CUNO Incorporated
400 Research Parkway
Meriden, CT 06450, U.S.A.
Toll Free: 1-800-733-1199
Worldwide: 203-237-5541
Fax: 203-238-8701
© 2001 CUNO Incorporated
98-91220 0601
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I. Installation Instructions
A. DETERMINE THE APPLIANCE LOCATION
B. PREPARE THE AREA FOR INSTALLATION
The appliance can be located under a sink or in a basement
Remove supplies from under the sink and stack them
depending on space availability and the customer's preference. If neatly away from the working area. Arrange a light for the work
a basement installation is selected, additional tubing, hardware
and fittings may be needed and a hole will have to be made from
inside the cabinet, through the floor, to the basement. Never
install it in an area of the home where the temperature may drop
to freezing, because damage to the appliance may occur. It will
be important that appropriate, protected, electrical service be
available at the appliance location. If not already available, make
area, if necessary.
If a basement installation is called for, determine where the
components will be located and how they will be mounted.
Special mounting brackets and hardware may be necessary to
secure the appliance to a wall or ceiling joists.
Inspect the cold water supply line and determine if any
special fittings, in addition to what is included in the kit, are
sure to contract the necessary work prior to appliance installation. required.
The exact placement of the various components of the
appliance will vary from installation to installation. The
installer, in conjunction with the customer, must decide on
where to place the faucet, tank and purification assembly by
balancing the homeowner's convenience with ease of installa-
tion and servicing. (See Fig. 1 & 7). A nearby electrical outlet
will also be required for proper installation of this device.
Considerations for an icemaker or other remote hookup
should be predetermined, including routing and any additional
tools, fittings, and tubing that may be required.
NOTE: It is a good idea at this time to check the condition of the
undercounter plumbing for any existing or potential leaks. Any
items of concern should be repaired prior to installation of the
drinking water device.
1/4” Green Tubing
Red SFC Tubing
Storage Tank
Valve
3/8” Blue Tubing
1/4” Orange
3/8” Yellow
Tubing
Tubing
Feedwater
Tapping
Valve
Storage Tank
Drain Saddle
Sink Drain
3/8” Black
Tubing
Purification Assembly
* 110/60 (220/50) Electrical Connection
Necessary at This Location
Fig. 1
3
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Procedure:
C. PREPARE THE APPLIANCE FOR
1) Center punch a small indent at the center of the desired
faucet location.
2) Slowly drill the required pilot hole for the chassis punch.
3) Set up the chassis punch per the instructions and tighten the
nut to cut the desired hole size.
INSTALLATION
Open the shipping carton and remove the components.
Check to see that all of the installation parts are present. They
should include the purification assembly, storage tank, faucet,
installation hardware, RO membrane cartridge and tubing.
Check to see that the air supply in the empty tank is approxi-
mately 7 psi (48 kPa). Adjust it if necessary. If an optional
percent rejection monitor is selected, the probes should be
installed at this time. Follow the instruction that came with the
monitor. To ensure you the highest level of purity, the RO
membrane cartridge has been shipped separately in a sealed
plastic bag. Follow the steps below to install the RO mem-
brane cartridge.
STEP 1: Cut open the sealed plastic bag and remove the RO
membrane cartridge.
STEP 2: Remove the white plug from the fitting at the bottom
of the cartridge by pushing in the small gray collet and pulling
out the plug simultaneously. (See figure 6.)
STEP 3: Remove the red plastic cap from the top of the cartridge.
STEP 4: Connect the red SFC reject tubing by inserting the
open end into the fitting at the bottom of the RO membrane
cartridge as far as it will go. Take note of the tag attached to
the SFC tube which indicates the outlet end.
STEP 5: Line up the cartridge ears (Fig. 9), insert the cartridge
and push it into the head until it is fully seated. Twist the car-
tridge 1/4 turn counterclockwise to lock it into place. The final
orientation should be such that the cartridge label faces
towards the front and the fitting is located towards the rear.
4) Clean up all sharp edges with a file if necessary.
Porcelain/Enamel/Ceramic sink on sheet metal or cast iron
base; air gap or non air gap faucet.
Recommended tools:
•
•
Variable speed drill
Relton 7/8" porcelain cutter tool set (alternate 9/16"
porcelain bit may be used for a non-air gap faucet)
Plumber's putty
•
It is important to understand what is involved in this proce-
dure. First, the glassy layer of porcelain must be penetrated
through to the base metal. Second, a center disc of porcelain
must be removed while protecting the surrounding porcelain
against chipping or fracturing. Third, the base metal must be
drilled through to complete the hole.
Procedure:
1) Mark the center for the 7/8" hole.
2) Form a shallow putty dam around the hole area and fill it
with enough water to lubricate the carbide drill bit.
3) Carefully drill a pilot hole through the porcelain/enamel and
the base metal using a carbide type pilot drill. Important:
Always operate the drill with light pressure at a slow
speed (300-400 rpm).
D. MAKE THE FAUCET MOUNTING HOLE
4) Insert the pilot tip of the spring-loaded porcelain cutter into
the pilot hole.
A wide variety of RO faucet mounting situations may be
encountered. The most common are stainless steel or ceramic
on metal sinks. Consult your dealer for any other materials
which may be encountered.
The faucet should be positioned so that it empties into the
sink and the spout swivels freely for convenience.
If the sink already has a hole provided that can accommo-
date the RO faucet, then no drilling is required.
5) Drill the porcelain/enamel using the spring-loaded
porcelain cutter, making certain a complete ring has been
cut through the porcelain/enamel to the metal base.
6) Change to the metal cutter. With a slow speed and light
pressure, cut away the inner porcelain/enamel disc down
to the base metal. Make certain that the cutter does not
touch the outer rim of the cut porcelain/enamel. Continue
with this bit to cut completely through the metal.
NOTE: Sprayers can be disconnected to provide a suitable
mounting hole for the RO faucet. A pipe cap or plug will be
required to seal the sprayer connection.
IMPORTANT: It is mandatory that safety glasses by worn dur-
ing the sink hole drilling operations in order to prevent eye injury.
IMPORTANT: When using a porcelain cutter it is critical
that it is always in a sharpened condition. Dull cutters are
known to chip sinks.
Before drilling the hole, always check underneath the sink to
ensure that nothing will interfere with mounting the faucet such
as reinforcing ribs, support brackets or the cabinet construction.
Stainless steel sink, air gap or non-air gap faucet.
Recommended tools:
•
•
•
Center punch
Variable speed drill and high speed drill bits
Greenlee 7/8" chassis punch (alternate 9/16" may be used
for a non-air gap faucet)
•
Protective gloves
4
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3) Connect the 1/4" green tubing supplied in the installation
kit to the smaller barb on the air gap faucet. Push it on
firmly until it seats.
4) Connect the 3/8" black tubing to the larger barb on the air
gap faucet. Push it on firmly until it seats.
E. MOUNT THE FAUCET
Undercounter installations generally require that the
faucet's built-in air gap be used. In basement installations, the
built-in air gap does not have to be used if one is provided
elsewhere on the drain line.
5) From above the sink counter-top, feed the air gap tubing
and the threaded nipple through the faucet mounting hole
and position the faucet spout over the sink.
For Basement Installations Without An Air Gap Module
See Installation Instructions O.
6) From below the sink/countertop, install the white spacer
(open side toward the air gap tubing), flat washer and hex
nut onto the threaded nipple and tighten it by hand.
7) Back off on the hex nut just enough to slide the slotted
washer (open side toward the air gap tubes) between the
white spacer and the underside of the sink/countertop.
8) After rechecking the faucet orientation, tighten the hex nut
with a 9/16" wrench until the faucet feels secure.
9) From above the sink, make any minor orientation corrections
by turning the faucet on its flats with a padded adjustable
wrench. Use care so as not to mar the chrome finish.
IMPORTANT: The Uniform Plumbing Code dictates that there
must be an air gap between the RO reject line and the waste
drain. An optional non-air gap faucet, which requires a smaller
9/16" mounting hole, is available to make basement installa-
tions easier.
Undercounter Installation With An Air Gap Faucet:
1) Familiarize yourself with all of the components shown in
the air gap faucet diagram. (See Fig. 2)
2) Remove the hardware from the threaded nipple of the
faucet, except for the chrome base plate and the rubber
washer. The rubber washer may be replaced with a bead of
plumber's putty for a neater appearance.
Faucet with Air Gap
Faucet without Air Gap
Side View
Side View
Back View
Air Gap hole
Chrome base plate
Rubber washer
Chrome base plate
Rubber washer
Slotted washer
Spacer
1/4” Standard
green tubing
Plastic bottom washer
Flat washer
Special red “SFC”
tube from RO
Threaded nipple
Flat washer
Threaded nipple
Hex nut
Star washer
Hex nut
Black 3/8” Reject
tubing to drain
Blue 3/8” Product
water tubing
Blue 3/8” Product
water tubing
Blue 3/8” Product
water tubing
Fig. 2
5
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NOTE: For basement installations, the existing orange feed-
water tubing may have to be longer to reach the feedwater tap-
ping valve.
F. INSTALL THE FEED WATER TAPPING VALVE
AND TUBING
The feed water tapping valve which is supplied, is
designed to be used on 3/8" to 1/2" OD soft copper tubing
(plain or chromed) and rigid metal pipe. Do not use it on flexi-
ble ribbed tubing, because it has too thin a wall thickness and
it requires special hardware.
IMPORTANT: Some local plumbing codes may prohibit
the use of saddle-type valves and/or drain connections.
The use of saddle-type valves are prohibited in Alaska,
Delaware, Idaho, Kentucky, Massachusetts, Michigan,
Minnesota, New Hampshire, North Dakota, Ohio, and
South Dakota. Check your local plumbing codes for any
restrictions that apply. Massachusetts CMR 248 strictly
prohibits the use of saddle-type valves. The feedwater
connection must conform to applicable plumbing codes.
Soft Copper Tubing Installation:
1) Close the cold water supply valve under the sink, or the
main valve for the house.
2) Before installing the feed water tapping valve, make sure
that the piercing lance does not protrude beyond the rubber
gasket. (See Fig. 3)
3) Assemble both halves of the feed water tapping valve onto
the copper tubing.
4) For 3/8" OD tubing, use the side of the bracket with the
projections to prevent distortion of the tubing. Use the "V"
side of bracket for all larger size tubing. Tighten the
screws evenly and firmly. The brackets should be parallel.
Do not deform the tubing. (See Fig. 3)
5) To pierce the soft copper tubing, turn the handle clockwise
until it is firmly seated. The valve is closed in this position.
With a wrench, tighten the nut/seal around the valve
handle stem. Open the cold water supply valve.
6) Remove the cover from the appliance and disconnect the
orange 1/4" tubing from the feedwater fitting. (See Fig. 6)
7) Connect one end of the orange tubing to the feedwater
tapping valve using the brass compression nut, insert in
plastic sleeve. (See Fig. 3)
Rigid Metal Pipe Installation:
1) Close the cold water supply valve and drain the line to
prevent spillage.
2) Drill a 3/16" diameter hole at the desired location on the
pipe. To prevent any electrical shock hazard, use a
battery operated drill.
3) Turn the feedwater tapping valve handle clockwise to
expose the piercing lance beyond the rubber gasket no
more than 3/16". (See Fig. 3)
4) Assemble the feedwater tapping valve on the pipe by
inserting the piercing lance into the drilled hole and
tightening the two halves together. Use the "V" side of the
bracket. Tighten the screws evenly and firmly, keeping the
two sides of the bracket parallel.
Fig. 3
6
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5) Turn the feedwater tapping valve handle clockwise to close IMPORTANT: Some local plumbing codes may prohibit
the valve. With a wrench, tighten the nut/seal around the
valve handle stem.
the use of saddle-type valves and/or drain connections.
The use of saddle-type valves are prohibited in Alaska,
Delaware, Idaho, Kentucky, Massachusetts, Michigan,
Minnesota, New Hampshire, North Dakota, Ohio, and
South Dakota. Check your local plumbing codes for any
restrictions that apply. Massachusetts CMR 248 strictly
prohibits the use of saddle-type valves. The feedwater
connection must conform to applicable plumbing codes.
6) Remove the cover from the appliance and disconnect the
orange 1/4" tubing from the feedwater fitting. (See Fig. 6)
7) Connect one end of the orange tubing to the feedwater
tapping valve using the brass compression nut, insert, and
plastic sleeve. (See Fig. 3)
NOTE: For basement installations, the existing orange feed-
water tubing may have to be longer to reach the feedwater tap- Undercounter Installation:
ping valve.
The drain saddle assembly is designed to fit around a
standard 1-1/2" OD drain pipe. For smaller (lavatory type) or
larger (ABS pipe) drains, consult your dealer for special drain
saddles.
The drain saddle should always be installed above (before)
the trap and on the vertical or horizontal tailpiece. Never install
the drain saddle close to the outlet of a garbage disposal
because plugging of the RO drain line may occur. (See Fig. 4)
G. PREFILL AND SANITIZE THE STORAGE TANK
Prefilling the storage tank is always recommended so that
there is pressure to check for leaks as well as sufficient water
to flush the carbon postfilter. The SQC RO Drinking Water
Appliance is furnished with a container of special sanitizing
granules. It is important to use a sanitizer when prefilling the
tank.
1) Thread the taped 3/8" x 1/4" tank fitting into the tank valve.
Do not over tighten. Open the tank valve so that the tank
handle is parallel to the valve body. Locate the enclosed
container of sanitizing granules, open it and pour the
contents into the end of the tank valve.
2) Disconnect the 3/8" yellow tubing from the back of the
purification assembly and connect one end of it into the tube
fitting located on the tank valve.
3) Connect the other end of the 3/8" yellow tubing to the 3/8"
x 1/4" union connector included in the tank sanitization kit.
4) Connect the free end of the 1/4" orange feed water tubing
to the other end of the 3/8" x 1/4" union connector.
5) Open the feedwater tapping valve (making sure the tank
valve is still open) and allow the tank to fill (about 3 minutes).
6) Close the feedwater tapping valve and the tank valve.
Disconnect the 3/8" yellow tubing from the tank valve
elbow fitting and set the tank aside while proceeding with
the rest of the installation (the sanitizing solution should be
kept in the tank for at least 15 minutes).
Fig. 4
NOTE: If you encounter difficulty in removing the tubing from
the tank, make sure the tank valve is closed and then cut the
yellow tubing approximately 1" away from the tank valve fitting to
relieve the pressure. Remove the 1" piece from the tank fitting.
1) Position the threaded half of the drain saddle at the selected
location and mark the pipe through the threaded opening.
2) Drill a 1/4" hole at the marked location through one side of
the drain tailpiece.
3) Position both halves of the drain saddle on the drain pipe
so that the threaded opening is lined up with the hole in
the drain pipe.
4) Use the screws and nuts to clamp the drain saddle onto
the drain pipe. Make sure that there is equal space
between saddle halves on each side. Do not overtighten.
(See Fig. 5)
NOTE: If an alternate storage tank is used, it should be sani-
tized with household bleach (5-1/4%). Use 3 ml. (1/2 tea-
spoon) of bleach for a 2.5 gallon tank.
7) Reconnect the 3/8" yellow tubing to the back of the
purification assembly. Reconnect the 1/4" orange tubing to
the feedwater fitting on the purification assembly.
IMPORTANT: After the installation is complete, it is recom-
mended that the 3/8" x 1/4" union connector be saved for
future use in tank sanitization.
5) Orient the elbow in the direction of the RO faucet location.
H. INSTALL THE DRAIN CONNECTION
IMPORTANT: Before starting this procedure, inspect the con-
dition of the drain piping, especially in older homes where the
traps and tailpieces can be deceptively thin and frail. If they
are in poor condition, it is wise to inform the customer that the
condition should be remedied.
7
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Undercounter Installation:
The appliance will have the 3/8” yellow, 3/8” blue and the
special red SFC tubing already connected to the purification
assembly.
1) The 1/4” orange tubing should already have been
connected to the feedwater tapping valve. Route the other
end through the large opening in the bottom of the metal
bracket and loop it back to the “Feed” connection on the
purification assembly.
2) Attach the 1/4” x 3/8” union to 1/4” blue tubing on faucet.
3) Connect the 3/8” blue tubing from the purification
assembly to the other end of 3/8” x 1/4” union.
4) Route the 3/8” black tubing from the faucet air gap to the
drain saddle so that it slopes continuously downward
without any loops or low spots. Cut the tubing to the
proper length and connect it to the drain saddle elbow.
5) Connect the 3/8” yellow tubing from the purification
assembly to the tank.
6) Route the special red SFC tubing toward the faucet. Do
not cut this special SFC tubing. It’s length is important
to maintain proper efficiency and performance.
7) Cut the 1/4” green tubing from the faucet air gap to the
proper length and connect it to the1/4” connector fitting on
the end of the SFC tubing.
Fig. 5
I. INSTALL THE PURIFICATION ASSEMBLY AND
STORAGE TANK
For Basement Installation See Installation Instructions O.
Undercounter Installation:
The purification assembly is usually mounted to the right or
the left side wall inside of the sink cabinet, taking into consider-
ation the space available and the tank location. Generally, the
storage tank is placed in the rear of the sink cabinet while the
purification assembly is positioned toward the front for filter
cartridge accessibility.
To mount the purification assembly, elevate it at least 2" (5
cm) off of the cabinet floor and, while keeping it level, mark the
location of the mounting holes on the cabinet side wall. Make
small pilot holes with an awl or a drill and screw in the two
mounting screws; leaving just enough protruding to allow the
bracket mounting slots to slide over them.
K. INSTALL THE ICEMAKER HOOKUP (optional)
The RO drinking water appliance can be connected to any
standard refrigerator icemaker or icemaker/water dispenser. It
should never be connected to a commercial type bar icemaker.
Hooking up an icemaker involves connecting a tee with a
shut off valve into the 3/8" blue faucet tubing and routing the
tubing over to the refrigerator. Hooking up to existing copper
unit is generally not recommended unless it is less than six
months old. If copper tubing must be used, then the installa-
tion of a small in-line carbon filter at the refrigerator connection
is recommended.
NOTE: If the cabinet side walls are not of solid construction,
the purification assembly can be set on the cabinet floor and
held against the side wall with the mounting screws. However,
the purification assembly will then need to be lifted from the
mounting screws in order to remove the filter cartridges.
Before turning off the existing tap water supply to the
refrigerator icemaker, always shut off the icemaker first (usual-
ly by lifting the lever arm above the bin to the uppermost posi-
tion).
The icemaker should only be turned on again after the RO
system has been drained several times and the storage tank
has a full supply of water.
NOTE: Contact your dealer for the availability of
special icemaker hookup kits.
The storage tank may be oriented either vertically or horizontally.
It is generally placed to the rear of the cabinet but can be set in
the front center (between the sink basins) for ease of access if
space permits. For horizontal positioning, carefully detach the
tank base from the tank bottom and use it as a cradle.
IMPORTANT: Before any service is performed on the RO
appliance, always turn off the icemaker valve and the ice-
maker unit. Only turn them on when the system is operat-
ing and the tank is full.
J. MAKE THE TUBING CONNECTIONS
With all of the components in place, the tubing connections
can be made. When routing the tubing between the compo-
nents, several guidelines should be observed.
•
•
•
Tubing runs should generally follow the contour of the
cabinet rather than interfere with the cabinet storage area.
Strive for a neat and orderly tubing “flow” by using
fasteners (e.g. insulated staples) to secure the tubing.
Arrange the tubing so that there are no sharp bends.
Leave some “play” in the tubing for ease of servicing, then
cut the tubing to the desired length.
•
Try to keep the tubing from the purification assembly to the
tank and faucet as short as practical for good flow.
For Basement Installation See Installation Instructions O.
8
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milliliters) and a watch with a second hand to calculate the
approximate production in gallons per day (milliliters per
minute x 0.38=gpd). Proceed to check the reject flow by
disconnecting the tubing at the drain connection and
measuring the drip rate as outlined above. The ratio
should be a minimum of 2.5 (reject) to 1 (product).
Repeat every 5 minutes until the rate is constant. When
the rate is constant, the tank is empty.
L. START UP THE APPLIANCE
1) Double check to see that all of the connections are secure.
2) Open the feedwater tapping valve and check the appliance
for leaks. If any leaks are detected, close the valve and
correct the problem before proceeding.
NOTE: If a leak occurs at a "Push In" plastic fitting, then
refer to Fig. 6.
3) Open the storage tank valve and lift the faucet handle until
a steady stream of water flows. Close the faucet, wait at
least 5 minutes and carefully check for leaks. Correct
them as necessary.
3) Allow the system to operate in this condition overnight (or
24 hours) to ensure water purity.
4) Close the faucet and reinspect the appliance for leaks.
Allow the tank to fill completely (it will take approximately
4 hours), then drain the tank again. The water should be
discarded because it may contain some preservative/
disinfectant solution.
5) The appliance should be ready to use as soon as the tank
refills. If any objectionable taste is noticed after the
second tankful is drained, instruct the customer to wait
and drain the tank the following day. Only at this time
should an icemaker be turned on if one is connected to
the appliance.
4) Plug in the appliance transformer.
NOTE: When the appliance is first turned on, water may
intermittently "spurt" from the air gap opening at the side of
the faucet. This is perfectly normal, and is caused by air
trapped in the system. This will usually disappear within a
short time.
M. FLUSH THE APPLIANCE OF THE PRESERVATIVE
AND CHECK THE OPERATION
1) With the tank valve closed (the tank should still contain the
sanitizing solution at this point), open the faucet (set the
faucet handle in the "up" position) and feedwater valve.
Water should begin to drip from the faucet within several
minutes. Continue to flush the system for 1 hour. Water
will steadily drip from the faucet at this time. During this
procedure, the tank is being intentionally bypassed in
order to thoroughly sanitize the tank and also flush the
membrane of any preservatives.
2) After flushing for 1 hour, shut off the faucet. Open the tank
valve, lift the faucet handle again and allow the tank to
completely empty. When the tank is empty, the faucet will
drip steadily. Measure and record the rate at which water
drips from the faucet. Use a graduated cylinder (in
NOTE: If an optional percent rejection (PR) monitor is used
and the red light is on, service is required. Several tankfuls of
water may have to be used to completely flush the excess TDS
from the new carbon postfilter before a green light will show.
N. CLEAN UP, PAPERWORK AND CUSTOMER
ORIENTATION
1) Clean up the work area thoroughly.
2) Fill out the warranty card and return it.
This product is outfitted with user friendly ‘Push In’ connectors. Proper use of the
connectors is shown in the diagrams.
‘Push-In’ Tubing Connector
It is most important that the tubing selected for use with these connectors be of
high quality, exact size and roundness, and with no surface nicks or scratches. If it is
necessary to cut the tubing, use a plastic tubing cutter or sharp razor knife. Make a
clean square cut.
Should a leak occur at a ‘Push-In’ connector, the cause is usually defective tubing.
To Fix:
•
Relieve pressure
• Release tubing
• Cut off at least 1/4” from end.
• Reattach tubing
• Confirm connection is leak free.
Fig. 6
9
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2) Attach the 1/4” x 3/8” union to 1/4” blue tubing on faucet.
3) Connect a longer length of 3/8" blue tubing (not included)
to the faucet adapter. Route the tubing through the floor to
the location of the purification assembly. Remove the
existing 3/8” blue tubing from the purification assembly.
Route the other end of the longer length of 3/8” blue tubing
through the large opening in the bottom of the metal
bracket and connect it to the “FAUCET” connection on the
purification assembly.
O. APPENDIX FOR BASEMENT INSTALLATIONS
The following variations are generally required for
basement installations:
INSTALL THE DRAIN CONNECTION
For basement installations, the drain saddle is generally
not used. Instead, the RO reject line (SFC tubing) is routed so
that it drains into a laundry sink, floor drain, or standpipe
through an approved air gap.
NOTE: Instead of removing the existing 3/8" blue tubing from
the purification assembly, a 3/8" connector fitting can be used
to join the tubing from the faucet with the tubing from the purifi-
cation assembly.
4) Route the 3/8" yellow tubing from the purification assembly
to the storage tank.
5) Route 1/4" tubing from an appropriate drain connection
(e.g. laundry sink, floor drain, standpipe) to the location of
the purification assembly. An air gap must be provided
between the outlet and the drain connection.
6) Connect the red SFC tubing from the purification assembly
to the 14" tubing from the drain connection using the 1/4"
connector fitting on the end of the SFC tubing.
MOUNT THE FAUCET
If you choose to use the air gap faucet included with the
RO system, follow the faucet installation instructions given ear-
lier in this manual. Do not hook up any air gap tubing to the
faucet since an alternate air gap will be used elsewhere in the
drain line.
If you choose to use the optional non-air gap faucet,
follow the instructions below.
A) Familiarize yourself with all of the components shown in
the diagram of the non-air gap faucet. (See Fig. 2)
B) Install only the chrome base plate and rubber sealing washer
onto the threaded nipple. (Plumbers' putty may be used in
place of the sealing washer for a neater appearance.)
C) Feed the threaded nipple through the sink/counter-
top mounting hole (a 9/16" hole is adequate).
D) From underneath the sink/countertop, install the
plastic bottom washer, flat washer, star washer,
and hex nut onto the threaded nipple. Hand tighten
the hex nut until the faucet feels snug.
Faucet without
Air Gap
E) After rechecking the faucet orientation, tighten
the hex nut with at 9/16" wrench until the faucet
feels secure.
F) From above the sink, make any minor orientation
corrections by turning the faucet on its "flats" with a
padded adjustable wrench. Use care so as not to
mar the chrome finish.
3/8” Blue Tubing*
For refrigerator ice-
maker or water dis-
penser hookup, tee
into tubing
INSTALL THE PURIFICATION ASSEMBLY AND THE
STORAGE TANK
Feedwater Tapping
Valve
The purification assembly is generally mounted to
the basement wall (using wall anchors) or to the wood
ceiling supports. To mount the purification assembly,
keep the bracket level and mark the location of the
mounting holes. Install wall anchors and/or mounting
screws as required. Leave the screw heads protruding
to allow the bracket mounting slots to slide over them.
(See Fig. 7)
Storage Tank
Cold Water
Valve
3/8” Yellow
Supply Pipe
Tubing*
Red SFC Tubing
Storage
Tank **
1/4” Orange
Tubing
1/4” green tubing
The tank may be oriented either vertically or hori-
zontally and can be placed on a shelf, on the floor, or
suspended from the ceiling supports using brackets.
An effort should be made to minimize the distance
between the tank and purification assembly in order to
ensure an adequate flow rate to the faucet. For hori-
zontal positioning on a shelf or floor, carefully detach
the tank base from the bottom of tank and use it as a
cradle.
Purification Assembly
110/60 (220/50) Electrical Connection
Necessary at This Location
Air Gap Device
(e.g. Gap-A-Flow)
Laundry Sink,
Standpipe or
Floor Drain
MAKE THE TUBING CONNECTIONS
1) A proper length of the 1/4" orange feedwater tubing
should already have been connected to the feed-
water tapping valve. Route it through the large
opening in the bottom of the metal bracket and loop
it back to the "FEED" connection on the purification
assembly.
* For best flow, keep the tubing as short as possible
** Mount the storage tank on a shelf or strap it between two floor joists
Fig. 7
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Problem: Water leaks from air gap module opening.
Causes:
P. INSTALLATION TROUBLESHOOTING
The drain line tubing is looped, kinked, or has a low spot.
The drain line is blocked or the drain hole is not drilled
through completely.
Air is locked in the air gap outlet.
There is excessive RO reject flow.
•
•
Problem: Leak at the feedwater tapping valve.
Cause: Tapping valve is not clamped tightly enough.
Solution: Tighten the tapping valve clamp screws evenly and
firmly keeping both halves of the bracket parallel. Be sure not
to deform tubing.
•
•
Solutions:
Trim any excess tubing to obtain a short, "straight-shot" to
the drain.
•
•
Problem: Leak at the drain saddle.
Cause: Drain saddle not clamped tightly enough.
Solution: Tighten the drain saddle screws evenly and firmly.
Check to see that the drain line is clear of any obstruction
and remove the drain saddle fitting to verify that the hole is
drilled through completely.
Blow air into the air gap outlet using a short length of tubing.
Disconnect the red SFC reject tubing from the faucet air
gap inlet tubing and check the reject flow rate. It should
be less than 175 ml/min. If it is greater than 175 ml/min.,
replace the red SFC reject tubing with the new one of
proper length.
Problem: Leak at the fittings threaded connection.
Cause: Fitting is improperly taped or not
•
•
tightened sufficiently.
Solution: Retape the threaded portion with Teflon® tape and
thread it in firmly. Do not over tighten.
Problem: Leak at the fittings push-in connection.
Cause: Tubing is defective if there is a tubing misassembly.
Solution: Remove the tubing. Squarely cut off 1/4 inch from
the end of the tubing using a sharp razor knife and reinsert it
into the fitting. Make sure that the tubing is pushed in com-
pletely until it seats.
Problem: Too little or no reject flow.
Causes:
Red SFC reject tubing is plugged or defective.
The feedwater tapping valve is not open.
An obstruction in the faucet air gap module.
•
•
•
Solutions:
Problem: Leak at the filter cartridge head.
Replace the SFC reject tubing with one of proper length.
•
•
•
Cause: Defective or misaligned O-ring.
Open the feedwater tapping valve completely.
Remove the air gap module and inspect the internal flow
path. Replace the air gap module if necessary.
Solution: Close the feedwater tapping valve and the storage
tank valve. Lift up on the faucet handle and drain the tank a
minimum of 5 minutes. Remove the filter cartridge and check
the condition of the O-rings. If they are misaligned, reseal
them. If they are damaged, replace them.
Problem: Chlorine or other unpleasant taste/odor is evi-
dent after the initial tank filling.
Cause: Residual preservative/sanitizer is still in the water.
Solution: Drain and fill the storage tank several times if necessary.
Problem: The faucet leaks from the spout with the handle
down.
Cause: An obstructed or defective valve seat in the faucet
mechanism.
Problem: Noise in the drain (gurgling or
dribbling sound).
Cause: The reject water is dripping into the standing water in
the drain trap.
Solution: Remove the faucet spout with a twisting/lifting motion
and slide the faucet handle forward over the spout hole to gain
access to the faucet valve. Unscrew the tee-bar and the slotted
bushing to remove the valve. Clean out any obstruction or
replace it with a new valve mechanism if necessary.
Solutions:
Make sure that the 3/8" black drain tubing from the faucet
air gap module slopes continuously downward to the drain
saddle without any loops or low spots.
•
Problem: No steady drip from the open faucet after the
Angle the drain piping so that the reject water runs down
the side of the drain pipe.
•
•
tank is drained.
Causes:
Change the location of the drain saddle to the horizontal
drain pipe or any alternate vertical drain pipe which is
farther from the trap. Properly plug the original hole.
Caution: Make sure the drain saddle is always installed
above (before) the trap.
The feedwater tapping valve is not open.
The feedwater tapping valve is not installed properly.
A leak from any product water fitting connection.
The icemaker valve was left open before the start-up
procedure completed.
•
•
•
•
Air is still trapped in the system.
•
Solutions:
Open the feedwater tapping valve completely.
•
•
Check the feedwater tapping valve installation to
make sure that the needle has pierced the tubing.
Correct the fitting leak as outlined above.
Close the icemaker valve and wait until the faucet drips.
Wait for the air to be purged from the system.
•
•
•
Teflon is a registered trademark of E.I. DuPont
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II. Operation & Maintenance Instructions
When to Replace the Carbon Postfilter Cartridge
A. IMPORTANT WATER QUALITY ASSURANCE
•
If the filter is being used to control tastes and odors,
replace it every year.
REQUIREMENTS
Reverse Osmosis drinking water appliances contain treat-
ment components that are critical for the effective reduction of
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) as well as inorganic chemical
contaminants. Water Factory Systems® strongly recommends
that the user test the water periodically (every six months mini-
mum) to verify that the appliance is performing satisfactorily.
Some models have a Percent Rejection (PR) Water Quality
Monitor to provide the user with a means to test the water at
any time. If a PR Monitor is not used, your dealer will offer a
bi-annual water testing service. Routine maintenance is nec-
essary in the form of prefilter, postfilter, and membrane
replacement, based on the following guidelines:
•
If the filter is being used to reduce chloramines, change it
every six months. For critical applications such as
aquariums, base the filter change on periodic chloramine
(combined chlorine) tests.
•
If the filter is being used to meet standards for a regulated
organic chemical contaminant, then cartridge replacement
should be based on a monitoring program established with
a public health agency.
How to Replace the Prefilter and
Postfilter Cartridges
1) Lift up on the faucet handle to drain the tank. Unplug the
transformer. Close the feedwater tapping valve. Wait five
(5) minutes for the purification assembly to completely
depressurize.
2) Twist the filter cartridge 1/4 turn clockwise so that the ears
on the cartridge are able to disengage from the head.
Firmly pull the cartridge from the head. It may be
necessary to twist the cartridge slightly from side to side to
help free it.
•
•
Sediment, Carbon Prefilters, and Carbon Postfilters:
Change every six months to one year depending on the
feedwater quality.
RO Membrane: Change it as required based on a built-in
Percent Rejection (PR) Water Quality Monitor. A bi-annual
testing service will be offered by your dealer if a (PR)
Monitor is not used. The recommended maximum service
life is 36 months.
3) Remove the new filter cartridge from its sanitary sealed
wrapper. (Double check to see that it is the correct
replacement by comparing the labels.)
4) Using tap water, food grade silicone lubricant or glycerin,
wet the o-ring seals to make cartridge insertion easier.
5) Line up the cartridge ears, insert the cartridge and push it
into the head until it is fully seated. Twist the cartridge 1/4
turn counter-clockwise to lock it into place.
B. REPLACING THE FILTER CARTRIDGES
The life of the prefilter cartridge generally depends on the
local water conditions (i.e., dirt, rust and/or chlorine levels)
while the life of the postfilter cartridge(s) is generally deter-
mined by the length of service.
When to Replace the Sediment and Carbon Prefilter
Cartridge(s)
6) Open the feedwater tapping valve, plug the transformer in
and carefully check for leaks.
•
Every six months to one year, based upon your dealer's
recommendation and knowledge of the local water
conditions.
•
•
A noticeable decrease in water production is an indication
that the prefilter requires changing.
As a rule, private wells require more frequent sediment
prefilter changes while softened feed water usually requires
only yearly replacement.
•
Recommended maximum sediment or sediment/ carbon
prefilter service life is one year.
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C. REPLACING THE RO MEMBRANE CARTRIDGE
D. SANITIZING THE RO APPLIANCE
To assure the highest quality water from your Water Factory
The life of the RO membrane cartridge depends on the
local water conditions and proper maintenance, e.g., regular fil- Systems RO Drinking Water Appliance, it is important to rou-
ter changes. Under typical conditions, the RO membrane life
ranges from 18-36 months. Unlike the filter cartridges, the RO
membrane cartridge life is not determined by the amount of
water used because of its self-cleaning feature.
tinely sanitize both the storage tank and the purification assem-
bly.
IMPORTANT: These procedures are only intended to be
part of a routine maintenance program only and are not
designed to sanitize systems that have become highly
contaminated from misuse.
When to Replace the RO Membrane Cartridge
•
As determined by a built-in percent rejection (PR) monitor:
The monitor is factory preset so that a green light will be
displayed when the water quality is good, and a red or
yellow light indicates that cartridge replacement may be
necessary. If a red or yellow light is displayed, the faucet
should be opened and the storage tank trained. After it
has refilled, check the water quality again. If a red or yellow
light is still displayed, the membrane should be replaced.
If a PR monitor is not used, your dealer or supplier will
offer a bi-annual testing service.
When to Sanitize the Storage Tank
•
•
Upon start-up as described in the beginning of this manual.
After any servicing or routine maintenance which involves
the RO membrane cartridge, postfilter cartridge(s),
storage tank, or faucet.
When to Sanitize the Purification Assembly
•
After any servicing or routine maintenance which involves
the prefilter cartridge or the RO membrane cartridge.
After any extended period of non-use (over 30 days)
unless the cartridges are stored inside a sealed plastic
bag in the refrigerator.
•
•
How to Replace the RO Membrane Cartridge
1) Close the feedwater tapping valve. Unplug the transformer.
Lift up on the faucet handle to drain the tank. Wait five (5)
minutes for the purification assembly to completely
depressurize.
2) Make sure that there is some slack in the red SFC tubing
connected to the fitting at the bottom of the RO membrane
cartridge. Twist the cartridge 1/4 turn clockwise so that
the tubing connection is accessible. (See Fig. 8)
3) Remove the red SFC tubing by depressing the small gray
collet and pulling the tubing away from the fitting.
How to Sanitize the Storage Tank
Sanitizing the storage tank generally requires:
The Water Factory Tank Sanitizing Unit (P/N 50-011) or
an equivalent device such as an empty filter housing with
fittings and tubing.
•
Common household bleach (5.25% non-scented).
A measuring spoon or a 0-10 ml graduated cylinder.
•
•
1) Close the feedwater tapping valve, unplug the transformer,
and lift up on the faucet handle to empty the water in the
storage tank. It should feel light when empty.
2) Shut off the faucet and close the valve at the top of tank.
Disconnect the 3/8" yellow tubing from the back for the
purification assembly. (Refer to Fig. 6 on the use of the
special "Push-In" connectors.) Remove the tank from its
location and drain it into the sink by turning it upside down
and opening the valve. Make sure that the outlet fitting is
pointing away from your face and into the sink.
3) Make sure that the feedwater tapping valve is completely
closed and disconnect the 1/4" orange feedwater tubing
from the purification assembly. Connect the end of the
feedwater tubing to the sanitizing device. Connect an
extra length of 1/4" tubing to the other end of the sanitizing
device. Using the 3/8" x 1/4" union connector, connect the
3/8" yellow tubing from the tank valve fitting to the extra
piece of 1/4" tubing. (See Fig. 8)
Note: It is advisable to check the end of the red SFC tubing
for nicks or scratches. If any are observed, cut off 1/4" from
the end of the tubing with a sharp razor knife.
4) Firmly pull the cartridge away from the head. (It may be
necessary to twist the cartridge slightly from side to side.)
5) Remove the new RO membrane cartridge from its sanitary
sealed wrapper. (Double check to see that it is the correct
replacement by comparing the labels.) Rinse it with tap
water and dry it off.
6) Remove the white plug from the fitting at the bottom of the
cartridge by pushing in the small gray collet and pulling out
the plug.
7) Remove the red plastic cap from the top of the cartridge.
8) Using tap water, food grade silicone lubricant or glycerin,
wet the O-ring seals to make cartridge insertion easier.
9) Reconnect the red SFC reject tubing by inserting it into the
fitting at the bottom of the new RO membrane cartridge as
far as it will go. Line up the cartridge ears, insert the
cartridge and push it into the head until it is fully seated.
Twist the cartridge 1/4 turn counterclockwise to lock it
into place.
10) Open the feedwater tapping valve, plug in the transformer
and carefully check for leaks. Carefully inspect the fitting
at the bottom of the new RO membrane cartridge.
11) Follow the sanitizing procedure for the storage tank and
the purification assembly outlined below.
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4) Fill the sanitizing device with the following recommended
4) Open the feedwater tapping valve and allow the appliance
to operate for at least six hours. Drain the storage tank
and discard the water. The appliance should be ready to
use as soon as the storage tank refills. If any
dosage of common household bleach:
A standard 2.5 gallon tank - 1/2 teaspoon (3 ml)
•
• Alternate size tanks - 1/2 teaspoon (3 ml) per 2.5 gallons
of tank capacity
objectionable taste is noticed, then drain the storage tank
again and allow it to refill.
5) Open the feedwater tapping valve to force water and
sanitizer into the storage tank. Allow about three (3)
minutes to fill a standard 2.5 gallon tank. It should feel
heavy when it is full.
6) The sanitizing agent should remain in the storage tank a
minimum of 15 minutes. Close the feedwater tapping valve
and the storage tank valve. Disconnect the sanitizing
device from the storage tank and feedwater tapping valve.
Reinstall the storage tank and reconnect the 1/4" orange
feedwater tubing and the 3/8" yellow tubing.
7) Open the feedwater tapping valve to pressurize the system.
Plug in the transformer. Open the tank valve and lift up on
the faucet handle to drain the storage tank of the sanitizing
solution. When the storage tank is empty, the faucet should
drip steadily.
8) Shut off the faucet and allow the storage tank to fill for at
least six (6) hours. Drain the storage tank again and discard
the water. The appliance should be ready to use as soon as
the tank refills. If any objectionable taste is noticed, then
drain the storage tank again and allow it to refill.
E. LONG TERM NON-USE
If the RO appliance is to be left unused for a long period of
time (greater than 30 days), follow this procedure:
1) Lift up on the faucet handle to drain the storage tank and
close the feedwater tapping valve. Wait five minutes for
the purification assembly to depressurize.
2) Remove all of the filter cartridges. Turn the cartridges
upside down in the sink to drain out as much water from
them as possible.
3) Place the cartridges in an air tight plastic bag and store
them in the refrigerator. Important: The cartridges must
be not be allowed to freeze because permanent
damage may occur.
4) When the RO appliance is ready to be put back into
service, reinstall the filter cartridges by matching the
symbols on the top of the cartridge labels with the ones on
the purification assembly heads. Sanitize the storage tank
as described in the previous section. The purification
assembly can be sanitized at this time if so desired.
5) Follow the start up procedure outlined in the previous section.
How to Sanitize the Purification Assembly
Sanitizing the Purification Assembly generally requires:
•
•
•
A new prefilter cartridge
Common household bleach (5.25% non-scented)
A standard eyedropper or equivalent
1) Close the feedwater tapping valve and lift up on the faucet
handle to empty the storage tank.
2) Follow the instructions on changing the prefilter cartridge.
3) Before installing the new cartridge, use and eyedropper to
inject one teaspoonful (approximately 5 ml) of household
bleach into the center opening of the filter cartridge. The
prefilter is located just before the RO membrane cartridge.
(See Fig. 9)
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
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Appendix 1. Electrical Diagram
15
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