allow for expansion.
When attaching other fixtures, drill holes in the siding 1/4" larger
than the diameter of screws, bolts, or nails being used to fasten
objects. This provides adequate clearance so the siding can move
freely underneath attached objects. When attaching objects, do
not fasten tightly. It is also recommended that you apply caulk
around the screws.
light block
mounting
bracket
Fitting at light blocks
When cutting panels to fit at a light block, be sure to allow
for expansion.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
a
Shutter Installation
The ideal application (a) has a joint between the two shutters
where the shutters are secured to the home. In this way, the
siding panel is not “hard nailed” between the two shutters and
the siding is allowed free movement.
When there is no joint between the shutters and when the shutters
are secured to the home (b), the shutters’ fasteners do not
allow the siding panel to move. The siding panel then fails
to perform because it cannot expand or contract with the
temperature changes.
To prevent this, enlarge the holes in the siding for securing
the shutter—the hole should be 1/4" larger than the shank
of the fastener.
b
If possible, stagger the screws securing the shutter so that they
do not line up on the same panel. It is also a good idea to apply
caulk around the screws.
NOTE: See page 76 for fitting siding into narrow openings.
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Section 8 – Installing Vertical Siding (Including Board & Batten)
Preparing Wall Surfaces
upper edge of topmost
For the most part, the wall preparation instructions given for
horizontal siding also apply to vertical applications. The key
requirement, of course, is that you start with a smooth, level and
rigid substrate (plywood, wood composite, rigid foam or fiber
sheathing).
nailing slot
NOTE: Never install vinyl siding over open furring strips or
studs. Always check with your local building code official.
With vertical siding, however, you may have to complete an extra
step to provide solid nailing points along the vertical edge of the
siding panel. The need for this added step depends on the type
of substrate used and the nature of the construction project.
nail to furring
1" x 3" furring
With new construction or remodeling using plywood or wood
composite, there are no additional steps. You can nail into
plywood and wood composite substrates at any point as long
as you do not exceed 12" on center.
12"
In new construction using rigid foam or fiber sheathing, you must
install solid wood nailer strips horizontally to studs before applying
sheathing. Use 1" x 3" wood furring positioned 12" o.c.
When remodeling over existing wood siding, you must apply
rigid foam or fiber sheathing, shimming if necessary to create
a level surface.
1/2" foam sheathing
When remodeling over brick, block, stucco or irregular wall
surfaces, apply furring strips horizontally to create a level surface;
then apply rigid foam or fiber sheathing. See “Tips for applying
wood furring” on pages 31 to 32 and “Applying over stucco”
on page 32. When reviewing the illustrations for those sections,
remember that furring strips must be applied horizontally.
always position
topmost nail in
topmost full nail
slot with vertical
applications
Marking a base line
The procedure is virtually the same as that described earlier.
However, instead of snapping a chalk line 2-1/4" above the low
point, snap it 1" above the low point.
12"
NOTE: When installing vertical siding in high wind areas,
position the fasteners at the top two nail slots of the panel.
See pages 130 to 132 for installing CedarBoards Insulated
Vertical siding.
center nail in slots
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1A
1B
Cornerposts
Install outside and inside cornerposts using dimensions and
procedures described on pages 38–41.
NOTE: Unlike the preparation for horizontal siding, do
not install a starter strip for vertical siding.
Top and Bottom J-Channel
Snap a base line 1" above the low part of the house.
Apply J-channel along the top and bottom of the walls to
receive the siding panels. Install the bottom J-channel
(illustration 1A). Overlap J-channels 3/4". To do this, cut out a 1"
section of the nailing flange and face return (see illustration 2).
If you prefer to use drip flashing with the J-channel along the
bottom of the wall, fabricate the lengths you’ll need from aluminum
coil stock of a color to match the siding (see illustration 1B).
Illustration 2
1"
3/4"
F-channel
Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the eave.
Here again, leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and cornerposts.
Overlap J-channels 3/4" to allow for expansion. When positioning
the upper J-channel, be sure to allow for expansion of the siding
panel. In most cases, position the J-channel at a point equal to the
length of the panel plus 5/8" (1/4" for upper expansion and 3/8"
for lower expansion).
soffit
soffit
J-channel
J-channel
vertical
siding
vertical
siding
Soffit
If you’re going to install soffit, you may want to install the receiving
channels for the soffit at this point.
The illustrations show alternative approaches for installing siding
and soffit receiving channels.
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If a wall requires more than one course of siding, you can proceed
in one of three ways:
Use two lengths of J-channel, back-to-back, at the joint between
the two courses (illustration a).
vertical
vertical
siding
siding
Use a combination of one length of J-channel and one length of
drip cap (illustration b).
J-channel
J-channel
Use a double channel lineal and flashing where required.
flashing
drip cap
If using J-Channel
Snap a chalk line parallel to the bottom J-channel, at a height
equal to the length of the lower panel plus an allowance for
expansion. For example, if the lower panel is 144" long and
you’re adding 1/2" for expansion (because the temperature is
above 40°F), you strike a line 144-1/2" from the bottom J-channel.
Nail inverted J-channel along this line to receive panels from below.
Leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and cornerposts. Overlap the
J-channels 3/4".
J-channel
vertical
vertical
siding
siding
a
b
Prepare for the second course by applying head flashing above
the just-installed J-channel. Then nail J-channel over the flashing
to receive the upper panel.
NOTE: Some installers prefer to use formed aluminum
flashing in place of vinyl drip cap as the receiving channel
for the lower panel. This is also an acceptable approach.
J-Channel at Gable Ends
Follow the procedure described earlier under the section
“Preparation for Horizontal Siding” beginning on page 28.
If using double channel lineal: Measure the length of the lower
panel, then add an allowance for expansion. Snap a chalk
line parallel to the bottom J-channel, at a height equal to your
measurement. Position the lineal so the interior peak of the lower
channel runs along the chalk line. Leave a minimum 3/8" gap
between lineal and cornerposts when the ambient temperature is
higher than 40°F. When the ambient temperature is below 40°F,
leave a 1/2" gap.
double
channel
lineal
chalk
line
If necessary, overlap lineals 1-1/4".
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Wall Panels
Follow the instructions described earlier under the section
“Preparation for Horizontal Siding” beginning on page 28.
Plan the panel layout
Correctly installed vertical siding should have a balanced
appearance. This means that if you were to draw a vertical line
down the center point of a wall, you’d have an equal number of
panels to the right and left. If you had to trim panels to fit, the
end-most panels would be of identical width.
To create this pleasing appearance, divide the space to be covered
by a partial panel over both ends of a wall. For example, if a wall
required 25 full panels plus 10", you would rip cut two 5" lengths
of panel to create the end pieces.
Allow for 1/3 of
expansion
Expansion and contraction
In a vertical siding installation, most of the expansion is downward.
So instead of allowing equal space for expansion at both ends of
a vertical panel, leave more space at the lower end: allow for 1/3
of the total expansion at the top of a panel and 2/3 of the total
expansion at the bottom.
1A
For example, if the total expansion equals 3/4" (3/8" + 3/8"),
allow 1/4" at the top and 1/2" at the bottom. If the total expansion
equals 1/2" (1/4" + 1/4"), allow 3/16" at the top and 5/16" at
the bottom.
1B
NOTE: Always position top most nail at the top of the top
most full nail slot (1a). Center the remaining nails in the
slots (1b). When installing siding or accessories vertically,
make sure the bottom of the panel can expand downward
without interference.
Allow for 2/3 of
expansion
Cut the first of the partial panels (if partial panels are necessary).
Mark the cut line by measuring from the nail hem edge. Rip cut the
panel. Do not cut off the nail hem. Use a snap lock punch to create
locking tabs along the cut edge. Space the tabs 6" apart.
cornerpost
Before installing this partial panel into the outside cornerpost,
provide additional support at the cut edge to compensate for
the locking channel that was trimmed off.
furring
undersill
trim
To do this, insert furring into the channel of the outside cornerpost
and nail it to the substrate. After furring, insert a length of undersill
trim into the cornerpost and nail it to the furring. Finally, slide the
cut edge of the panel into the undersill trim, making sure to engage
the snap locks (see illustration).
snap
locks
Using a level, make certain this panel is plumb. Nail every 12".
Follow the same nailing procedures described for horizontal siding.
panel
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Install the next panel. Lock the panel into the preceding panel,
then nail every 12". Continue with succeeding panels.
When necessary, cut panels to fit around doors and windows.
When marking the cut, remember to allow for expansion.
The method used to install panels around doors and windows is
determined by the need to cut a panel and the position of that cut.
If a cut was made next to a remaining V-groove, insert the panel
into the J-channel. If a cut removes the support provided by a
V-groove, use the procedure described above to provide support
for the trimmed edge.
To finish the first course of a wall, cut the final panel to size
and install it in an outside cornerpost, using the method
described above.
NOTE: The cutting and supporting procedure described above
is also used when fitting panels into inside cornerposts.
Installing Gable End Panels
When installing vertical or Board & Batten siding on a gable end
wall, you should try to create a balanced appearance.
There are two ways to do this:
You can start from the center of the wall and work toward the
sides. Begin by finding the center point of the wall (beneath the
peak) and draw a plumb line. Nail two lengths of J-channel, back
to back, along this line. Be sure to flash underneath the J-channel
to help prevent water damage due to water seepage between
the J-channels. Cut the upper end of the first panel to the proper
height and slope. Remember to allow for expansion.
plumb
line
NOTE: To guide the cutting of the upper end of the panel,
make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. (See page 67.)
Insert the panel into the J-channel along the gable slope.
Use a level to make certain the panel is plumb. Nail every 12".
Continue cutting and installing panels. Then repeat the procedure
on the remaining half of the gable end.
If you want to work from one end of the wall to the other, begin by
centering a panel under the center of the peak. Mark the position
of the panel on the wall, then measure the distance from the left
(or right) cornerpost to mark for the left (or right) edge of the
center panel.
If you need a partial panel, cut it and install it at the cornerpost,
following the procedure described on page 83. Cut the upper end
of the panels to proper height and slope, following the procedure
described above. Remember to allow for expansion.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Section 9 — Porch Ceilings, Soffit, Fascia
Requirements for Proper Soffit Ventilation
Proper attic ventilation is important for any home. The 2009
International Building Code (IBC) Section 1203 Ventilation
furnishes a basic guide for determining proper ventilation for
any home. The information provided here may under certain
circumstances not result in enough ventilation. Therefore, the
calculation provided should be used as a guide only.
The IBC guideline requires that any attic or space between the top
floor, ceiling and roof must be ventilated. It requires one square
foot of ventilation area for every 150 square feet of attic space.
If a vapor retarder of less than one perm has been installed on the
warm side of the ceiling or if at least 50% of the required ventilating
area has already been provided by gable and vents or ridge vents,
you need add only one-half of the ventilation area that would
otherwise be required. The requirement would then be one square
foot of ventilation area for every 300 sq. ft. of attic space.
How to determine soffit ventilation
1. Determine the local code requirement for total attic ventilation.
1:150 requires 1 sq. ft. of ventilation for every
150 sq. ft. of attic space.
40'-0"
2'-0"
1:300 requires 1 sq. ft. of ventilation for every 300 sq. ft. of
attic space, if a vapor barrier having a transmission rate not
exceeding 1 perm is installed on the warm side of the ceiling.
2. Determine the total area of the attic (sq. ft.) to be ventilated.
40 ft. x 30 ft. = 1,200 sq. ft.
30'-0"
3. Total free area of ventilation required for the attic.
1,200 sq. ft. / 150 = 8.0 sq. ft.
4. Convert square feet into square inches (sq. in.).
8.0 sq. ft. x 144 = 1,152 sq. in.
2'-0"
ridge
eave
5. Location of vents.
50% at ridge, roof vent or gable vent =
1,152 x .50 = 576 sq. in.
50% at soffit/eave = 1,152 x .50 = 576 sq. in.
6. Total soffit ventilation area required.
Area of the soffit available for ventilation:
80 lineal ft. x 2 ft. soffit depth = 160 sq. ft.
Ventilation area required per sq. ft. of soffit =
576 sq. in. /160 sq. ft. = 3.6 sq. in. /sq. ft.
7. Soffit product selection.
Compare the soffit ventilation area required to the
manufacturer’s soffit product literature.
8. If the roof pitch is 9/12 or higher, add 30% more ventilation to
accommodate the higher volume of air moving through the air.
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Porch Ceilings
The procedures used to install a porch ceiling are in many ways
similar to those used to install soffit. These procedures vary slightly,
depending on whether you’re working on new construction or a
remodeling project.
New construction projects
Begin by installing receiving channels on all four sides of the porch.
If you are using F-channel, nail it to existing walls. If you are using
J-channel, you will have to install a nailing base.
If you plan to use light blocks to attach external light fixtures, install
them to adequate backing.
Plan the layout of the ceiling panels to achieve an even balance
or to align with adjacent work. If the ceiling panels will run parallel
to the ceiling joists, you will have to install additional 1" x 3" wood
furring nailing strips. Install these nailing strips perpendicular to the
ceiling joists, nailing according to the schedule below.
Invert J-channels and nail them to the underside of the wood strips
along the perimeter of the ceiling area.
Install the first panel into the channels at one end of the porch.
Be sure to leave room for expansion. Nail according to the
schedule below, positioning the nails in the centers of slots.
Do not nail tightly. Install remaining panels. When cutting the last
panel of the first course, be sure to allow room for expansion.
Nailing schedule for soffit
For areas where more than one panel length is needed, use a
double channel lineal.
If necessary, rip cut the final panel and use a snap lock punch to
create tabs every 8" to 10" along the cut edge. Attach utility trim
and insert the panel into the receiving channel.
NOTE: For best results, ensure you have adequate ventilation.
Beaded T2
Ironmax
Fasten 8" to 12"
Fasten every 16" to 24"
(as allowed by local building code)
T3-1/3
Fasten every 16" to 24"
(as allowed by local building code)
All other CertainTeed
soffit panels
Fasten every 16"
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Remodeling projects
Check to be sure the existing ceiling can serve as a solid nailing
base. If the existing ceiling is solid, remove all existing moldings
and fixtures from the ceiling and begin by nailing inverted J-channel
along the perimeter of the ceiling area.
If you plan to use light blocks to attach external light fixtures,
install them to adequate backing.
Plan the layout of the ceiling panels to achieve an even balance
or to align with adjacent work.
Use the existing ceiling as a nailing base for the panels. Install
the first panel into the channels at one end of the porch. Be sure
to leave room for expansion. Follow the nailing schedule on the
previous page, positioning the nails in the centers of the slots.
Do not nail tightly. Install the remaining panels. When cutting the
last panel of the first course, be sure to allow room for expansion.
For areas where more than one panel length is needed, use a
double channel lineal.
If necessary, rip cut the final panel and use a snap lock punch to
create tabs every 8" to 10" along the cut edge. Attach utility trim
and insert the panel into the receiving channel.
If the existing ceiling is not solid, install nailing strips to provide a
secure nailing base. Then install J-channel.
If the ceiling panels will run parallel to the ceiling joists, you will
have to install additional 1" x 3" wood furring nailing strips. Install
these nailing strips perpendicular to the ceiling joists, placing a
strip every 1" to 16".
Invert the J-channel and nail it to the underside of wood strips
along the perimeter of the ceiling area.
Install the panels as explained above.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Fig. 1
fascia
cap
Soffit
or coil
stock
You can use solid vinyl panels or perforated vinyl panels for soffit
installations. Perforated panels provide ventilation, which helps to
reduce heat buildup in the summer and ice dams in the winter. In
buildings with roof ridge vents, you should install ventilated soffit.
Check local building codes to determine the amount of ventilation
required. In high windload areas, you should also check local
building codes to determine if the application methods that are
required differ from those described below.
open truss
F-channel
soffit
16" to 24"
The procedure used to install soffit depends on the construction
of the eaves:
Fig. 2
• Open eaves—eaves with exposed rafters or trusses—are
typical of new construction. You will also have to use open eave
installation procedures if you have to remove damaged soffit at a
remodeling project.
open truss
F-channel
J-channel
• Enclosed eaves—eaves with soffit in place—are typical of
remodeling projects.
soffit
Installation over open eaves
16" to 24"
The first step in installing soffit is to install the proper receiving
channels. You have several options for receiving channels. You can
use accessories such as F-channel or J-channel, or you can make
channels using coil stock. The best approach is to select a method
that works most effectively with the construction techniques used
to create the eave. Examine figures 1 to 4 and find the one that
most closely resembles the construction methods used on your
particular project.
Fig. 3
fascia
cap
or coil
stock
open
rafter
F-channel
If no F-channel is available, J-channel can be modified to create
F-channel. Simply cut slots in the nail flange area where it would be
nailed to the wall. After cutting the nail flange, bend the flange back
and nail it to the wall. When installing Beaded T2" panels, use 3/8"
H-bar or 3/8" J-channel.
soffit
16" to 24"
Fig. 4
Installing receiving channels
add
nailing
strips
Install the receiving channels following the details shown in figures
1 to 4. Nail the channels every 16", positioning the nail in the
center of the slot. Do not nail tightly.
add
framing
If the eave span is greater than 16", you will have to install nailing
strips (as shown in figure 4) and install the receiving channels on
the nailing strips.
soffit
J-channel
16" to 24"
If the soffit will turn a corner, cut and install the channel so there is
1/4" for expansion at each of the adjoining walls.
To determine the maximum
permissible span, consult page 89
and local building codes.
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NOTE: If you don’t have the proper receiver for the soffit, you
can modify J-channel to create an F-receiver. Simply cut slots
in the nail flange area where the receiver will be nailed to the
wall, bend back the flange, and nail the flange to the wall.
Installing soffit
Measure from the wall to the fascia board. Then subtract 1/2" to
allow for expansion. Mark this dimension on a soffit panel and
cross cut the panel using a power circular saw with a reversed
fine-tooth blade. Cut one or two panels at a time, carefully
advancing the saw through the vinyl.
Insert the panel into the channel on the wall, then into the channel
at the fascia board. You may have to flex the panel slightly to insert
it into the second channel. Make certain the panel is perpendicular
to the wall, then nail. Depending on the installation method you’re
using, you’ll nail either to a nailing strip or to the fascia board.
Nailing schedule for soffit
Beaded T2
Fasten 8" to 12"
All other CertainTeed
soffit panels
Fasten every 16" to 24"
(as allowed by local building code)
fascia
If you’re nailing to the fascia board, use small-headed nails.
Drive the nail through the nail flange and “V” groove.
soffit panels
This is one of the rare instances when face nailing is permissible.
Once a soffit panel is face-nailed, it will expand only in one
direction—in this case, toward the receiving channel.
Be sure to leave space for the full expansion allowance in
the receiving channel.
fascia
cap or
coil stock
If you’re using a nailing strip, do not nail tightly—allow movement
for expansion.
nail into slot
Continue installing the panels by locking and nailing the soffit
in place. Make certain soffit panels are fully locked along their
entire length.
nail into “v”
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Turning a corner
To turn a corner, measure from the channel at the wall corner to
the channel at the corner of the fascia board. Subtract 1/4" for
expansion. If necessary, install nailing strips to provide backing
for the lineal. Cut and install soffit double channel lineal or H-bar.
Miter the corner soffit panels and install as described earlier.
soffit
H-bar
fascia
Completing the installation
To complete the installation, apply utility trim and fasten aluminum
fascia cap or formed aluminum coil stock with painted trim nails.
If you must face nail fascia, drill holes for the trim nails to allow for
expansion and to reduce denting of the aluminum.
miter soffit panels
Fig. 5
Installation over enclosed eaves
fascia cap or
coil stock
If the existing soffit is rotted or damaged, it’s best to remove it
completely before installing vinyl soffit. Then use the instructions
for open eaves.
enclosed
eave
nailing strip
If you’re installing perforated soffit panels and the existing soffit
doesn’t have openings for ventilation, cut an adequate number
of openings. Then complete the installation as described for
open eaves.
soffit
J-channel
The procedure used to install soffit over an enclosed eave is
almost identical to that used for an open eave. The major
difference is the installation of the J-channel. Determine the
method you’ll use to install soffit at the fascia board (see figures
5 and 6). When installing J-channel at either the wall or the fascia
board, nail the J-Channel every 12" to 16".
Fig. 6
enclosed
eave
soffit
Turning a corner
If the soffit is to turn a corner, cut and install J-channel so there
is 1/4" for expansion at each of the adjoining walls and adjoining
fascia boards. Miter the corner soffit panels and install as
described earlier.
J-channel
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Triple 3-1/3 Solid, InvisiVent
and Perimeter Soffit
Installation over open eaves
In most situations, T3-1/3 Solid, InvisiVent and Perimeter Soffit
should be installed like our standard soffit products. However,
when it is installed over open eaves, follow these installation
techniques.
Install receiving channels
There are two ways to install receiving channels for soffit. The best
approach is to select a method that works most effectively with
the construction techniques used to create the eave. Examine
the illustrations, and find the one that most closely resembles the
construction methods on your particular project.
fascia cap or
coil stock
open
rafter
Use either 3/4" J-channel or 3/4" F-channel, or make receiving
channels using coil stock. Install the receiving channels following
the details shown in the illustrations.
F-channel
soffit
Nail the channels every 12" to 16", positioning the nail in the center
of the slot. Do not nail tightly.
NOTE: If you are concerned about excessive insect infiltration
with InvisiVent or Perimeter Soffit, cover the opening with
corrosion-resistant mesh or other screening before installing
the soffit.
Install soffit
Nail the soffit every 16" or 24", depending upon local building
codes and stud spacing. T3-1/3 soffit will span up to 24" without
additional nailing strips.
Installation over existing soffit
When installing InvisiVent or Perimeter Soffit over an existing
solid wood soffit, you must cut openings into the existing soffit to
provide adequate airflow through the soffit. The goal is to have
at least 9 square inches of net free air per lineal foot of soffit.
Removing a center portion of the existing soffit will provide the
desired airflow.
add framing
soffit
J-channel
Using a saw, cut along the length of the existing soffit. Leave 2"
to 3" from both the wall and the fascia so that you will have
enough wood surface to securely fasten the soffit.
Remove the center portion of the existing soffit.
Install the soffit as described above.
NOTE: Leaving solid areas of existing soffit intact reduces
ventilation and must be considered when calculating
total ventilation.
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Vinyl Fascia
undersill trim
vinyl
fascia
cap
The wooden fascia board that encloses the front of an eave also
needs protection from the weather. To provide this protection, you
can install vinyl or aluminum fascia panels.
fascia
board
There are two procedures for installing vinyl fascia panels—one for
installations that include soffit, one for installations without soffit.
Installations without soffit
Nail undersill trim in place along the top of the fascia board.
nail in slot
opening
Before installing the panel, create tabs along the top edge
using a snap lock punch.
Hook the bottom of the fascia panel under the bottom of the
fascia board. Push the top edge into the undersill trim,
as shown, or behind drip edge.
Secure the panel to the bottom of the fascia board with white
trim nails. Fasten at nail slot openings only (see illustration).
Do not face nail fascia panel.
When overlapping fascia panels, first cut a notch in the
underlying panel. The notch should be 1/8" deep by 1-1/2" long.
Slip the notched panel into the adjacent panel (see illustration).
To turn a corner, you must first fabricate a corner piece.
1/8"
Cut a length of fascia panel so it extends 6" beyond the corner.
Mark a vertical line to indicate the position of the corner. Then cut
a 90° V-notch centered on the vertical line. Score it along the
vertical line and fold. Finally, create tabs along the upper edge
with a snap lock punch. The tabs must be raised on the outside
face of the panel.
1-1/2"
3/4"
Fit the panel on the corner, making sure to overlap the
preceding panel.
snap lock
punch
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For installations that include soffit
Nail the undersill trim in place along the top of the fascia board.
Then nail F-channel along the bottom outside surface of the fascia
board (shown).
The fascia panel will have to be rip cut to fit over the fascia board
and F-channel. To determine the width of the panel, measure from
the slot in the undersill trim to the bottom of the F-channel. Deduct
1/4" and cut (shown).
Use a snap lock punch to create tabs 1/8" below cut edge. Punch
tabs every 6", with the tabs raised on the outside face of the panel.
Install the panel by hooking the bottom of the fascia panel under
the F-channel and pushing the top into the undersill trim (shown).
undersill trim
Continue to install the fascia as described on the previous page.
fascia
board
Aluminum fascia
The techniques used to install aluminum fascia panels are similar to
those used with vinyl—with three exceptions.
There is no special undersill trim to use with aluminum fascia.
Aluminum fascia is made without nail slots, so you have to
pay attention to proper nailing techniques. And corners are
handled differently.
F-channel
Install drip edge, gutter, or all-purpose trim along the top of the
fascia board to receive the top edge of the fascia panel.
Slip the fascia panel in place. Then nail the underside of the panel.
Nail every 24", keeping the nails lined up with the soffit V-grooves.
measure
minus 1/4"
For best appearance, first drill a slightly oversized hole. Nail the
fascia with painted trim nails, using a light touch.
1/8"
6"
At the outside corners, bend a 1" flange at a 90° angle so it turns
the corner. Then cut the overlapping fascia at a 45° angle. Position
the panels and nail.
NOTE: If you need a piece of nonstandard size fascia, use a
portable brake to form it from aluminum trim sheet. Install
and nail using the same techniques you used with standard
fascia panels.
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Section 10 — Installing Specific CertainTeed Products
Cedar Impressions® Shingles and Shakes
Important
These products are not designed for roof application. They are
designed solely for installation on vertical surfaces.
The panels must be installed with nails over a solid substrate
with nail holding strength such as plywood, OSB, or existing
wood siding (minimum 7/16" thick). These products cannot be
installed with staples.
NOTE: Each panel must be nailed through the round hole in
the center of the nail hem to control the direction of normal
expansion and contraction. Do not drive center-pin nails tight.
Leave 1/8"–1/16" between the nail head and the panel to
allow the panel to move freely during normal expansion and
contraction. If you are installing a partial panel and the center
nail hole has been cut off, drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center
of the panels and nail through it.
When cutting Cedar Impressions siding, use a 40-tip carbide
blade mounted in the standard (not backwards) position.
Using this technique will reduce burring; it does not gum
up the saw; and the blade stays sharp longer.
Drainage Channels
Some building codes require that Cedar Impressions panels
be installed so that there is drainage space behind the panel.
This space will allow moisture to escape from the panels while
preventing water intrusion from the exterior. Information about
installing drainage channels is available at www.certainteed.com
Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures
As with any plastic siding, Cedar Impressions D7" Perfection
Shingles, T5" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles, D9" Staggered
Rough-Split Shakes, and D7" Straight-Edge Rough Split Shakes
expand and contract with changes in temperature. For this reason,
it is important that you space the panels according to the panel
temperature at the time of installation. Failure to provide the proper
spacing according to these temperature ranges may result in gaps
that are too large or too small, thereby creating the potential for
side locking tabs disengaging, panels distorting, or buckling.
Spacing of panels previously installed at a different temperature
does not require adjustment.
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NOTE: If two temperature cells on the PanelThermometer
show a color change, use the brighter color as the indicator.
™
Each panel has a patented PanelThermometer that displays
panel temperature and indicator lines that serve as guides for
proper spacing between the panels. The PanelThermometer is
located on the upper right-hand corner of the panel; the indicator
lines are on the upper left-hand corner.
Note that the panel temperature may change throughout the day.
Space the panels according to the panel temperature at the time
of installation.
The cells on the PanelThermometer will change color to indicate
the temperature of the panel.
panel temperature indicator lines
If the brightest cell is between the numbered temperature cells,
position the panel between the corresponding temperature
indicator lines. Example: If the Panel-Thermometer reads 65,
align the second panel to the 65 temperature indicator line on the
first panel. If the cell between the 65 and 100 is brighter, position
the panel between the 65 and 100 temperature indicator lines.
Panel Thermometer
Temperature Indicator Lines
Set to 0 line
0
30
Set to 30 line
65
Set to 65 line
100
130
160
Set to 100 line
Set to 130 line
Butt panels tight
“A”
D7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles
NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"–1/16"
between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to
move freely during normal expansion and contraction.
First course
Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions
Metal Starter.
If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost,
make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner.
An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use
J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge
of the panel.
Cut the end of the top course of the panel at indicator “A,”
which is located above the nail slots.
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Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking
leg of the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the
cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the
panel and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install
the Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.
Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round
center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue
nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one
™
1/4"
at each of the QuickReference Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8"
to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom of
movement during normal expansion and contraction.
Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and
next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the
starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel. Space the second
panel according to the panel temperature at the corresponding
temperature indicator lines.
PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions
over foam insulation, extra care needs to be
taken to verify that adequate space is left
between all nail heads and the panel.
quick reference nail mark indicators
Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole and
then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which overlaps
the previous panel’s left-end slot) so that the nail goes through
both panels’ nail slots simultaneously. Continue nailing the rest
of the panel as described earlier.
Continue to install the remaining panels of the first course as
described earlier.
1/4"
When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the
application as if the opening were not there.
Second course
Cut off the right side of the D7 shingle at indicator “B,”
which is located above the nail slots. Cut straight through
the panel. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail
the siding through this hole to control the direction of expansion
and contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot
located at the center of the panel.
Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg
of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the
cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the
panel and the corner for expansion.
drill 3/16" dia. hole at midpoint
of remaining panel
Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the
PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.
“B”
Continue to stagger the panel courses, alternating each time to
ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.
Installing under a window or opening
Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under
the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel.
Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the
panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into
the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16"
hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the
panel’s expansion and contraction.) Lock the panel into place.
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bottom of
receiving
channel
Installing over a window or opening
measure from
the locking tab
to the bottom
of the receiving
channel and
add 1/8
Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the locking
tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket.
Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using this
measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg. Cut the
panel to this dimension.
Install the cut panel by positioning the panel over the window and
into the receiving pocket. Lock the cut panel into the previous
course by pushing in and up. The cut edge should be 1/4" below
the top of the receiving pocket.
bottom of locking tab
Finishing the top course
See instructions on page 65.
back side of
panel to be cut
Installing Cedar Impressions
Mitered Cornerpost
bottom of
return leg
If you are planning to install Mitered Cornerposts, space the siding
panel 3” from the edge of the corner. Lock the first corner over
the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip. Nail the
corner through the top two nail slots.
NOTE: We recommend that your complete the first wall before
installing the cornerpost. Then install the cornerpost as you
install the courses of the second, adjacent wall.
Cut off the
top shingle
and cut
through
to form a
straight edge
T5" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles
Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures
See pages 94 to 95.
“A”
NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"–1/16"
between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to
move freely during normal expansion and contraction.
First course
Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions
Metal Starter Strip. If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered
Cornerposts, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of
the corner. An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions
is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom
edge of the panel.
1/4"
Create a straight edge on the right side of the panel by cutting
the top two shingles so they are flush with the bottom shingle.
Cut the end of the top course of the panel at indicator “A,”
which is located above the nail slots.
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Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking
leg of the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the
cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the
panel and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install
the Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.
quick reference nail mark indicators
Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round
center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue
nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one
™
at each of the QuickReference Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8"
to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom of
movement during normal expansion and contraction.
PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions
over foam insulation, extra care needs to be
taken to verify that adequate space is left
between all nail heads and the panel.
Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and
next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the
starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel. Space the second
panel according to the panel temperature at the corresponding
temperature indicator lines.
1/4"
Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole and
then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which overlaps
the previous panel’s left-end slot) so that the nail goes through
both panels’ nail slots simultaneously.
Continue installing the rest of the panel as described above.
When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the
application as if the opening were not there.
Second course
Cut off the right side of the T5 shingle at indicator “B,” which is
located above the nail slots, cutting straight through the panel.
Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail the siding
through this hole to control the direction of expansion and
contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot located
at the center of the panel.
drill 3/16" diameter hole at
midpoint of remaining panel
Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg
of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the
cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the
panel and the corner for expansion.
“B”
Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the
PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.
Continue to stagger the panel courses, alternating each time to
ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.
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Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerposts
If you are planning to install Mitered Cornerposts, space the siding
panel 3" from the edge of the corner. Lock the first corner over
the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip. Nail the
corner through the top two nail slots.
NOTE: We recommend that your complete the first wall before
installing the cornerpost. Then install the cornerpost as you
install the courses of the second, adjacent wall.
Installing under a window or opening
Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under
the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel.
Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the
panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into
the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16"
hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the
panel’s expansion and contraction.) Lock the panel into place.
bottom of
receiving
channel
Installing over a window or opening
measure from
the locking tab
to the bottom
of the receiving
channel and
add 1/8
Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the
locking tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving
pocket. Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and,
using this measurement, measure from the bottom of the return
leg. Cut the panel to this dimension.
Install the cut panel by positioning the panel over the window
and into the receiving pocket. Lock the cut panel into the
previous course by pushing in and up. The cut edge should be
1/4" below the top of the receiving pocket.
bottom of locking tab
back side of
panel to be cut
Finishing the top course
See instructions on page 65.
bottom of
return leg
If you are installing cornice molding with Mitered Cornerposts,
review the instructions for installing Cornice Cap with Mitered
Cornerpost (page 106 to 107).
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D9" Staggered Rough-Split Shakes
Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures
See pages 86 and 87.
Note: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"–1/16"
between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to
move freely during normal expansion and contraction.
“A”
First course
If you are planning to use mitered corners, you MUST use an
A + B cut pattern to start each course. This pattern ensures
proper fit into mitered corners.
Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions
Metal Starter. If you plan to use Mitered Cornerpost, make sure
the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner. An alternative
method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use J-channel in place
of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of the panel.
Create a straight edge on the right side of the panel by cutting the
top shingle so it is flush with the bottom shingle. Cut the end of
the top course of the panel at indicator “A,” which is located
above the nail slots.
1/4"
Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg
of the panel into the starter strip and slide panel into the corner-
post or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel
and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install the
Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.
PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions
over foam insulation, extra care needs to be
taken to verify that adequate space is left
between all nail heads and the panel.
Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round
center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue
nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one
1/4"
™
at each of the QuickReference Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8"
to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom of
movement during normal expansion and contraction.
Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and
next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the
starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel. Space the second
panel according to the panel temperature at the corresponding
temperature indicator lines.
Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole and
then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which overlaps
the previous panel’s left-end slot) so that the nail goes through
both panels’ nail slots simultaneously.
quick reference nail mark indicators
Continue nailing the rest of the panel.
Continue to install remaining panels of first course as described.
When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the
application as if the opening were not there.
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Second course
“B”
drill 3/16" dia. hole at midpoint
of remaining panel
Cut off of the right side of the D9 shakes at indicator “B,”
which is located above the nail slots, cutting straight through
the panel. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail
the siding through this hole to control the direction of expansion
and contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot
located at the center of the panel.
Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg
of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the
cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the
panel and the corner for expansion.
Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the
PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.
Continue to stagger panel courses, alternating each time to ensure
a random shingle pattern up the wall.
Installing under a window or opening
Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under
the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel.
Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the
panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into
the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16"
hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the
panel’s expansion and contraction.)
Lock the panel into place.
Installing over a window or opening
bottom of
receiving channel
measure from
the locking tab
to the bottom
of the receiving
channel and
add 1/8”
Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the locking
tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket.
Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using this
measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg. Cut the
panel to this dimension.
Install the cut panel by positioning the panel over the window
and into the receiving pocket. Lock the cut panel into the previous
course by pushing in and up. The cut edge should be 1/4"
below the top of the receiving pocket.
Finishing the top course
back side of
panel to be cut
See instructions on page 65.
Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost
bottom of
return leg
Install the siding on both sides of the wall before you install the
cornerpost. Space the siding 3" from the edge of the corner. The
corners are designed to fit over the panels that are used to start a
new course. If you have followed the A + B cut pattern, the mitered
cornerpost will fit easily over the panels. Lock the first corner over
the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip. The top
of the corner must be in line with the top of the panel. Nail the
corner through the top two nail slots.
The right-side corner gap has cut marks at 1/8" increments; they
allow you to fit the corner to the different panel heights you may
encounter as you finish a course. Trim the corner gap as needed
to fit the panel.
trim as
needed to
fit corner
To finish the top of the cornerpost with cornice molding
and cornice cap, see page 106 to 107.
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D7" Straight Edge Rough-Split Shakes
Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures
See pages 94 and 95.
“A”
NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"–1/16"
between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to
move freely during normal expansion and contraction.
First course
Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions
Metal Starter.
If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost, make
sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of the corner.
An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions is to use
J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of
the panel.
If you are planning to use mitered corners, you MUST use an
A + B cut pattern to start each course. This pattern ensures proper
fit into mitered corners.
1/4"
Cut the end of the top course of the panel at indicator “A”
which is located above the nail slots.
Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking
leg of the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the
cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the
panel and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install
the Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.
quick reference
nail mark indicators
Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round
center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue
nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one
™
at each of the QuickReference Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8"
to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom of
movement during normal expansion and contraction.
PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions
over foam insulation, extra care needs to be
taken to verify that adequate space is left
between all nail heads and the panel.
Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and
next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the
starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel, as shown. Space
the second panel according to the panel temperature at the
corresponding temperature indicator lines.
1/4"
Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole and
then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which overlaps
the previous panel’s left-end slot) so that the nail goes through
both panels’ nail slots simultaneously. Continue nailing the rest of
the panel as described above.
Continue to install remaining panels of first course as
described above.
When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the
application as if the opening were not there.
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drill 3/16" diameter hole at
midpoint of remaining panel
Second course
Cut off the right side of the D7 shakes at indicator “B,” which is
located above the nail slots, cutting straight through the panel.
Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail the siding
through this hole to control the direction of expansion and
contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot located
at the center of the panel.
“B”
Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg
of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the
cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the
panel and the corner for expansion.
PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions
over foam insulation, extra care needs to be
taken to verify that adequate space is left
between all nail heads and the panel.
Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the
PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.
Continue to stagger the panel courses, alternating each time
to ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.
Installing under a window or opening
Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under
the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel.
Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the
panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into
the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16"
hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the
panel’s expansion and contraction.)
Lock the panel into place.
bottom of
Installing over a window or opening
measure from
receiving
the locking tab
channel
Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the locking
tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket.
Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using this
measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg.
to the bottom
of the receiving
channel and
add 1/8"
Cut the panel to this dimension. Install the cut panel by positioning
the panel over the window and into the receiving pocket. Lock the
cut panel into the previous course by pushing in and up. The cut
edge should be 1/4" below the top of the receiving pocket.
Finishing the top course
bottom of
locking tab
See instructions on page 65.
Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost
back side of
panel to be cut
If you are planning to install Mitered Cornerposts, space the siding
panel 3" from the edge of the corner. Lock the first corner over
the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter strip.
Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.
bottom of
return leg
NOTE: We recommend that your complete the first wall before
installing the cornerpost. Then install the cornerpost as you
install the courses of the second, adjacent wall.
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“A”
D7" Staggered Perfection Shingles
Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures
See pages 94 and 95.
Note: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"–1/16"
between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to
move freely during normal expansion and contraction.
First course
If you are planning to use mitered corners, you MUST use an
A + B cut pattern to start each course. This pattern ensures
proper fit into mitered corners.
Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions
Metal Starter. If you plan to use Cedar Impressions Mitered
Cornerpost, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge of
the corner. An alternative method of starting Cedar Impressions
is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom
edge of the panel.
1/4"
Cut off the end of the top course of the panel at indicator “A,”
which is located above the nail slots.
Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg
of the panel into the starter strip and slide panel into the corner-
post or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel
and the corner for expansion. If you are planning to install the
Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel 3" from the corner.
quick reference nail mark indicators
Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round
center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue
nailing the panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot and one
™
at each of the QuickReference Nail Mark Indicators. Leave 1/8"
PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions
over foam insulation, extra care needs to be
taken to verify that adequate space is left
between all nail heads and the panel.
to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to allow freedom
of movement during normal expansion and contraction.
Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip and
next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel into the
starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel, as shown. Space
the second panel according to the panel temperature at the
corresponding temperature indicator lines.
1/4"
Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole and
then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which overlaps
the previous panel’s left-end slot) so that the nail goes through
both panels’ nail slots simultaneously. Continue nailing the rest of
the panel using the procedure outlined above.
Continue to install remaining panels of the first course as
described earlier.
When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the
application as if the opening were not there.
drill 3/16" dia. hole at
midpoint of remaining pane
Second course
Cut off the right side of the D7 shingle at indicator “B,” which is
located above the nail slots, cutting straight through the panel.
Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail the siding
through this hole to control the direction of expansion and
contraction. Another option is to nail each end of a nail slot
located at the center of the panel.
“B”
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Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking leg
of the panel into the previous course and slide the panel into the
cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the
panel and the corner for expansion.
Set the spacing of the remaining panels using the
PanelThermometer and temperature indicator lines.
Continue to stagger panel courses, alternating each time to ensure
a random shingle pattern up the wall.
Installing under a window or opening
bottom of
receiving channel
measure from
the locking tab
to the bottom
of the receiving
channel and
add 1/8"
Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under
the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel.
Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the
panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into
the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16"
hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the
panel’s expansion and contraction.) Lock the panel into place.
Installing over a window or opening
bottom of
locking tab
Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the locking
tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving pocket.
Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over and, using
this measurement, measure from the bottom of the return leg.
back side of
panel to be cut
Cut the panel to this dimension. Install the cut panel by positioning
the panel over the window and into the receiving pocket. Lock the
cut panel into the previous course by pushing in and up. The cut
edge should be 1/4" below the top of the receiving pocket.
bottom of
return leg
Finishing the top course
cornice receiver
See instructions on page 65.
1/4"
Installing Cedar Impressions Mitered Cornerpost
cornice
molding
Install the siding on both sides of the wall before you install the
cornerpost. Space the siding 3" from the edge of the corner.
The corners are designed to fit over the panels that are used to
start a new course. If you have followed the A + B cut pattern,
the mitered cornerpost will fit easily over the panel. Lock the first
corner over the siding, making sure it also locks into the starter
strip. The top of the corner must be in line with the top of the
panel. Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.
1/4"
Cedar Impressions panel
The right-side corner gap has cut marks at 1/8" increments.
They allow you to fit the corner to the different butt heights you
may encounter as you finish a course. Trim the corner gap as
needed to fit the panel.
trim as
needed to
fit corner
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Cornice Cap with Cedar Impressions
Mitered Cornerpost
General
Before applying siding and accessories, make certain the substrate
is watertight. In order to be properly protected from precipitation,
the substrate may need to be flashed to shed water to the
exterior. The siding and accessories alone are not meant to
be a watertight barrier.
Cedar Impressions panels are installed from the right to the left.
You can install Cedar Impressions Mitered Corners at three
different times:
1. As you install courses up one side of the wall—CertainTeed’s
recommended method
2. As you install both sides of the wall at the same time—allowing
you to make small corrections as you move up the wall
3. As you move up the second, adjacent wall after you have
installed all the panels on one side of the wall—preferred by
some installers
The first method is described below.
Cedar Impressions outside corner installation
Install the first Cedar Impressions panel 3" from the edge of the
outside wall.
Hook the corner piece over the siding, making sure it engages into
the starter strip and nail through the top two holes.
Continue installing corner pieces as you move up the wall.
When you reach the top panel, cut to length and nail with
color-matched finish nails.
If you end on an outside corner that has a cornerpost installed,
you need to measure from the edge of the panel to the edge
of the cornerpost. Add 1-1/2" to this dimension; it will be the
panel length.
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Angle the panel into the cornerpost and slide to the left until the
side tabs clear. Next, slide the panel to the right until you have the
correct temperature marks on the panel lined up.
cornice receiver
Install the top section of Mitered Cornerpost. Leave 1/4" between
the top corner piece and the cornice receiver.
NOTE: Depending upon the area of the D9 Staggered
Rough-Split panel you finish with, you may have to install
furring behind the cornice receiver to accommodate the
thickness of the Rough-Split panel.
1/4" from the edge
Snap the cornice molding into the cornice receiver. The cornice
molding should be 1/4" from the edge of the wall.
cornice cap
Hook the top of the cornice cap over the end of the cornice
moldings and snap the bottom into place. Alternately, you can
slide the cornice cap over one of the cornice moldings until the
other cornice molding can be inserted.
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Cedar Impressions Inside Cornerpost
Siding and accessories alone are not meant to be a watertight
barrier. Before applying siding and accessories, make certain
the substrate is watertight. Flash the substrate so that it sheds
water outside the siding.
Cedar Impressions panels are installed from right to left. If the
application situation allows, install both wall sides at the corner
at the same time. This will allow you to make small corrections
to the Inside Cornerpost installation as you move up the wall.
Installing Cedar Impressions Inside Cornerpost
When installing Inside Cornerposts, be sure to run Cedar
Impressions Metal Starter to the inside corner.
Install Cedar Impressions panels from right to left. Install the Cedar
Impressions panels into the inside corners. Leave a 3" gap on each
side of the corner.
Once the panel has been fastened, hook the Cornerpost over the
siding, making sure it is locked into the starter strip. Nail through
the top two holes of the Cornerpost. Continue installing the
Cornerpost as you move up the wall.
When you reach the top panel, cut the Cornerpost to length and
nail it with a color-matched finish nail.
If the Inside Cornerpost is installed before the siding, you will have
to cut the Cedar Impressions panel to fit.
Measure from the edge of the last installed panel to the edge of the
Cornerpost. Add 1-1/4" to this dimension, and cut the panel
to length.
Angle the panel under the Cornerpost and slide it to the left until
the side tabs clear. Then slide the panel to the right until the correct
temperature marks on the panel are lined up.
Fasten the panel to the wall.
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Cedar Impressions
Bay Window Cornerposts
When installing Bay Window Cornerposts, be sure to run
Cedar Impressions Metal Starter to both corners, and install
Cedar Impressions panels from right to left.
Install the Cedar Impressions panels into both the inside and
outside cornerposts. Leave a 2.5" gap on each side of the corner.
Once the panel has been fastened, hook the cornerposts over
the siding, making sure they are locked into the starter strip.
Nail through the top two holes of the Cornerpost.
Continue installing the Cornerpost as you move up the wall.
When you reach the top panel, cut the Cornerpost to length
and nail it with a color matched finish nail.
If the Cornerposts are installed before the siding, you will have to
cut the Cedar Impressions panel to fit. To do this, measure from
the edge of the last installed panel to the edge of the Cornerpost.
Add 1-1/4" to this dimension, and cut the panel to length. Angle
the panel under the Cornerpost and slide it to the left until the
side tabs clear. Then slide the panel to the right until the correct
temperature marks on the panel are lined up. Fasten the panel to
the wall.
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Half-Round Shingles
Important
This product is not designed for roof application. It is designed
solely for installation on vertical surfaces.
Panels must be installed with nails over a solid substrate with
nail holding strength such as plywood, OSB, or existing wood
siding (minimum 7⁄16" thick). This product cannot be installed
with staples.
NOTE: Each panel must be nailed through the round hole in
the center of the nail hem to control the direction of normal
expansion and contraction. If you are installing a partial panel
and the center nail hole has been cut off, drill a 3/16" hole in
the upper center of the panel, and nail through it.
When cutting Cedar Impressions siding, use a 40-tip carbide blade
mounted in the standard (not backwards) position. Using this
technique will reduce burring; it does not gum up the saw; and the
blade stays sharp longer.
panel
temperature
indicator
marks
Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures
As with any plastic siding, Cedar Impressions expands and
contracts with changes in temperature. For this reason, it is
important that you space the panels according to the panel
temperature at the time of installation. Failure to provide the
proper spacing according to these temperature ranges may
result in gaps that are too large or too small, thereby creating
the potential for side lock tabs disengaging, panel distortion,
or buckling. Spacing of panels previously installed at a different
temperature does not require adjustment.
use these marks on installed panels
for quick alignment of second
course—use temperature indicators
for final panel adjustments
Each panel has indicator lines that serve as guides for proper
spacing between the panels. The indicator lines are on the upper
left-hand corner. Before you install Half-Round Shingles, make
sure the panels are acclimated to the ambient temperature.
As the ambient temperature changes during the day, it may be
necessary to adjust the panel spacing to reflect the change in the
panel temperature.
Space the panels according to the panel temperature at the
time of installation.
Panel Temperature
30° to 40°
Temperature Indicator Lines
Set to 30 line
Note: Many installers use small
infrared thermometers to determine
panel temperatures.
41° to 55°
Set halfway between 30 and 65 lines
Set to 65 line
56° to 75°
76° to 90°
Set halfway between 65 and 100 lines
Set to 100 line
91° to 100°
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illustration 1a
illustration 1b
NOTE: Cedar Impressions Half Round Shingles are installed
from left to right.
First course
Strike a level line around the house and install Cedar Impressions
Metal Starter (see illustration 1a). An alternative method of starting
Half-Rounds is to use J-channel in place of starter strip, to receive
the bottom edge of the panel (see illustration 1b). To use this
method, the rounded portion of the panel must be removed below
the locking leg to create a continuous straight edge.
1/4"
2-5/8"
NOTE: When using a J-channel as a starter, leave 1/4"
between the siding panel and pocket.
Remove 2-5/8" from the left side of the upper panel course,
leaving a 90° left side edge.
Starting on the left side of the wall, hook the bottom edge of the
panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the cornerpost
or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between the panel and the
inside wall of the cornerpost for expansion.
Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round
center hole of the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Then fasten
the rest of the panel by nailing through the centers of the remaining
nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 16" on center. Provide 1/8"
to 1/16" between the nail head and the panel to allow freedom of
movement during normal expansion and contraction. Failure to
provide this space between the nail head and the panel will cause
the panel to buckle. Do not put a nail into the far right slot until the
overlapping panel is positioned for installation.
PRO TIP: When installing Cedar Impressions
over foam insulation, extra care needs to be
taken to verify that adequate space is left
between all nail heads and the panel.
Install the next panel by using a dual motion of hooking into the
starter strip and sliding over the previous panel. This will ensure a
proper lap.
Position the overlapping panel so that there is 1/8" to 1/4"
between the panels, depending on the panel temperature at
time of installation. The spacing may appear larger or smaller
than the spaces between the shingles on the panel. This is normal
and necessary in order to allow for expansion and contraction.
1/4"
Nail in the center of the far left slot of the overlapping panel.
always secure first
using center pin hole
Continue to install the remaining panels of the first course as
described above.
When a window or doorway breaks a course, continue the
application as if the opening were not there.
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drill 3/16"
Second course
diameter hole
at midpoint of
remaining panel
Remove 13-1/4" of the left side measured from the upper panel,
cutting straight through the lower panel course. (Note the small
mark on the face of the panel.) Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of
the nail hem and nail the siding through this hole to control the
direction of expansion and contraction.
13-1/4"
NOTE: The 13-1/4" spacing provides the farthest separation
of overlapping courses.
For easier application of complete panels, 1/4" vertical lines
have been added to the top edge of the nail flange for quick
initial alignment. Simply align the right edge of the upper panel
with one of the vertical alignment marks on the lower course.
However, always use the temperature indicator marks on the
right side of the upper panels for final alignment.
Cedar Impressions Half-Rounds may also be installed by
sliding the right panel up while ensuring the side lock tabs
engage with the flange of the left panel. This method is useful
when installing panels into cornerposts and J-channel around
windows and doors.
Continue to stagger the panel courses, alternating each time to
ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.
side locking tabs
Installing under a window or opening
Install Cedar Impressions undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit under
the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the upper center of the panel.
Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside of the
panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the panel into
the previous course, and center nail the siding through the 3/16"
hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls the direction of the
panel’s expansion and contraction.) Lock the panel into place.
Installing over a window or opening
To install siding over a window, measure from the lock tab of the
course below the window top to the top of the window. Add 3/4".
Cut the panel to this dimension. This will allow the panel to be
lowered down far enough to engage the locking tabs of the lower
panel. After it is positioned into the locked position, the cut edge
will still be 1/4" below the top of the J-channel.
Finishing the top course
See instructions on page 65.
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Half-Round Shingles in Gable Ends
NOTE: The following instructions focus on a gable installation.
They also are geared towards an enclosed gable, started with
a J-channel. The Half-Round can also be started with starter
strip. This is an example only!
gable
height
Installing receiving channels
Frame the border area with 3/4" J-channel. Nail in place loosely.
Miter joints accordingly.
NOTE: You also can use 3-1/2" or 5" lineals to frame gable
ends and gable base. For instructions on cutting lineals for
peaks, see “Gable Trim” on page 67.
Cut enough J-channel to span the base of the gable; then secure
it in place.
NOTE: The instructions below show how to create a gable
installation with a complete, centered Half-Round at the peak.
Making the starter course
Gable installations properly terminate with a single round at the
peak. To create this effect, you usually have to adjust the height
of the starter course.
5-1/2"
To determine the height of the starter course, calculate the number
of rows required to complete the gable.
Use the following formula:
Gable height (inches) ÷ 12.5 (face exposure) = courses required
top of gap
5-1/2"
NOTE: Gable height is measured from inside the horizontal
receiving channel to the peak (allowing 1/4" at top and
bottom for expansion).
For example, with a 68" gable height, the calculations would be
68 ÷ 12.5" = 5 with a remainder of 0.44. This means you would
need 5 full courses plus 0.44 x 12.5" (face exposure of panel) =
5.5" measured from the top edge of the gap on the upper course
(illustrated). This is the visible height for your starter course.
The visible height is the vertical dimension of the panel you’ll
see below the first full row of rounds.
cut
remove
Once you’ve determined the visible height of the starter course,
mark this dimension on a Half-Round Shingle panel. Measure from
the top of the gap on the upper course (illustrated). Draw a cutting
line the entire length of panel.
Cut and use the top section, which contains the locks, as your
starter course. Cut enough panels to span the base of the gable.
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Hanging the starter course
To end up with a single “round” centered at the peak of the gable,
you must properly locate the first starter panel.
9-3/8"
5-1/2"
Begin by marking a vertical plumb line from the peak.
Then measure and mark the finished height line. In our example,
using a starter course with a 5-1/2" visible height, the finished
height is 9-3/8".
With your ruler inserted into the pocket of the lower J-channel,
mark a line on the substrate equal to the finished height (remember
to allow 1/4" for expansion). Repeat at several points along the
gable base. Use these marks to strike a horizontal level line that will
guide the nailing of the starter course.
finished
height line
plumb
line
The point where the plumb line and the horizontal level line
intersect marks the starting point for hanging the first starter
course panel (if the first starter panel intersects the plumb line).
9-3/8"
Determine whether you will center a “scallop” or a “V” at the
starting point. This decision is based on the number of courses
required to complete the gable.
remainder of
“scallop”
The rule of thumb is:
gap on “v”
Center an upper scallop if the initial calculations had less than 0.5
courses remaining (0.44 in our example).
30ºF
65ºF
100ºF
Center the gap or “V” of the upper course if more than 0.5 courses
remained. (In our example we require 5.44 courses, so we would
center on a scallop.)
More than one panel will probably be required to reach the plumb
line. Measure from the plumb line into the pocket receiving channel
(leaving 1/4" for expansion) as illustrated at left.
plumb
line
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If you require an odd number of courses (i.e. five full courses plus
starting course), subtract 8" from the distance from the plumb line
to the left receiving pocket (remember to allow 1/4" for expansion).
If you require an even number of courses (i.e. 6 full courses plus
starting course), subtract 18-1/2" from the dimension.
plumb
line
NOTE: The 8" and 18-1/2" dimensions ensure having a full
centered scallop at the topmost part of the gable.
For example: If the measurement required to the plumb line (minus
8" for an odd number of full courses) is 152", then 152"÷ 32" = 4
full panels plus 0.75% of one panel or 24" measured from the edge
of the texture on the right side (temperature indicator side).
152"
8"
24”
Create a cutting guide as described earlier for gable applications
and trim the first panel (for this example) at 24". Continue to hang
the remaining starter course strips, remembering to center nail first.
Installing first full panel
mark
cut for roof slope
It is important to stagger the panels, as described in this section.
The easiest way to determine the length of panel required is to
measure from the alignment line on the nail flange of the starter
panel to the edge of the roof slope (see illustration).
length of
first panel
Using this measurement, drill a hole centered in the remaining nail
flange as described earlier. Lock the first full exposure panel to the
starter course after trimming for roof slope.
second
alignment
mark
After locking panel in place, center pin the panel.
Lapping remaining panels
The remaining panels to be installed must be lapped in accordance
with the current temperature.
line represents the bottom of
the first full course of scallops
Repeat this process for the entire course.
At the end of each course, trim panels to the gable angle.
Be sure to allow for expansion at the J-channels.
length of
first panel
Installing the last round
When you reach the peak, trim the last round to the desired height
by removing the locks. Then face nail to the substrate, using a
color-matched finishing nail.
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Cedar Impressions on a Steep Rake
A solid nailable substrate is required for this product. The substrate
must have the nail holding equivalent of a 3/4" penetration of a nail
into solid wood.
hand punch slots
16" from center
and nail
drill and
center nail
Installing Cedar Impressions on
Non-vertical Walls
Cedar Impressions must never be used as a roofing material.
However, the panels can be used on non-vertical applications that
meet the following conditions:
no less
than 70°
30'
• The non-vertical wall must be decorative and not functional.
• The non-vertical wall must not be greater than 20° off the
vertical (no less than a 70° angle).
• The top of the wall cannot be higher than 30' above grade.
Because of different wind-load requirements, your local
building code may stipulate a lower height. Use the lesser
of the two heights.
Before you install Cedar Impressions on a non-vertical wall, install
a non-binding, self-adhering underlayment or waterproofing
membrane. Cap the uppermost edge of the top course of siding to
prevent water from getting behind the siding. Flash all accessories
to shed water away from the substrate. Siding alone is not meant
to be a watertight barrier.
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Starting Cedar Impressions with Lineals
over Horizontal Siding
Cedar Impressions perfection
shingle or half-round shingle with
lower round removed
Cedar Impressions panel is
inserted into the pocket of the
lineal, making sure to leave 1/4"
for downward movement
5" lineal
1/4"
flashing
Cedar Impressions
4" metal starter strip
dual undersill trim
butt dual
undersill trim
upward against
bottom of
hand-punched horizontal
siding (locking area has been
removed); siding panel locks
into dual undersill trim
flashing
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
cut away and
discard
Starting Cedar Impressions Over
Horizontal Siding
NOTE: Half-Round Shingles are shown, but this method also
works for Perfection Shingles.
hand
punch
slots
Cut away the nail flange and discard.
Hand punch nail slots into the panel face and secure the panel.
Secure Cedar Impressions 4" Metal Starter after hand punching
and securing the siding piece.
NOTE: Only the Metal Starter may be used with
Cedar Impressions.
center nail in slot of
Cedar Impressions
metal starter
Lock the Cedar Impressions panels into the starter strip and
secure it.
final
assembly
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CertainTeed Vinyl Siding Installation Guide
Application of Half-Round Shingle
Under Soffit
The amount of trimming required for a Cedar Impressions Half-
Round Shingle panel determines the accessory piece required to
receive it. See the descriptions below.
Perfection Shingles do not have these restrictions.
removal of nail flange up to the locking leg: requires
drilling a new center hole, and punching a slot on both
ends (16" from center); this allows for expansion
removal of 1-1/8" or more of the nail flange: use cornice
receiver or F-channel and cornice molding—drill a new
center hole and punch a slot on both ends
(16" from center)
removal of 1-1/2" or more: use either J-channel or
cornice receiver and cornice molding—drill a new center
hole, and punch a slot on both ends (16" from center)
removal of 3" or more: use standard 3/4" pocket
J-channel or cornice receiver and cornice molding
combinations—drill a new center hole, and punch a
slot on both ends (16" from center)
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Special Effects with Cedar Impressions
Another look can be achieved by using the lower locking tabs.
First, remove the protective material from the sides of the tabs
(see left). Lock the upper panel into the tab and secure.
NOTE: This method can also be used to finish the top course
of shingles.
Perfection Shingles can also be mixed within Half-Round Shingles
applications as shown below left.
To do this, the “flash” material must be removed from the lower
tabs on the face of the Half-Round panels with a utility knife
(as shown above). The resulting lock allows the next course
of Half-Rounds to be secured.
Lock Perfection Shingles into newly created lock tabs and secure.
Cedar Impressions Half-Round Shingles with Perfection Shingles.
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Replacing a Damaged Cedar Impressions
Panel with the Repair Kit (Option 1)
cam clip
Cam clips and snap rivets are included in the kit.
You will also need a hammer, utility knife, chisel, and “wonder bar”
or “roof snake bar.”
snap rivet
roof snake bar
wonder bar
Removing the damaged panel
Cut a large rectangle out of the damaged panel. Cut or chisel
through the sides of the panel and remove the lower half.
Pry the nails out of the nail hem of the damaged panel.
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NOTE: To eliminate interference from the panel above the
damaged panel, use two roofing nails as a wedge to prop up
the upper panel.
Push up on the panel to unlock it, and then pull down to
remove the damaged panel.
Preparing the new panel
Cut off all top locking tabs.
Flip the panel over and cut 1/8" off the side locking tabs.
NOTE: For Half-Round Shingles, notch the side locking tab on
a 45˚ angle.
NOTE: On the D9" Staggered Rough-Split Shakes and T5"
Straight Edge Perfection Shingles panels, there are 7 locking
tabs, but there are only 6 cam clips per kit. Place one cam clip
in the nail slot above each of the end locking tabs, working
towards the middle of the panel using all 6 clips. Leave one
locking tab in the middle of the panel without the cam clip.
NOTE: For Half-Round Shingles install four cam clips in nail
slot locations (left to right) 3, 13, 18, and 28.
You must install the cam clip and the snap rivet at the same time.
Installing the rivet before the clip may cause the rivet to mushroom
and prevent it from keeping the cam clip securely in place.
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Push on the back button of the snap rivet to secure the clip to the
panel. Repeat over each locking tab area.
Place the heavier part of the cam clip up against the cam.
While applying pressure to the top panel, pull down on the
thinner end of the clip.
Installing the new panel
Slide the left side of the new panel into the side locking tabs.
To engage the right side tabs into the existing panel, flex the
panel out from the center. As you raise the new panel into
position, make sure the bottom lip of the panel engages the
locking tabs on the panel below.
Lift up the panel above the new panel far enough to place the
nails into the old nail holes.
Using your wonder bar or roof snake bar, drive the nails in by
placing the bar on the nail head and hitting the bar with a hammer.
Place the heavier part of the cam clip up against the cam. While
applying pressure to the top panel, pull down on the thinner end
of the clip. Make sure each cam clip engages the lip of the panel
above it. Keep pulling down on the cam cords until they break off.
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Replacing a Damaged Cedar Impressions
Panel (Option 2)
You will need a hammer, wood chisel, and hacksaw or utility knife.
Use a wood chisel to remove the lock tabs on the top side of
the damaged panel. Lock tabs can be located by using the
chisel to slightly lift the panel locked into the upper portion
of the damaged panel.
After locating the lock tabs, place the bevel of the chisel down
against the face of the damaged panel; use a hammer and
the chisel to knock off the lock tabs of the damaged panel.
Then remove the nails on the damaged panel, and pull the
panel down and remove it.
locate lock tab
with chisel tip
and remove
On the replacement panel, use a hacksaw or utility knife to cut the
lock tabs to half their original length. Slide the replacement panel
back into the position of the removed damaged panel.
Use the hammer handle to put pressure against the bottom butt
of the replacement panel to force pressure upward enough that
the replacement panel will engage with the panel above.
Drill a nail hole in the center of the top portion of the replacement
panel. Then use a colored trim nail to control the direction of
expansion of the replacement.
NOTE: While this method provides an aesthetically acceptable
replacement, it does not actually secure the panel to the wall.
The only way to secure a replacement panel with nails is to
remove the siding from the top of the wall down until the
damaged panel can be removed.
Cedar Impressions panel (upper course)
colored trim nail
butt leg of upper Cedar
Impressions panel
Cedar Impressions panel
(lower course)
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Northwoods S7" and S9" Shakes
Overview
The installation of a Northwoods Shakes or Shingles panel is
unique in that the lap joint is hidden in the ribs between the shake
or shingle pattern. Positioning the laps in the rib area requires that
special installation procedures be followed to maintain product
performance and aesthetics.
Panels must be installed from right to left. The left panel will overlap
the right panel.
Factory laps
All lap joints are cut at a predetermined point on the panel during
the manufacturing process. All male laps must be factory cut.
Female laps may be field cut using the gap. However, do not cut
along the edge of the gap; leave 3/16" of the gap for the overlap.
NOTE: Do not drive center-pin nails tight. Leave 1/8"–1/16"
between the nail head and the panel to allow the panel to
move freely during normal expansion and contraction.
center pin mark
Center pinning
Vinyl siding expands and contracts as the temperature of the panel
changes. To maintain the proper rib width at the lap joint, you will
have to limit the movement of the panels. To do this, you must
center pin each panel. Center pinning prevents the rib width at
the lap joint from becoming too wide or too narrow.
Center pin each panel regardless of length
Install the siding according to one of the following methods,
depending on whether the substrate is or is not fully nailable.
NOTE: The siding must be applied over a rigid sheathing that
provides a smooth, flat surface or an underlayment (such as
wood, wood composition, rigid foam or fiber sheathing) that
is no more than 1" thick. Do not apply siding directly to studs.
See pages 21 to 26 for additional information about proper
sheathing and substrates.
Lock the right side panel into place on the starter strip. Allow room
for expansion and contraction in all accessory pockets:
• 1/4" if the ambient temperature is above 40° F.
• 3/8" if the ambient temperature is below 40° F.
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Locate the mark at the center of the panel. Use the nailing slot
closest to this mark. Center pin the panel in this location using
one of the following options:
1. Install a nail on both ends of the same nail slot.
2. Drill a 3/16" diameter hole through the nail hem and substrate,
and place a single fastener through this newly
drilled hole.
Position nails in the center of the remaining slots, 16" apart. Leave
adequate room between the fastener head and the nail flange for
expansion and contraction (approximately 1/16" to 1/8").
Do not hard nail these fasteners.
3/16"
temperature marks
Install the next panel to the left of the installed panel. Lap this panel
over the installed panel, positioning the right edge of the panel to
the appropriate temperature mark, which is located in the factory
notch area.
If the ambient temperature is less than 45°F, lap the panel to the
first (30°) mark.
30° 65° 100°
If the ambient temperature is between 45°F to 80°F, lap the panel
to the second (65°) mark.
If the ambient temperature is greater than 80°F, lap the panel to
the third (100°) mark.
2' min.
offset
Fasten the panel according to the procedure described earlier.
Continue the first course of siding, remembering to center pin
every panel.
Start the next course of siding from the right side, repeating the
earlier steps. Offset the laps from course to course a minimum
of 2 feet.
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Installing CedarBoards Insulated Siding
CedarBoards Insulated Siding will help even out wall surfaces.
However, to minimize extremes in the peaks and valleys of uneven
walls, you may have to repair the underlayment. Make sure
the substrate is smooth, flat, and weathertight. If the surface is
significantly uneven, apply 1/4" (minimum) foam sheathing before
installing CedarBoards Siding. If the wall surface is smooth, use
standard underlayment practices.
Horizontal Siding
The key to creating a visually attractive installation is to lap
away from areas where people normally walk or gather.
For example, on the front wall, work from the corners to the
entrance door (so overlaps face away from door).
On side walls, work from the rear corners toward the front. This
approach minimizes the effect of lapping and produces the best
appearance. Keep lap appearance in mind throughout installation.
Starter strips
Insulated siding is thicker than hollow vinyl siding. To accom-
modate the 1-1/4" thickness, we recommend that you use the
CedarBoards starter strip.
3"
An alternative method of starting CedarBoards is to use 1-1/4"
J-Channel in place of starter strip to receive the bottom edge of
the panel.
Fastening
Use 2" (minimum) corrosion-resistant nails to penetrate the wood
substrate at least 3/4". Drive the nails until there is 1/16" between
the nail head and the nail flange.
1-1/4"
Center the nail in the slot and drive the nail straight in. Do not drive
nails at an angle. Space nails 16" o.c.
STUDfinder Installation
™
The STUDfinder Installation System combines precisely
engineered nail slot locations with graphics to create a siding
panel that is designed to help ensure quick, accurate and secure
installation. The nail slots are positioned 16" on center to allow for
alignment with studs, with STUDfinder graphics centered directly
under each nail slot.
Locate the first stud and fasten in the center of the nail slot.
Ensure that nail penetration is at least 3/4" into framing members
to comply with ASTM D4756 (specification for vinyl siding
installation). Notice which STUDfinder letter appears below the slot.
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Go to the next repeat of the letter to find the next stud.
For example, if your first stud is at “T,” so will the succeeding
studs in 16" o.c. applications (every 10th slot). When installing
CedarBoards XL 16'8" panels, the succeeding studs are at
every 8th slot.
When you apply the next panel, adjust the overlap, as necessary
to line up with studs and repeat the steps above.
NOTE: CedarBoards panels must overlap 1" to 1-1/2".
Consequently, the overlapping panels may not use the
same letter as your initial panel.
Fitting into trim pieces
Around windows, doors, and other openings, use 1-1/4" Cedar-
Boards accessories. When the outside temperature is higher than
40° F, allow a 1/4" gap between the siding and the trim. When the
temperature is less than 40°F, leave a 3/8" gap. For CedarBoards
XL, allow a 3/8" gap between the siding and the trim when the
outside temperature is above 40°F; 1/2" when the temperature is
below 40°F.
Around windows and doors
Because insulated siding is thicker than hollow vinyl siding,
windows, doors, and other openings may have to be built out to
avoid looking recessed. Use wood shims and either aluminum trim
coil or vinyl lineals to build out openings. In some cases, the foam
backing in CedarBoards siding will create enough stiffness to span
over or under a window without additional support.
dual
crimp
If you are using utility trim or dual undersill trim to secure the panel,
shim the trim to accommodate the thickness of the siding panel.
Remove the top 1" of the foam backing so the top of the panel fits
into shimmed trim. Use a snap lock punch to raise tabs every 6"
to lock the panels into the trim.
trim foam
When you cut a siding panel to fit around an opening, use a nail
slot punch to create additional nail slots. Fasten through these
additional nail slots to secure the panel. Make sure the face of the
J-channel or other trim will cover the nail slots.
1-1/4" J-channel
Under soffit
nail slots
Secure the last course of siding under the soffit with utility trim,
dual undersill trim, or cornice receiver with finish board.
You will have to create tabs or nail slots as described above.
We recommend the cornice receiver with finish board, as it
provides an attractive look and eliminates the need for shims.
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Overlapping panels
On factory-cut panels, the foam is set back from both ends of the
panel. The adhesive begins 2" back from the end of the foam.
To correctly overlap the panels, slip the vinyl edge of the bottom
portion of the seam between the foam and the vinyl panel.
For standard length CedarBoards, slide the panels together until
the foam ends touch or you achieve a minimum overlap of 1". The
maximum overlap should not exceed 1-1/2" because exceeding
an overlap of 1-1/2" can compromise the appearance of the lap.
For CedarBoards XL:
• Above 40°F, overlap the panels 1-1/4" to 1-3/4"
• 40°F and below, overlap panels 1" to 1-1/2" and leave
a 1/4" space between the foam
TIP: For ease of handling extended length product,
we recommend carrying the panels on edge, not flat.
Two-person installation is also suggested.
Measuring CedarBoards
When lapping two factory laps, you will often butt the panel foam
and not lap 1" as in standard vinyl applications. This mandates
a different approach from standard practice when you measure
CedarBoards panels.
When filling in a piece to end a course of siding, hold the tape
tight into the receiver of the corner post, J-channel, etc., and
measure the distance to the foam of the existing piece already
hung. Subtract the proper amount for expansion and contraction,
depending on the temperature.
As you measure on the full piece to be cut, measure from the foam
on the factory end that butts to the existing piece to your desired
measurement. This will ensure a butt fit on the foam and the
proper room in the receiver for expansion and contraction.
Creating a field lap
For best appearance, lap factory ends only. If you must lap a non-
factory end, you will first have to remove the foam and adhesive.
Cut the foam back approximately 3/4" on the field cut, fabricate
the top and bottom panel end notches, and always use a factory
notch as the overlapping panel. Place the field-cut end into the
factory end.
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Vertical Siding
1" x 3" furring
nail through furring
NOTE: Never install vinyl siding over open furring strips or
studs. Always check with your local building code official.
With vertical siding, however, you may have to complete an
extra step to provide solid nailing points along the vertical
edge of the siding panel. The need for this added step
depends on the type of substrate used and the nature of the
construction project.
12"
With new construction or remodeling using plywood or wood
composite, there are no additional steps. You can nail into plywood
and wood composite substrates at any point as long as you do not
exceed 12" on center.
1/2" foam sheathing
In new construction using rigid foam or fiber sheathing, you must
install solid wood nailer strips horizontally to studs before applying
sheathing. Use 1" x 3" wood furring positioned 12" on center. For
further information regarding applying wood furring over stucco,
please refer to page 32.
always position topmost nail
in topmost full nail slot with
vertical applications
When remodeling over existing wood siding, you must apply rigid
foam or fiber sheathing, shimming if necessary to create a level
surface. When remodeling over brick, block, stucco or irregular
wall surfaces, apply furring strips horizontally to create a level
surface; then apply rigid foam or fiber sheathing.
12"
Installing Trim
1/2" foam sheathing
F-channel
When installing CedarBoards products, use specially designed
1-1/4" accessories at corners and around windows, doors and
other openings.
Top and bottom J-channel
Unlike the preparation for horizontal siding, do not install a starter
strip for vertical siding. J-channel is used to frame the top and
bottom of the vertical panels.
soffit
soffit
J-channel
J-channel
• Snap a base line 1" above the low part of the house. Apply
1-1/4" J-channel along the top and bottom of the wall to
receive the siding panels.
vertical
siding
vertical
siding
• Install the bottom J-channel, and overlap the J-channels
3/4". To do this, cut out a 1" section of the nailing flange
and face return.
• Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the
eave. Leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and cornerposts.
Overlap J-channels 3/4" to allow for expansion.
J-channel
J-channel
• For water drainage, drill 1/8" diameter weep holes in the
base of the J-Channel no more than 16" apart.
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Soffit
vertical
siding
If you are going to install soffit, you may want to install the receiving
channels for the soffit at this point. The illustrations show alterna-
tive approaches for installing siding and soffit receiving channels.
1"
weep
holes
A
B
vertical
siding
vertical
siding
3/4"
Options for transitions
J-channel
flashing
J-channel
drip cap
If a wall requires more than one course of vertical siding or Board
& Batten or if you are transitioning to another cladding, you can
proceed in one of two ways:
• Option 1. Use two lengths of J-channel, back-to-back,
at the joint between the two courses (A).
J-channel
• Option 2. Use a combination of one length of J-channel
and one length of drip cap (B).
vertical
siding
vertical
siding
Installing the siding panels
Plan the panel layout. Correctly installed vertical siding should
have a balanced appearance. This means that if you were to draw
a vertical line down the center point of a wall, you would have an
equal number of panels to the right and left.
1/4" to 3/16"
topmost nail
at the top of
the topmost
full nail slot
If you have to trim panels to fit, the end-most panels should be
the same width. To do this, divide the space to be covered by the
width of one panel over both ends of the wall. For example, if a
wall required 25 full panels plus 10", you will need to rip cut two
5" lengths of panel to create partial panels for the end pieces.
Use 2" (minimum) corrosion-resistant nails to penetrate the wood
substrate at least 3/4". Do not drive nails at an angle.
center
remaining
nails in
Do not drive nails down tightly. Drive nails until there is 1/16"
between nail head and the nail flange.
the slots
Always position the top most nail at the top of the top most full
nail slot. Center the remaining nails in the slots. Space the nails
vertically 12" o.c.
3/8" to 1/2"
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Fitting into trim pieces
1/4" gap to
cornerpost
Around windows, doors and other openings allow a 1/4" minimum
gap between the siding and the trim. If an opening occurs near
the lower end of a panel, be sure to allow room for downward
expansion as described in the instructions.
3/4"
J-channel
Starting and finishing with partial panels
Cut the first of the partial panels.
snap
locks
• Mark the cut line by measuring from the nail hem edge.
• Rip cut the panel. Do not cut off the nail hem.
• Use a snap lock punch to create locking tabs 6" apart along
the cut edge. In some cases (if the glue bead is too close from
the cut edge), a portion of the foam backer may need to be
removed in order to snap lock punch the cut edge.
Panel
• Before installing this partial panel into the outside cornerpost,
install a piece of 3/4" J-channel inside the 1-1/4" J-channel to
receive the partial panel locking tabs. Remember to allow 1/4"
gap for expansion/contraction.
• Slide the cut edge of the panel into the J-channel, making sure
to engage the snap locks.
• Using a level, make certain this panel is plumb.
• Nail vertically every 12" following the fastening procedure
for vertical siding.
• Install the next panel. Lock the panel into the preceding panel,
and follow same fastening instructions for succeeding panels.
Minimum 5/8"
To finish the first course of the wall, rip cut the panel to size and
snap lock punch locking tabs every 6" on the cut edge. Install a
piece of 3/4" J-channel inside the 1-1/4" J-channel to receive
the cut edge locking tabs.
NOTE: When necessary, cut panels to fit around doors and
windows. When marking the cut, remember to allow for
expansion. The starting and finishing procedure described
above is also used when fitting partial panels around
windows and doors.
NOTE: If you start with a full panel, create a starter piece by
rip cutting the nail hem from a panel (minimum 5/8”).
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Band Board
Installing Band Board
Before you begin, determine where the last course of siding will
end. Nail cornice receiver loosely every 8" to 10", with the nailing
fin facing up. Keep the cornice receiver straight as it establishes
the line for the Band Board.
Install the last course of siding 1/4" below the cornice receiver.
If necessary, trim the top of the siding panel to fit below the cornice
receiver. With a nail slot punch, punch nail slots 16" apart, 1/4"
from the panel’s upper edge. Nail through the center of the holes
for a loose fit between the panel surface and the nail heads.
Cut Band Board to length, allowing for clearance between the
Band Board ends and the trim for expansion and contraction.
Push the snap leg of the Band Board into the cornice receiver.
Nail the Band Board loosely every 10" to 12".
Fitting into trim pieces
nail with fin facing up
The Band Board is designed to fit into CedarBoards J-Channel,
Corner and lineal 1-1/4" accessories.
For lengths less than 12', allow 1/4" gap between the ends and
the trim at temperatures above 40°F; 3/8" gap at temperatures
below 40°F.
For lengths greater than 12', allow 3/8" gap between the
ends and the trim at temperatures above 40° F; 1/2" gap
at temperatures below 40° F.
When using the Band Board in installations with accessories
that DO NOT have a 1-1/4" pocket, be sure to allow clearance
between the two pieces for expansion. Trim a short section of
Band Board to create an end cap for these applications.
Installing siding above Band Board
There are two ways to continue siding above the Band Board:
• For horizontal siding, use a starter strip. Position the starter
strip above the Band Board enough to allow the siding return
leg to engage the starter strip.
• For vertical siding, use J-channel. Align the nail slots of the
J-channel with the nail slots of the Band Board.
push snap leg of band board
into cornice receiver
NOTE: When nailing a starter strip, avoid pinning the
Band Board. The Band Board must be allowed to
expand and contract freely.
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Overlapping two pieces of Band Board
Only factory-cut edges can be used create a lap seam.
The adhesive begins approximately 2" back from the end
of the foam.
2
3
7-1/8"
4
5
1
6
7
8
9
For the underside piece, measure back 1-1/2" from the end of
the vinyl. Cut back 1-1/2" of foam and remove the bottom portion
of the rear return and snap leg. Slip the vinyl edge of the bottom
portion of the seam between the foam and the vinyl panel. Slide
two pieces together, overlapping them 1-1/4", leaving a 1/4" gap
between the foam for expansion.
2
Creating end caps for Band Board
To create end caps for Band Board:
2-3/4"–3"
1. Cut 1/8" off the bottom of a piece of Band Board, leaving a
piece that is 7-1/8" wide.
3
2. Remove the foam from the back of the piece.
3. Then, cut the piece down so that it is 2-3/4" to 3" wide.
The nail hem will be either left or right, as the insert can
be used for either side.
4. With the nail hem to the side, insert the cut piece between the
foam and the Band Board. This will form a tight fit, but it may
be necessary to glue or caulk at the point where the Band
Board meets the cut piece.
4
NOTE: Depending upon the corner system you are using, you
may have to trim the nail hem to fit.
5
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SECTION 11 — Special Situations
Trimming Curved Openings
Flexible J-channel simplifies installations around curved objects
such as half and full round windows. To install around the top of
an arched window, follow these simple steps:
Measure the circumference of the arch, then add 1-1/2" to allow
for overlap of the bottom J-channel.
Place the channel along one side of the window, leaving a 3/4"
section below the bottom edge of the window sill (shown). Position
the first nail at the base of the arch. Drive the nail through the
flange, tightly securing the flexible channel.
NOTE: This is an exception to the rule that says don’t fasten
vinyl tightly. When installed around curved objects, flexible
channel must be nailed tightly.
6"
Place additional nails every 6" along the flange. Again, nail tightly.
Be sure the last nail is positioned at the base of the opposite arch.
window
bottom
3/4"
3/4"
Using a utility knife, cut through the back of the channel, at the
point where it extends beyond the bottom edge of the window sill.
Make a second cut perpendicular to the first at the base of the
channel face. The length of the cut should equal the length of the
extension (shown).
Put a 90° bend in the channel, then nail the resulting tab under
the window (shown).
Repeat at the opposite ends of arch.
To install the bottom J-channel, square cut the corners to overlap
the flexible J-channel. Use the same technique described under
“Installing window and door trim” (page 39). Use pop-rivets to
secure corners (shown). Use washers on the inside of the rivets
to prevent pull through.
NOTE: Remember to properly flash all windows.
pop rivet
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Frieze Board
You can create a frieze-board appearance using the 3-1/2"
lineals in combination with new construction window starter
or J-channel used as a starter.
You will need: 3-1/2" or 5" lineals and new construction window
starter or J-channel.
1"
Position the short leg of new construction window starter against
the soffit or overhang and nail it in place.
Snap the lineal onto the locking edge of the new construction
window starter between the starter and the soffit/overhang, and
nail it in place.
Trim 1-1/2" from the return leg of the overlapping lineal. Make a cut
1-1/2" at the 90° bend of the lineal face and inside (locking) edge.
Trim 1-1/2" from the nail flange and receiving channel. Overlap the
lineals 1" by fitting the notched lineal over the un-notched lineal.
An alternative to using new construction window starter is to use
1/2" J-channel as a starter. Install the J-channel with the back
edge against the soffit or overhang. Then slide the lineal over
the J-channel.
Decorative Sunbursts
Sunbursts are not a product. They are an installation technique you
can use to create an outstanding decorative finish at major accent
areas such as gable ends or over garage door openings. Creating
a decorative sunburst isn’t difficult, but it does take patience and
attention to detail. If you’re ready for a professional challenge, add
a sunburst to your next installation.
NOTE: Because each sunburst installation involves unique
dimensions and angles, the following instructions outline the
basic technique. You must adapt these instructions to your
specific installation.
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You will need J-channel, starter strip, coil stock and siding. When
choosing a siding panel, remember that wider panels install more
quickly than narrow panels. In addition, panels with decorative
profiles—for example, dutchlap—are impractical for sunburst
applications. For best appearance and easiest installation, choose
from single exposure or larger face double exposure panels.
J-channel
In addition to standard installation tools, you’ll need a nail hole
punch and a pop rivet gun.
The following instructions assume an installation at a gable end.
Refer to the illustrations for each step.
Plumb J-channels back-to-back in the center of the gable.
Cut the nail hem and lock off a siding panel. Put the pieces aside;
you’ll need them for the final step.
keep nail hem
Measure the distance between the J-channel and the rake.
Subtract an allowance for expansion. Cut the panel to this length
(“proper length” in illustration). Trim the panel at the rake end to
match the rake angle.
proper
length
third cut
keep butt
leg area
Cut the panel to the correct taper (third cut). This is a critical
step, because the “flaring” of each panel allows you to create the
sunburst’s arch. To create the taper on a single exposure panel,
start at the channel end of the panel. Mark a point 1-1/2" above
the bottom butt. Then, on the opposite end, mark a point where
the upper edge of the panel meets the rake. (If using double
exposure panels, the mark goes under the center butt. On double
exposure panels, the upper exposure is removed completely.)
Now scribe a line between both points and cut with a utility
knife or snips.
Pop-rivet the nail hem and lock to the trimmed panel. Using the
factory nail hem as a guide, punch slots in the panel. Position the
panel and nail it.
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Repeat until both sides of the sunburst are completed.
NOTE: To install the final panels at the top of the sunburst,
bow the panels slightly and slip them under the gable end
J-channel. For added protection against high wind, you
may have to face nail these panels.
Form a sleeve from aluminum coil stock and cover the center
J-channels. Secure it with pop rivets.
Cut into the lock anarched section from coil stock to form
the “sun” portion of the sunburst. Leave a 1" strip below the arch
and bend it out at a right angle. Fasten the piece in place using
pop rivets
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Section 12 — Repair
Replacing a Damaged Siding Panel
To remove a damaged panel, insert the hook end of a zip tool
between the damaged panel and the panel above. Pull downward.
This will allow access to the damaged panel’s
nail flange. Remove the nails securing the panel.
The nails may be allowed to stay in the wall if they are driven flush
with the substrate after the damaged panel is removed. Remove
the damaged panel and install a new panel. Then use the zip tool
to lock the new panel into the panel above.
Replacing a Damaged Outside Cornerpost
Remove the face portion of the damaged post by scoring along
the outside corner of the receiving channel with a utility knife.
It may be easier if you first cut away part of the face of the
outside cornerpost to get better access to make these cuts.
Remove the nailing flanges from the new cornerpost by scoring
and bending until the flanges snap off. Be sure to score along the
inner corner of the receiving channel.
Lap the partial receiving channel of the new post over the partial
channel on the remaining nail flange. Pop rivet the two receiving
channel legs together as needed.
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Repairing Buckled Siding at the Joist
Vinyl siding sometimes becomes buckled between the first and
second floors of a newly built siding installation due to settling
and shrinkage of wet lumber and some framing practices. Using
“engineered” lumber for the joist greatly reduces the chances of
shrinkage and settling and can help prevent buckling of siding.
If, however, you do have a building with this situation, here is a
way to correct the problem using aluminum starter strip.
With a zip-lock tool, unlock the buckled panel from the panel
below by inserting the hooked end of the tool behind the return
leg of the buckled panel until the hook catches.
Pull down and “unzip” the panel.
Insert an inverted scrap piece of starter strip into the exposed
receiving lock of the lower panel.
With the scrap piece inserted into the lock, lay the upper panel
over the starter strip. The starter strip should be visible behind the
upper panel. Mark a line on the scrap piece where the return leg
of the upper panel meets the scrap piece.
Trim the starter on this line, saving the portion with the
locking edge.
NOTE: Cut the starter strip in short lengths to ease
handling and relocking.
Insert the trimmed edge into the lock of the lower panel.
Begin at one end and, using a zip-lock tool, pull the return leg
of the upper panel down to engage the upper panel with the
aluminum starter strip.
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Section 13 — Miscellaneous
Cleaning Vinyl Siding
Vinyl siding resists most common household stains, but it will
become dirty like any product exposed to atmospheric conditions.
In areas not exposed to direct sun and rain, periodic washing with
a soft bristle brush and clean water from a garden hose may be
necessary to remove surface dirt. Chalk may also accumulate on
the surface. This is a normal condition for pigmented materials
exposed to the elements.
For the best appearance, clean vinyl siding at least once a year.
To remove soil, grime and chalk from siding, use a garden hose, a
soft bristle brush, and a bucket of soapy water. (You can also use
the solution described below in the section about mildew.)
To minimize streaking, wash the house from the bottom up.
Thoroughly rinse the siding with clean water from a garden hose.
Avoid prolonged or high pressure rinsing of open ventilated areas.
Keep cleaning solution off surrounding fixtures and surfaces not
scheduled for washing.
NOTE: We do not recommend power washing vinyl or
polymer siding as it can cause moisture intrusion,
damage, and/or discoloration.
Stubborn stains
If you can’t remove especially stubborn stains using normal
household detergents, request a cleaner from your siding
contractor or your local building materials retailer. Always test
any cleaner on an inconspicuous area before full use.
Mildew
Mildew may be a problem in some areas, especially warmer
climates with consistently high humidity. Mildew appears as black
spots on surface dirt and is usually detected in areas not subjected
to rainfall, such as under eaves and porch enclosures. To remove
mildew, prepare a solution as follows:
1/2 cup detergent (Tide, for example)
2/3 cup trisodium phosphate (Soilax, for example)
1 quart 5% sodium hypochlorite (Clorox, for example)
3 quarts water
CAUTION: Greater concentration may cause damage to the
siding and soffit.
If the above solution does not readily remove mildew spots, ask
your siding contractor or your local building materials retailer for a
mildew cleaner.
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Siding over Asbestos
Vinyl siding retrofit over asbestos
This is a recommendation from the Vinyl Siding Institute after
discussions with Federal EPA officials. Because local regulations
supersede federal regulations, local EPA officials should be
contacted in the area where the work is being done.
The most desirable practice is not to disturb the existing siding on
the home. Apply sheathing over the existing asbestos siding, and
then apply vinyl siding over the top of the sheathing. The sheathing
will serve to flatten the wall and also retain any breakage of the
cement asbestos siding. Nails should be long enough to penetrate
through the sheathing and existing asbestos siding and into the
wall studs.
If there is a need to level or flatten a wall, apply furring strips over
the sheathing.
In the case where the homeowner wants the existing cement
asbestos siding removed completely, removal should be done
by a professionally trained asbestos removal crew.
Please note that some jurisdictions require all asbestos removal
to be performed by a trained asbestos removal crew.
Historic Restoration
Vinyl Siding Institute recommended guidelines
If a building is in an historic area or has been designated an
historic building, be certain that approval for the use of vinyl siding
has been obtained from the local historic society. This applies to
building additions as well.
Before proceeding to re-side an historic building, the building
should be examined for moisture, insect infestation, structural
defects and other problems which may be present. These
problems should be addressed and the building pronounced
“healthy” before re-siding with any material.
Do not damage or remove the original siding. If at all possible, do
not alter the original structure so that the application of vinyl siding
is reversible (i.e. the original would remain intact and some time in
the future, if desired, the vinyl siding could be removed). Exception:
“In cases where a non-historic artificial siding has been applied to a
building, the removal of such a siding before the application of vinyl
siding would, in most cases, be acceptable.” (Preservation Briefs,
Number 8 - U.S. Dept. of the Interior—1984)
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Exercise every care to retain architectural details wherever
possible. Do not remove, cover, or add details until you have the
building owner’s written approval. Determine that the owner has
consulted the local historic society regarding the foregoing.
Use siding which closely approximates the appearance of the
original siding in color, size and style.
Lead Renovations
Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that
contains high levels of lead (called lead based paint). Lead from
paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken
care of properly. You can find out about other safety measures by
calling 1-800-424-LEAD. Ask for the brochure “Reducing Lead
Hazards When Remodeling Your Home.” That brochure explains
what to do before, during, and after renovations.
Caulking and Sealants
When installing vinyl siding, the use of caulking and other sealants
is minimal. Do not caulk panels where they meet the receiver of
inside corners, outside corners, or J-channels. Do not caulk the
overlap joints.
For More Information
These instructions will enable you to successfully complete a
siding, soffit, or porch ceiling installation. However, no set of
instructions can answer every question or problem that might
come up during a project. So if you are in doubt about how to
complete a specific procedure, we suggest you try two avenues
of help:
First, call or visit your building materials supplier. You should be
able to find someone with the know-how and experience
to answer your question or solve your problem.
Second, if you need additional help, call us at 1-800-233-8990.
Our Sales Support Group is always ready to help you.
This installation manual is updated periodically. The most
current information will always be posted on our website:
www.certainteed.com.
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INDEX
5" square header with end caps
Corners and cornerposts.................... 38–43, 106–109
bay window ...............................................43, 109
federal................................................................42
inside .............................................14, 41, 81, 109
mitered ........................97, 99, 101, 103, 105, 106
outside...................................................14, 38, 81
SuperCorners ..............................................14, 38
wide...................................................................40
with vertical siding..............................................81
Cornice cap......................................................17, 106
Crown molding.............................................16, 58–61
Cutting panels ..........................................................71
D7" Staggered Perfection Shingles ..................104
D7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles................95
D7" Straight Edge Rough-Split Shakes ............102
D9" Staggered Rough-Split Shakes ................100
Decorative trim options.................................16–17, 44
End caps for lineals ....................................55, 63,134
Equipment and tools ...............................................21
Estimating ................................................................24
Estimating form .......................................................27
Expansion and contraction .......................... 35-36, 83
Fastening methods...................................................33
F-channel .................................................................20
Flashing....................................................................45
Frieze board ..........................................................136
Functional trim, types ...............................................18
Gable end panels .....................................................84
Gable end trim................................ 66-67, 82, 84, 113
Half-Round Shingles under soffit.............................119
Half-Round Shingles ..............................................110
Half-Round Shingles in gable ends .........................113
Historic restoration .................................................142
over 3-1/2" lineals ..............................................55
Accessories, installation............................................37
Accessories, types .............................................14–20
Asbestos................................................................142
Band board .................................................17, 62,133
Bay window corners ...................................15, 43,109
Blind miter ...............................................................64
Board & Batten.........................................................80
Capping
cornerposts .......................................................40
lineal used as a rake board ................................53
Cedar Impressions
D7" Staggered Perfection Shingles ..................104
D7" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles................95
D7" Straight Edge Rough-Split Shakes ............102
D9" Staggered Rough-Split Shakes ................100
Half Rounds.....................................................110
inside cornerpost ............................................108
mitered cornerpost...........................................106
on a steep rake................................................116
on non-vertical walls ........................................116
over horizontal siding ...............................117, 118
replacing a damaged panel......................121, 124
special effects ..................................................120
starter strips.......................................................14
T5" Straight Edge Perfection Shingles................97
trimming bay windows .....................................109
CedarBoards .........................................................127
Cleaning vinyl siding ...............................................141
Completion ..............................................................78
Corner block ............................................................54
Corner systems, types........................................14–15
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Horizontal siding.................................................28, 70
Inside cornerposts......................................41, 81, 108
Inside Federal corners ..............................................42
Insulated siding, styles..............................................12
InvisiVent soffit..........................................................91
J-channel as gable end trim......................................66
J-channel at gable ends ...........................................82
J-channel, vertical siding ..........................................81
J-channels, types .....................................................17
Lineal application around windows ...............47, 49–50
Rosette...............................................................16, 54
Shutters....................................................................79
Siding terms .....................................................7, 8–12
Slip joints for lineal corners .......................................57
Snap-on lineals.............................................16, 44, 47
Soffit...................................................................13, 88
Soffit trim, types .......................................................20
Special effects with Cedar Impressions...................120
Special tools.............................................................23
Starter strips, types ............................................18–19
Lineal, starter application
Starting Cedar Impressions over
for windows and door surrounds ..........................49
horizontal siding .................................................117
Lineals as decorative trim .........................................44
Lineals as gable trim ................................................67
Lineals over horizontal siding ....................................53
Lineals, types ...........................................................16
Materials and tools ...................................................21
Measuring ...............................................................26
Nailing, stapling and other fastening methods...........33
Northwoods S7" and S9" Shakes...........................125
Outside cornerposts...........................................14, 38
Overlapping horizontal panels...................................71
Polymer shake siding, features ...................................8
Polymer shake and shingle siding, styles ....................9
Porch ceilings ..........................................................86
Preparing wall surfaces, horizontal siding............28, 74
Preparing wall surfaces, vertical siding......................80
Repairing buckled siding at the joist........................140
STUDfinder Installation system ..................72–73, 127
Sunbursts.......................................................136–138
SuperCorners.....................................................14, 38
Transporting and storing vinyl siding .........................22
Trimboards .........................................................68–69
Trimming curved openings......................................135
Triple 3-1/3 Solid and InvisiVent Soffit .......................91
Ventilation, soffit..................................................13, 85
Vertical siding (including Board & Batten) ..................80
Vinyl siding, features.................................................10
Vinyl siding, styles.....................................................11
Window and door trim, with horizontal siding............46
Window flashing .......................................................45
Replacing a damaged
Cedar Impressions panel..........................121, 124
Replacing a damaged outside cornerpost ..............139
Replacing a damaged siding panel .........................139
Restoration Millwork .................................................68
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GLOSSARY
Because this manual was written for building professionals, we have freely used the language and jargon of the siding
industry. To avoid confusion, we thought it a good idea to share our understanding of each of these terms with you.
Band Board—A decorative piece of horizontal trim placed between two floors along the rim joist.
Beaded—A narrow, half-round molding at the base of a lap siding panel.
Casing—Molding of various widths used to trim door and window openings at the jambs; also referred to as lineal,
window, or door surround.
Contraction—Commonly refers to building products contracting due to outside temperature changes.
Course—A row of siding panels running the width of the wall.
Dormer—A gabled extension built out from a sloping roof to accommodate a vertical window.
Drip Cap—A horizontal flashing placed over exterior door or window frames to divert rainwater.
Dutchlap—Refers to a drop-style panel that was popularized by early American settlers in the seaboard states;
lap siding panel with a horizontal bevel at the top of the panel that sits just below the bottom of the next
course of siding.
Eave—The overhang of a pitched roof at the bottom edge, usually consisting of a fascia board, a soffit for a closed
cornice, and appropriate moldings.
Expansion—Commonly refers to building products expanding as outside temperature changes.
Exposure—The width of the exposed face of each panel of siding; also referred to as reveal.
Face—The side of the siding, trim, or soffit that is exposed to view after the product has been installed.
Fascia—A flat, horizontal band that covers the rafter tails and runs along the bottom edge of the roof line.
Flashing—A thin, impervious material, usually metal, placed around openings to prevent water penetration or to
direct the flow of water over the cladding.
Frieze—The horizontal trimboard connecting the top of the siding with the soffit.
Furring/Furring Strip— Long, thin strips of wood or other materials used to build out the fastening surface of a wall;
commonly used to correct imperfections in wall surfaces, to establish a rainscreen, or to re-establish a structural
fastening surface on the exterior of nonstructural products such as foam insulation.
Gable—The triangle formed on the side or the front of a building by a sloping roof.
Hot-dip Galvanized—The process of dipping metal into molten zinc to apply a protective coating that prevents
corrosion; hot-dipped galvanized iron and steel are corrosion resistant.
Keyway—A recess or groove in a manufactured shake or shingle siding panel.
Lap—Where two siding panels join horizontally, one over the other.
Lineal—Molding of various widths used to trim door and window openings at the jambs; also referred to
as casing, window, or door surround.
Miter Cut—A beveled cut, usually 45°, made at the end of a piece of molding or board that is used to
form a mitered joint.
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O.C.—On center; a measurement of the distance between the centers of two repeating members in a structure,
usually studs.
OSB—Oriented Strand Board.
Panel Projection—The distance that the bottom edge of the siding projects from the wall.
Profile—The contour or outline of a siding panel as viewed from the side.
Rainscreen Wall—A method of constructing walls in which the cladding is separated from a membrane by an
airspace that allows pressure equalization to prevent rain from being forced in. It consists of an exterior cladding,
a cavity that is typically created through the use of furring strips behind the cladding, and an inner wall that
incorporates a weather-resistant barrier.
Rake—Trim members of a gable roof that run parallel to the roof slope from the eave to the ridge.
Rigid Sheathing—Plywood, OSB, or foam sheathing.
Rim Joist—The board that the rest of the joists are nailed to. It runs the entire perimeter of the house.
Rip Cut—A cut made lengthwise on a piece of siding or trim.
Kick-Out Diverter Flashing—A flashing piece located where sloped roofs meet vertical walls; designed to divert
water into a gutter.
Sheathing—Sheets of plywood, exterior gypsum board, or other material nailed to the outside face of studs as a
base for exterior siding.
Shim—A building material, usually wood, used to even a surface.
Skirtboard—Treated lumber or PVC trimboard installed horizontally; used as a transition from foundation to siding
or as a starter strip.
Soffit—The underside of an overhanging eave.
Square—Unit of measure for siding; equal to 100 square feet of exposure
(e.g. a 10-ft. by 10-ft. wall section = 100 square feet = 1 Square).
Starter Strip—An accessory used to engage the locking leg of the first course of siding.
Structural Member—A support that is a constituent part of any structure or building.
Structural Sheathing—The layer of boards, wood or fiber materials applied to the outer studs, joists, and rafters
of a building to strengthen the structure and serve as a base for an exterior cladding.
Substrate—A layer of material applied over the studs at the exterior walls of a building.
Weather-Resistant Barrier—A building membrane that protects building materials from exterior wind and water
penetration.
NOTE: When the terms “recommend” and “should” are used in this manual, the step is optional for installing
fiber cement. However, it is included because the step represents best practice. When the terms “required”
and “must” are used, the step is a necessary part of the installation process and must be adhered to.
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