2004 Chevrolet Tracker Owner Manual M
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In the caution area, we tell you what the hazard is.
Then we tell you what to do to help avoid or reduce the
hazard. Please read these cautions. If you don’t, you
or others could be hurt.
Index
A good place to look for what you need is the Index in
back of the manual. It is an alphabetical list of what
is in the manual, and the page number where you will
find it.
You will also find a circle
with a slash through it in
this book. This safety
symbol means “Don’t,”
“Don’t do this” or “Don’t let
this happen.”
Safety Warnings and Symbols
You will find a number of safety cautions in this book.
We use a box and the word CAUTION to tell you about
things that could hurt you if you were to ignore the
warning.
{CAUTION:
These mean there is something that could hurt
you or other people.
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Vehicle Damage Warnings
Vehicle Symbols
Also, in this book you will find these notices:
Your vehicle has components and labels that use
symbols instead of text. Symbols, used on your vehicle,
are shown along with the text describing the operation
or information relating to a specific component, control,
message, gage or indicator.
Notice: These mean there is something that could
damage your vehicle.
A notice will tell you about something that can damage
your vehicle. Many times, this damage would not be
covered by your warranty, and it could be costly. But the
notice will tell you what to do to help avoid the
damage.
If you need help figuring out a specific name of a
component, gage or indicator, reference the following
topics:
• Seats and Restraint Systems in Section 1
• Features and Controls in Section 2
• Instrument Panel Overview in Section 3
• Climate Controls in Section 3
When you read other manuals, you might see CAUTION
and NOTICE warnings in different colors or in different
words.
You’ll also see warning labels on your vehicle. They use
the same words, CAUTION or NOTICE.
• Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators in Section 3
• Audio System(s) in Section 3
• Engine Compartment Overview in Section 5
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These are some examples of symbols you may find on your vehicle:
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✍ NOTES
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Lift the lever located under
the front seat to unlock it.
Front Seats
Manual Seats
{CAUTION:
You can lose control of the vehicle if you try to
adjust a manual driver’s seat while the vehicle
is moving. The sudden movement could startle
and confuse you, or make you push a pedal
when you don’t want to. Adjust the driver’s
seat only when the vehicle is not moving.
Slide the seat to where you want it and release the
lever. Then try to move the seat with your body to make
sure the seat is locked into place.
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Manual Lumbar
Reclining Seatbacks
If your vehicle has this feature, turn the knob located on
the driver’s side seatback to adjust support of the
lower back.
To adjust the seatback, lift the lever on the outboard
side of the seat cushion. Release the lever to lock the
seatback where you want it. Pull up on the lever,
and the seatback will go to the upright position.
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{CAUTION:
Sitting in a reclined position when your vehicle
is in motion can be dangerous. Even if you
buckle up, your safety belts can’t do their job
when you’re reclined like this.
The shoulder belt can’t do its job because it
won’t be against your body. Instead, it will be
in front of you. In a crash you could go into it,
receiving neck or other injuries.
The lap belt can’t do its job either. In a crash
the belt could go up over your abdomen. The
belt forces would be there, not at your pelvic
bones. This could cause serious internal
injuries.
But don’t have a seatback reclined if your vehicle is
moving.
For proper protection when the vehicle is in
motion, have the seatback upright. Then sit
well back in the seat and wear your safety belt
properly.
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Head Restraints
Rear Seats
Rear Seat Operation
{CAUTION:
If a head restraint is not installed on the
seatback or stored in the vehicle properly, it
could be thrown about the vehicle in a crash
or sudden maneuver. People in the vehicle
could be injured. Remove the head restraints
only when you need to fold the seat, and be
sure that the head restraints are stored
securely in their proper storage location. When
the seat is returned to the passenger position,
be sure the head restraints are installed
properly.
Adjust your head restraint so that the top of the restraint
is closest to the top of your head. This position
reduces the chance of a neck injury in a crash.
The head restraint can be adjusted to four positions.
To raise the restraint, pull up on the restraint. To lower
the restraint, push in the release button while you
push down on the restraint.
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Folding the Seatback
The rear seat in your vehicle folds to provide more
cargo space. To fold the rear seats do the following:
2. Pull the release straps located near the center of
the vehicle to release the seat cushion. Fold the
seat cushion forward.
1. Fold the safety belt buckles and center safety belt
(if equipped) into the pocket of the rear seatback.
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4. Store the head restraint
in the top of the folded
seat cushion.
5. Pull up on the
seatback release
knob(s) on top of the
seatback and fold
the seatback down.
3. Remove the head restraint from the seatback by
raising the head restraint fully. Press the release
button and remove the head restraint from the
seatback.
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6. Secure the two black
straps attached to the
back of the folded
seat cushion by
To raise the rear seat do the following:
1. Unhook the two black straps from the buttons on
the seatback.
hooking them onto the
knobs on the back
of the seatback when
folded down.
2. Fold the rear seatback up. Push and pull on the
seatback to ensure it’s locked in position.
3. Reinstall the head restraints by inserting them into
the seatback. Make sure the head restraints are
secure in the seatback.
4. Insert the plates of the two black straps into their
storage slots on the bottom of the seat cushion.
5. Fold the seat cushion back and make sure it is
locked into position.
6. Remove the safety belt buckles and center safety
belt (if equipped) from the seatback pocket.
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Safety Belts
{CAUTION:
Safety Belts: They Are for Everyone
It is extremely dangerous to ride in a cargo
area, inside or outside of a vehicle. In a
collision, people riding in these areas are more
likely to be seriously injured or killed. Do not
allow people to ride in any area of your vehicle
that is not equipped with seats and safety
belts. Be sure everyone in your vehicle is in a
seat and using a safety belt properly.
This part of the manual tells you how to use safety
belts properly. It also tells you some things you should
not do with safety belts.
{CAUTION:
Don’t let anyone ride where he or she can’t
wear a safety belt properly. If you are in a
crash and you’re not wearing a safety belt,
your injuries can be much worse. You can hit
things inside the vehicle or be ejected from it.
You can be seriously injured or killed. In the
same crash, you might not be, if you are
buckled up. Always fasten your safety belt,
and check that your passengers’ belts are
fastened properly too.
Your vehicle has a light
that comes on as a
reminder to buckle up. See
In most states and in all Canadian provinces, the law
says to wear safety belts. Here’s why: They work.
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You never know if you’ll be in a crash. If you do have a
crash, you don’t know if it will be a bad one.
Why Safety Belts Work
When you ride in or on anything, you go as fast as
it goes.
A few crashes are mild, and some crashes can be so
serious that even buckled up, a person wouldn’t survive.
But most crashes are in between. In many of them,
people who buckle up can survive and sometimes walk
away. Without belts they could have been badly hurt
or killed.
After more than 30 years of safety belts in vehicles, the
facts are clear. In most crashes buckling up does
matter... a lot!
Take the simplest vehicle. Suppose it’s just a seat on
wheels.
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Put someone on it.
Get it up to speed. Then stop the vehicle. The rider
doesn’t stop.
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The person keeps going until stopped by something. In
a real vehicle, it could be the windshield...
or the instrument panel...
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Questions and Answers About
Safety Belts
Q: Won’t I be trapped in the vehicle after an
accident if I’m wearing a safety belt?
A: You could be – whether you’re wearing a safety
belt or not. But you can unbuckle a safety belt,
even if you’re upside down. And your chance
of being conscious during and after an accident,
so you can unbuckle and get out, is much greater if
you are belted.
Q: If my vehicle has air bags, why should I have to
wear safety belts?
A: Air bags are in many vehicles today and will be in
most of them in the future. But they are
supplemental systems only; so they work with
safety belts – not instead of them. Every air bag
system ever offered for sale has required the
use of safety belts. Even if you’re in a vehicle that
has air bags, you still have to buckle up to get
the most protection. That’s true not only in frontal
collisions, but especially in side and other
collisions.
or the safety belts!
With safety belts, you slow down as the vehicle does.
You get more time to stop. You stop over more distance,
and your strongest bones take the forces. That’s why
safety belts make such good sense.
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How to Wear Safety Belts Properly
Q: If I’m a good driver, and I never drive far from
home, why should I wear safety belts?
This part is only for people of adult size.
A: You may be an excellent driver, but if you’re in an
accident – even one that isn’t your fault – you and
your passengers can be hurt. Being a good
driver doesn’t protect you from things beyond your
control, such as bad drivers.
Be aware that there are special things to know about
safety belts and children. And there are different
rules for smaller children and babies. If a child will be
those rules for everyone’s protection.
Most accidents occur within 25 miles (40 km) of
home. And the greatest number of serious injuries
and deaths occur at speeds of less than 40 mph
(65 km/h).
First, you’ll want to know which restraint systems your
vehicle has.
We’ll start with the driver position.
Safety belts are for everyone.
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3. Pick up the latch plate and pull the belt across you.
Don’t let it get twisted.
Driver Position
This part describes the driver’s restraint system.
The shoulder belt may lock if you pull the belt
across you very quickly. If this happens, let the belt
go back slightly to unlock it. Then pull the belt
across you more slowly.
Lap-Shoulder Belt
The driver has a lap-shoulder belt. Here’s how to wear it
properly.
4. Push the latch plate into the buckle until it clicks.
1. Close and lock the door.
Pull up on the latch plate to make sure it is secure.
If the belt isn’t long enough, see Safety Belt
2. Adjust the seat so you can sit up straight. To see
how, see “Seats” in the Index.
Make sure the release button on the buckle is
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
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5. To make the lap part tight, pull down on the buckle
end of the belt as you pull up on the shoulder belt.
The lap part of the belt should be worn low and snug on
the hips, just touching the thighs. In a crash, this
applies force to the strong pelvic bones. And you’d be
less likely to slide under the lap belt. If you slid under it,
the belt would apply force at your abdomen. This
could cause serious or even fatal injuries. The shoulder
belt should go over the shoulder and across the
chest. These parts of the body are best able to take belt
restraining forces.
The safety belt locks if there’s a sudden stop or crash,
or if you pull the belt very quickly out of the retractor.
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To move it down, pull the knob and move the height
adjuster to the desired position. You can move the
adjuster up just by pulling out the knob and sliding the
adjuster up. After you move the adjuster to where
you want it, try to move it down without pulling out the
knob to make sure it has locked into position.
Shoulder Belt Height Adjuster
Before you begin to drive, move the shoulder belt
adjuster to the height that is right for you.
Adjust the height so that the shoulder portion of the belt
is centered on your shoulder. The belt should be
away from your face and neck, but not falling off your
shoulder.
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Q: What’s wrong with this?
{CAUTION:
You can be seriously hurt if your shoulder belt
is too loose. In a crash, you would move
forward too much, which could increase injury.
The shoulder belt should fit against your body.
A: The shoulder belt is too loose. It won’t give nearly
as much protection this way.
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Q: What’s wrong with this?
{CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if your belt is
buckled in the wrong place like this. In a crash,
the belt would go up over your abdomen. The
belt forces would be there, not at the pelvic
bones. This could cause serious internal
injuries. Always buckle your belt into the
buckle nearest you.
A: The belt is buckled in the wrong place.
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Q: What’s wrong with this?
{CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if your belt goes
over an armrest like this. The belt would be
much too high. In a crash, you can slide under
the belt. The belt force would then be applied
at the abdomen, not at the pelvic bones, and
that could cause serious or fatal injuries. Be
sure the belt goes under the armrests.
A: The belt is over an armrest.
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Q: What’s wrong with this?
{CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if you wear the
shoulder belt under your arm. In a crash, your
body would move too far forward, which would
increase the chance of head and neck injury.
Also, the belt would apply too much force to
the ribs, which aren’t as strong as shoulder
bones. You could also severely injure internal
organs like your liver or spleen.
A: The shoulder belt is worn under the arm. It should
be worn over the shoulder at all times.
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Q: What’s wrong with this?
{CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured by a twisted belt.
In a crash, you wouldn’t have the full width of
the belt to spread impact forces. If a belt is
twisted, make it straight so it can work
properly, or ask your dealer to fix it.
A: The belt is twisted across the body.
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Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy
Safety belts work for everyone, including pregnant
women. Like all occupants, they are more likely to be
seriously injured if they don’t wear safety belts.
To unlatch the belt, just push the button on the buckle.
The belt should go back out of the way.
Before you close the door, be sure the belt is out of the
way. If you slam the door on it, you can damage
both the belt and your vehicle.
A pregnant woman should wear a lap-shoulder belt, and
the lap portion should be worn as low as possible,
below the rounding, throughout the pregnancy.
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The best way to protect the fetus is to protect the
mother. When a safety belt is worn properly, it’s more
likely that the fetus won’t be hurt in a crash. For
pregnant women, as for anyone, the key to making
safety belts effective is wearing them properly.
Center Passenger Position
Four–Door Models
Right Front Passenger Position
To learn how to wear the right front passenger’s safety
The right front passenger’s safety belt works the same
way as the driver’s safety belt – except for one thing.
If you ever pull the shoulder portion of the belt out all the
way, you will engage the child restraint locking feature.
If this happens, just let the belt go back all the way
and start again.
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Lap Belt
To make the belt shorter, pull its free end as shown
until the belt is snug.
When you sit in the center seating position, you have a
lap safety belt, which has no retractor. The word
CENTER is on both the buckle and latch plate. Also, the
center buckle and latch plate are a different color than the
two outboard buckles and latch plates. To make the belt
longer, tilt the latch plate and pull it along the belt.
Buckle, position and release it the same way as the lap
part of a lap-shoulder belt. If the belt is not long
Make sure the release button on the buckle is positioned
so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt
quickly if you ever had to.
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Lap-Shoulder Belt
Rear Seat Passengers
The positions next to the windows have lap-shoulder
belts. Here’s how to wear one properly.
It’s very important for rear seat passengers to buckle
up! Accident statistics show that unbelted people in the
rear seat are hurt more often in crashes than those
who are wearing safety belts.
Rear passengers who aren’t safety belted can be
thrown out of the vehicle in a crash. And they can strike
others in the vehicle who are wearing safety belts.
Rear Seat Outside Passenger Positions
1. Pick up the latch plate and pull the belt across you.
Don’t let it get twisted.
The shoulder belt may lock if you pull the belt
across you very quickly. If this happens, let the belt
go back slightly to unlock it. Then pull the belt
across you more slowly.
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2. Push the latch plate into the buckle until it clicks.
Pull up on the latch plate to make sure it is secure.
When the shoulder belt is pulled out all the way,
it will lock. If it does, let it go back all the way and
start again. If the belt is not long enough, see
release button on the buckle is positioned so
you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt
quickly if you ever had to.
The lap part of the belt should be worn low and snug on
the hips, just touching the thighs. In a crash, this
applies force to the strong pelvic bones. And you’d be
less likely to slide under the lap belt. If you slid under it,
the belt would apply force at your abdomen. This
could cause serious or even fatal injuries. The shoulder
belt should go over the shoulder and across the
chest. These parts of the body are best able to take belt
restraining forces.
The safety belt locks if there’s a sudden stop or a crash,
or if you pull the belt very quickly out of the retractor.
3. To make the lap part tight, pull down on the buckle
end of the belt as you pull up on the shoulder part.
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Safety Belt Extender
{CAUTION:
If the vehicle’s safety belt will fasten around you, you
should use it.
You can be seriously hurt if your shoulder belt
is too loose. In a crash, you would move
forward too much, which could increase injury.
The shoulder belt should fit against your body.
But if a safety belt isn’t long enough to fasten, your
dealer will order you an extender. It’s free. When you go
in to order it, take the heaviest coat you will wear, so
the extender will be long enough for you. The extender
will be just for you, and just for the seat in your
vehicle that you choose. Don’t let someone else use it,
and use it only for the seat it is made to fit. To wear
it, just attach it to the regular safety belt.
To unlatch the belt, just push the button on the buckle.
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Q: What is the proper way to wear safety belts?
Child Restraints
A: If possible, an older child should wear a
lap-shoulder belt and get the additional restraint a
shoulder belt can provide. The shoulder belt
should not cross the face or neck. The lap belt
should fit snugly below the hips, just touching the
top of the thighs. It should never be worn over
the abdomen, which could cause severe or even
fatal internal injuries in a crash.
Older Children
Accident statistics show that children are safer if they
are restrained in the rear seat.
In a crash, children who are not buckled up can strike
other people who are buckled up, or can be thrown
out of the vehicle. Older children need to use safety
belts properly.
Older children who have outgrown booster seats should
wear the vehicle’s safety belts.
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{CAUTION:
Never do this.
Here two children are wearing the same belt.
The belt can’t properly spread the impact
forces. In a crash, the two children can be
crushed together and seriously injured. A belt
must be used by only one person at a time.
Q: What if a child is wearing a lap-shoulder belt,
but the child is so small that the shoulder belt
is very close to the child’s face or neck?
A: Move the child toward the center of the vehicle,
but be sure that the shoulder belt still is on the
child’s shoulder, so that in a crash the child’s upper
body would have the restraint the belt provides.
If the child is so small that the shoulder belt is still
very close to the child’s face or neck, you might
want to place the child in a seat that has a lap belt,
if your vehicle has one.
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CAUTION: (Continued)
this way, in a crash the child might slide under
the belt. The belt’s force would then be applied
right on the child’s abdomen. That could cause
serious or fatal injuries.
Wherever the child sits, the lap portion of the belt
should be worn low and snug on the hips, just touching
the child’s thighs. This applies belt force to the child’s
pelvic bones in a crash.
Infants and Young Children
Everyone in a vehicle needs protection! This includes
infants and all other children. Neither the distance
traveled nor the age and size of the traveler changes
the need, for everyone, to use safety restraints. In fact,
the law in every state in the United States and in
every Canadian province says children up to some age
must be restrained while in a vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Never do this.
Here a child is sitting in a seat that has a
lap-shoulder belt, but the shoulder part is
behind the child. If the child wears the belt in
Every time infants and young children ride in vehicles,
they should have the protection provided by appropriate
restraints. Young children should not use the vehicle’s
adult safety belts alone, unless there is no other choice.
Instead, they need to use a child restraint.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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{CAUTION:
People should never hold a baby in their arms
while riding in a vehicle. A baby doesn’t weigh
much -- until a crash. During a crash a baby
will become so heavy it is not possible to hold
it. For example, in a crash at only 25 mph
(40 km/h), a 12-lb. (5.5 kg) baby will suddenly
become a 240-lb. (110 kg) force on a person’s
arms. A baby should be secured in an
appropriate restraint.
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{CAUTION:
Children who are up against, or very close to,
any air bag when it inflates can be seriously
injured or killed. Air bags plus lap-shoulder
belts offer outstanding protection for adults
and older children, but not for young children
and infants. Neither the vehicle’s safety belt
system nor its air bag system is designed for
them. Young children and infants need the
protection that a child restraint system can
provide.
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Q: What are the different types of add-on child
restraints?
{CAUTION:
A: Add-on child restraints, which are purchased by
the vehicle’s owner, are available in four basic
types. Selection of a particular restraint should take
into consideration not only the child’s weight,
height, and age but also whether or not the
restraint will be compatible with the motor vehicle
in which it will be used.
Newborn infants need complete support,
including support for the head and neck. This
is necessary because a newborn infant’s neck
is weak and its head weighs so much
compared with the rest of its body. In a crash,
an infant in a rear-facing seat settles into the
restraint, so the crash forces can be
distributed across the strongest part of an
infant’s body, the back and shoulders. Infants
always should be secured in appropriate infant
restraints.
For most basic types of child restraints, there are
many different models available. When purchasing a
child restraint, be sure it is designed to be used
in a motor vehicle. If it is, the restraint will have a
label saying that it meets federal motor vehicle
safety standards.
The restraint manufacturer’s instructions that come
with the restraint state the weight and height
limitations for a particular child restraint. In addition,
there are many kinds of restraints available for
children with special needs.
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Child Restraint Systems
{CAUTION:
The body structure of a young child is quite
unlike that of an adult or older child, for whom
the safety belts are designed. A young child’s
hip bones are still so small that the vehicle’s
regular safety belt may not remain low on the
hip bones, as it should. Instead, it may settle
up around the child’s abdomen. In a crash, the
belt would apply force on a body area that’s
unprotected by any bony structure. This alone
could cause serious or fatal injuries. Young
children always should be secured in
appropriate child restraints.
An infant car bed (A), a special bed made for use in a
motor vehicle, is an infant restraint system designed
to restrain or position a child on a continuous flat
surface. Make sure that the infant’s head rests toward
the center of the vehicle.
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A rear-facing infant seat (B) provides restraint with the
seating surface against the back of the infant. The
harness system holds the infant in place and, in a crash,
acts to keep the infant positioned in the restraint.
A forward-facing child seat (C-E) provides restraint for
the child’s body with the harness and also sometimes
with surfaces such as T-shaped or shelf-like shields.
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Q: How do child restraints work?
A: A child restraint system is any device designed for
use in a motor vehicle to restrain, seat, or position
children. A built-in child restraint system is a
permanent part of the motor vehicle. An add-on
child restraint system is a portable one, which
is purchased by the vehicle’s owner.
For many years, add-on child restraints have used
the adult belt system in the vehicle. To help
reduce the chance of injury, the child also has to be
secured within the restraint. The vehicle’s belt
system secures the add-on child restraint in the
vehicle, and the add-on child restraint’s harness
system holds the child in place within the restraint.
One system, the three-point harness, has straps
that come down over each of the infant’s shoulders
and buckle together at the crotch. The five-point
harness system has two shoulder straps, two hip
straps and a crotch strap. A shield may take
the place of hip straps. A T-shaped shield has
shoulder straps that are attached to a flat pad which
rests low against the child’s body. A shelf- or
armrest-type shield has straps that are attached
to a wide, shelf-like shield that swings up or to
the side.
A booster seat (F-G) is a child restraint designed to
improve the fit of the vehicle’s safety belt system. Some
booster seats have a shoulder belt positioner, and
some high-back booster seats have a five-point harness.
A booster seat can also help a child to see out the
window.
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When choosing a child restraint, be sure the child
restraint is designed to be used in a vehicle. If it is, it
will have a label saying that it meets federal motor
vehicle safety standards.
Where to Put the Restraint
Accident statistics show that children are safer if they
are restrained in the rear rather than the front seat. We,
therefore, recommend that child restraints be secured
in a rear seat, including an infant riding in a rear-facing
infant seat, a child riding in a forward-facing child
seat and an older child riding in a booster seat. Never
put a rear-facing child restraint in the front passenger
seat. Here’s why:
Then follow the instructions for the restraint. You may
find these instructions on the restraint itself or in a
booklet, or both. These restraints use the belt system or
the LATCH system in your vehicle, but the child also
has to be secured within the restraint to help reduce the
chance of personal injury. When securing an add-on
child restraint, refer to the instructions that come with the
restraint which may be on the restraint itself or in a
booklet, or both, and to this manual. The child restraint
instructions are important, so if they are not available,
obtain a replacement copy from the manufacturer.
{CAUTION:
A child in a rear-facing child restraint can be
seriously injured or killed if the right front
passenger’s air bag inflates. This is because
the back of the rear-facing child restraint
would be very close to the inflating air bag.
Always secure a rear-facing child restraint in a
rear seat.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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Top Strap
CAUTION: (Continued)
Some child restraints have a top strap, or “top tether.”
It can help restrain the child restraint during a collision.
For it to work, a top strap must be properly anchored
to the vehicle. Some top strap-equipped child restraints
are designed for use with or without the top strap
being anchored. Others require the top strap always to
be anchored. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for your child restraint. If yours requires that
the top strap be anchored, do not use the restraint
unless it is anchored properly.
If you secure a forward-facing child restraint
in the right front seat, always move the front
passenger seat as far back as it will go.
It is better to secure the child restraint in a
rear seat.
Wherever you install it, be sure to secure the child
restraint properly.
If the child restraint does not have a top strap, one can
be obtained, in kit form, for many child restraints.
Ask the child restraint manufacturer whether or not a kit
is available.
Keep in mind that an unsecured child restraint can
move around in a collision or sudden stop and injure
people in the vehicle. Be sure to properly secure
any child restraint in your vehicle – even when no
child is in it.
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{CAUTION:
Each top tether bracket is designed to anchor
only one child restraint. Attaching more than
one child restraint to a single bracket could
cause the anchor to come loose or even break
during a crash. A child or others could be
injured if this happens. To help prevent injury
to people and damage to your vehicle, attach
only one child restraint per bracket.
Anchor the top strap to one of the following anchor
points. Be sure to use an anchor point located on the
same side of the vehicle as the seating position
where the child restraint will be placed.
In Canada, the law requires that forward-facing child
restraints have a top strap, and that the strap be
anchored. In the United States, some child restraints
also have a top strap. If your child restraint has a
top strap, it should be anchored.
Raise the head restraint and route the top strap under
Once you have the top strap anchored, you will be
ready to secure the child restraint itself. Tighten the top
strap when and as the child restraint manufacturer’s
instructions say.
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Top Strap Anchor Location
When routing the top strap at the center seating
position, be sure to pass it between the rear seatbacks
if the top strap connection to the child restraint is
below the top of the rear seatback.
Your vehicle’s top strap anchors for the rear seating
positions are located on the floor of the rear cargo area,
along the outside edge. If your vehicle is equipped
with a luggage compartment cover, remove it before
using the top strap. When routing the top strap at
an outboard seating position, pass it between the head
restraint and the rear seatback.
Don’t use a child restraint with a top strap anchor in the
right front passenger’s position, because there’s no
place to anchor the top strap.
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Lower Anchorages and Top Tethers
for Children (LATCH System)
Your vehicle has the LATCH system. You will find
anchors (A) for the two rear outside seat positions.
This system, designed to make installation of child
restraints easier, does not use the vehicle’s safety belts.
Instead, it uses vehicle anchors (A, B) and child
restraint attachments to secure the restraints. Some
restraints also use another vehicle anchor to secure a
top tether strap (C).
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To assist you in locating
the lower anchors for this
child restraint system, each
seating position with the
LATCH system has a label
on the seatback at each
lower anchor position.
The labels are located near the base of the seatbacks.
{CAUTION:
If a LATCH-type child restraint is not attached
to its anchorage points, the restraint will not
be able to protect the child correctly. In a
crash, the child could be seriously injured or
killed. Make sure that a LATCH-type child
restraint is properly installed using the
anchorage points, or use the vehicle’s safety
belts to secure the restraint, following the
instructions that came with that restraint, and
also the instructions in this manual.
In order to use the LATCH system in your vehicle, you
need a child restraint designed for that system.
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Securing a Child Restraint Designed Securing a Child Restraint in a Rear
for the LATCH System
Outside Seat Position
1. Find the LATCH anchorages for the seating
position you want to use, where the bottom of the
seatback meets the back of the seat cushion.
2. Put the child restraint on the seat.
3. Attach and tighten the LATCH attachments on the
child restraint to the LATCH anchorages in the
vehicle. The child restraint instructions will show
you how.
If your child restraint is equipped with the LATCH
system, see Lower Anchorages and Top Tethers for
on page 1-39 if the child restraint has one.
4. If the child restraint is forward-facing, attach and
tighten the top tether to the top tether anchorage.
The child restraint instructions will show you
If your child restraint does not have the LATCH system,
you will be using the lap-shoulder belt to secure the
child restraint in this position. Be sure to follow the
instructions that came with the child restraint. Secure
the child in the child restraint when and as the
instructions say.
5. Push and pull the child restraint in different
directions to be sure it is secure.
To remove the child restraint, simply unhook the top
tether from the top tether anchorage and then
disconnect the LATCH attachments from the LATCH
anchorages.
1. Put the restraint on the seat.
2. Pick up the latch plate, and run the lap and shoulder
portions of the vehicle’s safety belt through or
around the restraint. The child restraint instructions
will show you how.
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3. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
4. Pull the rest of the shoulder belt all the way out of
the retractor to set the lock.
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5. To tighten the belt, push down on the child restraint,
pull the shoulder portion of the belt to tighten the
lap portion of the belt and feed the shoulder
belt back into the retractor. If you are using a
forward-facing child restraint, you may find it helpful
to use your knee to push down on the child
restraint as you tighten the belt.
6. Push and pull the child restraint in different
directions to be sure it is secure.
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s
safety belt and let it go back all the way. The safety
belt will move freely again and be ready to work for an
adult or larger child passenger.
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Securing a Child Restraint in a
Center Rear Seat Position
Four–Door Models
If your child restraint is equipped with the LATCH
system, see Lower Anchorages and Top Tethers for
on page 1-39 if the child has one.
1. Make the belt as long as possible by tilting the latch
plate and pulling it along the belt.
If your child restraint does not have the LATCH system,
you will be using the lap belt to secure the child
restraint in this position.
2. Put the restraint on the seat.
The word CENTER is on both the buckle and latch
plate. Also, the center buckle and latch plate are
a different color than the two outboard buckles and
latch plates.
3. Run the vehicle’s safety belt through or around the
restraint. The child restraint instructions will show
you how.
Be sure to follow the instructions that came with the
child restraint. Secure the child restraint when and
as the instructions say.
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4. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
5. To tighten the belt, pull its free end while you push
down on the child restraint. If you are using a
forward-facing child restraint, you may find it helpful
to use your knee to push the child restraint as
you tighten the belt.
6. Push and pull the child restraint in different
directions to be sure it is secure.
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s
safety belt. It will be ready to work for an adult or
larger child passenger.
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Your vehicle has a right front passenger air bag.
Never put a rear-facing child restraint in this seat.
Here is why:
Securing a Child Restraint in the
Right Front Seat Position
{CAUTION:
A child in a rear-facing child restraint can be
seriously injured or killed if the right front
passenger’s air bag inflates. This is because
the back of the rear-facing child restraint
would be very close to the inflating air bag.
Always secure a rear-facing child restraint in a
rear seat.
If your child restraint is equipped with the LATCH
system, see Lower Anchorages and Top Tethers for
on page 1-39 if the child restraint has one.
A rear seat is a safer place to secure a forward facing
child restraint.
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If you install a forward-facing child restraint in the right
front seat, you will be using the lap-shoulder belt to
secure the child restraint in this position. Be sure
to follow the instructions that came with the child
restraint. Secure the child in the child restraint when
and as the instructions say.
1. Because your vehicle has a right front passenger
air bag, always move the seat as far back as it will
go before securing a forward-facing child restraint.
2. Put the restraint on the seat.
3. Pick up the latch plate, and run the lap and shoulder
portions of the vehicle’s safety belt through or
around the restraint. The child restraint instructions
will show you how.
4. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is
positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the
safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
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5. Pull the rest of the shoulder belt all the way out of
the retractor to set the lock.
6. To tighten the belt, push down on the child restraint,
pull the shoulder portion of the belt to tighten the
lap portion of the belt and feed the shoulder
belt back into the retractor. You may find it helpful
to use your knee to push down on the child
restraint as you tighten the belt.
7. Push and pull the child restraint in different
directions to be sure it is secure.
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s
safety belt and let it go back all the way. The safety
belt will move freely again and be ready to work for an
adult or larger child passenger.
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Supplemental Restraint
System (SRS)
{CAUTION:
This part explains the Supplemental Restraint
System (SRS) or air bag system.
You can be severely injured or killed in a crash
if you are not wearing your safety belt — even
if you have air bags. Wearing your safety belt
during a crash helps reduce your chance of
hitting things inside the vehicle or being
ejected from it. Air bags are designed to work
with safety belts, but do not replace them. Air
bags are designed to deploy only in moderate
to severe frontal and near frontal crashes.
They are not designed to inflate in rollover,
rear or low-speed frontal crashes, or in many
side crashes. And, for some unrestrained
occupants, air bags may provide less
Your vehicle has air bags – one air bag for the driver
and another air bag for the right front passenger.
Frontal air bags are designed to help reduce the risk of
injury from the force of an inflating air bag. But these
air bags must inflate very quickly to do their job
and comply with federal regulations.
Here are the most important things to know about the
air bag system:
protection in frontal crashes than more
forceful air bags have provided in the past.
Everyone in your vehicle should wear a safety
belt properly — whether or not there is an air
bag for that person.
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CAUTION: (Continued)
{CAUTION:
Neither the vehicle’s safety belt system nor its
air bag system is designed for them. Young
children and infants need the protection that a
child restraint system can provide. Always
secure children properly in your vehicle. To
Air bags inflate with great force, faster than the
blink of an eye. If you’re too close to an
inflating air bag, as you would be if you were
leaning forward, it could seriously injure you.
Safety belts help keep you in position before
and during a crash. Always wear your safety
belt, even with air bags. The driver should sit
as far back as possible while still maintaining
control of the vehicle.
There is a air bag
readiness light on the
instrument panel, which
shows AIR BAG.
{CAUTION:
Anyone who is up against, or very close to,
any air bag when it inflates can be seriously
injured or killed. Air bags plus lap-shoulder
belts offer the best protection for adults, but
not for young children and infants.
The system checks the air bag electrical system for
malfunctions. The light tells you if there is an electrical
for more information.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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If your vehicle strikes something that will move or
deform, such as a parked car, the threshold level will
be higher. The air bag is not designed to inflate in
rollovers, rear impacts, or in many side impacts because
inflation would not help the occupant.
{CAUTION:
If something is between an occupant and an
air bag, the bag might not inflate properly or it
might force the object into that person causing
severe injury or even death. The path of an
inflating air bag must be kept clear. Don’t put
anything between an occupant and an air bag,
and don’t attach or put anything on the
steering wheel hub or on or near any other air
bag covering.
In any particular crash, no one can say whether an air
bag should have inflated simply because of the damage
to a vehicle or because of what the repair costs were.
Inflation is determined by the angle of the impact
and how quickly the vehicle slows down in frontal or
near-frontal impacts.
The air bag system is designed to work properly under
a wide range of conditions, including off-road usage.
Observe safe driving speeds, especially on rough
terrain. As always, wear your safety belt. See Off-Road
page 4-16 for more tips on off-road driving.
When Should an Air Bag Inflate?
An air bag is designed to inflate in a moderate to severe
frontal, or near-frontal crash. The air bag will inflate
only if the impact speed is above the system’s designed
“threshold level.” If your vehicle goes straight into a
wall that doesn’t move or deform, the threshold level is
about 9 to 13 mph (14 to 21 km/h). The threshold
level can vary, however, with specific vehicle design, so
that it can be somewhat above or below this range.
What Makes an Air Bag Inflate?
In an impact of sufficient severity, the air bag sensing
system detects that the vehicle is in a crash. The
sensing system triggers a release of gas from the
inflator, which inflates the air bag. The inflator, air bag,
and related hardware are all part of the air bag
modules inside the steering wheel and in the instrument
panel in front of the right front passenger.
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The parts of the bag that come into contact with you
may be warm, but not too hot to touch. There will
be some smoke and dust coming from the vents in the
deflated air bags. Air bag inflation does not prevent
the driver from seeing or being able to steer the vehicle,
nor does it stop people from leaving the vehicle.
How Does an Air Bag Restrain?
In moderate to severe frontal or near-frontal collisions,
even belted occupants can contact the steering wheel or
the instrument panel. Air bags supplement the
protection provided by safety belts. Air bags distribute
the force of the impact more evenly over the occupant’s
upper body, stopping the occupant more gradually.
But air bags would not help you in many types of
collisions, including rollovers, rear impacts and many
side impacts, primarily because an occupant’s motion is
not toward those air bags. Air bags should never be
regarded as anything more than a supplement to safety
belts, and then only in moderate to severe frontal or
near-frontal collisions.
{CAUTION:
When an air bag inflates, there is dust in the
air. This dust could cause breathing problems
for people with a history of asthma or other
breathing trouble. To avoid this, everyone in
the vehicle should get out as soon as it is safe
to do so. If you have breathing problems but
can’t get out of the vehicle after an air bag
inflates, then get fresh air by opening a
window or a door. If you experience breathing
problems following an air bag deployment, you
should seek medical attention.
What Will You See After an Air Bag
Inflates?
After the air bag inflates, it quickly deflates, so quickly
that some people may not even realize the air bag
inflated. Some components of the air bag module – the
steering wheel hub for the driver’s air bag, or the
instrument panel for the right front passenger’s
bag – will be hot for a short time.
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In many crashes severe enough to inflate the air bag,
windshields are broken by vehicle deformation.
Additional windshield breakage may also occur from the
right front passenger air bag.
Notice: If you damage the covering for the driver’s
or the right front passenger’s air bag, the bag
may not work properly. You may have to replace the
air bag module in the steering wheel or both the
air bag module and the instrument panel for
the right front passenger’s air bag. Do not open or
break the air bag coverings.
• Air bags are designed to inflate only once. After an
air bag inflates, you will need some new parts for
your air bag system. If you do not get them, the air
bag system will not be there to help protect you
in another crash. A new system will include air bag
modules and possibly other parts. The service
manual for your vehicle covers the need to replace
other parts.
If your vehicle ever gets into a lot of water – such as
water up to the carpeting or higher – or if water enters
your vehicle and soaks the carpet, the air bag
controller can be soaked and ruined. If this ever
happens, and then you start your vehicle, the damage
could make the air bags inflate, even if there is no crash.
You would have to replace the air bags as well as the
sensors and related parts. If your vehicle is ever in
a flood, or if it is exposed to water that soaks the carpet,
you can avoid needless repair costs by turning off the
vehicle immediately and disconnecting the battery
cables. Do not let anyone start the vehicle under any
circumstances. See your dealer for service.
• Your vehicle is equipped with a crash sensing and
diagnostic module, which records information
about the air bag system. The module records
information about the readiness of the system, when
the system commands air bag inflation and
driver’s safety belt usage at deployment.
• Let only qualified technicians work on your air bag
systems. Improper service can mean that an air
bag system will not work properly. See your dealer
for service.
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Servicing Your Air Bag-Equipped
Vehicle
{CAUTION:
Air bags affect how your vehicle should be serviced.
There are parts of the air bag system in several places
around your vehicle. You don’t want the system to
inflate while someone is working on your vehicle. Your
dealer and the service manual have information
about servicing your vehicle and the air bag system. To
purchase a service manual, see Service Publications
For up to 15 seconds after the ignition key is
turned off and the battery is disconnected, an
air bag can still inflate during improper
service. You can be injured if you are close to
an air bag when it inflates. Avoid wires
wrapped with yellow tape or yellow
connectors. They are probably part of the air
bag system. Be sure to follow proper service
procedures, and make sure the person
performing work for you is qualified to do so.
The air bag system does not need regular maintenance.
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Adding Equipment to Your Air
Bag-Equipped Vehicle
Restraint System Check
Checking Your Restraint Systems
Q: If I add a push bumper or a bicycle rack to the
front of my vehicle, will it keep the air bags
from working properly?
Now and then, make sure the safety belt reminder light
and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors
and anchorages are working properly. Look for any other
loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see
anything that might keep a safety belt system from doing
its job, have it repaired.
A: As long as the push bumper or bicycle rack is
attached to your vehicle so that the vehicle’s
basic structure isn’t changed, it’s not likely to keep
the air bags from working properly in a crash.
Torn or frayed safety belts may not protect you in a
crash. They can rip apart under impact forces. If a belt
is torn or frayed, get a new one right away.
Q: Is there anything I might add to the front of the
vehicle that could keep the air bags from
working properly?
Also look for any opened or broken air bag covers, and
have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag system
does not need regular maintenance.)
A: Yes. If you add things that change your vehicle’s
frame, bumper system, front end sheet metal or
height, they may keep the air bag system
from working properly. Also, the air bag system
may not work properly if you relocate any of the air
bag sensors. If you have any questions about
this, you should contact Customer Assistance
before you modify your vehicle. The phone
numbers and addresses for Customer Assistance
are in Step Two of the Customer Satisfaction
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If you’ve had a crash, do you need new belt or LATCH
system parts?
Replacing Restraint System Parts
After a Crash
After a very minor collision, nothing may be necessary.
But if the belts were stretched, as they would be if
worn during a more severe crash, then you need
new parts.
{CAUTION:
If the LATCH system was being used during a more
severe crash, you may need new LATCH system parts.
A crash can damage the restraint systems in
your vehicle. A damaged restraint system may
not properly protect the person using it,
resulting in serious injury or even death in a
crash. To help make sure your restraint
systems are working properly after a crash,
have them inspected and any necessary
replacements made as soon as possible.
If belts are cut or damaged, replace them. Collision
damage also may mean you will need to have LATCH
system, safety belt or seat parts repaired or replaced.
New parts and repairs may be necessary even if the belt
or LATCH system wasn’t being used at the time of
the collision.
If an air bag inflates, you’ll need to replace air bag
system parts. See the part on the air bag system earlier
in this section.
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Keys
{CAUTION:
Leaving children in a vehicle with the ignition
key is dangerous for many reasons. They
could operate the power windows or other
controls or even make the vehicle move. The
children or others could be badly injured or
even killed. Do not leave the keys in a vehicle
with children.
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One key is used for the
ignition, the doors and all
other locks.
Remote Keyless Entry System
If equipped, the remote keyless entry system operates
on a radio frequency subject to Federal Communications
Commission (FCC) Rules and with Industry Canada.
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
1. This device may not cause interference, and
2. This device must accept any interference received,
including interference that may cause undesired
operation of the device.
This device complies with RSS-210 of Industry Canada.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
When a new vehicle is delivered, the dealer removes
the metal plate from the key ring and gives it to the first
owner.
1. This device may not cause interference, and
2. This device must accept any interference received,
including interference that may cause undesired
operation of the device.
The metal plate has a code on it that tells your dealer or
a qualified locksmith how to make extra keys. Keep
the code in a safe place. If you lose your keys, you’ll be
able to have new ones made easily using this code.
Changes or modifications to this system by other than
an authorized service facility could void authorization to
use this equipment.
information.
Notice: If you ever lock your keys in your vehicle,
you may have to damage the vehicle to get in.
Be sure you have spare keys.
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At times you may notice a decrease in range. This is
normal for any remote keyless entry system. If the
transmitter does not work or if you have to stand closer
to your vehicle for the transmitter to work, try this:
Remote Keyless Entry System
Operation
If your vehicle has this feature, you can lock and unlock
your doors from about 3 feet (1 m) up to 30 feet
(9 m) away using the remote keyless entry transmitter
supplied with your vehicle.
• Check the distance. You may be too far from your
vehicle. You may need to stand closer during
rainy or snowy weather.
With the remote keyless entry system, your vehicle will
have an entry lighting feature. See “Entry Lighting”
• Check the location. Other vehicles or objects may
be blocking the signal. Take a few steps to the
left or right, hold the transmitter higher, and
try again.
The following functions are
available with the remote
keyless entry system:
• Check to determine if battery replacement or
resynchronization is necessary. See “Battery
Replacement” and “Resynchronization” under
“Remote Keyless Entry System Operation” following
this section.
• If you are still having trouble, see your dealer or a
qualified technician for service.
LOCK: Press LOCK to lock all doors.
UNLOCK: Press UNLOCK to unlock the driver’s door.
If the UNLOCK button is pressed again within
five seconds, all remaining doors will be unlocked.
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Matching Transmitter(s) to Your
Vehicle
Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to
prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle.
If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can
be purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring
any remaining transmitters with you when you go to
your dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement
transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters
must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded the
new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock
your vehicle. Each vehicle can have a maximum of two
transmitters matched to it.
Battery Replacement
To replace the battery in the transmitter do the following:
1. Use a coin or similar object to separate the
bottom half from the top half of the transmitter.
Under normal use, the battery in your remote keyless
entry transmitter should last about two years.
2. Remove the battery and replace it with the new
one. Make sure the positive side of the battery
faces down. For battery replacement, use a 3-volt
battery, type CR2032 or equivalent.
You can tell the battery is weak if the transmitter won’t
work at the normal range in any location. If you have
to get close to your vehicle before the transmitter works,
it’s probably time to change the battery.
3. Read the instructions inside the case.
Notice: When replacing the battery, use care not to
touch any of the circuitry. Static from your body
transferred to these surfaces may damage the
transmitter.
4. Put the two halves back together. Make sure the
cover is on tight so water won’t get in.
5. Check the operation of the transmitter with your
vehicle. If the transmitter does not work, try
resynchronizing the transmitter with the receiver.
See “Resynchronization” following.
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Resynchronization
Doors and Locks
Your remote keyless entry system is equipped with a
security system that prevents anyone from recording and
playing back your signal. The transmitter does not
send the same signal twice to the receiver. The receiver
will not respond to a signal that has been sent to it
more than once.
Door Locks
{CAUTION:
To resynchronize your transmitter and receiver, follow
these directions:
Unlocked doors can be dangerous.
• Passengers — especially children — can
easily open the doors and fall out of a
moving vehicle. When a door is locked, the
handle will not open it. You increase the
chance of being thrown out of the vehicle
in a crash if the doors are not locked. So,
wear safety belts properly and lock the
doors whenever you drive.
• Young children who get into unlocked
vehicles may be unable to get out. A child
can be overcome by extreme heat and can
suffer permanent injuries or even death
from heat stroke. Always lock your vehicle
whenever you leave it.
1. Stand close to your vehicle.
2. Press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on
the transmitter at the same time for at least seven
seconds.
During this time, the doors should lock and unlock
once. This confirms the resynchronization. If
the doors do not lock and unlock, see your dealer
for service.
• Outsiders can easily enter through an
unlocked door when you slow down or
stop your vehicle. Locking your doors can
help prevent this from happening.
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There are several ways to lock and unlock your vehicle.
Power Door Locks
From the outside, use your key. To lock the door,
turn the key toward the front of the vehicle. To unlock
the door, turn the key toward the rear.
If your vehicle has power door locks, the switch is
located on the driver’s door armrest.
To lock all the doors and
the tailgate, press the right
side of the switch. To
unlock the doors and the
tailgate, press the left
side of the switch.
To lock the door from the
inside, push down on the
manual lock rod located
on the door. To unlock it,
pull up on the manual
lock rod.
You can lock all doors from the outside by inserting the
key into either front door lock cylinder, and turning it
toward the front of the vehicle.
If your vehicle is equipped with the remote keyless entry
system, you can use the transmitter to lock and unlock
the doors. See “Remote Keyless Entry System”
previously in this section.
If your vehicle is equipped with the remote keyless entry
system, you can also lock and unlock all doors using
the remote keyless entry transmitter. See Remote
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Using the Rear Door Security Lock
Rear Door Security Locks
1. Move the lever down to engage the lock.
2. Close the door.
Your vehicle may be equipped with rear door security
locks that help prevent passengers from opening
the rear doors of your vehicle from the inside.
3. Do the same to the other rear door lock.
The rear security door
locks are located on the
inside of the rear doors.
The rear doors of your vehicle cannot be opened from
the inside when this feature is in use.
Opening a Rear Door When the
Security Lock Is On
If you want to open a rear door when the security lock
is on, unlock the door, then open the door from the
outside.
If you don’t cancel the security lock feature, adults or
older children who ride in the rear won’t be able to open
the rear door from the inside. You should let adults
and older children know how these security locks work,
and how to cancel the locks.
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Canceling a Rear Door Security Lock
Tailgate
1. Unlock the door from the inside and open the door
from the outside.
{CAUTION:
2. Move the lever up to disengage the lock.
3. Do the same for the other rear door.
The rear door locks will now work normally.
It can be dangerous to drive with the tailgate
open because carbon monoxide (CO) gas can
come into your vehicle. You can not see or
smell CO. It can cause unconsciousness and
even death. If you must drive with the tailgate
open or if electrical wiring or other cable
connections must pass through the seal
between the body and the tailgate:
Leaving Your Vehicle
If you are leaving the vehicle, take your keys, open your
door and set the locks from inside. Then get out and
close the door.
• Make sure all other windows are shut.
• Turn the fan on your heating or cooling
system to its highest speed and select the
control setting that will force outside air
into your vehicle. See Climate Control
• If you have air outlets on or under the
instrument panel, open them all the way.
Tailgate Lock Release
Use your key to lock or unlock your tailgate.
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Windows
{CAUTION:
Leaving children, helpless adults, or pets in a
vehicle with the windows closed is dangerous.
They can be overcome by the extreme heat
and suffer permanent injuries or even death
from heat stroke. Never leave a child, a
helpless adult, or a pet alone in a vehicle,
especially with the windows closed in warm or
hot weather.
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Express-Down Window
Manual Windows
The AUTO switch for the driver’s window has an
express down feature. To use express down, push the
switch all the way down. Release the switch and
the window will lower completely. Pull up on the switch
lightly and release it to stop the window partway.
Use the window crank to open and close each window.
Power Windows
Window Lock
Press the right side of the switch to activate the lock
feature. The passenger windows will not operate while
this feature is active. Press the left side of the switch
to return to normal window operation.
While the window lock switch is engaged, the driver’s
window will still operate but all passenger window
switches will not operate.
Sun Visors
To block out glare, you can swing down the visors.
You can also swing them to the side. The visors may
have extensions to give additional sun blockage.
With power windows, switches on the driver’s door
operate each window while the ignition is on. Push down
on the front of the switch to lower a window and lift
up the front of the switch to raise a window.
Visor Vanity Mirror
If your vehicle has this feature, pull down the visor to
expose the passenger’s side vanity mirror.
There is an individual control near each window.
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Ignition Positions
Starting and Operating Your
Vehicle
With the key in the ignition
switch, you can turn it to
four different positions.
New Vehicle Break-In
Notice: Your vehicle does not need an elaborate
“break-in.” But it will perform better in the long run
if you follow these guidelines:
• Keep your speed at 55 mph (88 km/h) or less for
the first 500 miles (805 km).
• Do not drive at any one speed — fast or
slow — for the first 500 miles (805 km). Do not
make full-throttle starts.
LOCK (A): This is the only position from which you can
remove the key. This position locks your steering
wheel, ignition and automatic transmission.
• Avoid making hard stops for the first 200 miles
(322 km) or so. During this time your new
brake linings are not yet broken in. Hard stops
with new linings can mean premature wear
and earlier replacement. Follow this breaking-in
guideline every time you get new brake
linings.
If you have an automatic transmission, the ignition
switch can’t be turned to LOCK unless the shift lever is
in PARK (P).
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ACC (ACCESSORY) (B): This is the position in which
you can operate your electrical accessories or items
plugged into the accessory power outlets. It also unlocks
the steering wheel and ignition. Use this position if
your vehicle must be pushed or towed.
{CAUTION:
On manual transmission vehicles, turning the
key to LOCK will lock the steering column and
result in a loss of ability to steer the vehicle.
This could cause a collision. If you need to
turn the engine off while the vehicle is moving,
turn the key only to ACC. Do not push the key
in while the vehicle is moving.
ON (C): This is the position that the switch returns to
after you start your engine and release the switch.
The switch stays in ON while the engine is running. But
even while the engine is not running, you can use
ON to operate your electrical accessories and to display
some instrument panel cluster warning and indicator
lights.
START (D): This is the position that starts the engine.
When the engine starts, release the key. The ignition
switch will return to ON for normal driving.
Notice: Using a tool to force the key from the
ignition switch could cause damage or break the
key. Use the correct key and turn the key only with
your hand. Make sure the key is all the way in. If
it is, turn the steering wheel left and right while you
turn the key hard. If none of this works, then
your vehicle needs service.
When the engine is not running, ACC and ON allow you
to operate your electrical accessories, such as the
radio or items plugged into the accessory power outlets.
A warning tone will sound if you open the driver’s
door while the ignition is in ACC or LOCK and the key
is in the ignition.
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Notice: Holding your key in START for longer than
15 seconds at a time will cause your battery to
be drained much sooner. And the excessive heat
can damage your starter motor. Wait about
15 seconds between each try to help avoid draining
your battery or damaging your starter.
Starting Your Engine
Automatic Transmission
Move your shift lever to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N).
Your engine won’t start in any other position — that’s a
safety feature. To restart when you’re already moving,
use NEUTRAL (N) only.
2. If it doesn’t start, push the accelerator pedal
one-third of the way down. Hold it there, for
not more than 15 seconds at a time, while you turn
your key to START. When the engine starts, let
go of the key and release the pedal. Wait about
15 seconds between each try.
Notice: Do not try to shift to PARK (P) if your
vehicle is moving. If you do, you could damage the
transmission. Shift to PARK (P) only when your
vehicle is stopped.
3. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then
stops), it could be flooded with too much gasoline.
Try pushing your accelerator pedal all the way to the
floor and holding it there as you hold the key in
START for about three seconds. If the vehicle starts
briefly but then stops again, do the same thing,
but this time keep the pedal down for five or
six seconds. This clears the extra gasoline from the
engine.
Manual Transmission
The shift lever should be in NEUTRAL and the parking
brake engaged. Hold the clutch pedal to the floor
and start the engine. Your vehicle won’t start if the clutch
pedal is not all the way down — that’s a safety
feature.
1. With your foot off the accelerator pedal, turn your
ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let
go of the key.
Notice: Your engine is designed to work with the
electronics in your vehicle. If you add electrical
parts or accessories, you could change the way the
engine operates. Before adding electrical equipment,
check with your dealer. If you do not, your engine
might not perform properly.
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To Use the Engine Coolant Heater
Engine Coolant Heater
1. Turn off the engine.
2. Open the hood and unwrap the electrical cord. It is
located at the front of the engine compartment on
the driver’s side.
{CAUTION:
Plugging the cord into an ungrounded outlet
could cause an electrical shock. Also, the
wrong kind of extension cord could overheat
and cause a fire. You could be seriously
injured. Plug the cord into a properly grounded
three-prong 110-volt AC outlet. If the cord will
not reach, use a heavy-duty three-prong
extension cord rated for at least 15 amps.
If your vehicle has this feature, in very cold weather,
0°F (18°C) or colder, the engine coolant heater can help.
You’ll get easier starting and better fuel economy
during engine warm-up. Usually, the coolant heater
should be plugged in a minimum of four hours prior to
starting your vehicle. At temperatures above 32°F (0°C),
use of the coolant heater is not required.
3. Plug it into a normal, grounded 110-volt AC outlet.
4. Before starting the engine, be sure to unplug
and store the cord as it was before to keep it away
from moving engine parts. If you don’t, it could
be damaged.
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How long should you keep the coolant heater plugged
in? The answer depends on the outside temperature, the
kind of oil you have, and some other things. Instead
of trying to list everything here, we ask that you contact
your dealer in the area where you’ll be parking your
vehicle. The dealer can give you the best advice for that
particular area.
PARK (P): This position locks your rear wheels. It’s the
best position to use when you start your engine
because your vehicle can’t move easily.
{CAUTION:
It is dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the
shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the
parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
Automatic Transmission Operation
There are several different positions for your shift lever.
Do not leave your vehicle when the engine is
running unless you have to. If you have left the
engine running, the vehicle can move
suddenly. You or others could be injured. To
be sure your vehicle will not move, even when
you are on fairly level ground, always set your
parking brake and move the shift lever to
page 2-25. If you are pulling a trailer, see
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REVERSE (R): Use this gear to back up.
Notice: Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your vehicle
is moving forward could damage the transmission.
The repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
Shift to REVERSE (R) only after your vehicle is
stopped.
{CAUTION:
If you have four-wheel drive, your vehicle will
be free to roll — even if your shift lever is in
PARK (P) — if your transfer case is in
NEUTRAL. So, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear, two-wheel high (2H) or four-wheel
high (4H) or four-wheel low (4L) — not in
page 2-25
To rock your vehicle back and forth to get out of snow,
ice or sand without damaging your transmission,
page 4-44.
NEUTRAL (N): In this position, your engine doesn’t
connect with the wheels. To restart when you’re already
moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only. Also, use
NEUTRAL (N) when your vehicle is being towed.
Ensure the shift lever is fully in PARK (P) before starting
the engine. Your vehicle has an automatic transmission
shift lock control system. You have to fully apply
your regular brakes before you can shift from PARK (P)
while the ignition key is in ON. If you cannot shift out
of PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift lever, then push
the shift lever all the way into PARK (P) and release
the shift lever button as you maintain brake application.
Then press the shift lever button and move the shift
lever into the gear you wish. See Shifting Out of Park (P)
on page 2-27.
{CAUTION:
Shifting into a drive gear while your engine is
running at high speed is dangerous. Unless
your foot is firmly on the brake pedal, your
vehicle could move very rapidly. You could
lose control and hit people or objects. Do not
shift into a drive gear while your engine is
running at high speed.
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Notice: Shifting out of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N)
with the engine running at high speed may damage
the transmission. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Be sure the engine is not
running at high speed when shifting your vehicle.
HIGH (2H), or 34.9 mph (56.2 km/h) with the transfer
case in FOUR-WHEEL LOW (4L). If you move the shift
lever to a lower gear while driving faster than the
maximum allowable speed for the lower gear, the
transmission will not downshift until your speed drops
below the maximum speed for the lower gear.
DRIVE (D): This position is for normal driving.
LOW (L): This position gives you even more power but
lower fuel economy than SECOND (2). You can use
it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If the shift
lever is put in LOW (L), the transmission won’t shift
into low gear until the vehicle is going slow enough.
If you need more power for passing, and you’re:
• Going less than about 15 mph (25 km/h), push your
accelerator pedal about halfway down.
• Going about 15 mph (25 km/h) or more, push your
accelerator pedal all the way down.
Don’t shift into LOW (L) at speeds above 28.0 mph
(45.0 km/h) with the transfer case in FOUR-WHEEL
HIGH (4H) or TWO-WHEEL HIGH (2H), or at speeds
above 15.4 mph (24.8 km/h) with the transfer case
in FOUR-WHEEL LOW (4L). If you move the shift lever
to a lower gear while driving faster than the maximum
allowable speed for the lower gear, the transmission will
not downshift until your speed drops below the
maximum speed for the lower gear.
You’ll shift down to the next gear and have more
power.
SECOND (2): This position gives you more power but
lower fuel economy. You can use SECOND (2) on
hills. It can help control your speed as you go down
steep mountain roads, but then you would also want to
use your brakes off and on. In this position, if the
power mode selector switch is turned to P, the
transmission will not downshift into LOW (L). See “Power
Mode Selector Switch” later in this section.
Notice: Spinning the tires or holding the vehicle in
one place on a hill using only the accelerator
pedal may damage the transaxle. If you are stuck,
do not spin the tires. When stopping on a hill,
use the brakes to hold the vehicle in place.
Don’t shift into SECOND (2) unless you are going
slower than 63.4 mph (102 km/h) with the transfer case
in FOUR-WHEEL HIGH (4H) and TWO-WHEEL
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To convert the transmission to the three-speed mode,
press in the overdrive-off button and release it. The
OD/OFF indicator light on the instrument panel cluster
will come on. The overdrive-off button is for normal
driving. However, it also offers more power and lower
fuel economy than driving in the overdrive position.
Here are some times you might choose to drive with
the overdrive-off button engaged:
Overdrive Off
• While driving on hilly, winding roads.
• While going down a steep hill.
To return the transmission to the four-speed mode,
press in the overdrive-off button again. The OD/OFF
indicator light will go off. Disengaging the overdrive-off
button is for normal driving with the four-speed
automatic transmission. If you need more power for
passing, and you are:
If your vehicle has this feature, the overdrive-off button
is located on the left side of the shift lever. When
operating under normal conditions, the vehicle will
automatically default to overdrive when initially started
until it is disengaged. If overdrive is turned off and
the vehicle is turned off, when the vehicle is restarted,
overdrive will automatically turn back on. By operating
the overdrive off button, with the ignition in the ON
position, the four-speed automatic transmission
(three-speed plus overdrive) can be converted to a
three-speed automatic transmission. While in the
three-speed mode, the transmission will not shift into
the overdrive position.
• Going less than about 35 mph (55 km/h), push your
accelerator pedal about halfway down.
• Going about 35 mph (55 km/h), push your
accelerator all the way down.
If the transfer case shift lever is in the 4L position, the
four-speed automatic transmission will remain in
the three-speed mode.
2-19
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Power Mode
Manual Transmission Operation
Five-Speed
A power mode selector
switch is included with the
four-speed automatic
transmission.
This is your shift pattern.
Here’s how to operate your
transmission:
When you need more power for climbing hills or quicker
acceleration, press the P (power) switch. The POWER
indicator light on the instrument panel cluster will
come on. For normal driving, press the N (normal)
switch. The POWER indicator light will go off.
FIRST (1): Press the clutch pedal and shift into
FIRST (1). Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal as
you press the accelerator pedal.
You can shift into FIRST (1) when you’re going less
than 20 mph (32 km/h). If you’ve come to a complete
stop and it’s hard to shift into FIRST (1), put the
shift lever in NEUTRAL and let up on the clutch. Press
the clutch pedal back down. Then shift into FIRST (1).
The power mode delays the automatic transmission shift
points to allow for higher engine speeds in each gear.
The automatic transmission also has the ability to
provide SECOND (2) gear starts for improved traction
on slippery surfaces. The power mode selector
switch must be in the P mode and the transmission shift
lever in SECOND (2), which will remain in SECOND (2)
until you shift the vehicle to DRIVE (D).
SECOND (2): Press the clutch pedal as you let up
on the accelerator pedal and shift into SECOND (2).
Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press the
accelerator pedal.
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THIRD (3), FOURTH (4), FIFTH (5): Shift into
THIRD (3), FOURTH (4) and FIFTH (5) the same way
you do for SECOND (2). Slowly let up on the clutch
pedal as you press the accelerator pedal.
Shift Speeds
{CAUTION:
To stop, let up on the accelerator pedal and press the
brake pedal. Just before the vehicle stops, press
the clutch pedal and the brake pedal, and shift to
NEUTRAL.
If you skip a gear when you downshift, you
could lose control of your vehicle. You could
injure yourself or others. Don’t shift down
more than one gear at a time when you
downshift.
NEUTRAL: Use this position when you start or idle
your engine.
REVERSE (R): To back up, press down the clutch
pedal and shift into REVERSE (R). Let up on the clutch
pedal slowly while pressing the accelerator pedal.
If your speed drops below 20 mph (32 km/h), or if the
engine is not running smoothly, you should downshift to
the next lower gear. You may have to downshift two
or more gears to keep the engine running smoothly or
for good performance.
You cannot go from FIFTH (5) into REVERSE (R). If
you try, you will be locked out. You must first shift into
NEUTRAL, move the shift lever to the left, back to
the right, and then shift into REVERSE (R). This is a
safety feature.
Notice: Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your vehicle
is moving forward could damage the transmission.
The repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
Shift to REVERSE (R) only after your vehicle is
stopped.
Also, use REVERSE (R) along with the parking brake
for parking your vehicle.
2-21
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Transfer Case
Four-Wheel Drive
If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, you can send your
engine’s driving power to all four wheels for extra
traction. To shift out of two-wheel drive and into
four-wheel drive, move the transfer case shift lever to
FOUR-WHEEL HIGH (4H) or FOUR-WHEEL LOW (4L).
You should use TWO-WHEEL HIGH (2H) for most
normal driving. See “Transfer Case” following.
Notice: Driving on pavement in four-wheel drive for
an extended period of time may cause premature
wear on your vehicle’s powertrain. Do not drive
in four-wheel drive on pavement for extended
periods of time.
The transfer case shift lever is on the floor to the right
of the driver. Use this lever to shift into and out of
four-wheel drive. An indicator light comes on when the
transfer case is in four-wheel drive.
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Your vehicle’s transfer case shift lever may shake or
vibrate. This is normal and your vehicle does not require
service.
FOUR-WHEEL LOW (4L): This setting also engages
your front axle to give you extra traction and can
be used for driving downhill, uphill or on rocky terrain
when you’re driving slower than 35 mph (55 km/h).
TWO-WHEEL HIGH (2H): This setting is for driving in
most street and highway situations. Your front axle
is not engaged in two-wheel drive.
Remember that driving in FOUR-WHEEL HIGH (4H) or
FOUR-WHEEL LOW (4L) may reduce fuel economy.
Also, driving in four-wheel drive on dry pavement could
cause your tires to wear faster and make your transfer
case harder to shift.
FOUR-WHEEL HIGH (4H): This setting engages your
front axle to help drive your vehicle. Use FOUR-WHEEL
HIGH (4H) when you need extra traction, such as on
wet or icy roads, or in most off-road situations.
You can shift from TWO-WHEEL HIGH (2H) to
FOUR-WHEEL HIGH (4H) or from FOUR-WHEEL
HIGH (4H) to TWO-WHEEL HIGH (2H) at any speed if
your vehicle is going less than 60 mph (100 km/h)
and your wheels are straight ahead. Your front axle will
engage faster if you take your foot off the accelerator
pedal for a few seconds as you shift.
NEUTRAL (N): Shift to this setting only when your
vehicle needs to be towed.
{CAUTION:
Shifting Into or Out of FOUR-WHEEL
LOW (4L)
1. Stop your vehicle and shift your transmission to
NEUTRAL (N).
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the
transmission is in PARK (P), or if you have a
manual transmission, even if you are in gear.
You or someone else could be seriously
injured. Be sure to set the parking brake
before placing the transfer case in NEUTRAL.
2. Shift the transfer case in one continuous motion.
Don’t pause in NEUTRAL (N) as you shift from
FOUR-WHEEL LOW (4L) to FOUR-WHEEL HIGH (4H),
or your gears could clash.
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To set the parking brake, hold the brake pedal down
and pull up on the parking brake lever. If the ignition is
on, the brake system warning light will come on.
Parking Brake
To release the parking brake, hold the brake pedal
down. Pull the parking brake lever up until you can push
in the release button located on the end of the lever.
Hold the release button in as you move the lever all the
way down.
Notice: Driving with the parking brake on can
overheat the brake system and cause premature
wear or damage to brake system parts. Verify that
the parking brake is fully released and the brake
warning light is off before driving.
page 4-57.
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Shifting Into Park (P)
{CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle
if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can
roll. If you have left the engine running, the
vehicle can move suddenly. You or others
could be injured. To be sure your vehicle will
not move, even when you are on fairly level
ground, use the steps that follow. With
four-wheel drive, if your transfer case is in
NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free to roll,
even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be
sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not
in NEUTRAL. If you are pulling a trailer, see
2. Move the shift lever into PARK (P) by holding in the
button on the lever and pushing the lever all the
way toward the front of your vehicle.
3. If you have four-wheel drive, be sure the transfer
case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL (N).
4. Move the key to LOCK.
5. Remove the key and take it with you. If you can
leave your vehicle with the key in your hand, your
vehicle is in PARK (P).
1. Hold the brake pedal down with your right foot and
set the parking brake.
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Leaving Your Vehicle With the Engine
Running
Torque Lock
If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your
automatic transmission into PARK (P) properly,
the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the
parking pawl in the transmission. You may find it
difficult to pull the shift lever out of PARK (P). This is
called “torque lock.” To prevent torque lock, set
the parking brake and then shift into PARK (P) properly
before you leave the driver’s seat. To find out how,
{CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to leave your vehicle with
the engine running. Your vehicle could move
suddenly if the shift lever is not fully in
PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set.
When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of
PARK (P) before you release the parking brake.
If you have four-wheel drive and your transfer
case is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be free
to roll, even if your shift lever is in PARK (P).
So be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear – not in NEUTRAL.
If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another
vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the
pressure from the parking pawl in the transmission, so
you can pull the shift lever out of PARK (P).
And, if you leave the vehicle with the engine
running, it could overheat and even catch fire.
You or others could be injured. Don’t leave
your vehicle with the engine running unless
you have to.
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Shifting Out of Park (P)
Your vehicle has an automatic transmission shift lock
control system. You have to fully apply your regular
brakes before you can shift from PARK (P) when the
ignition is in the ON position. See Automatic
If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on
the shift lever — push the shift lever all the way
into PARK (P) and release the shift lever button as you
maintain brake application. Then press the shift lever
button and move the shift lever into the gear you wish to
be in.
If you ever hold the brake pedal down but still can’t shift
out of PARK (P), try this:
1. Apply the parking brake until the end of Step 6.
2. If the engine is running, turn it off. Turn the key to
ON or ACC.
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3. Find the access hole cover on the driver’s side of
the console, near the shift lever.
Parking Over Things That Burn
4. Remove the screw and cover.
5. Inside, you’ll see the return plate. Using your finger,
move the return plate toward the rear of the vehicle
until it stops.
6. Move the shift lever into the gear you want while,
while holding the return plate in the most rearward
position.
7. Have the vehicle fixed as soon as possible.
Parking Your Vehicle
Before you get out of your manual transmission vehicle,
put your shift lever in REVERSE (R) and firmly apply
the parking brake. Once the shift lever has been placed
into REVERSE (R) with the clutch pedal pressed in,
you can turn the ignition key to LOCK, remove the key
and release the clutch.
If you have four-wheel drive, be sure your transfer case
is in a drive gear. Your vehicle could roll if it isn’t.
{CAUTION:
page 4-57.
Things that can burn could touch hot exhaust
parts under your vehicle and ignite. Do not
park over papers, leaves, dry grass or other
things that can burn.
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Engine Exhaust
CAUTION: (Continued)
• Your vehicle was damaged when driving
over high points on the road or over road
debris.
• Repairs were not done correctly.
• Your vehicle or exhaust system had been
modified improperly.
{CAUTION:
Engine exhaust can kill. It contains the gas
carbon monoxide (CO), which you can not see
or smell. It can cause unconsciousness and
death.
If you ever suspect exhaust is coming into
your vehicle:
• Drive it only with all the windows down to
blow out any CO; and
You might have exhaust coming in if:
• Your exhaust system sounds strange or
different.
• Your vehicle gets rusty underneath.
• Your vehicle was damaged in a collision.
• Have your vehicle fixed immediately.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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Running Your Engine While You
Are Parked
{CAUTION:
It is better not to park with the engine running. But if
you ever have to, here are some things to know.
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle
if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can
roll. Do not leave your vehicle when the engine
is running unless you have to. If you have left
the engine running, the vehicle can move
suddenly. You or others could be injured. To
be sure your vehicle will not move, even when
you are on fairly level ground, always set your
parking brake and move the shift lever to
PARK (P).
{CAUTION:
Idling the engine with the climate control
system off could allow dangerous exhaust into
your vehicle. See the earlier Caution under
Also, idling in a closed-in place can let deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) into your vehicle even if
the climate control fan is at the highest setting.
One place this can happen is a garage.
Exhaust — with CO — can come in easily.
NEVER park in a garage with the engine
running.
Another closed-in place can be a blizzard.
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Mirrors
{CAUTION:
Manual Rearview Mirror
Four-wheel drive vehicles with the transfer
case in NEUTRAL will allow the vehicle to roll,
even if your shift lever is in PARK (P). So, be
sure the transfer case is in a drive gear — not
in NEUTRAL. Always set your parking brake.
An inside rearview mirror is attached to your
windshield. The mirror can be adjusted up and
down or side to side.
Follow the proper steps to be sure your vehicle will not
page 4-57.
The mirror may also be equipped with reading lamps.
The mirror can also be adjusted for day or night driving.
Pull the tab for night driving to reduce glare. Push
the tab for daytime driving.
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You can only adjust the mirrors when the ignition switch
is in ON or ACC.
Outside Manual Mirrors
Adjust these mirrors by hand so that you can see a little
of the side of your vehicle when you are sitting in a
comfortable driving position.
To adjust the mirrors do the following:
1. Move the selector switch to the L (left) or R (right)
to select the mirror you wish to adjust.
Outside Power Mirrors
2. Press the outer part of the four-way control pad,
located below the selector switch, that coincides
with the direction you want the mirror to go.
If your vehicle has power
mirrors, the selector switch
is located on the lower
left side of the instrument
panel.
3. Return the selector switch to the center position to
help prevent moving the mirror accidentally.
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Outside Convex Mirror
Storage Areas
Your passenger’s side mirror is convex. A convex
mirror’s surface is curved so you can see more from the
driver’s seat.
Glove Box
Use your key to lock and unlock the glove box. To open
the glove box, pull the latch toward you.
{CAUTION:
The glove box may have a two-position detent for
opening the door. Lower the door to the first detent for
access to the glove box. Pull it to the next detent
for further access.
A convex mirror can make things (like other
vehicles) look farther away than they really are.
If you cut too sharply into the right lane, you
could hit a vehicle on your right. Check your
inside mirror or glance over your shoulder
before changing lanes.
Cupholder(s)
Two cupholders are on the center console next to the
parking brake lever.
Coinholder(s)
Your instrument panel may have two coinholders
located to the left of the steering wheel.
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Your vehicle’s luggage carrier has side rails and may be
equipped with crossrails attached to the roof to secure
cargo.
Luggage Carrier
Use GM accessory racks that are compatible with your
luggage carrier for transporting sports equipment.
These are available through your GM dealer.
{CAUTION:
If you try to carry something on top of your
vehicle that is longer or wider than the luggage
carrier — like paneling, plywood, a mattress
and so forth — the wind can catch it as you
drive along. This can cause you to lose
control. What you are carrying could be
violently torn off, and this could cause you or
other drivers to have a collision, and of course
damage your vehicle. You may be able to carry
something like this inside. But, never carry
something longer or wider than the luggage
carrier on top of your vehicle.
The crossrails, if equipped, are adjustable, but are only
designed to move a limited amount. The front and
rear crossrails are not interchangeable. If you do remove
the crossrails, make sure to mark them with front or
rear. When replacing the front and rear crossrails, make
sure to but them back in the same position they
came from as the front rail is slightly longer than the
rear rail.
Just loosen the slider knobs at each end of the crossrail
to move them.
• The front crossrail has limited movement when
traveling rearward.
• The back crossrail has limited movement when
traveling forward.
After adjusting them, make sure both sides of the
crossrails are even, then tighten the slider knobs.
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• Tie the load to the tie down loops at both ends of
the crossrails to keep loads from shifting.
• If you need to carry long items, move the crossrails
as far apart as possible. Tie the load to the tie
downs provided. Do not tie the load so tightly that
the crossrails and side rails are damaged.
Notice: Loading cargo on the luggage carrier that
weighs more than 100 lbs. (45 kg) or hangs over the
rear or sides of the vehicle may damage your
vehicle. Load cargo so that it rests on the slats as
far forward as possible and against the side
rails, making sure to fasten it securely.
Don’t exceed the maximum vehicle capacity when
loading your vehicle. For more information on vehicle
page 4-51.
Be sure the cargo is properly loaded. Follow these
guidelines:
• Carrying small, heavy loads on the roof is not
recommended.
To prevent damage or loss of cargo as you’re driving,
check now and then to make sure the luggage
carrier and cargo are still securely fastened.
• Do not load cargo directly on the roof panel.
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Convenience Net
You may have a convenience net in the rear of your
vehicle. The net is not designed to store items during
off-road use. The net is not for larger, heavier items.
Attach the loops to the hooks located along the sides of
the rear cargo area. You may attach the convenience
net loops to either the forward or the rear hooks.
Cargo Cover
Luggage or other cargo placed in the luggage
compartment can be hidden from view by a luggage
compartment cover, if your vehicle has this feature.
However, the luggage compartment covers are
not designed to support items loaded on top of them,
and should not be used as a shelf.
Use the anchors in the rear of the vehicle to hook the
cargo cover in place.
information.
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The main components of your instrument panel are the following:
page 3-22.
M. Instrument Panel Brightness Thumbwheel. See
“Instrument Panel Brightness” under Interior Lamps
on page 3-16.
O. Instrument Panel Fuse Block. See “Instrument Panel
page 5-94.
E. Windshield Wipers Lever. See “Windshield Wipers”
on page 3-4.
Q. Cigarette Lighter/Accessory Power Outlet (If
page 3-18.
G. Rear Window Defogger Button (If Equipped). See
“Rear Window Defogger” under Climate Control
R. Power Mode Selector Button (If Equipped). See
“Power Mode” under Automatic Transmission
H. Cruise Control Button (If Equipped). See “Cruise
Control” under Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
on page 3-6.
page 3-19.
page 3-19.
J. Rear Window Washer/Wiper Button (If Equipped).
See “Rear Window Washer/Wiper” under Turn
on page 3-39.
on page 3-22.
page 2-33.
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The hazard warning button
is located on the
Hazard Warning Flashers
instrument panel near the
comfort controls.
Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what
position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.
Press this button to make the front and rear turn signal
lamps flash on and off. Press the button again to
turn the flashers off.
When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn
signals won’t work.
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They
also let police know you have a problem. Your front
and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.
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Other Warning Devices
Tilt Wheel
If you carry reflective triangles, you can set one up at
the side of the road about 300 feet (100 m) behind your
vehicle.
If your vehicle has a tilt wheel, you can adjust the
steering wheel before you drive. You can raise it to the
highest level to give your legs more room when you
exit and enter your vehicle.
Horn
To sound the horn, press the portion of your steering
wheel marked with the horn symbol.
The lever that allows you to tilt the steering wheel is
located on the left side of the steering wheel column.
To tilt the wheel, hold the wheel and move the lever
down. Then move the wheel to a comfortable position
and release the lever to lock the wheel in place.
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Turn and Lane-Change Signals
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
The turn signal has an upward (for right) and a
downward (for left) position. These positions allow you
to signal a turn or a lane change.
To signal a turn, move the lever all the way up or down.
When the turn is finished, the lever will return
automatically.
An arrow on the instrument
panel cluster will flash in
the direction of the
turn or lane change.
The lever on the left side of the steering column
includes the following:
To signal a lane change, just raise or lower the lever
until the arrow starts to flash. Hold it there until you
complete your lane change. The lever will return by itself
when you release it.
• Turn and Lane-Change Signals
• Headlamp High/Low-Beam Changer
• Flash-to-Pass
As you signal a turn or a lane change, if the arrows
don’t flash but just stay on, a signal bulb may be burned
out and other drivers won’t see your turn signal.
• Manual Operation of Headlamps and Parklamps
If a bulb is burned out, replace it to help avoid an
accident. If the arrows don’t go on at all when you signal
a turn, check the fuse and for burned-out bulbs. See
For information on exterior lamps, see Exterior Lamps
on page 3-13.
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Headlamp High/Low-Beam Changer
Windshield Wipers
First, you must have the headlamps on. For high beams,
push the turn signal lever toward the instrument
panel.
While the high beams are
on, a light on the
instrument panel cluster
also will be on. It will go
off when you switch to
low beam.
To switch back to low beams, pull the lever toward you.
Flash to Pass
Use this lever located on the right side of the steering
wheel to operate the windshield wipers and washers.
With the lever in the low-beam position, pull the lever
toward you to momentarily switch to high beam (to
signal that you are going to pass). When you release
the lever, the headlamps will return to low-beam
operation.
OFF: Move the lever to OFF to turn off the windshield
wipers.
INT (Intermittent): Move the stalk to INT (Intermittent)
then turn the inner band and choose the delay you
want. Turn the inner band up for longer intervals
between wiper cycles. Turn the band down for shorter
intervals.
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LO (Low Speed): For steady wiping at low speed,
move the stalk down to LO.
Windshield Washer
To wash your windshield, pull the stalk with the wiper
symbol on it toward you one time. When you release the
stalk, the washers will stop. The wiper will continue
wiping for about three cycles and will either stop or will
resume the speed you were using before. See
HI (High Speed): For higher speed wiping, move the
stalk down further to HI.
L(Mist): Move the lever all the way down to this
position for a single wiping cycle. Hold it there until the
windshield wipers start; then let go. The windshield
wipers will stop after one wipe. If you want more wipes,
hold the band at this position longer.
{CAUTION:
Remember that damaged wiper blades may prevent you
from seeing well enough to drive safely. To avoid
damage, be sure to clear ice and snow from the wiper
blades before using them. If they’re frozen to the
windshield, carefully loosen or thaw them. If your blades
do become damaged, get new blades or blade inserts.
In freezing weather, do not use your washer
until the windshield is warmed. Otherwise the
washer fluid can form ice on the windshield,
blocking your vision.
Heavy snow or ice can overload your wipers. A
circuit breaker will stop them until the motor cools. Clear
away snow or ice to prevent an overload.
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Rear Window Washer/Wiper
Cruise Control
If your vehicle has cruise control, you can maintain a
speed of about 25 mph (40 km/h) or more without
keeping your foot on the accelerator. This can really
help on long trips. Cruise control will not set at speeds
below about 25 mph (40 km/h).
To turn on your rear wiper,
push the upper button.
Push the same button
again to turn it off.
{CAUTION:
Cruise control can be dangerous where you
can not drive safely at a steady speed. So, do
not use your cruise control on winding roads
or in heavy traffic.
To spray washer fluid on the rear window, push the
lower button about halfway down. Washer fluid will spray
as long as you hold this button. To wash and wipe at
the same time, push the button all the way in.
Cruise control can be dangerous on slippery
roads. On such roads, fast changes in tire
traction can cause needless wheel spinning,
and you could lose control. Do not use cruise
control on slippery roads.
The washer and wiper will run as long as you hold this
button. To add washer fluid, see Windshield Washer
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Setting Cruise Control
1. Press the CRUISE
ON/OFF button located
on the instrument
panel to turn the
system on. The
indicator light in the
button will come
on. Wait at least one
second after turning the
system on before
setting a speed.
Once the CRUISE ON/OFF switch is turned on, it
will come on each time you start your vehicle
until you manually turn if off.
2. Accelerate to the speed you want, turn the end of
the lever to COAST SET and release it; the
CRUISE light will come on. Cruise will not set below
25 mph (40 km/h).
3. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal.
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Resuming a Set Speed
Increasing Speed While Using Cruise
Control
If you set your cruise control at a desired speed then
suspend cruise by applying the brake, by pressing
the clutch pedal if you have a manual transmission or
by pressing CANCEL, you don’t need to reset it.
There are two ways to go to a higher speed.
• Use the accelerator pedal to go to a higher speed.
Turn the switch on the lever down to COAST SET
and release it. Take your foot off the accelerator
pedal. You’ll now cruise at the higher speed.
You may resume your previously set speed by briefly
turning the switch to RESUME ACCEL (Accelerate),
provided your speed has not dropped below 25 mph
(40 km/h). If your speed has dropped below 25 mph
(40 km/h), accelerate to 25 mph (40 km/h) or greater
then turn the switch to RESUME ACCEL. There is
a short time delay after your speed is suspended until
you can reset the cruise control to your desired speed.
• Turn the switch on the lever up to RESUME
ACCEL. Hold the switch at RESUME ACCEL until
you get up to the speed you want, then release
the switch.
Reducing Speed While Using Cruise
Control
To reduce your speed, turn the switch and hold it down
in the COAST SET position until you reach the lower
speed you want, then release the switch.
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Passing Another Vehicle While Using
Cruise Control
Suspending Cruise Control
There are two ways to suspend cruise control:
Use the accelerator pedal to increase your speed.
When you take your foot off the pedal, your vehicle will
slow down to the cruise control speed you set earlier.
• Step lightly on the brake pedal, or push the clutch
pedal if you have a manual transmission.
• Push in the CANCEL button on the end of the
cruise control lever.
Using Cruise Control on Hills
How well your cruise control will work on hills depends
upon your speed, load and the steepness of the
hills. When going up steep hills, you may have to step
on the accelerator pedal to maintain your speed.
When going downhill, you may have to brake or shift to
a lower gear to keep your speed down. Of course,
applying the brake suspends cruise control. Many
drivers find this to be too much trouble and don’t use
cruise control on steep hills.
Ending Cruise Control
To end cruise control press CRUISE ON/OFF on the
instrument panel.
Erasing Speed Memory
Cruise control set speed memory is erased when you
turn off the CRUISE ON/OFF switch or anytime you turn
the ignition off.
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The exterior lamps control has three positions:
Exterior Lamps
OFF: Turn the control to this position to turn off all
lamps, except the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) or if
the Automatic Headlamp System is working.
;(Parking Lamps): Turn the control to this position
to turn on the parking lamps, together with the
following:
• Sidemarker Lamps
• Taillamps
• License Plate Lamp
• Instrument Panel Lights
P(Headlamps): Turn the control to this position to
turn on the headlamps, together with the previously
listed lamps and lights.
The lever on the left side of the steering column
operates the exterior lamps.
Turn the outside part of the lever to operate the lamps.
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When the DRL are on, only your headlamps will be on
at a reduced brightness. The taillamps, sidemarker
and other lamps won’t be on. Your instrument panel
won’t be lit up either.
Daytime Running Lamps
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) can make it easier for
others to see the front of your vehicle during the
day. DRL can be helpful in many different driving
conditions, but they can be especially helpful in the short
periods after dawn and before sunset. Fully functional
daytime running lamps are required on all vehicles
first sold in Canada.
When you move the exterior lamps control to the
headlamp position, your DRL will go off and your
headlamps will come on. The other lamps that come on
with your headlamps will also come on.
When it begins to get dark, the headlamps will
automatically switch from DRL to the regular headlamps.
See “Automatic Headlamp System” following.
The DRL system will make your headlamps come on at
a reduced brightness when the three following
conditions are met:
When you turn the exterior lamp control to off, the
regular lamps will go off and your headlamps will change
to the reduced brightness of DRL provided it is not
dark outside. DRL will also come on if only the parking
lamps are being used.
• The ignition is on with the engine running,
• the exterior lamps control is off or the parking lights
are on, and
• the parking brake is released.
As with any vehicle, you should turn on the regular
headlamp system when you need it.
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2. Then turn the ignition key to ON or START.
Automatic Headlamp System
• The Automatic Headlamp System will not turn on
under any conditions, even in darkness.
Your vehicle is equipped with an automatic light sensor
on top of the instrument panel, on the passenger’s
side of the vehicle, so be sure it is not covered. If it is,
the headlamps will remain on continuously.
• The DRL will not turn on.
The DRL and Automatic Headlamp System functions
will stay off with the ignition on, until you release
the parking brake. Once the parking brake is released
the DRL will turn on if it is daylight or the Automatic
Headlamp System will turn on if it is dark enough
outside.
There is a delay in the transition between the daytime
and nighttime operation of the DRL and the Automatic
Headlamp Systems so that driving under bridges or
bright overhead street lights does not affect the system.
The DRL and Automatic Headlamp Systems will only
be affected when the light sensor sees a change
in lighting lasting longer than this delay.
If you turn the ignition key to ON or START and then
set the parking brake, the DRL will turn off (in all
conditions) and the Automatic Headlamp System will
remain on (if dark enough outside). Any other uses
of the parking brake after the engine is turned on will
have no effect on the normal Automatic Headlamp
System operation.
When it is dark enough outside, or you are driving
through a parking garage, heavy overcast weather or a
tunnel, the system will turn on your low-beam
headlamps at normal brightness. Along with your
vehicle’s headlamps, the taillamps, sidemarker, parking
lamps and the instrument panel lights will also turn
on. The radio display will dim.
Headlamps On Reminder
As with any vehicle, you should turn on the regular
headlamps when you need them.
If you turn the ignition off, remove the key, open the
door and leave the lamps on, a tone will remind you to
turn off your lamps.
To temporarily disable your vehicle’s DRL and Automatic
Headlamp Systems functions, do the following:
1. Before turning the ignition key to ON or START, set
the parking brake.
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Dome Lamp
Interior Lamps
Instrument Panel Brightness
The thumbwheel for this
feature is located to the
left of the steering
wheel on the instrument
panel.
The dome lamp operates as follows:
Move the thumbwheel upward to brighten the instrument
panel lights or downward to dim them.
OFF: This position is to the left when you are sitting in
the driver’s seat. The dome lamp will stay off even
when a door is opened.
Center: The lamp will come on when a door is opened.
The dome lamp will turn off while all doors are shut.
ON: This position is to the right when you are sitting in
the driver’s seat. The dome lamp will turn on and
stay on whether or not a door is open.
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Entry Lighting
Reading Lamps
If your vehicle has remote keyless entry, it is equipped
with an entry lighting feature that controls your dome
lamp (and cargo lamp, if equipped). For the dome lamp
to operate as described below, the switch must be in
the middle position.
Your vehicle’s inside rearview mirror may have reading
lamps.
Your interior lamps will come on and stay on for a set
time whenever you press the UNLOCK button on
the remote keyless entry transmitter.
If you open any door, the lamps will stay on while the
door is open, then turn off automatically about 40
seconds after the last door is closed. If you press the
UNLOCK button on the remote keyless entry transmitter
and don’t open a door, the lamps will come on and
then turn off after about 40 seconds.
The lamps will turn off immediately if you turn the
ignition key to ON. When the ignition is on, the entry
lighting feature is inactive. The interior lamps will come
on only if they are turned on by the dome lamp
switch or one of the doors is opened.
Push the buttons on the bottom of the mirror to turn the
reading lamps on and off.
Cargo Lamp
When you press the LOCK button on the remote
keyless entry transmitter, the interior lamps will come on
for about three seconds, and then shut off.
Your vehicle may have a cargo lamp. The cargo lamp
comes on when any door is opened, and goes off when
all doors are shut.
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Certain power accessory plugs may not be compatible
to the power accessory outlet and could result in
blown vehicle or adapter fuses.
Accessory Power Outlets
If your vehicle has an accessory power outlet, you can
plug in auxiliary electrical equipment.
If you experience a problem see your dealer for
additional information on the power accessory plugs.
The accessory power outlet is located in the center
console near the parking brake.
When adding electrical equipment, be sure to follow the
proper installation instructions included with the
equipment.
To use the outlet, open the cover. When not using it,
always cover the outlet with the protective cap.
These circuits are protected by a fuse and have
maximum current levels.
Notice: Adding any electrical equipment to your
vehicle may damage it or keep other components
from working as they should. The repairs would not
be covered by your warranty. Check with your
dealer before adding electrical equipment.
Notice: Leaving electrical equipment on for
extended periods will drain the battery. Always turn
off electrical equipment when not in use and do
not plug in equipment that exceeds the maximum
amperage rating.
Notice: Improper use of the power outlet can cause
damage not covered by your warranty. Do not
hang any type of accessory or accessory bracket
from the plug because the power outlets are
designed for accessory power plugs only.
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Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter
Climate Controls
If your vehicle has a cigarette lighter, to use it the
ignition key must be in ON or ACC. Push the lighter in
all the way and let go. When it’s ready, it will pop
back out by itself.
Climate Control System
With this system you can control the heating, cooling
and ventilation for your vehicle.
Pull the door to open the ashtray. To remove it, press
down on the tab and pull the ashtray out. To reinstall the
ashtray, push it in until the tab latches.
If your vehicle has a rear ashtray, it is located on the
back of the center console. Push on the left side of the
ashtray. The ashtray will turn clockwise for usage.
To remove the rear ashtray, press down on the tab and
pull it out.
Notice: If you put papers or other flammable items
in the ashtray, hot cigarettes or other smoking
materials could ignite them and possibly damage
your vehicle. Never put flammable items in the
ashtray.
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Operation
6 (Floor): This mode directs half of the air to the
floor outlets with some air directed to the outboard
outlets (for the side windows) and some air directed to
the windshield.
9 (Fan): Move the lever away from OFF to turn the
system on. Slide the top right lever to the left or right to
increase or decrease the fan speed.
This lever can also be used to select defog or defrost
mode. Information on defogging and defrosting can
be found later in this section.
If the airflow seems low when the fan is at the highest
setting, the passenger compartment air filter, if
equipped, may need to be replaced. For more
on page 6-7.
: (Outside Air): Slide the lower right lever to the
right for outside air. With the lever in this position,
outside air will circulate throughout your vehicle.
Slide the top left lever to the left or right to direct the
airflow inside of your vehicle.
? (Recirculation): Slide the lower right lever to the
left for recirculated air. With the lever in this position
outside air and odors can be prevented from entering
your vehicle and also helps heat or cool the air
inside your vehicle more quickly.
To change the current mode, select one of the following:
H (Vent): This mode directs air to the instrument
panel outlets.
If the lever is in the middle of the two positions, you will
have both outside and recirculated air inside your
vehicle.
) (Bi-Level): This mode directs most of the air to the
instrument panel outlets, and then directs the remaining
air to the floor outlets.
If you are in city traffic, your vehicle is stopped and
idling or the weather is hot, the system may be switched
from the outside air mode to the recirculation mode.
To help prevent the air inside of your vehicle from
becoming too stale, be sure to return to outside air
periodically.
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Temperature Control: Slide the lever located on the
lower left side to change the temperature. Move it to the
right for warmer air and to the left for cooler air.
Without air conditioning, the air temperature cannot be
less than the outside air temperature.
Defogging and Defrosting
Fog on the inside of windows is a result of high humidity
(moisture) condensing on the cool window glass. This
can be minimized if the climate control system is
used properly. There are two modes to clear fog or frost
from your windshield. Use the defog mode to clear
the windows of fog or moisture and warm the
Air Conditioning (A/C): Press the air conditioning
(A/C) button to turn the air-conditioning system on or off.
When A/C is pressed, an indicator light in the button
will come on to let you know that the air conditioning is
activated.
passengers. Use the defrost mode to remove fog or
frost from the windshield more quickly.
- (Defog): This mode directs the air between the
windshield, side windows, instrument panel outlets and
the floor outlets. The air-conditioning compressor
will run automatically in this setting without pressing
A/C, unless the outside temperature is at or below
freezing.
On hot days, open the windows to let hot inside air
escape; then close them. This helps to reduce the time
it takes for your vehicle to cool down. It also helps
the system to operate more efficiently.
For quick cool down on hot days:
1. Select the vent mode.
1 (Defrost): This mode directs the air to the
windshield and the side windows. The air-conditioning
compressor will run automatically in this setting
without pressing A/C, unless the outside temperature is
at or below freezing. Do not drive the vehicle until all
the windows are clear.
2. Select the recirculation mode.
3. Select A/C.
4. Select the coolest temperature.
5. Select the highest fan speed.
The air-conditioning system removes moisture from the
air, so you may sometimes notice a small amount of
water dripping underneath your vehicle while idling
or after turning off the engine. This is normal.
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The rear window defogger will turn off automatically
about 15 minutes after the button is pressed. The
defogger can also be turned off by pressing the button
again or by turning off the engine.
Rear Window Defogger
If your vehicle has this feature, the rear window defogger
uses a warming grid to clear fog from the rear window.
Notice: Using a razor blade or sharp object to clear
the inside rear window may damage the rear
window defogger. Repairs would not be covered by
your warranty. Do not clear the inside of the rear
window with sharp objects.
The button is located on
the center of the
instrument panel, near the
vehicle’s comfort controls.
Outlet Adjustment
Use the air outlets located
in the center and outboard
sides of the instrument
panel, to change the
direction and amount of
the air flowing through
the vents.
The rear window defogger will only work when the
ignition is in ON.
=(Rear Defogger): Press the defogger button to turn
the rear window defogger on or off. An indicator light
in the button will come on to let your know that the rear
window defogger is activated. Be sure to clear as
much snow from the rear window as possible.
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Operation Tips
Passenger Compartment Air Filter
• Clear away any ice, snow or leaves from the air
inlets at the base of the windshield that may
block the flow of air into your vehicle.
All models come equipped from the factory with a slot in
the ventilation system that is ready to accept passenger
compartment air filters. These filters are available for
purchase from your dealer. You will need to install
two filters to provide the proper filtration.
• Use of non-GM approved hood deflectors may
adversely affect the performance of the system.
Both outside and recirculated air flows through these
filters and removes certain contaminates including pollen
and dust particles.
• Keep the path under the front seats clear of objects
to help circulate the air inside of your vehicle more
effectively.
Reductions in airflow which occur more quickly in dusty
areas, may indicate that the filters need to be replaced
earlier than listed in the maintenance schedule. For how
often to replace your air filters, see Maintenance
• If the airflow seems low when the fan is at the
highest setting, the passenger compartment
air filters, if equipped, may need to be replaced. For
more information, see “Passenger Compartment
Air Filter” following and Short Trip/City Scheduled
The access panel for the air filters is behind the
glove box.
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To install the air filters, do the following:
2. Lift the top tab on the cover to remove the filter
cover.
1. Lower the glove box door, then push in the sides of
the glove box to completely lower the door to allow
access to the slot where the air filters will be
installed.
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3. Install the lower filter by dropping it down into
the slot.
The grooves on the two filters must be lined up with
each other as well as with the ventilation housing
in order to install the filters properly. The tabs on the
filters should face outward towards you and
should be at the top of the filters. The arrows on the
filters should point to the driver’s side of the
vehicle.
4. Then line up the grooves of the second filter
with the lower one and slide it in on top of the
lower one.
5. Reverse the steps to remove the air filters and then
install new ones.
If you choose not to replace the filter after you remove
it, driving your vehicle without one will not cause
damage. However, the air will no longer be filtered.
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Warning lights come on when there may be or is a
problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. As you will
see in the details on the next few pages, some
warning lights come on briefly when you start the
engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are
familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed
when this happens.
Warning Lights, Gages and
Indicators
Warning Lights, Gages, and
Indicators
Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem
with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages
and warning lights work together to let you know when
there’s a problem with your vehicle.
This part describes the warning lights and gages that
may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you
locate them.
Warning lights and gages can signal that something is
wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause
an expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to
your warning lights and gages could also save you
or others from injury.
When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on
when you are driving, or when one of the gages
shows there may be a problem, check the section that
tells you what to do about it. Please follow this
manual’s advice. Waiting to do repairs can be
costly — and even dangerous. So please get to know
your warning lights and gages. They’re a big help.
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Instrument Panel Cluster
Your instrument cluster is designed to let you know at a glance how your vehicle is running. You’ll know how fast
you’re going, about how much fuel you have left, and many other things you’ll need to know to drive safely and
economically.
United States cluster shown, Canada similar
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Speedometer and Odometer
Tachometer
Your speedometer lets you see your speed in both
miles per hour (mph) and kilometers per hour (km/h).
Your odometer shows how far your vehicle has
been driven, in either miles (used in the United States)
or kilometers (used in Canada).
The tachometer shows engine speed in thousands of
revolutions per minute (rpm). You can use it while
driving to select correct shift points. The tachometer may
not return to zero when the engine is not running.
Notice: If you operate the engine with the
tachometer in the shaded warning area, your vehicle
could be damaged, and the damages would not
be covered by your warranty. Do not operate
the engine with the tachometer in the shaded
warning area.
Your vehicle’s odometer is tamper-resistant.
You may wonder what happens if your vehicle needs a
new odometer installed. The new one is set at zero.
Then a label is attached on the driver’s door to show the
old reading and when the new one was installed.
Trip Odometer
Safety Belt Reminder Light
The trip odometer can tell you how far your vehicle has
been driven since you last set the trip odometer to
zero. The button located to the right of the odometer
display allows you to switch between the odometer and
the two trip odometers. Press the button once to
switch to TRIP A and again to switch to TRIP B. To
return the display to the odometer reading, press the trip
odometer button again.
When the key is turned to ON or START, a tone will
come on for several seconds to remind people to fasten
their safety belts, unless the driver’s safety belt is
already buckled.
The safety belt light will
also come on and stay on
until the driver’s belt is
buckled.
To set the trip odometers to zero, press and hold the
button.
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If the air bag readiness light stays on after you start the
vehicle or comes on when you are driving, your air
bag system may not work properly. Have your vehicle
serviced right away.
Air Bag Readiness Light
There is an air bag readiness light on the instrument
panel, which shows AIR BAG. The system checks
the air bag’s electrical system for malfunctions. The light
tells you if there is an electrical problem. The system
check includes the air bag modules, and the crash
sensing and diagnostic module. For more information on
the air bag system, see Supplemental Restraint
{CAUTION:
If the air bag readiness light stays on after you
start your vehicle, it means the air bag system
may not be working properly. The air bags in
your vehicle may not inflate in a crash, or they
could even inflate without a crash. To help
avoid injury to yourself or others, have your
vehicle serviced right away if the air bag
readiness light stays on after you start your
vehicle.
This light will come on
when you start your
vehicle, and it will flash for
a few seconds. Then
the light should go out.
This means the system
is ready.
The air bag readiness light should flash for a few
seconds when you turn the ignition key to ON. If the
light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will
be ready to warn you if there is a problem.
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Charging System Light
Brake System Warning Light
When the ignition is on, the brake system warning light
will come on when you set your parking brake. The
light will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release
fully. If it stays on after your parking brake is fully
released, it means you have a brake problem.
This light will come on
briefly when you turn on the
ignition, but the engine is
not running, as a check to
show you it is working.
Then it should go out when
the engine starts.
Your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system is divided into two
parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can still
work and stop you. For good braking, though, you need
both parts working well.
If the warning light comes on, there could be a brake
problem. Have your brake system inspected right away.
If the light stays on or comes on while you are driving,
you may have a problem with the electrical charging
system. It could indicate that you have an electrical
problem. Have it checked right away. Driving while this
light is on could drain your battery.
If you must drive a short distance with this light on, be
certain to turn off all your accessories, such as the radio
and air conditioner.
United States
Canada
This light should come on when you turn the ignition
key to START. If it doesn’t come on then, have it fixed
so it will be ready to warn you if there’s a problem.
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If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the
road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is
harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the
floor. It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on,
have the vehicle towed for service. See “Anti-Lock Brake
System Warning Light” following and Towing Your
Anti-Lock Brake System Warning
Light
With the anti-lock brake
system, this light will come
on when you start your
engine and it will stay on
for three seconds.
That’s normal.
{CAUTION:
If the light comes on when you’re driving, you don’t
have anti-lock brakes and there could be a problem with
your regular brakes. Pull off the road and stop carefully.
You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or,
the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer
to stop. Have the vehicle towed for service. See
Your brake system may not be working
properly if the brake system warning light is
on. Driving with the brake system warning light
on can lead to an accident. If the light is still
on after you have pulled off the road and
stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for
service.
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Engine Coolant Temperature Gage
{CAUTION:
This gage shows the
engine coolant
Your regular brake system may not be working
properly if the anti-lock brake system warning
light is on. Driving with the anti-lock brake
system warning light on can lead to an
accident. After you have pulled off the road
and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed
for service.
temperature. If the gage
pointer moves to the
H (red) side, your engine
is too hot.
If the anti-lock brake system warning light stays on
longer than normal after you’ve started your engine, turn
the ignition off. Or, if the light comes on and stays on
when you’re driving, stop as soon as possible and turn
the ignition off. Then start the engine again to reset
the system. If the light still stays on, or comes on again
while you’re driving, your vehicle needs service. If
the light is on and the regular brake system warning
light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have
anti-lock brakes.
It means that your engine coolant has overheated and
you should stop your vehicle and turn off the engine
as soon as possible.
The anti-lock brake system warning light should come
on briefly when you turn the ignition key to ON. If
the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be
ready to warn you if there is a problem.
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be as good and your engine may not run as
smoothly. This could lead to costly repairs that may
not be covered by your warranty.
Malfunction Indicator Lamp
Service Engine Soon Light
Notice: Modifications made to the engine,
transmission, exhaust, intake or fuel system of your
vehicle or the replacement of the original tires
with other than those of the same Tire Performance
Criteria (TPC) can affect your vehicle’s emission
controls and may cause this light to come on.
Modifications to these systems could lead to costly
repairs not covered by your warranty. This may
also result in a failure to pass a required Emission
Inspection/Maintenance test.
Your vehicle is equipped
with a computer which
monitors operation of the
fuel, ignition and emission
control systems.
This system is called OBD II (On-Board
This light should come on, as a check to show you it is
working, when the ignition is on and the engine is
not running. If the light does not come on, have it
repaired. This light will also come on during a
malfunction in one of two ways:
Diagnostics-Second Generation) and is intended to
assure that emissions are at acceptable levels for the
life of the vehicle, helping to produce a cleaner
environment. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON light
comes on to indicate that there is a problem and service
is required. Malfunctions often will be indicated by the
system before any problem is apparent. This may
prevent more serious damage to your vehicle. This
system is also designed to assist your service technician
in correctly diagnosing any malfunction.
• Light Flashing — A misfire condition has been
detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions
and may damage the emission control system on
your vehicle. Diagnosis and service may be
required.
Notice: If you keep driving your vehicle with this
light on, after a while, your emission controls
may not work as well, your fuel economy may not
• Light On Steady — An emission control system
malfunction has been detected on your vehicle.
Diagnosis and service may be required.
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If the Light Is Flashing
If the Light Is On Steady
The following may prevent more serious damage to
your vehicle:
You may be able to correct the emission system
malfunction by considering the following:
• Reducing vehicle speed.
• Avoiding hard accelerations.
• Avoiding steep uphill grades.
Did you recently put fuel into your vehicle?
If so, reinstall the fuel cap, making sure to fully install
diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has
been left off or improperly installed. A loose or missing
fuel cap will allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere.
A few driving trips with the cap properly installed
should turn the light off.
• If you are towing a trailer, reduce the amount of
cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.
If the light stops flashing and remains on steady, see “If
the Light Is On Steady” following.
Did you just drive through a deep puddle of water?
If the light continues to flash, when it is safe to do so,
stop the vehicle. Find a safe place to park your vehicle.
Turn the key off, wait at least 10 seconds and restart
the engine. If the light remains on steady, see “If
the Light Is On Steady” following. If the light is still
flashing, follow the previous steps, and see your dealer
for service as soon as possible.
If so, your electrical system may be wet. The condition
will usually be corrected when the electrical system
dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off.
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Have you recently changed brands of fuel?
Emissions Inspection and Maintenance
Programs
If so, be sure to fuel your vehicle with quality fuel. See
cause your engine not to run as efficiently as designed.
You may notice this as stalling after start-up, stalling
when you put the vehicle into gear, misfiring, hesitation
on acceleration or stumbling on acceleration. (These
conditions may go away once the engine is warmed up.)
This will be detected by the system and cause the
light to turn on.
Some state/provincial and local governments have or
may begin programs to inspect the emission control
equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass this
inspection could prevent you from getting a vehicle
registration.
Here are some things you need to know to help your
vehicle pass an inspection:
If you experience one or more of these conditions,
change the fuel brand you use. It will require at least
one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off.
Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON light is on or not working properly.
Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the OBD
(on-board diagnostic) system determines that critical
emission control systems have not been completely
diagnosed by the system. The vehicle would be
considered not ready for inspection. This can happen if
you have recently replaced your battery or if your
battery has run down. The diagnostic system is
designed to evaluate critical emission control systems
during normal driving. This may take several days
of routine driving. If you have done this and your vehicle
still does not pass the inspection for lack of OBD
system readiness, your GM dealer can prepare the
vehicle for inspection.
If none of the above steps have made the light turn off,
your dealer can check the vehicle. Your dealer has
the proper test equipment and diagnostic tools to fix any
mechanical or electrical problems that may have
developed.
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• Sometimes when the engine is idling at a stop, the
light may blink on and off. This is normal.
Oil Pressure Light
If you have a problem with
your oil, this light may stay
on after you start your
engine, or come on when
you are driving.
• If you make a hard stop, the light may come on for
a moment. This is normal.
{CAUTION:
Do not keep driving if the oil pressure is low. If
you do, your engine can become so hot that it
catches fire. You or others could be burned.
Check your oil as soon as possible and have
your vehicle serviced.
This indicates that there is not enough pressure to keep
your engine properly lubricated and cool. The engine
could be low on oil, or have some other oil related
problem. Have it fixed right away.
The oil light could also come on in three other situations.
Notice: Lack of proper engine oil maintenance may
damage the engine. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Always follow the
maintenance schedule in this manual for changing
engine oil.
• When the ignition is on but the engine is not
running, the light will come on as a test to show you
it is working, but the light will go out when you
turn the engine to START. If it doesn’t come on with
the ignition on, you may have a problem with the
fuse or bulb. Have it fixed right away.
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Overdrive Off Light
Power Indicator Light
This light comes on when
the automatic four-speed
transmission, if equipped,
has been converted to
the three-speed mode
and the overdrive is
turned off.
This light comes on when
the power mode selector
switch, if equipped, is
turned to P (power) with
the ignition switch in
the ON position.
This light also comes on as a check for about
five seconds when the ignition key is turned to ON
or START.
This light comes on as a check for about five seconds
when the ignition key is turned to ON or START.
Four-Wheel-Drive Light
If you have four-wheel
drive, this light comes on
when the ignition switch is
on and the transfer
case lever is in one of the
four-wheel drive positions.
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Here are four concerns some owners have had about
the fuel gage. All these situations are normal and do not
indicate that anything is wrong with the fuel gage.
Fuel Gage
Your fuel gage shows
about how much fuel is in
your tank. When the
• At the gas station, the fuel pump shuts off before the
gage reads F (full).
gage first indicates
• It takes more (or less) fuel to fill up than the gage
reads. For example, the gage reads half full, but it
took more (or less) than half of the tank’s
capacity to fill it.
E (empty), you still have
about one or two gallons
(4 to 8 L) of fuel left in your
tank, but you need to
get more right away.
• The gage moves a little when you turn, stop or
speed up.
• When you turn the engine off, the gage doesn’t go
back to E (empty).
• It takes several minutes for the gage to read F (full)
after filling the tank.
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Notice: Any non-factory installed radios are not
covered by your vehicle’s warranty.
Audio System(s)
Notice: Before you add any sound equipment to
your vehicle – like a tape player, CB radio, mobile
telephone or two-way radio – be sure you can
add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to
do it properly. Added sound equipment may
interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine,
radio or other systems, and even damage them.
Your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the
operation of sound equipment that has been added
improperly.
Your audio system has been designed to operate easily
and to give years of listening pleasure. You will get
the most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with
it first. Figure out which radio you have in your vehicle,
find out what your audio system can do and how to
operate all of its controls to be sure you’re getting the
most out of the advanced engineering that went into it.
Setting the Time
So, before adding sound equipment, check with
your dealer and be sure to check federal rules
covering mobile radio and telephone units.
Press and hold the HR or MIN arrow for two seconds.
Then press the HR arrow until the correct hour appears
on the display. Press and hold the MIN arrow until
the correct minute appears on the display. The time may
be set with the ignition on or off.
Some models do not include a radio, however all
models come with four speakers, an antenna and all of
the wiring needed to install a radio.
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Finding a Station
Radio with CD
AM FM: Press this button to switch between FM1,
FM2, and AM. The display will show your selection.
TUNE: Turn this knob to select radio stations.
o SEEK p: Press the right or the left arrow to go to
the next or to the previous station and stay there.
To scan stations, press and hold either SEEK arrow for
two seconds until you hear a beep. The radio will go
to a station, play for a few seconds, then go on to
the next station. Press either SEEK arrow again to stop
scanning.
Playing the Radio
To scan preset stations, press and hold either SEEK
arrow for more than four seconds until you hear
two beeps. The radio will go to the first preset station
stored on your pushbuttons, play for a few seconds, then
go on to the next preset station. Press either SEEK
arrow again to stop scanning presets.
PWR (Power): Press this knob to turn the system
on and off.
VOL (Volume): Turn this knob to increase or to
decrease volume.
The radio will seek and scan only to stations that are in
the selected band and only to those with a strong
signal.
RCL (Recall): Press this knob to switch the display
between the radio station frequency and the time.
Time display is available with the ignition turned off.
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Setting Preset Stations
Setting the Tone (Bass/Treble)
The six numbered pushbuttons let you return to
your favorite stations. You can set up to 18 stations
(six FM1, six FM2, and six AM) by performing the
following steps:
AUDIO: To adjust the bass or the treble, press and
release the AUDIO button repeatedly until BAS or TRE
appears on the display. Then press and hold the up
or the down arrow to increase or to decrease. If a station
is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the
treble.
1. Turn the radio on.
2. Press AM FM to select FM1, FM2, or AM.
3. Tune in the desired station.
To adjust bass or treble to the middle position, select
BAS or TRE. Then press and hold the AUDIO button for
more than two seconds until you hear a beep. B and
a zero or T and a zero will appear on the display.
4. Press and hold one of the six numbered
pushbuttons until you hear a beep. Whenever you
press that numbered pushbutton, the station
you set will return.
To adjust both tone controls and both speaker controls
to the middle position, first end out of audio mode
by pressing another button, causing the radio to perform
that function, or by waiting five seconds for the display
to return to time of day. Then press and hold the AUDIO
button for more than two seconds until you hear a
beep. CEN will appear on the display.
5. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.
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Adjusting the Speakers (Balance/Fade)
Radio Messages
AUDIO: To adjust the balance between the right
and the left speakers, press and release the AUDIO
button until BAL appears on the display. Then press and
hold the up or the down arrow to move the sound
toward the right or the left speakers.
CAL (Calibration): Your audio system has been
calibrated for your vehicle from the factory. If CAL
appears on the display it means that your radio has not
been configured properly for your vehicle and must
be returned to the dealer for service.
To adjust the fade between the front and rear speakers,
press and release the AUDIO button until FAD
appears on the display. Then press and hold the up or
the down arrow to move the sound toward the front
or the rear speakers.
Playing a CD
Insert a CD partway into the slot, label side up. The
player will pull it in and the CD should begin playing. CD
will appear on the display. If you want to insert a CD
when the ignition is off, first press the eject button or the
RCL knob.
To adjust balance or fade to the middle position, select
BAL or FAD. Then press and hold AUDIO for more
than two seconds until you hear a beep. L and a zero
or F and a zero will appear on the display.
If you insert a CD with the radio off and the ignition on,
it will start to play.
If you turn off the ignition with a CD in the player, it will
stay in the player. When you turn on the ignition or
radio, the CD will start playing where it stopped, if it was
the last selected audio source.
To adjust both tone controls and both speaker controls
to the middle position, first end out of audio mode
by pressing another button, causing the radio to perform
that function, or by waiting five seconds for the display
to return to time of day. Then press and hold the AUDIO
button for more than two seconds until you hear a
beep. CEN will appear on the display.
As each new track starts to play, the track number will
appear on the display.
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The CD player can play the smaller 8 cm single CDs
with an adapter ring. Full-size CDs and the smaller CDs
are loaded in the same manner.
2 NEXT: Press this pushbutton to go to the next track.
The track number will appear on the display. If you
hold the pushbutton or press it more than once,
the player will continue moving forward through the CD.
If playing a CD-R the sound quality may be reduced
due to CD-R quality, the method of recording, the quality
of the music that has been recorded, and the way the
CD-R has been handled. You may experience an
increase in skipping, difficulty in finding tracks, and/or
difficulty in loading and ejecting. If these problems occur
try a known good CD.
3 REV (Reverse): Press and hold this pushbutton to
reverse quickly within a track. Release it to play
the passage. The elapsed time of the track will appear
on the display.
4 FWD (Forward): Press and hold this pushbutton to
advance quickly within a track. Release it to play
the passage. The elapsed time of the track will appear
on the display.
Do not add paper labels to CDs, they could get caught
in the CD player.
Do not play 3 inch CDs without a standard adapter CD.
5 RDM (Random): Press this pushbutton to hear the
tracks in random, rather than sequential, order. RND will
appear on the display. Press RDM again to turn off
random play. OFF will appear on the display.
If an error appears on the display, see “CD Messages”
later in this section.
1 PREV (Previous): Press this pushbutton to go to the
beginning of the current track if it has been playing
for more than eight seconds. The track number
will appear on the display. If you hold the pushbutton or
press it more than once, the player will continue
moving backward through the CD.
6 RPT (Repeat): Press this pushbutton once to hear a
track over again. RPT will appear on the display.
The current track will continue to repeat. Press RPT
again to turn off repeat play. OFF will appear on
the display.
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o SEEK p: Press the right or the left arrow to go to
the next or to the previous track. The track number
will appear on the display.
CD Messages
If the CD comes out, it could be for one of the following
reasons:
RCL (Recall): Press this knob to see the current track
number or how long the current track has been
playing.
• It is very hot. When the temperature returns to
normal, the CD should play.
• You are driving on a very rough road. When the
road becomes smooth, the CD should play.
AM FM: Press this button to listen to the radio when a
CD is playing. The inactive CD will remain safely
inside the radio for future listening.
• The CD is dirty, scratched, wet, or upside down.
• The air is very humid. If so, wait about an hour and
try again.
CD: Press this button to play a CD when listening to
the radio.
• There may have been a problem while burning
the CD.
Z (Eject): Press this button to eject a CD. Eject may
be activated with either the ignition or radio off. CDs
may be loaded with the radio and ignition off if this
button is pressed first.
• The label may be caught in the CD player.
If the CD is not playing correctly, for any other reason,
try a known good CD.
If any error occurs repeatedly or if an error cannot be
corrected, contact your dealer. If you radio displays
an error message, write it down and provide it to your
dealer when reporting the problem.
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Be sure never to touch the side without writing when
handling CDs. Pick up CDs by grasping the outer edges
or the edge of the hole and the outer edge.
Radio Reception
AM
The range for most AM stations is greater than for FM,
especially at night. The longer range, however, can
cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick
up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try
reducing the treble to reduce this noise.
Care of Your CD Player
The use of CD lens cleaners for CDs is not advised,
due to the risk of contaminating the lens of the CD optics
with lubricants internal to the CD mechanism.
FM
Fixed Mast Antenna
FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals
will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km).
Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals,
causing the sound to come and go.
The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes
without being damaged. If the mast should ever
become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand.
If the mast is badly bent, you should replace it.
Check occasionally to be sure the mast is still tightened
to the fender. If tightening is required, tighten by
hand, then with a wrench one quarter turn.
Care of Your CDs
Handle CDs carefully. Store them in their original cases
or other protective cases and away from direct
sunlight and dust. If the surface of a CD is soiled,
dampen a clean, soft cloth in a mild, neutral detergent
solution and clean it, wiping from the center to the edge.
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✍ NOTES
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is significantly more likely to die than a person wearing
a seat belt. In addition, avoiding excessive speed,
sudden or abrupt turns and drunken or aggressive
driving can help make trips safer and avoid the
possibility of a crash, especially a rollover crash.
This section provides many useful tips to help you
drive more safely.
Your Driving, the Road, and
Your Vehicle
Whenever we drive, we are taking on an
important responsibility. This is true for any motor
vehicle — passenger car, van, truck, sport utility. Driver
behavior, the driving environment, and the vehicle’s
design all affect how well a vehicle performs. But
statistics show that the most important factor, by far, is
how we drive.
Driving Environment
You can also help avoid a rollover or other type of crash
by being prepared for driving in inclement weather, at
night, or during other times where visibility or traction
may be limited (such as on curves, slippery roads or hilly
terrain). Unfamiliar surroundings can also have hidden
hazards.
Knowing how these three factors work together can help
you understand how your vehicle handles and what
you can do to avoid many types of crashes, including a
rollover crash.
To help you learn more about driving in different
conditions, this section contains information about city,
freeway and off-road driving, as well as other hints
for driving in various weather conditions.
Driver Behavior
The single most important thing is this: everyone in the
vehicle, including the driver, should buckle up. See
most serious injuries and fatalities to unbelted
occupants can be reduced or prevented by the use of
safety belts. In a rollover crash, an unbelted person
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Vehicle Design
Defensive Driving
According to the U.S. Department of Transportation,
utility vehicles have a significantly higher rollover
rate than other types of vehicles. Utility vehicles do
have higher ground clearance and a narrower track or
shorter wheelbase than passenger cars, to make
them more capable for off-road driving. Specific design
characteristics like these give the driver a better
view of the road, but also give utility vehicles a higher
center of gravity than other types of vehicles. This
means that you should not expect a utility vehicle to
handle the same way a vehicle with a lower center
of gravity, like a car, would in similar situations.
The best advice anyone can give about driving is: Drive
defensively.
Please start with a very important safety device in your
vehicle: Buckle up. See Safety Belts: They Are for
Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.”
On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means
“always expect the unexpected.”
Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to
be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what
they might do. Be ready for their mistakes.
But driver behavior factors are far more often the cause
of a utility vehicle rollover than are environmental or
vehicle factors. Safe driver behavior and understanding
the environment in which you will be driving can help
avoid a rollover crash in any type of vehicle, including
utility vehicles.
Rear-end collisions are about the most preventable of
accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following
distance. It is the best defensive driving maneuver, in
both city and rural driving. You never know when the
vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly.
Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on
the driving task. Anything that distracts from the
driving task — such as concentrating on a cellular
telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on
the floor — makes proper defensive driving more difficult
and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury.
Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the
road in a safe place to do them yourself. These simple
defensive driving techniques could save your life.
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The obvious way to eliminate the leading highway
safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and
then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too
much” if someone plans to drive? It is a lot less
than many might think. Although it depends on each
person and situation, here is some general information
on the problem.
Drunken Driving
Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is
a national tragedy. It is the number one contributor
to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims
every year.
Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a
vehicle:
The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone
who is drinking depends upon four things:
• Judgment
• The amount of alcohol consumed
• The drinker’s body weight
• Muscular Coordination
• Vision
• The amount of food that is consumed before and
during drinking
• Attentiveness.
Police records show that almost half of all motor
vehicle-related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases,
these deaths are the result of someone who was
drinking and driving. In recent years, more than
16,000 annual motor vehicle-related deaths have been
associated with the use of alcohol, with more than
300,000 people injured.
• The length of time it has taken the drinker to
consume the alcohol.
According to the American Medical Association, a 180 lb
(82 kg) person who drinks three 12 ounce (355 ml)
bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a BAC
of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the
same BAC by drinking three 4 ounce (120 ml) glasses
of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1-1/2 ounces
(45 ml) of liquors like whiskey, gin or vodka.
Many adults — by some estimates, nearly half the adult
population — choose never to drink alcohol, so they
never drive after drinking. For persons under 21,
it is against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol.
There are good medical, psychological and
developmental reasons for these laws.
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this means that a woman generally will reach a higher
BAC level than a man of her same body weight will
when each has the same number of drinks.
The law in an increasing number of U.S. states, and
throughout Canada, sets the legal limit at 0.08 percent.
In some other countries, the limit is even lower. For
example, it is 0.05 percent in both France and Germany.
The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United
States is 0.04 percent.
The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to
six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we have seen,
it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks,
and how quickly the person drinks them.
But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of
0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills
of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching
0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All
drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent.
Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision
increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of
0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of
0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a
collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance
of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a
level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!
It is the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if
the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces
or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s
BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person
who consumes food just before or during drinking
will have a somewhat lower BAC level.
There is a gender difference, too. Women generally
have a lower relative percentage of body water
than men. Since alcohol is carried in body water,
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The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol
in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold
showers will speed that up. “I will be careful” is not the
right answer. What if there is an emergency, a need
to take sudden action, as when a child darts into
the street? A person with even a moderate BAC might
not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the
collision.
{CAUTION:
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous.
Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness
and judgment can be affected by even a
small amount of alcohol. You can have a
serious — or even fatal — collision if you
drive after drinking. Please do not drink and
drive or ride with a driver who has been
drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you are with
a group, designate a driver who will not drink.
There is something else about drinking and driving that
many people do not know. Medical research shows
that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash
injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal
cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has
been drinking — driver or passenger — is in a crash,
that person’s chance of being killed or permanently
disabled is higher than if the person had not been
drinking.
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Control of a Vehicle
Braking
You have three systems that make your vehicle go
where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the
steering and the accelerator. All three systems have
to do their work at the places where the tires meet
the road.
Braking action involves perception time and
reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal.
That is perception time. Then you have to bring up your
foot and do it. That is reaction time.
Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that
is only an average. It might be less with one driver
and as long as two or three seconds or more with
another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination
and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and
frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving
at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m). That
could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping
enough space between your vehicle and others is
important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly
with the surface of the road (whether it is pavement
or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire
tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of
the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in
spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is
a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool
between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much
faster if you do a lot of heavy braking.
Sometimes, as when you are driving on snow or ice, it
is easy to ask more of those control systems than
the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose
control of your vehicle.
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If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic
following distances, you will eliminate a lot of
unnecessary braking. That means better braking and
longer brake life.
You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while
this test is going on, and you may even notice that your
brake pedal moves or pulses a little. This is normal.
If there is a problem with the anti-lock brake system, the
anti-lock brake system warning light will stay on. See
If your engine ever stops while you are driving, brake
normally but do not pump your brakes. If you do,
the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine
stops, you will still have some power brake assist.
But you will use it when you brake. Once the power
assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and
the brake pedal will be harder to push.
Anti-lock Brake System (ABS)
Your vehicle may have anti-lock brakes. ABS is an
advanced electronic braking system that will help
prevent a braking skid.
If your vehicle has anti-lock
brakes, this warning light
on the instrument panel will
come on briefly when
you start your vehicle.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely.
Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam
on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what
happens with ABS:
When you start your engine, or when you begin to drive
away, your anti-lock brake system will check itself.
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A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If
one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer
will separately work the brakes at each front wheel
and at both rear wheels.
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates
on wheel speed and controls braking pressure
accordingly.
Remember: Anti-lock does not change the time you
need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always
decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to
the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to apply
your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops.
Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even
though you have anti-lock brakes.
The anti-lock system can change the brake pressure
faster than any driver could. The computer is
programmed to make the most of available tire and road
conditions. This can help you steer around the obstacle
while braking hard.
Using Anti-Lock
Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal
down firmly and let anti-lock work for you. You may feel
a slight brake pedal pulsation or notice some noise,
but this is normal.
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Braking in Emergencies
Steering
At some time, nearly every driver gets into a situation
that requires hard braking.
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine
stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but
it will take much more effort.
If you have anti-lock, you can steer and brake at the
same time. However, if you do not have anti-lock, your
first reaction — to hit the brake pedal hard and hold
it down — may be the wrong thing to do. Your wheels
can stop rolling. Once they do, the vehicle can not
respond to your steering. Momentum will carry it
in whatever direction it was headed when the wheels
stopped rolling. That could be off the road, into the very
thing you were trying to avoid, or into traffic.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves.
If you do not have anti-lock, use a “squeeze” braking
technique. This will give you maximum braking
while maintaining steering control. You can do this by
pushing on the brake pedal with steadily increasing
pressure.
Here is why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves.
The traction of the tires against the road surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when
you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia
will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If
you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you
will understand this.
In an emergency, you will probably want to squeeze the
brakes hard without locking the wheels. If you hear or
feel the wheels sliding, ease off the brake pedal.
This will help you retain steering control. If you do have
anti-lock, it is different. See “Anti-Lock Brake System”
in this section.
In many emergencies, steering can help you more than
even the very best braking.
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The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While
you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you
can control.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the brake or accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way
you want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly apply the brakes. Both control
systems — steering and braking — have to do their work
where the tires meet the road. Unless you have
four-wheel anti-lock brakes, adding the hard braking can
demand too much of those places. You can lose
control.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach
a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.
The same thing can happen if you are steering through
a sharp curve and you suddenly accelerate. Those
two control systems — steering and acceleration — can
overwhelm those places where the tires meet the
road and make you lose control.
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Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective
than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find
a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls
out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between
parked cars and stops right in front of you. You
can avoid these problems by braking — if you can stop
in time. But sometimes you can not; there is not
room. That is the time for evasive action — steering
around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like
these. First apply your brakes — but, unless you
have anti-lock, not enough to lock your wheels.
speed as you can from a possible collision. Then
steer around the problem, to the left or right depending
on the space available.
An emergency like this requires close attention and a
quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at
the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you
can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without
removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer
quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel
once you have avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving
at all times and wear safety belts properly.
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Off-Road Recovery
Passing
You may find that your right wheels have dropped off
the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re
driving.
The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a
two-lane highway waits for just the right moment,
accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then
goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two-lane
highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the
passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming
traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in
judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger
can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the
worst of all traffic accidents — the head-on collision.
So here are some tips for passing:
• “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides
and to crossroads for situations that might affect
your passing patterns. If you have any doubt
whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait
for a better time.
• Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and
lines. If you can see a sign up ahead that might
indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass.
A broken center line usually indicates it is all
right to pass (providing the road ahead is clear).
Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or
a double solid line, even if the road seems empty
of approaching traffic.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way,
steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of
the pavement. You can turn the steering wheel up to
one-quarter turn until the right front tire contacts
the pavement edge. Then turn your steering wheel to go
straight down the roadway.
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• Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to
pass while you are awaiting an opportunity. For one
thing, following too closely reduces your area of
vision, especially if you are following a larger
vehicle. Also, you will not have adequate space if
the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops.
Keep back a reasonable distance.
• Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder, and
start your left lane change signal before moving out
of the right lane to pass. When you are far
enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front
in your inside mirror, activate your right lane
change signal and move back into the right lane.
(Remember that your right outside mirror is convex.
The vehicle you just passed may seem to be
farther away from you than it really is.)
• When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up,
start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and
do not get too close. Time your move so you will be
increasing speed as the time comes to move into
the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you
will have a “running start” that more than makes up
for the distance you would lose by dropping
back. And if something happens to cause you to
cancel your pass, you need only slow down
and drop back again and wait for another
opportunity.
• Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on
two-lane roads. Reconsider before passing the
next vehicle.
• Do not overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.
Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it
may be slowing down or starting to turn.
• If you are being passed, make it easy for the
following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps
you can ease a little to the right.
• If other vehicles are lined up to pass a slow vehicle,
wait your turn. But take care that someone is not
trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow
vehicle. Remember to glance over your shoulder
and check the blind spot.
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If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems (brakes,
steering and acceleration) do not have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do what the driver
has asked.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety,
you will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of less
danger.
Skidding
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration
or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice or packed snow
on the road to make a “mirrored surface” — and slow
down when you have any doubt.
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not
“overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always
possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too
much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip
and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration
skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels
to spin.
If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It
helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have
anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are
no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the
brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores
steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily
when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels
are rolling, you will have steering control.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
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Before You Go Off-Roading
Off-Road Driving with Your
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle
There are some things to do before you go out. For
example, be sure to have all necessary maintenance
and service work done. Check to make sure all
underbody shields (if so equipped) are properly
attached. Be sure you read all the information about
your four-wheel-drive vehicle in this manual. Is
there enough fuel? Is the spare tire fully inflated? Are
the fluid levels up where they should be? What are the
local laws that apply to off-roading where you will be
driving? If you do not know, you should check with law
enforcement people in the area. Will you be on
someone’s private land? If so, be sure to get the
necessary permission.
This off-road guide is for vehicles that have four-wheel
drive.
If your vehicle does not have four-wheel drive, you
should not drive off-road unless you are on a level,
solid surface.
Off-road driving can be great fun. But it does have
some definite hazards. The greatest of these is
the terrain itself.
“Off-roading” means you have left the great North
American road system behind. Traffic lanes are not
marked. Curves are not banked. There are no
road signs. Surfaces can be slippery, rough, uphill or
downhill. In short, you have gone right back to nature.
Loading Your Vehicle for Off-Road
Driving
There are some important things to remember about
how to load your vehicle.
Off-road driving involves some new skills. And that
is why it is very important that you read this guide. You
will find many driving tips and suggestions. These
will help make your off-road driving safer and more
enjoyable.
• The heaviest things should be on the load floor and
forward of your rear axle. Put heavier items as far
forward as you can.
• Be sure the load is secured properly, so driving on
the off-road terrain does not toss things around.
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Environmental Concerns
{CAUTION:
Off-road driving can provide wholesome and satisfying
recreation. However, it also raises environmental
concerns. We recognize these concerns and urge every
off-roader to follow these basic rules for protecting
the environment:
• Cargo on the load floor piled higher than
the seatbacks can be thrown forward
during a sudden stop. You or your
passengers could be injured. Keep cargo
below the top of the seatbacks.
• Unsecured cargo on the load floor can be
tossed about when driving over rough
terrain. You or your passengers can be
struck by flying objects. Secure the cargo
properly.
• Heavy loads on the roof raise the vehicle’s
center of gravity, making it more likely to
roll over. You can be seriously or fatally
injured if the vehicle rolls over. Put heavy
loads inside the cargo area, not on the
roof. Keep cargo in the cargo area as far
forward and low as possible.
• Always use established trails, roads and areas that
have been specially set aside for public off-road
recreational driving; obey all posted regulations.
• Avoid any driving practice that could damage
the environment — shrubs, flowers, trees,
grasses — or disturb wildlife (this includes
wheel-spinning, breaking down trees or
unnecessary driving through streams or over
soft ground.)
• Always carry a litter bag — make sure all refuse is
removed form any campsite before leaving.
• Take extreme care with open fires
(where permitted), camp stoves and lanterns.
• Never park your vehicle over dry grass or other
combustible materials that could catch fire form
the heat of the vehicle’s exhaust system.
You will find other important information in this manual.
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Controlling your vehicle is the key to successful off-road
driving. One of the best ways to control your vehicle
is to control your speed. Here are some things to keep
in mind. At higher speeds:
Traveling to Remote Areas
It makes sense to plan your trip, especially when going
to a remote area. Know the terrain and plan your
route. You are much less likely to get bad surprises.
Get accurate maps of trails and terrain. Try to learn of
any blocked or closed roads.
• you approach things faster and you have less time
to scan the terrain for obstacles.
• you have less time to react.
It is also a good idea to travel with at least one other
vehicle. If something happens to one of them, the other
can help quickly.
• you have more vehicle bounce when you drive over
obstacles.
Does your vehicle have a winch? If so, be sure to read
the winch instructions. In a remote area, a winch
can be handy if you get stuck. But you will want to know
how to use it properly.
• you will need more distance for braking, especially
since you are on an unpaved surfaces.
{CAUTION:
Getting Familiar with Off-Road Driving
It is a good idea to practice in an area that is safe
and close to home before you go into the wilderness.
Off-road driving does require some new and different
driving skills. Here is what we mean.
When you are driving off-road, bouncing and
quick changes in direction can easily throw
you out of position. This could cause you to
lose control and crash. So, whether you’re
driving on or off the road, you and your
passengers should wear safety belts.
Tune your senses to different kinds of signals. Your
eyes, for example, need to constantly sweep the terrain
for unexpected obstacles. Your ears need to listen
for unusual tire or engine sounds. With your arms,
hands, feet and body, you will need to respond to
vibrations and vehicle bounce.
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When you drive over obstacles or rough terrain, keep a
firm grip on the steering wheel. Ruts, troughs or
other surface features can jerk the wheel out of your
hands if you are not prepared.
Scanning the Terrain
Off-road driving can take you over many different kinds
of terrain. You need to be familiar with the terrain
and its many different features. Here are some things to
consider.
When you drive over bumps, rocks, or other obstacles,
your wheels can leave the ground. If this happens,
even with one or two wheels, you can not control the
vehicle as well or at all.
Surface Conditions: Off-roading can take you over
hard-packed dirt, gravel, rocks, grass, sand, mud, snow
or ice. Each of these surfaces affects the steering,
acceleration and braking of your vehicle in different
ways. Depending upon the kind of surface you are on,
you may experience slipping, sliding, wheel spinning,
delayed acceleration, poor traction and longer braking
distances.
Because you will be on an unpaved surface, it is
especially important to avoid sudden acceleration,
sudden turns or sudden braking.
In a way, off-road driving requires a different kind of
alertness from driving on paved roads and highways.
There are no road signs, posted speed limits or
signal lights. You have to use our own good judgment
about what is safe and what is not.
Surface Obstacles: Unseen or hidden obstacles can
be hazardous. A rock, log, hole, rut or bump can startle
you if you are not prepared for them. Often these
obstacles are hidden by grass, bushes, snow or even
the rise and fall of the terrain itself. Here are some
things to consider:
Drinking and driving can be very dangerous on any
road. And this is certainly true for off-road driving. At the
very time you need special alertness and driving
skills, your reflexes, perceptions and judgment can be
affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You
could have a serious — or even fatal — accident if you
drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been
• Is the path ahead clear?
• Will the surface texture change abruptly up ahead?
• Does the travel take you uphill or downhill?
(There is more discussion of these subjects later.)
• Will you have to stop suddenly or change direction
quickly?
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On a large hill, the incline may get steeper as you near
the tip, but you may not see this because the crest
of the hill is hidden by bushes, grass or shrubs.
Driving on Off-Road Hills
Off-road driving often takes you up, down or across a
hill. Driving safely on hills requires good judgment
and an understanding of what your vehicle can and can
not do. There are some hills that simply can not be
driven, no matter how well built the vehicle.
Here are some other things to consider as you approach
a hill.
• Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get
sharply steeper in places?
• Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?
{CAUTION:
• Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
will not have to make turning maneuvers?
Many hills are simply too steep for any vehicle.
If you drive up them, you will stall. If you drive
down them, you can not control your speed. If
you drive across them, you will roll over. You
could be seriously injured or killed. If you have
any doubt about the steepness, do not drive
the hill.
• Are there obstructions on the hill that can block
your path (boulders, trees, logs or ruts)?
• What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk
the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to
find out.
• Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because
they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is
one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend
or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very
small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant
incline with only a small change in elevation where
you can easily see all the way to the top.
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• Ease up on your speed as you approach the top of
the hill.
Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you
need to take some special steps.
• Attach a flag to the vehicle to make you more
visible to approaching traffic on trails or hills.
• Use a low gear and get a firm grip on the steering
wheel.
• Sound the horn as you approach the top of the hill
to let opposing traffic know you are there.
• Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
your speed. Do not use more power than you
need, because you do not want your wheels to start
spinning or sliding.
• Use your headlamps even during the day. They
make you more visible to oncoming traffic.
• Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If
the path twists and turns, you might want to find
another route.
{CAUTION:
Driving to the top (crest) of a hill at full speed
can cause an accident. There could be a
drop-off, embankment, cliff, or even another
vehicle. You could be seriously injured or
killed. As you near the top of a hill, slow down
and stay alert.
{CAUTION:
Turning or driving across steep hills can be
dangerous. You could lose traction, slide
sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. When driving up
hills, always try to go straight up.
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• As you are backing down the hill, put your left hand
on the steering wheel at the 12 o’clock position.
This way, you will be able to tell if your wheels are
straight and maneuver as you back down. It is
best that you back down the hill with your wheels
straight rather than in the left or right direction.
Turning the wheel too far to the left or right
will increase the possibility of a rollover.
Q: What should I do if my vehicle stalls, or
is about to stall, and I can not make it up
the hill?
A: If this happens, there are some things you should
do, and there are some things you must not do.
First here is what you should do:
• Push the brake pedal to stop the vehicle and keep
it from rolling backwards. Also, apply the parking
brake.
Here are some things you must not do if you stall, or
are about to stall, when going up a hill.
• Never attempt to prevent a stall by shifting into
NEUTRAL (N) (or pressing the clutch, if you have a
manual transmission) to “rev-up” the engine and
regain forward momentum. This will not work. Your
vehicle will roll backwards very quickly and you
could go out of control.
• If your engine is still running, shift the transmission
to REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back down the hill in REVERSE (R)
• If your engine has stopped running, you will need to
restart it. With the brake pedal pressed and the
parking brake still applied, shift the transmission to
PARK (P) (or, shift to neutral if your vehicle has
a manual transmission) and restart the engine.
Then, shift to REVERSE (R), release the parking
brake, and slowly back down the fill as straight
as possible in REVERSE (R).
Instead, apply the regular brake to stop the vehicle.
Then apply the parking brake. Shift to
REVERSE (R), release the parking brake, and
slowly back straight down.
• Never attempt to turn around if you are about to
stall when going up a hill. If the hill is steep
enough to stall your vehicle, it is steep enough to
cause you to roll over if you turn around. If you can
not make it up the hill, you must back straight
down the hill.
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Q: Suppose, after stalling, I try to back down the
hill and decide I just can not do it. What should
I do?
{CAUTION:
A: Set the parking brake, put your transmission in
PARK (P), or the manual transmission in
FIRST (1), and turn off the engine. Leave the
vehicle and go get some help. Exit on the uphill
side and stay clear of the path the vehicle
would take if it rolled downhill. Do not shift the
transfer case to NEUTRAL when you leave
the vehicle. Leave it in some gear.
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can
cause your vehicle to roll even if the
transmission is in PARK (P) (or, if you have
the manual transmission, even if you are in
gear). This is because the NEUTRAL position
on the transfer case overrides the
transmission. You or someone else could be
injured. If you are going to leave your vehicle,
set the parking brake and shift the
transmission to PARK (P) (or, put your manual
transmission in FIRST (1)). But do not shift the
transfer case to NEUTRAL. Leave the transfer
case in the 2H, 4H or 4L position.
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If you decide you can go down a hill safely, then try to
keep your vehicle headed straight down, and use a
low gear. This way, engine drag can help your brakes
and they will not have to do all the work. Descend
slowly, keeping your vehicle under control at all times.
Driving Downhill
When off-roading takes you downhill, you will want to
consider a number of things:
• How steep is the downhill? Will I be able to maintain
vehicle control?
• What is the surface like? Smooth? Rough?
Slippery? Hard-packed dirt? Gravel?
{CAUTION:
• Are there any hidden surface obstacles? Ruts?
Logs? Boulders?
Heavy braking when going down a hill can
cause your brakes to overheat and fade. This
could cause loss of control and a serious
accident. Apply the brakes lightly when
descending a hill and use a low gear to keep
vehicle speed under control.
• What is at the bottom of the hill? Is there a
hidden creek bank or even a river bottom with
large rocks?
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Q: Are there some things I should not do when
Q: Am I likely to stall when going downhill?
driving down a hill?
A: It is much more likely to happen going uphill. But if
A: Yes! These are important because if you ignore
them you could lose control and have a serious
accident.
it happens going downhill, here is what to do.
• Stop your vehicle by applying the regular brakes.
Apply the parking brake.
• When driving downhill, avoid turns that take you
across the incline of the hill. A hill that is not too
steep to drive down may be too steep to drive
across. You could roll over if you do not drive
straight down.
• Shift to PARK (P) (or to neutral with the manual
transmission) and, while still braking, restart the
engine.
• Shift back to a low gear, release the parking brake,
and drive straight down.
• Never go downhill with the transmission in
NEUTRAL (N), or with the clutch pedal pressed
down in a manual shift. This is called
• If the engine will not start, get out and get help.
“free-wheeling.” Your brakes will have to do all the
work and could overheat and fade.
• Unless you have anti-lock: Avoid braking so hard
that you lock the wheels when going downhill. If
your wheels are locked, you can not steer your
vehicle. If your wheels lock up during downhill
braking, you may feel the vehicle starting to slide
sideways. To regain your direction, just ease off the
brakes and steer to keep the front of the vehicle
pointing straight downhill.
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For reasons like these, you need to decide carefully
whether to try to drive across an incline. Just because
the trail goes across the incline does not mean you
have to drive it. The last vehicle to try it might
have rolled over.
Driving Across an Incline
Sooner or later, an off-road trail will probably go across
the incline of a hill. If this happens, you have to
decide whether to try to drive across the incline. Here
are some things to consider:
• A hill that can be driven straight up or down may be
too steep to drive across. When you go straight up
or down a hill, the length of the wheel base (the
distance from the front wheels to the rear wheels)
reduces the likelihood the vehicle will tumble
end over end. But when you drive across an incline,
the much more narrow track width (the distance
between the left and right wheels) may not prevent
the vehicle from tilting and rolling over. Also,
driving across an incline puts more weight on the
downhill wheels. This could cause a downhill
slide or a rollover.
{CAUTION:
Driving across an incline that is too steep will
make your vehicle roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. If you have any
doubt about the steepness of the incline, do
not drive across it. Find another route instead.
Q: What if I am driving across an incline that is not
too steep, but I hit some loose gravel and start
to slide downhill. What should I do?
• Surface conditions can be a problem when you
drive across a hill. Loose gravel, muddy spots,
or even wet grass can cause your tires to slip
sideways, downhill. If the vehicle slips sideways, it
can hit something that will trip it (a rock, a rut,
etc.) and roll over.
A: If you feel your vehicle starting to slide sideways,
turn downhill. This should help straighten out the
vehicle and prevent the side slipping. However,
a much better way to prevent this is to get out and
“walk the course” so you know what the surface
is like before you drive it.
• Hidden obstacles can make the steepness of the
incline even worse. If you drive across a rock
with the uphill wheels, or if the downhill wheels
drop into a rut or depression, your vehicle can tilt
even more.
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Stalling on an Incline
{CAUTION:
If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline,
be sure you (and your passengers) get out on the uphill
side, even if the door there is harder to open. If you
get out on the downhill side and the vehicle starts to roll
over, you will be right in its path.
Getting out on the downhill (low) side of a
vehicle stopped across an incline is
dangerous. If the vehicle rolls over, you could
be crushed or killed. Always get out on the
uphill (high) side of the vehicle and stay well
clear of the rollover path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
of the vehicle if it does roll over.
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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow or sand, your wheels will
not get good traction. You can not accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer
braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep
mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do
not get stuck.
{CAUTION:
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand (as
on beaches or sand dunes) your tires will tend to sink
into the sand. This has an effect on steering,
accelerating and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and
avoid sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds or rivers can be
dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
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Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Heavy rain can mean flash flooding, and flood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover your wheel hubs,
axles or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will
not get through. Also, water that deep can damage
your axle and other vehicle parts.
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll the
vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing
water.
If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on your ignition
system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get your tailpipe under water. And, as long
as your tailpipe is under water, you will never be
able to start your engine. When you go through water,
remember that when your brakes get wet, it may
take you longer to stop.
See
more information on driving through water.
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After Off-Road Driving
Driving at Night
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on the
underbody, chassis or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a fire hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due to
off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be
impaired — by alcohol or drugs, with night vision
problems, or by fatigue.
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Here are some tips on night driving.
• Drive defensively.
You can be temporarily blinded by approaching
headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several
seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When
you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver
who does not lower the high beams, or a vehicle with
misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid
staring directly into the approaching headlamps.
• Do not drink and drive.
• Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the
glare from headlamps behind you.
• Since you can not see as well, you may need to
slow down and keep more space between you
and other vehicles.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out. Glare at night is made much
worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass
can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes
lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would,
making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.
• Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your
headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.
• In remote areas, watch for animals.
Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a
roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep
your eyes moving; that way, it is easier to pick out dimly
lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be
checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes
be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from
night blindness — the inability to see in dim light — and
are not even aware of it.
• If you are tired, pull off the road in a safe place
and rest.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime.
But as we get older these differences increase.
A 50-year-old driver may require at least twice as much
light to see the same thing at night as a 20-year-old.
What you do in the daytime can also affect your
night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright
sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your
eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you
are driving, do not wear sunglasses at night. They
may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also
make a lot of things invisible.
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The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your
windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy
rain can make it harder to see road signs and
traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road
and even people walking.
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
It is wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape
and keep your windshield washer tank filled with
washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts
when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on
the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to
separate from the inserts.
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet
road, you can not stop, accelerate or turn as well
because your tire-to-road traction is not as good as on
dry roads. And, if your tires do not have much tread
left, you will get even less traction. It is always wise to
go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while
you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when
your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.
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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even
going through some car washes can cause problems,
too. The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid
puddles. But if you can not, try to slow down before you
hit them.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up
under your tires that they can actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and
you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
{CAUTION:
Hydroplaning does not happen often. But it can if your
tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in
one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is
standing on the road. If you can see reflections
from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and
raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be
hydroplaning.
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They will not
work as well in a quick stop and may cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of
the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water
or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly
until your brakes work normally.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds. There
just is not a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.
Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Notice: If you drive too quickly through deep
puddles or standing water, water can come in
through your engine’s air intake and badly damage
your engine. Never drive through water that is
slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If
you can not avoid deep puddles or standing
water, drive through them very slowly.
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Driving Through Flowing Water
City Driving
{CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.
If you try to drive through flowing water, as you
might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can
be carried away. As little as six inches of
flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle.
If this happens, you and other vehicle
occupants could drown. Do not ignore police
warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious
about trying to drive through flowing water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
• Besides slowing down, allow some extra following
distance. And be especially careful when you
pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear
room ahead, and be prepared to have your
view restricted by road spray.
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the
amount of traffic on them. You will want to watch out for
what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to
traffic signals.
on page 5-55.
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Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:
Freeway Driving
• Know the best way to get to where you are
going. Get a city map and plan your trip into
an unknown part of the city just as you would for a
cross-country trip.
• Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross
most large cities. You will save time and energy.
• Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic
light is there because the corner is busy enough
to need it. When a light turns green, and just before
you start to move, check both ways for vehicles
that have not cleared the intersection or may
be running the red light.
Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways,
expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the
safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
The most important advice on freeway driving is:
Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the
same speed most of the other drivers are driving.
Too-fast or too-slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow.
Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.
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At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to
the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as
you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin
to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect
to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close
to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal,
check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as
often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the
traffic flow.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the
proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do
not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive
on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not
to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance
at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are
going slower than you actually are.
Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the
posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it is slower.
Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use
your turn signal.
Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested. If you
must start when you are not fresh — such as after
a day’s work — do not plan to make too many miles that
first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing
and shoes you can easily drive in.
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your
shoulder to make sure there is not another vehicle in
your “blind” spot.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you
allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to
move slightly slower at night.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it needs
service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you
will find experienced and able service experts in GM
dealerships all across North America. They will be ready
and willing to help if you need it.
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Here are some things you can check before a trip:
Highway Hypnosis
• Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?
Are all windows clean inside and outside?
Is there actually such a condition as “highway
hypnosis”? Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel?
Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or
whatever.
• Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
• Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked
all levels?
There is something about an easy stretch of road with
the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the
road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the
wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Do
not let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can
leave the road in less than a second, and you could
crash and be injured.
• Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
• Tires: They are vitally important to a safe,
trouble-free trip. Is the tread good enough for
long-distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the
recommended pressure?
• Weather Forecasts: What is the weather outlook
along your route? Should you delay your trip a
short time to avoid a major storm system?
What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be
aware that it can happen.
Then here are some tips:
• Maps: Do you have up-to-date maps?
• Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a
comfortably cool interior.
• Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and
to the sides. Check your mirrors and your
instruments frequently.
• If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest,
service or parking area and take a nap, get some
exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness
on the highway as an emergency.
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Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in flat or rolling terrain.
Hill and Mountain Roads
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. See Off-Road
page 4-16 for information about driving off-road.
• Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system
and transmission. These parts can work hard
on mountain roads.
• Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, your brakes could get
so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down
to let your engine assist your brakes on a
steep downhill slope.
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• Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down
to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your
engine and transmission, and you can climb the
hill better.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down. They could
get so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Always
have your engine running and your vehicle in
gear when you go downhill.
• Stay in your own lane when driving on two-lane
roads in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide
or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
• As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There
could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or
an accident.
• You may see highway signs on mountains that
warn of special problems. Examples are long
grades, passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks
area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take
appropriate action.
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Here are some tips for winter driving:
Winter Driving
• Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
• You may want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red
cloth and a couple of reflective warning triangles. And, if
you will be driving under severe conditions, include a
small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of
burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you
properly secure these items in your vehicle.
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What is the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Driving On Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation. You
will have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be
very careful.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you will
want to brake very gently, too. If you do have anti-lock,
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Whether you have the anti-lock braking
system or not, you will want to begin stopping
sooner than you would on dry pavement. Without
anti-lock brakes, if you feel your vehicle begin to slide,
let up on the brakes a little. Push the brake pedal
down steadily to get the most traction you can.
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Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake so
hard that your wheels stop rolling, you will just slide.
Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can
still steer.
If You Are Caught in a Blizzard
• Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
• Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can not reach:
around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under
bridges. Sometimes the surface of a curve or
an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding
roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead
of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you are actually on the ice, and avoid
sudden steering maneuvers.
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and keep yourself
and your passengers safe:
• Turn on your hazard flashers.
• Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you have been stopped by the snow.
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• Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
floor mats — anything you can wrap around
{CAUTION:
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You can not see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow does
not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until
help comes.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment fire or other damage.
When you are stuck, spin the wheels as little
as possible. Do not spin the wheels above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as
“rocking” can help you get out when you are stuck, but
you must use caution.
speedometer.
Notice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
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Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
Using the Recovery Hooks
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If you have the
four-speed automatic, see “Power Mode Selector
page 2-16 for information on traction. If you have
a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear
(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1)
or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the
wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free
your vehicle. If that does not get you out after a few
tries, you may need to be towed out. Or, you can use
your recovery hooks. If you do need to be towed
Your vehicle is equipped with recovery hooks. The
hooks are provided at the front and rear of your vehicle.
You may need to use them if you are stuck off-road
and need to be pulled to some place where you
can continue driving.
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{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of
force. Always pull the vehicle straight out.
Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle.
The hooks could break off and you or others
could be injured from the chain or cable
snapping back.
Notice: Never use recovery hooks to tow the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would
not be covered by warranty.
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With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.
Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if
you need to have your disabled vehicle towed. See
• What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
• How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
• Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle — such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your
vehicle with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly
towing” (towing your vehicle with two wheels on
the ground and two wheels up on a device known
as a “dolly”).
• Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll
want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be
page 4-36.
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Notice: If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Do not tow a
two-wheel-drive vehicle with all four wheels on the
ground.
Dinghy Towing
To tow your vehicle from the front (four-wheel-drive
only), do the following:
Follow these steps:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift your automatic transmission into PARK (P), or
your manual transmission to SECOND (2).
3. With the ignition key in the ON position, move the
transfer case to NEUTRAL and make sure the
4WD light on the instrument panel cluster is off.
4. Turn the ignition key to ACC.
5. Release the parking brake.
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Notice: If you do not put the transfer case in
NEUTRAL before towing a four-wheel-drive vehicle
from the front, the vehicle could be damaged.
The repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
Always put the transfer case in NEUTRAL before
towing your vehicle.
Notice: If you exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while
towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never
exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Stop towing every 200 miles (300 km) and start the
engine. Leave the transfer case shift lever in NEUTRAL.
Shift your automatic transmission to DRIVE (D); leave
a manual transmission in SECOND (2) with the
clutch engaged. Run the engine at 2,000 rpm for one
minute to circulate oil in the transfer case. Turn the
ignition key to ACC. Now, you can continue towing your
vehicle.
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
Notice: Locking the steering column when towing
your vehicle may damage the steering column.
Always unlock the steering column before towing.
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2. If your vehicle is a four-wheel-drive vehicle, turn the
ignition key to ON, move the transfer case lever
into NEUTRAL and make sure the 4WD light on the
instrument panel cluster is turned off. See
Dolly Towing
To tow your vehicle from the rear, do the following:
3. Turn the ignition key to ACC.
4. Make sure the front wheels are facing straight
forward and secure the steering wheel with a
steering wheel clamping device designed for towing.
Notice: If you exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while
towing your vehicle, it could be damaged. Never
exceed 55 mph (90 km/h) while towing your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
The best way to tow your vehicle is from the rear.
Follow these steps:
1. Put the rear wheels on a dolly.
Notice: If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle
with the rear wheels on the ground.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants,
cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels
on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly
carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the
Certification label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can
break, and it can change the way your vehicle
handles. These could cause you to lose
control and crash. Also, overloading can
shorten the life of your vehicle.
Example 1
A. Vehicle Capacity Weight
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The Tire and Loading Information label shows the
seating capacity and the total weight your vehicle can
properly carry. This weight is called the vehicle capacity
weight. If your vehicle has the Tire and Loading
Information label, Example 1, the label is attached to
the center pillar, near the driver’s door latch. If your
vehicle has the Tire-Loading Information label,
Example 2, the label is on the driver’s door lock pillar.
The Tire and Loading Information label also gives
you the size and recommended inflation pressure for
the factory-installed, original equipment tires on
your vehicle. For more information on tires and inflation
on page 5-63.
There is also important loading information on the
Certification label. It tells you the Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) for the front and rear axle; see
“Certification Label” later in this section.
Example 2
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5. Determine the combined weight of luggage and
cargo being loaded on the vehicle. That weight
may not safely exceed the available cargo
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1. Locate the statement “The combined weight of
occupants and cargo should never exceed XXX
pounds” on your vehicle placard.
and luggage load capacity calculated in Step 4.
6. If your vehicle will be towing a trailer, the load from
your trailer will be transferred to your vehicle.
Consult this manual to determine how this reduces
the available cargo and luggage load capacity of
your vehicle.
2. Determine the combined weight of the driver and
passengers that will be riding in your vehicle.
3. Subtract the combined weight of the driver and
passengers from XXX kilograms or XXX pounds.
If your vehicle can tow a trailer, see Towing a
on towing a trailer, towing safety rules and
trailering tips.
4. The resulting figure equals the available amount of
cargo and luggage load capacity. For example, if the
“XXX” amount equals 1400 lbs. and there will be
five 150 lb. passengers in your vehicle, the amount
of available cargo and luggage load capacity is
650 lbs. (1400 − 750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs.).
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Example 1
Loading Your Vehicle
Description
Example 2
Loading Your Vehicle
Description Total
Item
Total
Item
Vehicle Capacity Weight
for Example 1 =
Subtract Occupant
Weight 150 lbs
(68 kg) × 2 =
Available Occupant and
Cargo Weight =
Vehicle Capacity Weight
for Example 2 =
Subtract Occupant
Weight 150 lbs
(68 kg) × 5 =
A
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
300 lbs (136 kg)
700 lbs (317 kg)
A
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
750 lbs (340 kg)
250 lbs (113 kg)
B
C
B
C
Available Cargo
Weight =
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Certification Label
Example 3
Loading Your Vehicle
Description
Item
Total
Vehicle Capacity Weight
for Example 3 =
Subtract Occupant
Weight 200 lbs
(91 kg) × 5 =
A
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
1,000 lbs (453 kg)
0 lbs (0 kg)
The certification label is also found on the driver’s door
lock pillar. It tells you the gross weight capacity of
your vehicle, called the Gross Vehicle Weight
Rating (GVWR). The GVWR includes the weight of the
vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo. Never exceed
the GVWR for your vehicle, or the Gross Axle Weight
Rating (GAWR) for either the front or rear axle.
B
C
Available Cargo
Weight =
Refer to your vehicle’s tire and loading information label
for specific information about your vehicle’s capacity
weight and seating positions. The combined weight of
the driver, passengers, and cargo should never
exceed your vehicle’s capacity weight.
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And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it
out. Don’t carry more than 400 lbs. (181 kg) in your
rear area when four people are in your two-wheel-drive
vehicle. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, don’t
carry more than 200 lbs. (91 kg) in your rear area when
four people are in your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike
and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or
in a crash.
• Put things in the cargo area of your
vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.
• Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle so that some of them
are above the tops of the seats.
• Do not leave an unsecured child restraint
in your vehicle.
• When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
• Do not leave a seat folded down unless
you need to.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can
break, and it can change the way your vehicle
handles. These could cause you to lose
control and crash. Also, overloading can
shorten the life of your vehicle.
Notice: Overloading your vehicle may cause
damage. Repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Do not overload your vehicle.
There’s also important loading information for off-road
driving in this manual. See Loading Your Vehicle
on page 4-51.
If you put things inside your vehicle — like suitcases,
tools, packages or anything else — they will go as fast
as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn
quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.
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Your vehicle can tow a trailer. To identify what the
vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should
read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that
appears later in this section. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.
Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have
followed all the steps in this section. Ask your
dealer for advice and information about towing
a trailer with your vehicle.
That’s the reason for this section. In it are many
time-tested, important trailering tips and safety rules.
Many of these are important for your safety and that of
your passengers. So please read this section carefully
before you pull a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, wheel assemblies and tires are forced to
work harder against the drag of the added weight.
The engine is required to operate at relatively higher
speeds and under greater loads, generating extra heat.
What’s more, the trailer adds considerably to wind
resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
Notice: Pulling a trailer improperly can damage
your vehicle and result in costly repairs that would
not be covered by your warranty. Always follow
the instructions in this section and check with your
dealer for more information about towing a trailer
with your vehicle.
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Three important considerations have to do with weight:
• the weight of the trailer,
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
• the weight of the trailer tongue
• There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
• and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
• Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
It should never weigh more than 1,500 lbs. (680 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
• Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 600 miles
(1000 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your
engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend
on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.
• Never exceed posted towing speed limits or go over
45 mph (72 km/h), whichever is lower and don’t
make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine
and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the
heavier loads.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information
or advice, or you can write us at:
Chevrolet
• If you have an automatic transmission, you can use
THIRD (3) (or, as you need to, a lower gear) when
towing a trailer. Operating your vehicle in
THIRD (3) when towing a trailer will minimize heat
buildup and extend the life of your transmission.
If you have a manual transmission and you
are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use the
highest gear.
Chevrolet Customer Assistance
P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232-5170
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
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If you’re using a weight-carrying or a weight-distributing
hitch, the trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B).
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle.
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total or gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add
the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. See Loading Your Vehicle
on page 4-51 for more information about your vehicle’s
maximum load capacity.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights
are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them
right simply by moving some items around in the
trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the Tire
Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for
your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
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Hitches
Safety Chains
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be
provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer
manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow
safety chains to drag on the ground.
• If you make holes in the body of your vehicle, be
sure to seal them when you remove the trailering
equipment. If you don’t seal them, dirt, water,
and even deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your
exhaust can get into your vehicle. See Engine
Your vehicle is readily designed to accept a trailer hitch.
The frame rail ends already have holes and weld
nuts in place to accept the four bolts needed to attach
the hitch bar.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own surge brakes. Tapping into
your vehicle’s brake system is not recommended.
To help simplify setting up your trailer lights, there is a
trailer wiring connector located behind the left rear
trim panel. If needed, your dealer can provide help in
removing the trim panel and accessing this wiring
connector.
Your vehicle’s trailer wiring has separate turn signal and
brake light circuits, which means you will most likely
need to purchase a converter to operate conventional
trailer lights.
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Driving with a Trailer
Following Distance
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel may flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Making Turns
Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
If you are towing a trailer and you have a manual
transmission with FIFTH (5) gear, you may prefer not to
use FIFTH (5). Just drive in FOURTH (4) (or, as you
need to, a lower gear).
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring.
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
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5. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, be sure the
transfer case is in a drive gear — not in NEUTRAL.
Parking on Hills
6. Release the regular brakes.
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle
if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with
the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle
can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle
can move suddenly. You or others could be
injured. To be sure your vehicle will not move,
even when you are on fairly level ground, use
the steps that follow.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet, or into gear for a manual
transmission.
Always put the shift lever fully in PARK (P)
with the parking brake firmly set.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
If the transfer case on four-wheel-drive
vehicles is in NEUTRAL, your vehicle will be
free to roll, even if your shift lever is in
PARK (P). So, be sure the transfer case is in a
drive gear — not in NEUTRAL.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift to PARK (P), or
REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you find them quickly. If
you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections
before you start your trip.
• start your engine,
• shift into a gear, and
• release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
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Section 5
Service and Appearance Care
Appearance Care ............................................5-85
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Doing Your Own Service Work
Service
If you want to do some of your own service work, you
will want to use the proper service manual. It tells
you much more about how to service your vehicle than
this manual can. To order the proper service manual,
page 7-11.
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to
be happy with it. We hope you will go to your dealer
for all your service needs. You will get genuine GM parts
and GM-trained and supported service people.
We hope you will want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting
to do your own service work, see Servicing Your Air
You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list
the mileage and the date of any service work you
{CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be
damaged if you try to do service work on a
vehicle without knowing enough about it.
• Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts
and tools before you attempt any vehicle
maintenance task.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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Gasoline Octane
CAUTION: (Continued)
Use regular unleaded gasoline with a posted octane
of 87 or higher. If the octane is less than 87, you may
get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If this
occurs, use a gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher as
soon as possible. Otherwise, you might damage
your engine. A little pinging noise when you accelerate
or drive uphill is considered normal. This does not
indicate a problem exists or that a higher-octane fuel is
necessary. If you are using 87 octane or higher-octane
fuel and hear heavy knocking, your engine needs
service.
• Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and
other fasteners. “English” and “metric”
fasteners can be easily confused. If you
use the wrong fasteners, parts can later
break or fall off. You could be hurt.
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle
Gasoline Specifications
Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can
affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind
noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check
with your dealer before adding equipment to the
outside of your vehicle.
It is recommended that gasoline meet specifications
which were developed by automobile manufacturers
around the world and contained in the World-Wide Fuel
Charter which is available from the Alliance of
Automobile Manufacturers at www.autoalliance.org.
Gasoline meeting these specifications could provide
improved driveability and emission control system
performance compared to other gasoline.
Fuel
Use of the recommended fuel is an important part of the
proper maintenance of your vehicle.
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In Canada, look for the
“Auto Makers’ Choice”
label on the pump.
California Fuel
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission
Standards (see the underhood emission control label), it
is designed to operate on fuels that meet California
specifications. If this fuel is not available in states
adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle
will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal
specifications, but emission control system performance
may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may
and your vehicle may fail a smog-check test. If this
occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for
diagnosis. If it is determined that the condition is caused
by the type of fuel used, repairs may not be covered
by your warranty.
Canada Only
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Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low
emissions may contain an octane-enhancing additive
called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl
(MMT); ask the attendant where you buy gasoline
whether the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does
not recommend the use of such gasolines. Fuels
containing MMT can reduce the life of spark plugs and
the performance of the emission control system may
be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp may turn on.
If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for
service.
Additives
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States
are now required to contain additives that will help
prevent engine and fuel system deposits from forming,
allowing your emission control system to work
properly. You should not have to add anything to your
fuel. However, some gasolines contain only the
minimum amount of additive required to meet U.S.
Environmental Protection Agency regulations. General
Motors recommends that you buy gasolines that
are advertised to help keep fuel injectors and intake
valves clean. If your vehicle experiences problems due
to dirty injectors or valves, try a different brand of
gasoline.
Fuels in Foreign Countries
If you plan on driving in another country outside the
United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard
to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel
not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly
repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not
be covered by your warranty.
Gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and
ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in
your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors
recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if
they comply with the specifications described earlier.
To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or
contact a major oil company that does business in the
country where you will be driving.
Notice: Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that
contains methanol. Do not use fuel containing
methanol. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel
system and also damage the plastic and rubber
parts. That damage would not be covered under
your warranty.
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Filling Your Tank
{CAUTION:
Fuel vapor burns violently and a fuel fire can
cause bad injuries. To help avoid injuries to
you and others, read and follow all the
instructions on the pump island. Turn off your
engine when you are refueling. Do not smoke
if you are near fuel or refueling your vehicle.
Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials
away from fuel. Do not leave the fuel pump
unattended when refueling your vehicle — this
is against the law in some places. Keep
children away from the fuel pump; never let
children pump fuel.
The fuel cap is located behind a hinged door on the
passenger’s side of your vehicle.
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{CAUTION:
If you spill fuel and then something ignites
it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can spray
out on you if you open the fuel cap too
quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is
nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather.
Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any
“hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all
the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Don’t top off or overfill your
tank, and wait a few seconds after you’ve finished
pumping before you remove the nozzle. Clean fuel from
painted surfaces as soon as possible. See Cleaning
the tank do not overfill by squeezing in much more
fuel after the pump shuts off.
While refueling, place the fuel cap in the holder
provided.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left
(counterclockwise).
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When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make
sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can
determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly
installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the
page 3-33.
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
{CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in
your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from
the container can ignite the gasoline vapor.
You can be badly burned and your vehicle
damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to
you and others:
{CAUTION:
If a fire starts while you are refueling, do not
remove the nozzle. Shut off the flow of fuel by
shutting off the pump or by notifying the
station attendant. Leave the area immediately.
• Dispense gasoline only into approved
containers.
• Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or
on any surface other than the ground.
• Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating
the nozzle. Contact should be maintained
until the filling is complete.
Notice: If you need a new fuel cap, be sure to get
the right type. Your dealer can get one for you.
If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly.
This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to
light and may damage your fuel tank and emissions
page 3-33.
• Do not smoke while pumping gasoline.
5-9
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Hood Release
Checking Things Under
the Hood
To open the hood, do the following:
1. Pull the release handle
located on the driver’s
side of the vehicle
on the lower portion of
the instrument
{CAUTION:
An electric fan under the hood can start up
and injure you even when the engine is not
running. Keep hands, clothing and tools away
from any underhood electric fan. Do not reach
through the grille to release the underhood
lever.
panel.
{CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts
and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel,
oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and
other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or
others could be burned. Be careful not to drop
or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
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3. Lift the hood, release
the hood prop from its
retainer and put the
hood prop into the slot
in the hood.
Before closing the hood, be sure all the filler caps
are on.
2. Then go to the front of the vehicle, pull up on the
hood, and push the hood release lever to your
right.
Then lift the hood to relieve pressure on the hood prop.
Remove the hood prop from the slot in the hood and
return the prop to its retainer. Then let the hood
down and close it firmly.
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A. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. See “Engine
Compartment Fuse Block” under Fuses and Circuit
Engine Oil
If the engine oil pressure
light appears on the
instrument cluster, it
means you need to check
your engine oil level
right away.
on page 5-28.
page 3-36.
You should check your engine oil level regularly; this is
an added reminder.
page 5-39.
page 5-25.
5-13
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Checking Engine Oil
When to Add Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
If the oil is at or below the hole at the tip of the dipstick,
then you will need to add up to two quarts of oil. But
you must use the right kind. This section explains what
kind of oil to use. For engine oil crankcase capacity,
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
Notice: Do not add too much oil. If your engine has
so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper
mark that shows the proper operating range,
your engine could be damaged.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to
drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil
dipstick might not show the actual level.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
the location of the
engine oil fill cap.
Be sure to add enough oil to put the level near the
upper hole in the dipstick. Push the dipstick all the way
back in when you are through.
5-14
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Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting
GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American
Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines
starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended
oil can result in engine damage not covered by
your warranty.
• SAE 5W-30
As shown in the viscosity chart, SAE 5W-30 is best
for your vehicle. However, if it is going to be 0°F
(–18°C) or above and SAE 5W-30 is not available,
you may use SAE 10W-30.
These numbers on an oil container show its
viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity
oils such as SAE 20W-50.
GM Goodwrench® oil meets all the requirements for
your vehicle.
If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the
temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is
recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide
easier cold starting and better protection for your engine
at extremely low temperatures.
Oils meeting these
requirements should also
have the starburst
symbol on the container.
This symbol indicates
that the oil has been
certified by the American
Petroleum Institute (API).
Engine Oil Additives
Do not add anything to your oil. The recommended oils
with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard
GM6094M are all you will need for good performance
and engine protection.
You should look for this information on the oil container,
and use only those oils that are identified as meeting
GM Standard GM6094M and have the starburst symbol
on the front of the oil container.
5-16
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When to Change Engine Oil
What to Do with Used Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city
maintenance schedule:
Used engine oil contains certain elements that may be
unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer.
Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean
your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good
hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or
rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s
warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.
• Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is
particularly important when outside temperatures
are below freezing.
• Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic).
Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the
filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it
in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into
streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by
taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a
problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask
your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center
for help.
• You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top
of your vehicle.
• The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi
or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to
break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your
vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter
every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months — whichever
occurs first.
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway
maintenance schedule. Change oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 7.5 months — whichever
occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine
under highway conditions will cause engine oil to
break down slower.
5-17
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When to Inspect the Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
Inspect the air cleaner/filter every 15,000 miles
(25 000 km) and replace every 30,000 miles
(50 000 km). If you are driving in dusty/dirty conditions,
inspect the filter at each engine oil change.
How to Inspect the Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter
To inspect the air cleaner/filter remove the filter from the
vehicle and lightly shake the filter to release loose
dust and dirt. If the filter remains caked with dirt, a new
filter is required.
To inspect or replace the filter, do the following:
1. Release the four clips
on the cover.
location of engine air cleaner/filter.
2. Lift the cover up.
5-18
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{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter
off can cause you or others to be burned. The
air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps to
stop flame if the engine backfires. If it is not
there and the engine backfires, you could
be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be
careful working on the engine with the air
cleaner/filter off.
Notice: If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can
cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can
easily get into your engine, which will damage it.
Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you
are driving.
3. Pull out the engine air cleaner/filter and check or
replace it.
4. Reinstall the cover and fasten the clips.
5-19
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How to Check
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at the dealership service
department.
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
Change both the fluid and filter every 15,000 miles
(25 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more of these conditions:
Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire.
Too little fluid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmission fluid.
• In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
• In hilly or mountainous terrain.
• When doing frequent trailer towing.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
• Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
• When outside temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).
• At high speed for quite a while.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
• In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
• While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at
normal operating temperature, which is 180°F to 200°F
(82°C to 93°C).
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Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50°F
(10°C). If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), drive the vehicle
in DRIVE (D) until the engine temperature gage
moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The automatic
transmission dipstick has a
red ring handle located
in the rear of the engine
compartment toward
the center of the vehicle.
Overview on page 5-12
for more information
on location.
A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has
been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off,
but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine
run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are
50°F (10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), you
may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid
level be low during this cold check, you must check the
fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot
will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.
Checking the Fluid Level
1. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
• Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
• With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
• With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
• Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
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How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
what kind of transmission fluid to use. See
page 6-30.
Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while
it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If
the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid
to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check.
It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than 0.6 pints
(0.3 L). Don’t overfill.
Notice: We recommend you use only fluid labeled
DEXRON® -III, because fluid with that label is
made especially for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON® -III is
not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area for
a cold check or in the HOT area for a hot check.
• After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as
described under “How to Check.”
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way.
• When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the
dipstick back in all the way.
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Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the
vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission
is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the
transmission case.
Manual Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is
changed. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to
Then, follow these steps:
determine when to change your transmission fluid. See
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may
choose to have this done at your Chevrolet dealership
service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions
here, or you could get a false reading.
Notice: Too much or too little fluid can damage
your transmission. Too much can mean that some
of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine
part or exhaust system parts, starting a fire.
Too little fluid could cause the transmission to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if you
check your transmission fluid.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of
the filler plug hole.
3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure
it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more
fluid as described in the next steps.
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How to Add Fluid
When to Check and What to Use
Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance
Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See
page 6-30.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Remove the drain plug, drain the fluid and reinstall
the drain plug.
3. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough
fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the
filler plug hole.
4. Reinstall the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully
seated.
Hydraulic Clutch
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often you should check the fluid level in your clutch
master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid. See
Part B: Owner Checks and Services on page 6-24
page 6-30.
It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless
you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding
fluid won’t correct a leak.
A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired.
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How to Check and Add Fluid
What to Use
You do not need to check the fluid level unless you
suspect a clutch problem. To check the fluid level, look
at the markings on the reservoir. If the fluid reaches
the MAX line, the fluid level is correct.
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
coolant that meets GM Specification 1825-M, which
won’t damage aluminum parts. You can also use
a recycled coolant conforming to GM
Specification 1825-M with a complete coolant flush and
refill. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need
to add anything else.
Engine Coolant
The following explains your cooling system and how to
add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem
page 5-28.
{CAUTION:
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and the proper
coolant will:
Adding only plain water to your cooling
system can be dangerous. Plain water, or
some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil
before the proper coolant mixture will. Your
vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the
proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the
wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot
but you would not get the overheat warning.
Your engine could catch fire and you or others
could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean,
drinkable water and the proper coolant.
• Give freezing protection down to −33°F (−36°C)
• Give boiling protection up to 258°F (125°C).
• Protect against rust and corrosion.
• Help keep the proper engine temperature.
• Let the warning lights and gages work as they
should.
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Notice: If you use an improper coolant mixture,
your engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost would not be covered by your
warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze
and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and
other parts.
Checking Coolant
If you have to add coolant more than four times a year,
have your dealer check your cooling system.
Notice: If you use the proper coolant, you do not
have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim
to improve the system. These can be harmful.
The coolant recovery tank is located toward the front of
the engine compartment on the driver’s side of the
page 5-12 for more information on location.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at LOW, or a
little higher. When your engine is warm, the level
should be up to FULL, or a little higher.
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Adding Coolant
If you need more coolant, add the proper coolant
mixture at the coolant recovery tank.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot
engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol,
and it will burn if the engine parts are hot
enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
{CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the
engine and radiator are hot can allow steam
and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you
badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will
almost never have to add coolant at the
radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure
cap — even a little — when the engine and
radiator are hot.
Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator. For
information on how to add coolant to the radiator,
Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful
not to spill it.
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Radiator Pressure Cap
Engine Overheating
You will find a coolant temperature gage on your
vehicle’s instrument panel cluster. See Engine Coolant
information on location.
Notice: If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,
coolant loss and possible engine damage may
occur. Be sure the cap is properly and tightly
secured.
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If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn
you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay
away from the engine if you see or hear steam
coming from it. Just turn it off and get
everyone away from the vehicle until it cools
down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or
coolant before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You
or others could be badly burned. Stop your
engine if it overheats, and get out of the
vehicle until the engine is cool.
Notice: If your engine catches fire because you
keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be
covered by your warranty.
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If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
• Climb a long hill on a hot day.
• Stop after high-speed driving.
• Idle for long periods in traffic.
• Tow a trailer.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast
as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the
engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it
cools down.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL (N)
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road,
shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
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Cooling System
{CAUTION:
When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what
you’ll see:
An electric engine cooling fan under the hood
can start up even when the engine is not
running and can injure you. Keep hands,
clothing and tools away from any underhood
electric fan. Do not reach through the grill to
release the underhood lever.
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling,
don’t do anything else until it cools down. The vehicle
should be parked on a level surface.
A. Coolant Recovery Tank
B. Radiator Pressure Cap
C. Engine Cooling Fan
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{CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine
parts, can be very hot. Do not touch them. If
you do, you can be burned.
Do not run the engine if there is a leak. If you
run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That
could cause an engine fire, and you could be
burned. Get any leak fixed before you drive the
vehicle.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again.
The engine cooling fan speed should increase when idle
speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal
down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off
the engine.
The coolant level should be at or above FULL. If it isn’t,
you may have a leak at the pressure cap or in the
radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or
somewhere else in the cooling system.
Notice: Engine damage from running your engine
without coolant is not covered by your warranty.
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Notice: In cold weather, water can freeze and crack
the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Use the recommended coolant and the proper
coolant mixture.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant
Recovery Tank
If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level
isn’t at or above the FULL mark, add a 50/50 mixture
of clean, drinkable water and a proper coolant at
page 5-25 for more information about the proper coolant
mixture.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling
system can be dangerous. Plain water, or
some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil
before the proper coolant mixture will. Your
vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the
proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the
wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot
but you would not get the overheat warning.
Your engine could catch fire and you or others
could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean,
drinkable water and a proper coolant.
{CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot
engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol
and it will burn if the engine parts are hot
enough. Do not spill coolant on a hot engine.
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When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or
above the FULL mark, start your vehicle.
If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more
thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant
mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling
system is cool before you do it.
{CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling
system can blow out and burn you badly. They
are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator
pressure cap — even a little — they can come
out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the
cooling system, including the radiator pressure
cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and
radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have
to turn the pressure cap.
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How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push
down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when
the cooling system, including the radiator pressure
cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot.
Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until
it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the
pressure cap.)
3. Fill the radiator with the proper coolant mixture, up
to the base of the filler neck. See Engine Coolant
on page 5-25 for more information about the proper
coolant mixture.
4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the
FULL mark.
If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss
means there is still some pressure left.
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5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but
leave the radiator pressure cap off.
6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper coolant mixture through the
filler neck until the level reaches the base of the
filler neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the
filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure
the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.
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How to Check Power Steering Fluid
Power Steering Fluid
You can check your fluid without taking the cap off. The
level should fall between the MIN and MAX marks on
the reservoir.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid
unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired. See Engine Compartment Overview
on page 5-12 for reservoir location.
What to Use
To determine what kind of fluid to use, see Part D:
Notice: When adding power steering fluid or
making a complete fluid change, always use the
proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can
cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
Windshield Washer Fluid
What to Use
When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read
the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will
be operating your vehicle in an area where the
temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has
sufficient protection against freezing. See Engine
location.
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Notice:
Adding Washer Fluid
• When using concentrated washer fluid, follow
the manufacturer’s instructions for adding
water.
• Do not mix water with ready-to-use washer fluid.
Water can cause the solution to freeze and
damage your washer fluid tank and other parts
of the washer system. Also, water does not
clean as well as washer fluid.
• Fill your washer fluid tank only three-quarters
full when it is very cold. This allows for
expansion if freezing occurs, which could
damage the tank if it is completely full.
• Do not use engine coolant (antifreeze) in your
windshield washer. It can damage your washer
system and paint.
Open the cap with the washer symbol on it. Add washer
fluid until the tank is full.
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If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a
leak means that sooner or later your brakes will not
work well, or will not work at all.
Brakes
Brake Fluid
So, it is not a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid will not correct a leak. If you add fluid
when your linings are worn, then you will have too
much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should
add (or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when
work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
{CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on
the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is
hot enough. You or others could be burned,
and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake
fluid only when work is done on the brake
hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid”
in this section.
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with DOT-3
page 5-12 for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in
the reservoir might go down. The first is that the
brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in,
the fluid level goes back up. The other reason is
that fluid is leaking out of the brake system.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when
to check your brake fluid. See Part C: Periodic
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Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area
around the cap before removing it. This will help
keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
Checking Brake Fluid
You can check the
brake fluid without
taking off the cap.
{CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake
system, your brakes may not work well, or
they may not even work at all. This could
cause a crash. Always use the proper brake
fluid.
Notice:
Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level
should be above MIN. If it is not, have your brake
system checked to see if there is a leak.
• Using the wrong fluid can badly damage brake
system parts. For example, just a few drops of
mineral-based oil, such as engine oil, in your
brake system can damage brake system
parts so badly that they will have to be replaced.
Do not let someone put in the wrong kind of
fluid.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system,
make sure the level is above the MIN but not over
the MAX mark.
What to Add
• If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s painted
surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be
careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If
you do, wash it off immediately. See Appearance
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT-3 brake
fluid. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container
on page 6-30.
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Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help
prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect
brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in
the proper sequence to GM torque specifications.
Brake Wear
Your vehicle has front disc brakes and rear drum
brakes.
Disc brake pads have built-in wear indicators that make
a high-pitched warning sound when the brake pads
are worn and new pads are needed. The sound
may come and go or be heard all the time your vehicle
is moving (except when you are pushing on the
brake pedal firmly).
Your rear drum brakes do not have wear indicators, but
if you ever hear a rear brake rubbing noise, have the
rear brake linings inspected immediately. Also, the rear
brake drums should be removed and inspected each
time the tires are removed for rotation or changing.
When you have the front brake pads replaced, have the
rear brakes inspected, too.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete
axle sets.
{CAUTION:
The brake wear warning sound means that
soon your brakes will not work well. That
could lead to an accident. When you hear the
brake wear warning sound, have your vehicle
serviced.
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to
normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in
pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Notice: Continuing to drive with worn-out brake
pads could result in costly brake repair.
Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes
adjust for wear.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake
squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly
applied. This does not mean something is wrong with
your brakes.
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Warning: Battery posts, terminals and related
accessories contain lead and lead compounds,
chemicals known to the State of California to cause
cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after
handling.
Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many
parts have to be of top quality and work well together if
the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your
vehicle was designed and tested with top-quality GM
brake parts. When you replace parts of your braking
system — for example, when your brake linings
wear down and you need new ones put in — be sure
you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you do
not, your brakes may no longer work properly. For
example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong
for your vehicle, the balance between your front and
rear brakes can change — for the worse. The braking
performance you have come to expect can change
in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong
replacement brake parts.
Vehicle Storage
If you are not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days
or more, remove the black, negative (−) cable from the
battery. This will help keep your battery from
running down.
{CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas
that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you
page 5-43 for tips on working around a battery
without getting hurt.
Battery
Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free
battery. When it is time for a new battery, get one that
has the replacement number shown on the original
battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco® battery.
for battery location.
Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your
vehicle for longer storage periods.
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Notice: If the other vehicle’s system is not a 12-volt
system with a negative ground, both vehicles can
be damaged. Only use vehicles with 12-volt systems
with negative grounds to jump start your vehicle.
Jump Starting
If your battery has run down, you may want to use
another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your
vehicle. Be sure to follow the steps below to do it safely.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables
can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching
each other. If they are, it could cause a ground
connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to
start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could
damage the electrical systems.
{CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous
because:
• They contain acid that can burn you.
• They contain gas that can explode or
ignite.
To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set
the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in
the jump start procedure. Put an automatic
transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission
in NEUTRAL before setting the parking brake.
• They contain enough electricity to
burn you.
Notice: If you leave your radio or other accessories
on during the jump starting procedure, they could
be damaged. The repairs would not be covered
by your warranty. Always turn off your radio and
other accessories when jump starting your vehicle.
If you do not follow these steps exactly, some
or all of these things can hurt you.
3. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug
unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette
lighter. Turn off the radio and all lamps that aren’t
needed. This will help reduce sparks and help save
both batteries. And it could save your radio!
Notice: Ignoring these steps could result in costly
damage to your vehicle that would not be covered
by your warranty.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it
will not work, and it could damage your vehicle.
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12-volt
battery with a negative ground system.
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4. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the
positive (+) and negative (−) terminal locations on
each battery. See Engine Compartment Overview
on page 5-12 for more information on battery
location.
{CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery
gas to explode. People have been hurt doing
this, and some have been blinded. Use a
flashlight if you need more light.
{CAUTION:
Be sure the battery has enough water. You do
not need to add water to the battery installed
in your new vehicle. But if a battery has filler
caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there.
If it is low, add water to take care of that first.
If you don’t, explosive gas could be present.
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the
auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start
up even when the engine is not running and
can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools
away from any underhood electric fan.
Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.
Do not get it on you. If you accidentally get it
in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place
with water and get medical help immediately.
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{CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure
you badly. Keep your hands away from moving
parts once the engine is running.
5. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or
missing insulation. If they do, you could get a
shock. The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some
basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to
a positive (+) battery terminal if the vehicle has
one. Negative (−) will go to a heavy, unpainted
metal engine part or to a remote negative (−)
terminal if the vehicle has one.
6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the dead battery. Use a remote
positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.
7. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to
the positive (+) terminal of the good battery.
Use a remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle
has one.
Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (−) or you’ll
get a short that would damage the battery and
maybe other parts too. And don’t connect the
negative (−) cable to the negative (−) terminal on
the dead battery because this can cause sparks.
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8. Now connect the black
negative (−) cable to
the negative (−)
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at
least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery,
but not near engine parts that move. The electrical
connection is just as good there, but the chance
of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
terminal of the good
battery. Use a remote
negative (−) terminal
if the vehicle has one.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. If it
won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs
service.
Notice: If the jumper cables are removed in the
wrong order, electrical shorting may occur and
damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Remove the jumper
cables in the correct order, making sure that the
cables do not touch each other or other metal.
Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next
step. The other end of the negative (−) cable
doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy,
unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead
battery.
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To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do
the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (−) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the
vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other
vehicle.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part
B. Good Battery
C. Dead Battery
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To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
Rear Axle
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you’ll need to add some lubricant.
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine
how often to check the lubricant and when to change it.
on page 6-4.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Remove the drain plug, drain the lubricant and
reinstall the drain plug.
3. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the
bottom of the filler plug hole.
How to Check Lubricant
4. Reinstall the filler plug.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended
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To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
Four-Wheel Drive
Most lubricant checks in this section also apply to
four-wheel-drive vehicles. However, they have
two additional systems that need lubrication.
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant
to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
Transfer Case
When to Check and Change Lubricant
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
How to Check Lubricant
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To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
Front Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole,
you may need to add some lubricant.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to check the lubricant and when to change it. See
Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections on page 6-28
page 6-4.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Remove the drain plug, drain the lubricant and
reinstall the drain plug.
3. When the differential is cold, add enough lubricant
to raise the level to 1/2 inch (12 mm) below the filler
plug hole.
How to Check Lubricant
When the differential is at operating temperature
(warm), add enough lubricant to raise the level
to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
4. Reinstall the filler plug.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. See Part D: Recommended
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Headlamps
Bulb Replacement
page 5-55. For any bulb changing procedure not listed
in this section, contact your dealer.
Notice: If you use high-intensity bulbs when
replacing the headlamp bulbs, you could damage
your vehicle. Use only replacement bulbs
recommended for your vehicle. See Replacement
Halogen Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside
and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb.
You or others could be injured. Be sure to read
and follow the instructions on the bulb
package.
A. Headlamp
B. Front Parking and Turn Signal Lamps
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To replace a headlamp bulb, do the following:
1. Open the hood.
2. Remove the rubber
cover and socket from
the headlamp.
3. Release the retainer clip holding the bulb by
pressing down and moving the metal retainer away
from you.
4. Pull the bulb out of the fixture.
5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.
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Front Turn Signal and Parking
Lamps
Sidemarker Lamps
To replace the sidemarker bulb, do the following:
1. Remove the two
screws holding the
sidemarker lamp
To replace the parking and turn signal bulb, do the
following:
1. See “Headlamps” for location.
assembly. The
assembly should pull
away from the vehicle.
2. Turn the socket counterclockwise and pull it out of
the housing.
3. Pull the bulb out of the socket.
4. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.
2. Locate the turn signal bulb.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it
out of the lamp housing.
4. Push the bulb in, turn it counterclockwise and pull
the bulb straight out of the socket.
5. Reverse the steps to install a new bulb.
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To remove the rear combination bulbs, do the following:
Rear Combination Lamps
Driver’s Side
Passenger’s Side
A. Turn Signal Lamp
B. Back-Up Lamp
C. Brake Lamp
1. Remove the two screws from the combination
lamps. Gently pull the housing away from the
vehicle.
2. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it
out of the lamp housing.
3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
4. Reverse the previous steps to install a new bulb.
5. Reinstall the housing and the screws.
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Replacement Bulbs
{CAUTION:
Exterior Lamp
Back-up Lamp
Bulb Number
921
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires
are dangerous.
• Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much
friction. You could have an air-out and a
serious accident. See “Loading Your
Vehicle” in the Index.
• Underinflated tires pose the same danger
as overloaded tires. The resulting accident
could cause serious injury. Check all tires
frequently to maintain the recommended
pressure. Tire pressure should be checked
when your tires are cold.
• Overinflated tires are more likely to be
cut, punctured or broken by a sudden
impact — such as when you hit a pothole.
Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
• Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If
your tread is badly worn, or if your tires
have been damaged, replace them.
Front Turn Signal and Parking
1157 NA
GM Part
No. 91171148 or
equivalent
921
GM Part
No. 91174349 or
equivalent
Headlamps (Halogen)
Rear Hazard and Turn Signal
Rear Parking and Brake
Sidemarker
194
For any bulb not listed here contact your dealer.
Tires
Your new vehicle comes with high-quality tires made by
a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions
about your tire warranty and where to obtain service,
see your GM Warranty booklet for details. For additional
information refer to the tire manufacturer’s booklet
included with your vehicle’s Owner’s Manual.
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(A) Tire Size Code: The tire size code is a combination
of letters and numbers used to define a particular
tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and
service description. See the “Tire Size Code” illustration
later in this section for more detail.
(D) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and
numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification
Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer
and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was
manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the
tire, although only one side may have the date of
manufacture.
(B) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC
Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s
specific tire performance criteria have a TPC
specification code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC
specifications meet or exceed all federal safety
guidelines.
(E) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of
plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
(F) Uniform Tire Quality Grading (UTQG): Tire
manufacturers are required to grade tires based on three
performance factors: treadwear, traction and
temperature resistance. For more information, see
(C) Department of Transportation (DOT): The
Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that
the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of
Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
(G) Maximum Cold Inflation Load Limit: Maximum
load that can be carried and the maximum pressure
needed to support that load. For information on
recommended tire pressure see Inflation - Tire Pressure
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(A) Tire Size: The tire size code is a combination of
letters and numbers used to define a particular
tire’s width, height, aspect ratio, construction type and
service description. See the “Tire Size” illustration
later in this section for more detail.
(B) Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC
Spec): Original equipment tires designed to GM’s
specific tire performance criteria have a TPC specification
code molded onto the sidewall. GM’s TPC specifications
meet or exceed all federal safety guidelines.
(C) Dual Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that can
be carried and the maximum pressure needed to
support that load when used in a dual configuration. For
information on recommended tire pressure see
(D) Department of Transportation (DOT): The
Department of Transportation (DOT) code indicates that
the tire is in compliance with the U.S. Department of
Transportation Motor Vehicle Safety Standards.
(E) Tire Identification Number (TIN): The letters and
numbers following DOT code are the Tire Identification
Number (TIN). The TIN shows the manufacturer
and plant code, tire size, and date the tire was
manufactured. The TIN is molded onto both sides of the
tire, although only one side may have the date of
manufacture.
LT-Metric Tire
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(F) Tire Ply Material: The type of cord and number of
plies in the sidewall and under the tread.
(A) Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: The United States
version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “P” as
the first character in the tire size means a passenger
vehicle tire engineered to standards set by the U.S. Tire
and Rim Association.
(G) Single Tire Maximum Load: Maximum load that
can be carried and the maximum pressure needed
to support that load when used as a single. For
information on recommended tire pressure see
(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the
tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates
the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if
the tire size aspect ratio is “75,” as shown in item “C” of
the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is
75% as high as it is wide.
Tire Size
The following examples show the different parts of a
tire size.
(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to
indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The
letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D”
means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the
letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description: The service description
indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The
load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings
range from “A” to “Z”. The light truck tire size example
above shows dual or single tire configurations.
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire
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(D) Construction Code: A letter code is used to
indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The
letter “R” means radial ply construction; the letter “D”
means diagonal or bias ply construction; and the
letter “B” means belted-bias ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter: Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description: The service description
indicates the load range and speed rating of a tire. The
load index can range from 1 to 279. Speed ratings
range from “A” to “Z”. The light truck tire size example
above shows dual or single tire configurations.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire
Tire Terminology and Definitions
(A) Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: The United States
version of a metric tire sizing system. The letter “LT” as
the first two characters in the tire size means a light
truck tire engineered to standards set by the U. S. Tire
and Rim Association.
Air Pressure: The amount of air inside the tire pressing
outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure
is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or
kilopascal (kPa).
(B) Tire Width: The three-digit number indicates the
tire section width in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
Accessory Weight: This means the combined weight
of optional accessories. Some examples of optional
accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering,
power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air
conditioning.
(C) Aspect Ratio: A two-digit number that indicates
the tire height-to-width measurements. For example, if
the tire size aspect ratio is “75,” as shown in item “C” of
the illustration, it would mean that the tire’s sidewall is
75% as high as it is wide.
Aspect Ratio: The relationship of a tire’s height to its
width.
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Belt: A rubber coated layer of cords that is located
between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made
from steel or other reinforcing materials.
GAWR FRT: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the front
GAWR RR: Gross Axle Weight Rating for the rear axle,
Bead: The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by
steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Intended Outboard Sidewall: The side of an
asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward when
mounted on a vehicle.
Bias Ply Tire: A pneumatic tire in which the plies are
laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the
centerline of the tread.
Kilopascal (kPa): The metric unit for air pressure.
Cold Inflation Pressure: The amount of air pressure in
a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or
kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat
There are 6.9 kPa’s to one psi.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire: A tire used on light duty
trucks and some multipurpose passenger vehicles.
Load Index: An assigned number ranging
from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load
carrying capacity of a tire.
Curb Weight: This means the weight of a motor
vehicle with standard and optional equipment including
the maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but
without passengers and cargo.
Maximum Inflation Pressure: The maximum air
pressure to which a cold tire may be inflated. The
maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
DOT Markings: A code molded into the sidewall of a
tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the
U.S. Department of Transportation motor vehicle safety
standards. The DOT code includes the Tire Identification
Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator which can
also identify the tire manufacturer, production plant,
brand and date of production.
Maximum Load Rating: The load rating for a tire at the
maximum permissible inflation pressure for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight: The sum of curb
weight; accessory weight; vehicle capacity weight;
and production options weight.
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Normal Occupant Weight: The number of occupants a
vehicle is designed to seat multiplied by 150 pounds
Speed Rating: An alphanumeric code assigned to a
tire indicating the maximum speed at which a tire
can operate.
Occupant Distribution: Designated seating positions.
Traction: The friction between the tire and the road
surface. The amount of grip provided.
Outward Facing Sidewall: The side of a asymmetrical
tire that has a particular side that faces outward
when mounted on a vehicle. The side of the tire that
contains a whitewall, bears white lettering or bears
manufacturer, brand and or model name molding that is
higher or deeper than the same moldings on the
other sidewall of the tire.
Tread: The portion of a tire that comes into contact
with the road.
Treadwear Indicators: Narrow bands, sometimes
called “wear bars,” that show across the tread of a tire
when only 2/32 inch of tread remains. See When It
Passenger (P-Metric) Tire: A tire used on passenger
cars and some light duty trucks and multipurpose
vehicles.
UTQGS: Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards, a tire
information system that provides consumers with
ratings for a tire’s traction, temperature and treadwear.
Ratings are determined by tire manufacturers using
government testing procedures. The ratings are molded
into the sidewall of the tire. See Uniform Tire Quality
Recommended Inflation Pressure: Vehicle
manufacturer’s recommended tire inflation pressure and
shown on the tire placard. See Inflation - Tire Pressure
Radial Ply tire: A pneumatic tire in which the ply cords
that extend to the beads are laid at 90 degrees to the
centerline of the tread.
Vehicle Capacity Weight: The number of designated
seating positions multiplied by 150 lbs. (68 kg) plus
the rated cargo load. See Loading Your Vehicle
on page 4-51.
Rim: A metal support for a tire and upon which the tire
beads are seated.
Vehicle Maximum Load on the Tire: Load on an
individual tire due to curb weight, accessory weight,
occupant weight and cargo weight.
Sidewall: The portion of a tire between the tread and
the bead.
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Vehicle Placard: A label permanently attached to a
vehicle showing the original equipment tire size
and recommended inflation pressure. See Loading Your
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you
can get the following:
• Unusual wear
• Bad handling
• Rough ride
Inflation - Tire Pressure
• Needless damage from road hazards
The tire and loading information label, shows the correct
inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold.
“Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least
three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). See
of your vehicle’s tire and loading information label.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more.
Also, check the tire pressure of the spare tire.
Notice: Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation
or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires
don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get
the following:
• Too much flexing
• Too much heat
• Tire overloading
• Bad wear
• Bad handling
• Bad fuel economy
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How to Check
Tire Inspection and Rotation
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire
pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated
simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look
properly inflated even when they’re underinflated. Check
the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold.
cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least
three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
Tires should be rotated every 5,000 to 8,000 miles
(8 000 to 13 000 km).
Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as
soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also
check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time
on page 5-70 for more information.
Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press
the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure
measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches
the recommended pressure on the tire and loading
information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If
the pressure is low, add air until you reach the
recommended amount.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more
uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation
is the most important. See Part A: Scheduled
If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the
metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Recheck the
tire pressure with the tire gage.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and
moisture.
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{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a Flat
Tire” in the Index.
When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct
rotation patterns shown here.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear inflation pressures as shown on the tire and loading
page 4-51, for information on the tire and loading
information label and its location on your vehicle. Make
certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened.
See “Wheel Nut Torque” under Capacities and
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You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
When It Is Time for New Tires
• You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
One way to tell when it’s
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining.
• You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
• The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
• The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
• The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can’t be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
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Buying New Tires
{CAUTION:
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at
the Tire and Loading Information label. For information
about this label and where to find it, see Loading
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control
while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes
or types (radial and bias-belted tires), the
vehicle may not handle properly, and you
could have a crash. Using tires of different
sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle.
Be sure to use the same size and type tires on
all wheels.
The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had
a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec)
number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires,
GM recommends that you get tires with that same
TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue
to have tires that are designed to give proper
endurance, handling, speed rating, load range, traction,
ride, tire pressure monitoring system performance
and other things during normal service on your vehicle.
If your tires have an all-season tread design, the
TPC number will be followed by an “MS” (for mud
and snow).
{CAUTION:
If you ever replace your tires with those not having a
TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same
size, load range, speed rating and construction type
(bias, bias-belted or radial) as your original tires.
If you use bias-ply tires on your vehicle, the
wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after
many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel
could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only
radial-ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
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Treadwear
Uniform Tire Quality Grading
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating based on
the wear rate of the tire when tested under controlled
conditions on a specified government test course.
For example, a tire graded 150 would wear one and
a half (1.5) times as well on the government course as
a tire graded 100. The relative performance of tires
depends upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart significantly from the norm
due to variations in driving habits, service practices and
differences in road characteristics and climate.
Quality grades can be found where applicable on the
tire sidewall between tread shoulder and maximum
section width. For example:
Treadwear 200 Traction AA Temperature A
The following information relates to the system
developed by the United States National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration, which grades tires by
treadwear, traction and temperature performance. (This
applies only to vehicles sold in the United States.)
The grades are molded on the sidewalls of most
passenger car tires. The Uniform Tire Quality Grading
system does not apply to deep tread, winter-type
snow tires, space-saver or temporary use spare tires,
tires with nominal rim diameters of 10 to 12 inches
(25 to 30 cm), or to some limited-production tires.
Traction – AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA, A,
B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s ability
to stop on wet pavement as measured under controlled
conditions on specified government test surfaces of
asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C may have poor
traction performance. Warning: The traction grade
assigned to this tire is based on straight-ahead braking
traction tests, and does not include acceleration,
cornering, hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
While the tires available on General Motors passenger
cars and light trucks may vary with respect to these
grades, they must also conform to federal safety
requirements and additional General Motors Tire
Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
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Temperature – A, B, C
Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B, and C,
representing the tire’s resistance to the generation
of heat and its ability to dissipate heat when tested
under controlled conditions on a specified indoor
laboratory test wheel. Sustained high temperature can
cause the material of the tire to degenerate and
reduce tire life, and excessive temperature can lead to
sudden tire failure. The grade C corresponds to a
level of performance which all passenger car tires must
meet under the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels of
performance on the laboratory test wheel than the
minimum required by law.
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced
carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life
and best overall performance.
Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are
not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or
your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment
may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle
vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels
may need to be rebalanced.
Warning: The temperature grade for this tire is
established for a tire that is properly inflated and not
overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation, or
excessive loading, either separately or in combination,
can cause heat buildup and possible tire failure.
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Wheel Replacement
{CAUTION:
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked or badly rusted
or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the
wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced.
If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some
aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired).
See your dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel
bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be
dangerous. It could affect the braking and
handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose
air and make you lose control. You could have
a collision in which you or others could be
injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel
bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load-carrying
capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted
the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts
or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM
original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to
have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts
for your vehicle.
Notice: The wrong wheel can also cause problems
with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or
odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height,
vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain
clearance to the body and chassis.
information.
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Used Replacement Wheels
Tire Chains
Notice: Use tire chains only where legal and only
when you must. Use only SAE Class “S” type chains
that are the proper size for your tires. Install them
on the tires of the drive axle (four-wheel-drive
vehicles can use chains on both axles). Tighten
them as tightly as possible with the ends securely
fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain
manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the
chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten
them. If the contact continues, slow down until
it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with
chains on will damage your vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is
dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used
or how far it’s been driven. It could fail
suddenly and cause a crash. If you have to
replace a wheel, use a new GM original
equipment wheel.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
{CAUTION:
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few
tips about what to expect and what to do:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a flat tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a flat tire.
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a flat tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your
hazard warning flashers.
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CAUTION: (Continued)
{CAUTION:
To be even more certain the vehicle won’t
move, you can put blocks at the front and rear
of the tire farthest away from the one being
changed. That would be the tire on the other
side, at the opposite end of the vehicle.
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you
or other people. You and they could be badly
injured or even killed. Find a level place to
change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle
from moving:
1. Set the parking brake firmly.
2. Put an automatic transmission shift lever
in PARK (P), or shift a manual
transmission to FIRST (1) or
REVERSE (R).
3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,
be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear — not in NEUTRAL.
4. Turn off the engine and do not restart
while the vehicle is raised.
5. Do not allow passengers to remain in the
vehicle.
CAUTION: (Continued)
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The following steps will tell you how to use the jack and
change a tire.
2. Turn the jack screw
to remove the jack
from the clamps. If the
screw is too tight,
use the jack handle to
loosen it.
Removing the Spare Tire and Tools
The jack, wheel wrench and jack handle are stowed in
the rear left corner of the luggage compartment.
1. To open the jacking tool storage compartment, turn
the knob counterclockwise. Open the cover two
inches and pull the entire cover towards the front of
the vehicle.
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3. To remove the hard
cover from the spare
tire, insert your key into
the wheel lock and
pull the wheel lock off.
Hard Cover
The tools you’ll be using include the jack (A), jack
handle (B) and wheel wrench (C).
The spare tire is mounted on your tailgate. Your
vehicle may be equipped with either a soft,
vinyl cover or a hard cover.
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Vinyl Cover
4. Using the wheel wrench, remove the wheel cover
nut. Gently pry the spare tire cover off the wheel.
5. If your vehicle is equipped with a vinyl cover, unzip
the cover to find the wheel lock. Insert the key into
the wheel lock and pull it off.
6. Using the wheel wrench, remove the wheel nut
under the lock.
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Removing the Flat Tire and Installing
the Spare Tire
7. Remove the remaining wheel nuts with the wheel
wrench.
8. Remove the spare tire from the mounting bracket
and place it near your flat tire.
1. If your vehicle has wheel nut caps, remove them by
turning the wheel wrench counterclockwise.
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Front Wheel Location
2. Using the wheel wrench, loosen all the wheel nuts
but don’t remove them yet.
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{CAUTION:
Getting under a vehicle when it is jacked up is
dangerous. If the vehicle slips off the jack you
could be badly injured or killed. Never get under
a vehicle when it is supported only by a jack.
Rear Wheel Location
{CAUTION:
3. Under the vehicle near each wheel, there are knobs
in the vehicle’s frame. Raise the jack two inches
(51 mm) before positioning the jack. Raise the jack
lift head until it fits firmly onto the knobs nearest
to the flat tire.
Raising your vehicle with the jack improperly
positioned can cause personal injury and
damage to the vehicle. If you try to use the
jack when it hasn’t been raised at least
two inches (51 mm), the jack may not hold up
the vehicle, and you or others could be
injured. To help avoid personal injury and
vehicle damage, be sure to open the jack at
least two inches (51 mm) before you fit the lift
head into the proper location.
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5. Remove all the wheel
nuts and take off the
flat tire.
4. Raise the vehicle by turning the jack handle
clockwise. Raise the vehicle far enough off the
ground so there is enough room for the spare tire to
fit underneath the wheel well.
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6. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
{CAUTION:
and spare wheel.
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to
get all the rust or dirt off.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If
you do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.
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7. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.
8. Reinstall the wheel
nuts with the
cone-shaped end of
the nuts toward
the wheel. Tighten
each nut by hand until
the wheel is held
against the hub.
9. Lower the vehicle by turning the jack handle
counterclockwise. Lower the jack completely.
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10. Tighten the wheel nuts
firmly in a crisscross
Notice: Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead
to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid
expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper
torque specification. See “Capacities and
Specifications” in the index for the wheel nut torque
specification.
sequence as shown.
When you reinstall the full-size wheel and tire, you
must also reinstall the plastic nut caps.
11. Tighten the plastic nut caps by hand. Then tighten
them one half turn with the wheel wrench. Do not
overtighten the nut caps or they may break.
{CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened
wheel nuts can cause the wheel to come loose
and even come off. This could lead to an
accident. Be sure to use the correct wheel
nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to
get new GM original equipment wheel nuts.
Stop somewhere as soon as you can and have
the nuts tightened with a torque wrench to the
proper torque specification. See “Capacities
and Specifications” in the Index for wheel nut
torque specification.
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1. Store your vehicle’s flat or spare tire by mounting it
on the tailgate.
Storing a Flat or Spare Tire and Tools
Notice: Ensure that the wheel balance weight is on
the lower left section of the tire in order to allow
proper installation of the spare wheel cover.
{CAUTION:
2. Put the top two wheel nuts back on with the wheel
wrench.
Storing a jack, a tire, or other equipment in the
passenger compartment of the vehicle could
cause injury. In a sudden stop or collision,
loose equipment could strike someone. Store
all these in the proper place.
3. Put the spare tire cover back on, if equipped. Using
the wheel wrench, put the wheel cover nut back on.
4. Put the spare wheel lock back on, if equipped and
lock it.
5. Put the jack, jack handle and wheel wrench back
into the storage area.
To stow the jack, place it in the storage bracket and
turn the shaft clockwise until the jack is securely held in
place. Reinstall the trim cover by inserting the cover
tabs into the slots. Push the cover closed and turn the
knob clockwise to secure the cover.
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Appearance Care
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some
are toxic. Others can burst into flames if you strike a
match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are
dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed
space. When you use anything from a container to clean
your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s
warnings and instructions. And always open your doors
or windows when you are cleaning the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
• Gasoline
• Benzene
• Naphtha
A. Wrench
B. Jack Handle
C. Jack
• Carbon Tetrachloride
• Acetone
• Paint Thinner
• Turpentine
{CAUTION:
• Lacquer Thinner
• Nail Polish Remover
Make sure the tire is secure. Driving with the
tire not properly secured could injure
pedestrians or damage the vehicle.
They can all be hazardous — some more than
others — and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
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Do not use any of these unless this manual says you
can. In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:
• Carefully scrape off any excess stain.
• Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean
area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are
stubborn.
• Alcohol
• Laundry Soap
• Bleach
• If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean
the entire area immediately or it will set.
• Reducing Agents
Using Cleaner on Fabric
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any
loose dirt.
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and
loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted
surfaces with a clean, damp cloth.
2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.
Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.
3. Follow the directions on the container label.
Cleaning Fabric/Carpet
4. Apply cleaner with a clean sponge. Do not saturate
the material and do not rub it roughly.
Your dealer has cleaners for the cleaning of fabric
and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains
very well.
5. As soon as you have cleaned the section, use a
sponge to remove any excess cleaner.
You can get GM-approved cleaning products from your
page 5-92.
6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, water-dampened
towel or cloth.
7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.
Here are some cleaning tips:
• Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.
• Clean up stains as soon as you can — before
they set.
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Special Fabric Cleaning Problems
Cleaning Vinyl
Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black),
egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine
and blood can be removed as follows:
Use warm water and a clean cloth.
• Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt. You
may have to do this more than once.
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the
soiled area with cool water.
• Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if
you do not get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth
and vinyl cleaner. See your dealer for this product.
2. If a stain remains, follow the cleaning instructions
described earlier.
Cleaning Leather
3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat
the area with a water and baking soda solution:
1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml)
of lukewarm water.
Use a soft cloth with lukewarm water and a mild soap or
saddle soap and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Then, let
the leather dry naturally. Do not use heat to dry.
4. Let dry.
• For stubborn stains, use a leather cleaner.
Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili
sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:
• Never use oils, varnishes, solvent-based or abrasive
cleaners, furniture polish or shoe polish on leather.
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain.
• Soiled or stained leather should be cleaned
immediately. If dirt is allowed to work into the finish,
it can harm the leather.
2. Clean with cool water and allow to dry completely.
3. If a stain remains, follow the cleaner instructions
described earlier.
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Cleaning the Top of the Instrument
Panel
Care of Safety Belts
Keep belts clean and dry.
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces
of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones
or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the
windshield and even make it difficult to see through the
windshield under certain conditions.
{CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it
may severely weaken them. In a crash, they
might not be able to provide adequate
protection. Clean safety belts only with mild
soap and lukewarm water.
Cleaning Interior Plastic Components
Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth
or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the
surface finish.
Cleaning Glass Surfaces
Weatherstrips
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a
liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal
tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply
silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every
six months. During very cold, damp weather more
frequent application may be required. See Part
Notice: If you use abrasive cleaners when cleaning
glass surfaces on your vehicle, you could scratch
the glass and/or cause damage to the rear window
defogger and the integrated radio antenna. When
cleaning the glass on your vehicle, use only a soft
cloth and glass cleaner.
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Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses
Cleaning the Outside of Your
Vehicle
Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car
washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses.
Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth
of color, gloss retention and durability.
Finish Care
Washing Your Vehicle
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by
hand may be necessary to remove residue from the
paint finish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products
from your dealer. See Vehicle Care/Appearance
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to
keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or
cold water.
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps
or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle
well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get
GM-approved cleaning products from your dealer.
Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based,
or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents
should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the
surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft,
clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to avoid surface
scratches and water spotting.
If your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish.
The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored
basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are
non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint
finish.
Notice: Machine compounding or aggressive
polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may
damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and
polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat
paint finish on your vehicle.
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter
your vehicle.
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Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other
salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird
droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc.,
can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain
on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as
possible. If necessary, use non-abrasive cleaners that
are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove
foreign matter.
Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades
and affect their performance. Clean the blade by
wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full-strength
windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade
with water.
Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary;
replace blades that look worn.
Cleaning Aluminum Wheels
Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather
and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a
period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish
looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered
whenever possible.
Keep your wheels clean using a soft clean cloth with
mild soap and water. Rinse with clean water. After
rinsing thoroughly, dry with a soft clean towel. A wax
may then be applied.
Cleaning the Windshield, Backglass
and Wiper Blades
The surface of these wheels is similar to the painted
surface of your vehicle. Don’t use strong soaps,
chemicals, abrasive polishes, abrasive cleaners,
cleaners with acid, or abrasive cleaning brushes on
them because you could damage the surface. Do not
use chrome polish on aluminum wheels.
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield
washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running,
wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or
windshield.
Don’t take your vehicle through an automatic car wash
that has silicone carbide tire cleaning brushes. These
brushes can also damage the surface of these wheels.
Clean the outside of the windshield with a full-strength
glass cleaning liquid. The windshield is clean if beads do
not form when you rinse it with water.
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Cleaning Tires
Underbody Maintenance
To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with tire cleaner.
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust
control can collect on the underbody. If these are not
removed, corrosion and rust can develop on the
underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and
exhaust system even though they have corrosion
protection.
Notice: Using petroleum-based tire dressing
products on your vehicle may damage the paint
finish and/or tires. When applying a tire dressing,
always wipe off any overspray from all painted
surfaces on your vehicle.
At least every spring, flush these materials from the
underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud
and debris can collect. Dirt packed in close areas of
the frame should be loosened before being flushed.
Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can
do this for you.
Sheet Metal Damage
If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal
repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop
applies anti-corrosion material to parts repaired or
replaced to restore corrosion protection.
Chemical Paint Spotting
Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the
corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.
Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a
chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and
attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage
can take two forms: blotchy, ring-shaped discolorations,
and small, irregular dark spots etched into the paint
surface.
Finish Damage
Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the
finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal
will corrode quickly and may develop into major repair
expense.
Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will
repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of
new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within
12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase,
whichever occurs first.
Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch-up
materials avaliable from your dealer. Larger areas of
finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s
body and paint shop.
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Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
(cont’d)
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
See your GM dealer for more information on purchasing
the following products.
Description
Usage
Removes swirl marks,
fine scratches and other
light surface
Swirl Remover Polish
Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
contamination.
Description
Usage
Removes light scratches
and protects finish.
Polishing Cloth
Wax-Treated
Interior and exterior
polishing cloth.
Cleaner Wax
Cleans, shines and
protects in one easy step,
no wiping necessary.
Tar and Road Oil
Remover
Removes tar, road oil and
asphalt.
Foaming Tire Shine
Low Gloss
Chrome Cleaner and
Polish
Use on chrome or
stainless steel.
Medium foaming
shampoo. Cleans and
lightly waxes.
Biodegradable and
phosphate free.
White Sidewall Tire
Cleaner
Removes soil and black
marks from whitewalls.
Wash Wax Concentrate
Cleans vinyl tops,
upholstery and
convertible tops.
Vinyl Cleaner
Glass Cleaner
Quickly and easily
removes spots and stains
from carpets, vinyl and
cloth upholstery.
Spot Lifter
Removes dirt, grime,
smoke and fingerprints.
Odorless spray odor
eliminator used on
fabrics, vinyl, leather and
carpet.
Removes dirt and grime
from chrome wheels and
wire wheel covers.
Chrome and Wire Wheel
Cleaner
Odor Eliminator
Removes dust,
See your General Motors parts department for these
products. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and
fingerprints, and surface
contaminants. Spray on
wipe off.
Finish Enhancer
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Service Parts Identification Label
Vehicle Identification
You’ll find this label inside the glove box on the door. It’s
very helpful if you ever need to order parts. On this
label is:
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
• your VIN,
• the model designation,
• paint information and
• a list of all production options and special
equipment.
Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on
a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on
the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the
windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also
appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts
labels and the certificates of title and registration.
Electrical System
Add-On Electrical Equipment
Notice: Don’t add anything electrical to your
vehicle unless you check with your dealer first.
Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle
and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your
warranty. Some add-on electrical equipment can
keep other components from working as they
should.
Engine Identification
The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This
code will help you identify your engine, specifications
and replacement parts.
Your vehicle has an air bag system. Before attempting
to add anything electrical to your vehicle, see
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Instrument Panel Fuse Block
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from
short circuits by fuses, circuit breakers and thermal links
in the wiring itself. This greatly reduces the chance of
fires caused by electrical problems.
Look at the metallic band inside the fuse. If the band is
broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you
replace a bad fuse with a new one of the correct size.
If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a
spare fuse, you can borrow one. Just pick some
feature of your vehicle that you can get along
without — like the radio or cigarette lighter — and use
its fuse, if it is the size you need. Replace it as soon as
you can.
Before replacing a fuse, turn every vehicle electrical
switch off.
This fuse block is located under the driver’s side of the
instrument panel. The fuses here protect each
separate circuit including headlamps. There are spare
fuses inside the fuse box. If you have electrical
failure, check here first.
There are two fuse blocks in your vehicle: the instrument
panel fuse block and the engine compartment fuse
block.
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Fuses
Usage
Power Windows
P/W
DOM
TAIL
HAZ
IG
Dome Light, Radio Memory
License Plate Light,
Clearance/Marker Lights, Instrument
Panel Illumination, Warning Tone
Hazard Lights, Turn Signal
Oxygen Sensor Heater, Cruise
Control, Ignition Coil, Meter, G
Sensor
Cigar/Cigarette Lighter, Radio,
Power Mirror
Door Locks
CIG
D/L
Brake Light, Horn, Center
High-Mounted Stop Lamp,
Cruise Control
STP
FOG
DEF
S/H
Not Used
Rear Window Defogger, DRL,
Heater, Air Conditioning
Not Used
Turn Signal, Back-Up Light,
Hazard Lights
TRN
Windshield Wiper/Washer, Rear
Window Wiper/Washer
WIP
Fuses for the air bags and the heater/air conditioning
system are located next to the instrument panel
fuse block.
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For access to the main fuses, pull off the cover.
Engine Compartment Fuse Block
Fuses/Relays
Usage
Accessory Power Outlet
Electronic Fuel Injection System
Right Headlamp
Left Headlamp, High-Beam Indicator
Heater
1
2
3
4
5
The engine compartment fuse block is located in the
engine compartment on the passenger’s side of
the vehicle and protects all electrical loads. See Engine
information on location.
Hazard Lamps, Rear Combination
Lamps, Dome Light, Horn
6
Cigar Lighter, Radio, I.G., Meter,
Wiper, Washer, Rear Defroster,
Turn Signals, Back-Up Lamps
7
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Fuses/Relays
Usage
Anti-Lock Brake System
All Electrical Loads
Shift Lock (Relay)
Fuses/Relays
Usage
8
9
10
11
12
Air Conditioning Compressor (Relay)
Air Conditioning Condenser Fan
(Relay)
13
14
Air Conditioning
(2.5L Engine Horn (Relay)
Only)
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Capacities and Specifications
The following approximate capacities are given in English and metric conversions.
Capacities and Specifications
Capacities
Application
English
Metric
Air Conditioning Refrigerant R134a and Polyalkylene
Glycol (PAG) refrigerant oil with dye
0.9 lbs.
0.4 kg
Automatic Transmission
Drain and Refill
2.6 quarts
8.5 quarts
2.5 L*
8.0 L
Cooling System
Differential
Front
Rear
1.1 quarts
2.3 quarts
1.0 L*
2.2 L*
Engine Oil with Filter
Fuel Tank
5.8 quarts
5.5 L**
64 L
16.9 gallons
Manual Transmission
Four-Wheel Drive
Two-Wheel Drive
1.6 quarts
2.0 quarts
1.5 L*
1.9 L*
5-98
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Capacities and Specifications (cont’d)
Capacities
Application
English
1.8 quarts
73 lbft
Metric
1.7 L
Transfer Case
100 Y
Wheels and Tires
Wheel Nut Torque
Plastic Wheel Nut Cap Torque
Tighten by hand plus
one half turn with wheel
wrench
*Recheck fluid level after filling. See Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-20 or Manual Transmission Fluid on
page 5-23.
**When changing the oil filter, additional oil may be needed. Recheck the oil level after filling. See Engine Oil on
page 5-13.
Engine Specifications
Engine
VIN Code
Transmission
Spark Plug Gap
V6
4
Automatic
0.043 inch (1.1 mm)
5-99
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Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Replacement parts identified below by name, part number, or specification can be obtained from your dealer.
Part
GM Part Number
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
Engine Oil Filter
Passenger Compartment Air Filters
PCV Valve
30025009 or equivalent
91176162 or equivalent
91175923 or equivalent
91176183 or equivalent
3-volt CR2032 or equivalent
Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Battery
91176020 (NGK IFR5J11/Iridium plug),
91173854 (NGK BKR6E11/Nickel plug)
or 91173855 (DENSO
Spark Plugs
K20PR-U11/Nickel plug)
5-100
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✍ NOTES
5-102
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Maintenance Requirements
Maintenance Schedule
Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections and
recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in this
manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good
working condition. Any damage caused by failure
to follow scheduled maintenance may not be covered by
warranty.
Introduction
Important: Keep engine oil at the proper level and
change as recommended.
Your Vehicle and the Environment
Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your
vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the
environment. Improper vehicle maintenance can
even affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper
fluid levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase
the level of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect
our environment, and to keep your vehicle in good
condition, be sure to maintain your vehicle properly.
Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan
supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your
Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet or your dealer
for details.
6-2
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If you want to get the service information, see Service
How This Section is Organized
This maintenance schedule is divided into five parts:
“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you what
should be checked and when. It also explains what
you can easily do to help keep your vehicle in good
condition.
“Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” explains
what to have done and how often. Some of these
services can be complex, so unless you are technically
qualified and have the necessary equipment, you
should let your GM dealer’s service department do
these jobs.
“Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections” explains
important inspections that your dealer’s service
department can perform for you.
Your GM dealer has GM-trained and supported
service people that will perform the work using genuine
GM parts.
“Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists
some recommended products necessary to help
keep your vehicle properly maintained. These products,
or their equivalents, should be used whether you do
the work yourself or have it done.
{CAUTION:
“Part E: Maintenance Record” is a place for you to
record and keep track of the maintenance performed on
your vehicle. Keep your maintenance receipts. They
may be needed to qualify your vehicle for warranty
repairs.
Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can
be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you
can be seriously injured. Do your own
maintenance work only if you have the
required know-how and the proper tools and
equipment for the job. If you have any doubt,
have a qualified technician do the work.
6-3
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The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in
Part D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle uses
these. All parts should be replaced and all necessary
repairs done before you or anyone else drives the
vehicle.
Part A: Scheduled Maintenance
Services
In this part are scheduled maintenance services which
are to be performed at the mileage intervals specified.
These schedules are for vehicles that:
• carry passengers and cargo within recommended
limits. You will find these on the tire and loading
information label. See Loading Your Vehicle
on page 4-51.
Using Your Maintenance Schedule
We at General Motors want to keep your vehicle in good
working condition. But we do not know exactly how
you will drive it. You may drive short distances only a
few times a week. Or you may drive long distances
all the time in very hot, dusty weather. You may
use your vehicle in making deliveries. Or you may drive
it to work, to do errands or in many other ways.
• are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal
driving limits.
• are driven off-road in the recommended manner.
Because of the different ways people use their vehicles,
maintenance needs may vary. You may need more
frequent checks and replacements. So please read the
following and note how you drive. If you have
questions on how to keep your vehicle in good condition,
see your dealer.
on page 5-4.
Selecting the Right Schedule
First you will need to decide which of the two schedules
is right for your vehicle. Here is how to decide which
schedule to follow:
This part tells you the maintenance services you should
have done and when to schedule them.
When you go to your dealer for your service needs, you
will know that GM-trained and supported service
people will perform the work using genuine GM parts.
6-4
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Short Trip/City Definition
Short Trip/City Intervals
Follow the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance if any
one of these conditions is true for your vehicle:
Every 3,000 Miles (5 000 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs first).
• Most trips are less than 5 miles (8 km). This is
particularly important when outside temperatures
are below freezing.
Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km): Passenger
Compartment Air Filter Inspection (If Equipped).
Tire Rotation.
• Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent
driving in stop-and-go traffic).
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Inspection. Automatic Transmission Service
(severe conditions only). Manual Transmission Fluid
Change. Transfer Case Fluid Change. Differential Fluid
Change. Propeller Shafts and U-Joints Inspection
(or every 15 months, whichever occurs first).
• You frequently tow a trailer or use a carrier on top
of your vehicle.
• If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police,
taxi or other commercial application.
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Replacement. Air Filter Replacement (If Equipped).
Ignition Coil Plug Cap Inspection (or every 30 months,
whichever occurs first). Engine Accessory Drive Belt
Inspection (or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).
Cooling System Service (or every 30 months,
whichever occurs first). Fuel Tank, Cap, and Lines
Inspection. Fuel Filter Replacement (or every 30 months,
whichever occurs first).
One of the reasons you should follow this schedule if
you operate your vehicle under any of these conditions
is that these conditions cause engine oil to break
down sooner.
6-5
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Every 45,000 Miles (75 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Fluid Hose Inspection (or every
45 months, whichever occurs first).
Long Trip/Highway Definition
Follow this scheduled maintenance only if none of the
conditions from the Short Trip/City Scheduled
Maintenance are true. Do not use this schedule if the
vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area
or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City
schedule for these conditions.
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Fuel Tank Cap
Gasket Replacement. Emission System Hoses
Inspection. Brake Fluid Service. Spark Plug
Replacement.
Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under
highway conditions will cause engine oil to break down
slower.
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service (normal conditions).
Every 120 000 Miles (200 000 km): Evaporative
Emissions Canister and Air Suction Filter Replacement
(or every 120 months, whichever occurs first). Engine
Accessory Drive Belt Replacement (or every
120 months, whichever occurs first).
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or every 7.5 months, whichever occurs
first). Tire Rotation.
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance
on the following pages.
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Engine Air Cleaner
Filter Inspection. Automatic Transmission Service
(severe conditions only). Passenger Compartment Air
Filter Inspection (If Equipped). Propeller Shafts and
U-Joints Inspection (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first).
6-6
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Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Engine Accessory
Drive Belt Inspection (or every 30 months, whichever
occurs first). Cooling System Service (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). Fuel Tank, Cap and
Lines Inspection. Engine Air Cleaner Filter Replacement.
Passenger Compartment Air Filter Replacement (If
Equipped). Ignition Coil Plug Cap Inspection (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). Manual Transmission
Fluid Change. Transfer Case Fluid Change. Differential
Fluid Change. Fuel Filter Replacement (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first).
Short Trip/City Scheduled
Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of
this vehicle. The service shown at 120,000 miles
(200 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval
after 120,000 miles (200 000 km) for the life of this
vehicle.
page 6-28.
Every 45,000 Miles (75 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Fluid Hose Inspection (or every
45 months, whichever occurs first).
Footnotes
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Fuel Tank Cap
Gasket Replacement. Emission System Hoses
Inspection. Spark Plug Replacement. Brake Fluid
Service.
† The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to
the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however,
urge that all recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service (normal conditions).
Every 120,000 Miles (200 000 km): Evaporative
Emissions Canister and Air Suction Filter Replacement
(or every 120 months, whichever occurs first).
maintenance be recorded.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance
on the following pages.
6-7
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3,000 Miles (5 000 km)
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ Inspect engine air cleaner filter. If necessary, replace
the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions,
inspect filter at every engine oil change. See
information.An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
6,000 Miles (10 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
air filters.
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
9,000 Miles (15 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
12,000 Miles (20 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
air filters.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
6-8
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If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
24,000 Miles (40 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ Change manual transmission fluid.
❑ Change transfer case fluid.
❑ Change differential fluid.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
air filters.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
27,000 Miles (45 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
18,000 Miles (30 000 km)
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
air filters.
❑ If Equipped: Replace passenger compartment
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
air filters.
❑ Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks.
Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace
parts as needed. An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
21,000 Miles (35 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). An Emission
Control Service.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
6-9
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❑ Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). See Engine
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.
Pressure test the cooling system and pressure
cap. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Inspect ignition coil plug cap (or every 30 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service. (See footnote †.)
❑ Change manual transmission fluid.
❑ Change transfer case fluid.
❑ Change differential fluid.
An Emission Control Service.
❑ Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever
occurs first, or sooner if filter is clogged). An
Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
33,000 Miles (55 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
6-10
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❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
36,000 Miles (60 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
air filters.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
39,000 Miles (65 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
42,000 Miles (70 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Inspect engine air cleaner filter. If necessary, replace
the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions,
inspect filter at every engine oil change. See
information.An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
air filters.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Change manual transmission fluid.
❑ Change transfer case fluid.
❑ Change differential fluid.
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ Inspect automatic transmission fluid hose (or
every 45 months, whichever occurs first).
6-11
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48,000 Miles (80 000 km)
57,000 Miles (95 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
air filters.
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Replace passenger compartment
air filters.
51,000 Miles (85 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
54,000 Miles (90 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
air filters.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
6-12
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If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
❑ Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever
occurs first).An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
❑ Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). An Emission
Control Service.
❑ Change manual transmission fluid.
❑ Change transfer case fluid.
❑ Change differential fluid.
❑ Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). See Engine
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.
Pressure test the cooling system and pressure
cap. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
❑ Inspect emission system hoses and replace as
necessary. An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
❑ Replace spark plugs. An Emission Control Service.
❑ Inspect ignition coil plug cap (or every 30 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
63,000 Miles (105 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Drain, refill and bleed the brake system.
❑ Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks.
Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace
parts as needed. An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
66,000 Miles (110 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
An Emission Control Service.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
air filters.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
6-13
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If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
69,000 Miles (115 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ Inspect engine air cleaner filter. If necessary, replace
the filter. If vehicle is driven in dusty/dirty conditions,
inspect filter at every engine oil change. See
information.An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
72,000 Miles (120 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If equipped: Inspect passenger compartment air
filters.
❑ Change manual transmission fluid.
❑ Change transfer case fluid.
❑ Change differential fluid.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if
the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more
of these conditions:
78,000 Miles (130 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
air filters.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
6-14
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❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
81,000 Miles (135 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
84,000 Miles (140 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
air filters.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
87,000 Miles (145 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Inspect engine accessory drive belts
(or every 30 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks.
Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace
parts as needed. An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Replace passenger compartment
❑ Inspect ignition coil plug cap (or every 30 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
air filters.
❑ Inspect automatic transmission fluid hose
(or every 45 months, whichever occurs first).
6-15
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❑ Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). See Engine
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.
Pressure test the cooling system and pressure
cap. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
93,000 Miles (155 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
96,000 Miles (160 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
An Emission Control Service.
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment
air filters.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Change manual transmission fluid.
❑ Change transfer case fluid.
❑ Change differential fluid.
99,000 Miles (165 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months,
❑ Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever
occurs first).An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control Service.
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
❑ If you have not used your vehicle under severe
service conditions listed previously and, therefore,
have not changed your automatic transmission fluid,
change both the fluid and filter.
120,000 Miles (200 000 km)
❑ Replace evaporative emission canister and air
suction filter (or every 120 months, whichever occurs
first). An Emission Control Service.
6-16
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7,500 Miles (12 500 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled
Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be repeated after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals for the life of
this vehicle. The services shown at 120,000 miles
(200 000 km) should be repeated at the same interval
after 120,000 miles (200 000 km) for the life of this
vehicle.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
page 6-28.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
Footnotes
† The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the
failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify
the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to
the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however,
urge that all recommended maintenance services be
performed at the indicated intervals and the
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment air
filters.
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
maintenance be recorded.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
6-17
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If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
22,500 Miles (37 500 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). An Emission
Control Service.
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
❑ Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). See Engine
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.
Pressure test the cooling system and pressure
cap. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
❑ If Equipped: Replace passenger compartment air
filters.
6-18
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❑ Inspect ignition coil plug cap (or every 30 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service. (See footnote †.)
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
An Emission Control Service.
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
❑ Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks.
Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace
parts as needed. An Emission Control Service. (See
footnote †.)
Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
❑ Change manual transmission fluid.
❑ Change transfer case fluid.
❑ Change differential fluid.
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment air
filters.
❑ Inspect automatic transmission fluid hose (or every
❑ Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever
occurs first, or sooner if filter is clogged). An
Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
45 months, whichever occurs first).
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
37,500 Miles (62 500 km)
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
6-19
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If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
52,500 Miles (87 500 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). An Emission
Control Service.
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
❑ Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). See Engine
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.
Pressure test the cooling system and pressure
cap. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
❑ If Equipped: Replace passenger compartment air
filters.
❑ Replace spark plugs. An Emission Control Service.
6-20
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❑ Inspect ignition coil plug cap (or every 30 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
67,500 Miles (112 500 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
An Emission Control Service.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks.
Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace
parts as needed. An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
❑ Change manual transmission fluid.
❑ Change transfer case fluid.
❑ Change differential fluid.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
❑ Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever
occurs first.An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
❑ If Equipped: Inspect passenger compartment air
filters.
❑ Inspect emission system hoses and replace as
necessary. An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
❑ Drain, refill and bleed the brake system.
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
6-21
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If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
❑ Inspect engine accessory drive belts (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). An Emission
Control Service.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Inspect automatic transmission fluid hose (or every
45 months, whichever occurs first).
❑ Change automatic transmission fluid and filter if the
vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these
conditions:
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
− In heavy city traffic where the outside
temperature regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or
higher.
− In hilly or mountainous terrain.
82,500 Miles (137 500 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
− When doing frequent trailer towing.
− Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the fluid and filter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
❑ Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every
30 months, whichever occurs first). See Engine
Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.
Pressure test the cooling system and pressure
cap. An Emission Control Service. (See footnote †.)
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
❑ If Equipped: Replace passenger compartment air
filters.
❑ Inspect ignition coil plug cap (or every 30 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
6-22
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An Emission Control Service.
97,500 Miles (162 500 km)
❑ Change engine oil and filter (or every 7.5 months,
whichever occurs first). An Emission Control
Service.
❑ Inspect fuel tank, cap and lines for damage or leaks.
Inspect fuel cap gasket for any damage. Replace
parts as needed. An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
❑ Change manual transmission fluid.
❑ Change transfer case fluid.
❑ Change differential fluid.
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
❑ If you have not used your vehicle under severe
service conditions listed previously and, therefore,
have not changed your automatic transmission fluid,
change both the fluid and filter.
❑ Replace fuel filter (or every 30 months, whichever
occurs first.An Emission Control Service.
(See footnote †.)
❑ Inspect propeller shafts and U-joints for looseness
and damage (or every 15 months, whichever
occurs first). Inspect more frequently if used off-road
or for pulling a trailer. Tighten U-joint flange bolts
if necessary.
120,000 Miles (200 000 km)
❑ Replace evaporative emissions canister and air
suction filter (or every 120 months, whichever occurs
first). An Emission Control Service.
page 5-64 for proper rotation pattern and additional
information. (See footnote +.)
6-23
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Windshield Washer Fluid Level Check
Part B: Owner Checks and Services
Check the windshield washer fluid level in the windshield
washer tank and add the proper fluid if necessary.
details.
Listed in this part are owner checks and services
which should be performed at the intervals specified to
help ensure the safety, dependability and emission
control performance of your vehicle.
Be sure any necessary repairs are completed at once.
Whenever any fluids or lubricants are added to your
vehicle, make sure they are the proper ones, as shown
in Part D.
Hood Latch Operation Check
Pull the primary hood latch release handle inside the
vehicle. The secondary latch should keep the hood from
opening all the way when the primary latch is released.
Make sure the hood closes firmly. See Hood Release
on page 5-10 for further details.
At Each Fuel Fill
It is important for you or a service station attendant to
perform these underhood checks at each fuel fill.
At Least Once a Month
Tire Inflation Check
Engine Oil Level Check
Check the engine oil level and add the proper oil if
details.
Visually inspect your tires and make sure tires are
inflated to the correct pressures. Do not forget to check
details.
Engine Coolant Level Check
Check the engine coolant level and add the proper
page 5-25 for further details.
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Fluid Level Check
At Least Twice a Year
Restraint System Check
Check the transfer case, axle differential(s) and
automatic or manual transmission fluid levels and add
page 5-23. Check for leaks. A fluid loss in these systems
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired at once.
Make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your
belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages
are working properly. Look for any other loose or
damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything
that might keep a safety belt system from doing its
job, have it repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts
replaced.
At Least Once a Year
Also look for any opened or broken air bag coverings,
and have them repaired or replaced. (The air bag
system does not need regular maintenance.)
Key Lock Cylinders Service
Lubricate the key lock cylinders with the lubricant
specified in Part D.
Wiper Blade Check
Inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace
blade inserts that appear worn or damaged or that
streak or miss areas of the windshield. Also see
Body Lubrication Service
Lubricate all body door hinges. Also lubricate all hinges
and latches, including those for the hood, rear
compartment, glove box door, console door and folding
seat hardware. Part D tells you what to use. More
frequent lubrication may be required when exposed to a
corrosive environment.
Weatherstrip Lubrication
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last
longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply
silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold,
damp weather more frequent application may be
required. See Part D: Recommended Fluids and
6-25
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Starter Switch Check
Automatic Transmission Shift Lock
Control System Check
{CAUTION:
{CAUTION:
When you are doing this inspection, the
vehicle could move suddenly. If the vehicle
moves, you or others could be injured.
When you are doing this inspection, the
vehicle could move suddenly. If the vehicle
moves, you or others could be injured.
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room
around the vehicle.
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room
around the vehicle. It should be parked on a level
surface.
2. Firmly apply both the parking brake and the regular
necessary.
on page 2-24 if necessary.
Do not use the accelerator pedal, and be ready to
turn off the engine immediately if it starts.
Be ready to apply the regular brake immediately if
the vehicle begins to move.
3. On automatic transmission vehicles, try to start the
engine in each gear. The starter should work only
in PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N). If the starter works in
any other position, your vehicle needs service.
3. With the engine off, turn the key to the ON position,
but do not start the engine. Without applying the
regular brake, try to move the shift lever out
On manual transmission vehicles, put the shift lever
in NEUTRAL (N), push the clutch down halfway and
try to start the engine. The starter should work only
when the clutch is pushed down all the way to the
floor. If the starter works when the clutch is not
pushed all the way down, your vehicle needs service.
of PARK (P) with normal effort. If the shift lever
moves out of PARK (P), your vehicle needs service.
6-26
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Park on a fairly steep hill, with the vehicle facing
downhill. Keeping your foot on the regular brake, set the
parking brake.
Ignition Transmission Lock Check
While parked, and with the parking brake set, try to turn
the ignition key to LOCK in each shift lever position.
• To check the parking brake’s holding ability: With
the engine running and transmission in
• With an automatic transmission, the key should turn
to LOCK only when the shift lever is in PARK (P).
NEUTRAL (N), slowly remove foot pressure from
the regular brake pedal. Do this until the vehicle is
held by the parking brake only.
• With a manual transmission, the key should turn to
LOCK only if you push the key in farther, while
turning it towards LOCK.
• To check the PARK (P) mechanism’s holding ability:
With the engine running, shift to PARK (P). Then
release the parking brake followed by the regular
brake.
On all vehicles, the key should come out only in LOCK.
Parking Brake and Automatic
Transmission Park (P) Mechanism
Check
If your vehicle is four-wheel drive, be sure the
transfer case is not in NEUTRAL.
Underbody Flushing Service
At least every spring, use plain water to flush any
corrosive materials from the underbody. Take care to
clean thoroughly any areas where mud and other debris
can collect.
{CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, your vehicle
could begin to move. You or others could be
injured and property could be damaged. Make
sure there is room in front of your vehicle in
case it begins to roll. Be ready to apply the
regular brake at once should the vehicle begin
to move.
6-27
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Part C: Periodic Maintenance
Inspections
Exhaust System Inspection
Inspect the complete exhaust system. Inspect the body
near the exhaust system. Look for broken, damaged,
missing or out-of-position parts as well as open seams,
holes, loose connections or other conditions which
could cause a heat build-up in the floor pan or could let
exhaust fumes into the vehicle. See Engine Exhaust
on page 2-29.
Listed in this part are inspections and services which
should be performed at least twice a year (for instance,
each spring and fall). You should let your dealer’s
service department do these jobs. Make sure any
necessary repairs are completed at once.
Proper procedures to perform these services may be
found in a service manual. See Service Publications
Fuel System Inspection
Inspect the complete fuel system for damage or leaks.
Steering, Suspension and Front
Drive Axle Boot and Seal Inspection
Engine Cooling System Inspection
Inspect the hoses and have them replaced if they
are cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect all pipes,
fittings and clamps; replace as needed. Clean the
outside of the radiator and air conditioning condenser.
To help ensure proper operation, a pressure test of
the cooling system and pressure cap is recommended
at least once a year.
Inspect the front and rear suspension and steering
system for damaged, loose or missing parts, signs of
wear or lack of lubrication. Inspect the power steering
lines and hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks,
cracks, chafing, etc. Clean and then inspect the drive
axle boot seals for damage, tears or leakage. Replace
seals if necessary.
6-28
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Throttle System Inspection
Brake System Inspection
Inspect the throttle system for interference or binding,
and for damaged or missing parts. Replace parts
as needed. Replace any components that have high
effort or excessive wear. Do not lubricate accelerator
and cruise control cables.
Inspect the complete system. Inspect brake lines and
hoses for proper hook-up, binding, leaks, cracks,
chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and rotors
for surface condition. Also inspect drum brake linings
for wear and cracks. Inspect other brake parts, including
drums, wheel cylinders, calipers, parking brake, etc.
Check parking brake adjustment. You may need to have
your brakes inspected more often if your driving
habits or conditions result in frequent braking.
Rear Axle and Front Axle
(Four-Wheel-Drive) Service
Check the gear lubricant level and add if needed. See
page 5-49. A fluid loss may indicate a problem. Check
the system(s), and repair the system(s) if needed. Refer
page 6-4 to determine when to change the lubricant.
6-29
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Part D: Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants
Usage
Fluid/Lubricant
Delco Supreme 11® Brake Fluid
or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid.
Hydraulic Brake
System
Fluids and lubricants identified below by name, part
number or specification may be obtained from your
dealer.
Windshield
Washer Solvent
GM Optikleen® Washer Solvent.
Hydraulic Clutch Fluid
Hydraulic Clutch
System
(GM Part No. U.S. 12345347, in
Canada 10953517) or equivalent
DOT-3 brake fluid.
Usage
Fluid/Lubricant
Engine oil which meets GM
Standard GM6094M and displays
the American Petroleum Institute
Certified for Gasoline Engines
starburst symbol. To determine
the proper viscosity for your
vehicle’s engine, see Engine Oil
on page 5-13.
Chassis Lubricant
(GM Part No. U.S. 12377985, in
Canada 88901242) or lubricant
meeting requirements of
Parking Brake
Cable Guides
Engine Oil
NLGI #2, Category LB or GC-LB.
DEXRON®-III Automatic
Transmission Fluid.
Power Steering
System
50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable
water (preferably distilled)
and good quality Ethylene
Glycol Base Coolant
(GM Part No. U.S. 12378560, in
Canada 993089, or equivalent)
and conforming to GM
Specification 1825M or approved
recycled coolant conforming to
GM Specification 1825M. See
Manual
Synchromesh Transmission Fluid
(GM Part No. U.S. 12345349, in
Canada 10953465).
Transmission (All)
and Transfer Case
(Four-Wheel-Drive)
Engine Coolant
Automatic
Transmission
DEXRON®-III Automatic
Transmission Fluid.
6-30
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Usage
Key Lock
Fluid/Lubricant
Usage
Fluid/Lubricant
Chassis Lubricant
Multi-Purpose
Lubricant, Superlube
(GM Part No. U.S. 12346241, in
Canada 10953474).
(GM Part No. U.S. 12377985, in
Canada 88901242) or lubricant
meeting requirements of
Chassis
Lubrication
Cylinders
NLGI #2, Category LB or GC-LB.
Chassis Lubricant
(GM Part No. U.S. 12377985, in
Manual
Axle Lubricant
Rear Axle (All)
and Front Axle
(Four-Wheel Drive)
Transmission Shift Canada 88901242) or lubricant
(GM Part No. U.S. 12345977, in
Canada 10953482) or
Linkage
meeting requirements of
NLGI #2, Category LB or GC-LB.
SAE 80W-90 GL-5 gear lubricant.
Chassis Lubricant
Hood Latch
Lubriplate Lubricant Aerosol
(GM Part No. U.S. 12346293, in
Canada 992723) or lubricant
meeting requirements of
(GM Part No. U.S. 12377985, in
Canada 88901242) or lubricant
meeting requirements of
Assembly,
Clutch Linkage
Pivot Points
Secondary Latch,
Pivots, Spring
Anchor and
NLGI #2, Category LB or GC-LB.
NLGI #2, Category LB or GC-LB.
Release Pawl
Lubriplate Lubricant Aerosol
(GM Part No. U.S. 12346293, in
Floor Shift Linkage Canada 992723) or lubricant
meeting requirements of NLGI #2
Category LB or GC-LB.
Multi-Purpose
Hood and Door
Hinges
Lubricant, Superlube
(GM Part No. U.S. 12346241, in
Canada 10953474).
Dielectric Silicone Grease
(GM Part No. U.S. 12345579, in
Canada 992887).
Weatherstrip
Conditioning
6-31
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Part E: Maintenance Record
After the scheduled services are performed, record the date, odometer reading and who performed the service and
any additional information from “Owner Checks and Services” or “Periodic Maintenance” on the following record
pages. Also, you should retain all maintenance receipts.
Maintenance Record
Odometer
Reading
Date
Serviced By
Maintenance Record
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Maintenance Record (cont’d)
Odometer
Reading
Date
Serviced By
Maintenance Record
6-33
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Maintenance Record (cont’d)
Odometer
Reading
Date
Serviced By
Maintenance Record
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We encourage you to call the toll-free number in order
to give your inquiry prompt attention. Please have
the following information available to give the Customer
Assistance Representative:
Customer Assistance and
Information
• Vehicle Identification Number (This is available from
the vehicle registration or title, or the plate at the
top left of the instrument panel and visible through
the windshield.)
Customer Satisfaction Procedure
Your satisfaction and goodwill are important to
your dealer and to Chevrolet. Normally, any concerns
with the sales transaction or the operation of your
vehicle will be resolved by your dealer’s sales or service
departments. Sometimes, however, despite the best
intentions of all concerned, misunderstandings can
occur. If your concern has not been resolved to your
satisfaction, the following steps should be taken:
• Dealership name and location
• Vehicle delivery date and present mileage
When contacting Chevrolet, please remember that your
concern will likely be resolved at a dealer’s facility.
That is why we suggest you follow Step One first if you
have a concern.
STEP ONE: Discuss your concern with a member of
dealership management. Normally, concerns can
be quickly resolved at that level. If the matter has
already been reviewed with the sales, service or parts
manager, contact the owner of the dealership or
the general manager.
STEP THREE: Both General Motors and your dealer
are committed to making sure you are completely
satisfied with your new vehicle. However, if you continue
to remain unsatisfied after following the procedure
outlined in Steps One and Two, you should file with the
BBB Auto Line Program to enforce any additional
rights you may have. Canadian owners refer to your
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information booklet for
information on the Canadian Motor Vehicle Arbitration
Plan (CAMVAP).
STEP TWO: If after contacting a member of dealership
management, it appears your concern cannot be
resolved by the dealership without further help, contact
the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center by calling
1-800-222-1020. In Canada, contact GM of Canada
Customer Communication Centre in Oshawa by calling
1-800-263-3777 (English) or 1-800-263-7854 (French).
7-2
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The BBB Auto Line Program is an out of court program
administered by the Council of Better Business
Bureaus to settle automotive disputes regarding vehicle
repairs or the interpretation of the New Vehicle
Limited Warranty. Although you may be required to
resort to this informal dispute resolution program prior to
filing a court action, use of the program is free of
charge and your case will generally be heard within
40 days. If you do not agree with the decision given in
your case, you may reject it and proceed with any other
venue for relief available to you.
Online Owner Center
The Owner Center is a resource for your GM ownership
needs. You can find your specific vehicle information
all in one place.
The Owner Center allows you to:
• Get e-mail service reminders.
• Access information about your specific vehicle,
including tips and videos and an electronic
version of this owner’s manual. (United States only)
You may contact the BBB Auto Line Program using the
toll-free telephone number or write them at the
following address:
• Keep track of your vehicle’s service history and
maintenance schedule.
• Find GM dealers for service nationwide.
BBB Auto Line Program
Council of Better Business Bureaus, Inc.
4200 Wilson Boulevard
Suite 800
• Receive special promotions and privileges only
available to members. (United States only)
Refer to the web for updated information.
Arlington, VA 22203-1804
To register your vehicle, visit www.MyGMLink.com.
(United States) or My GM Canada within
www.gmcanada.com (Canada).
Telephone: 1-800-955-5100
This program is available in all 50 states and the District
of Columbia. Eligibility is limited by vehicle age,
mileage and other factors. General Motors reserves the
right to change eligibility limitations and/or discontinue
its participation in this program.
7-3
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From U.S. Virgin Islands:
1-800-496-9994
Customer Assistance for Text
Telephone (TTY) Users
Fax Number: 313-381-0022
To assist customers who are deaf, hard of hearing, or
speech-impaired and who use Text Telephones (TTYs),
Chevrolet has TTY equipment available at its Customer
Assistance Center. Any TTY user can communicate
with Chevrolet by dialing: 1-800-833-CHEV (2438).
(TTY users in Canada can dial 1-800-263-3830.)
Canada – Customer Assistance
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
1-800-263-3777 (English)
1-800-263-7854 (French)
1-800-263-3830 (For Text Telephone devices (TTYs))
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-268-6800
Customer Assistance Offices
Chevrolet encourages customers to call the toll-free
number for assistance. If a U.S. customer wishes
to write to Chevrolet, the letter should be addressed to
Chevrolet’s Customer Assistance Center.
Overseas – Customer Assistance
Please contact the local General Motors Business Unit.
United States – Customer Assistance
Mexico, Central America and
Caribbean Islands/Countries
(Except Puerto Rico and U.S. Virgin
Islands) – Customer Assistance
Chevrolet Motor Division
Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 33170
Detroit, MI 48232-5170
1-800-222-1020
1-800-833-2438 (For Text Telephone devices (TTYs))
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-CHEV-USA® (243-8872)
Fax Number: 313-381-0022
General Motors de Mexico, S. de R.L. de C.V.
Customer Assistance Center
Paseo de la Reforma # 2740
Col. Lomas de Bezares
From Puerto Rico:
C.P. 11910, Mexico, D.F.
1-800-496-9992 (English)
1-800-496-9993 (Spanish)
Fax Number: 313-381-0022
01-800-508-0000
Long Distance: 011-52-53 29 0 800
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GM Mobility Program for Persons
with Disabilities
Roadside Assistance Program
Security While You Travel
1-800-CHEV-USA (243-8872)
This program, available to
qualified applicants, can
reimburse you up to
$1,000 toward eligible
aftermarket driver or
passenger adaptive
equipment you may
require for your vehicle
(hand controls,
As the proud owner of a new Chevrolet vehicle, you are
automatically enrolled in the Chevrolet Roadside
Assistance program. This value-added service is
intended to provide you with peace of mind as you drive
in the city or travel the open road. Chevrolet’s Roadside
Assistance toll-free number is staffed by courteous
and capable Roadside Assistance Representatives who
are available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.
wheelchair/scooter
lifts, etc.).
We will provide the following services during the
Bumper-to-Bumper warranty period, at no expense
to you:
• Fuel Delivery: Delivery of enough fuel
($5 maximum) for the customer to get to the
nearest service station.
This program can also provide you with free resource
information, such as area driver assessment centers and
mobility equipment installers. The offer is available for
a limited period of time from the date of vehicle
purchase/lease. For more details, or to determine your
vehicle’s eligibility, see your GM dealer or call the
GM Mobility Assistance Center at 1-800-323-9935. Text
telephone (TTY) users, call 1-800-833-9935.
• Lock-out Service (identification required):
Replacement keys or locksmith service will
be covered at no charge if you are unable to gain
entry into your vehicle. Delivery of the replacement
key will be covered within 10 miles.
GM of Canada also has a Mobility Program. Call
1-800-GM-DRIVE (463-7483) for details. All TTY users
call 1-800-263-3830.
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• Emergency Tow: Tow to the nearest dealership for
warranty service or in the event of a
• Model, year, color, and license plate number
• Mileage, Vehicle Identification Number and delivery
date of the vehicle
vehicle-disabling accident. Assistance when the
vehicle is mired in sand, mud or snow.
• Description of the problem
• Flat Tire Change: Installation of a spare tire will be
covered at no charge. (The customer is responsible
for the repair or replacement of the tire if not
covered by a warrantable failure.)
While we hope you never have the occasion to use our
service, it is added security while traveling for you
and your family. Remember, we are only a phone call
away. Chevrolet Roadside Assistance:
1-800-CHEV-USA (1-800-234-8872), text
telephone (TTY) users, call 1-888-889-2438.
• Jump Start: No-start occurrences which require a
battery jump start will be covered at no charge.
• Dealer Locator Service
Chevrolet reserves the right to limit services or
reimbursement to an owner or driver when, in
Chevrolet’s judgement, the claims become excessive in
frequency or type of occurrence.
In many instances, mechanical failures are covered
under Chevrolet’s Bumper-to-Bumper warranty.
However, when other services are utilized, our Roadside
Assistance Representatives will explain any payment
obligations you might incur.
Roadside Assistance is not part of or included in the
coverage provided by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
Buick reserves the right to make any changes or
discontinue the Roadside Assistance program at any
time without notification.
For prompt and efficient assistance when calling, please
provide the following to the Roadside Assistance
Representative:
• Your name, home address, and home telephone
number
Canadian Roadside Assistance
Vehicles purchased in Canada have an extensive
roadside assistance program accessible from anywhere
in Canada or the United States. Please refer to the
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information book.
• Telephone number of your location
• Location of the vehicle
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If your vehicle cannot be scheduled into the service
department immediately, keep driving it until it can be
scheduled for service, unless, of course, the problem is
safety-related. If it is, please call your dealership, let
them know this, and ask for instructions.
Courtesy Transportation
Chevrolet has always exemplified quality and value in
its offering of motor vehicles. To enhance your
ownership experience, we and our participating dealers
are proud to offer Courtesy Transportation, a customer
support program for new vehicles.
If the dealer requests that you simply drop the vehicle
off for service, you are urged to do so as early in
the work day as possible to allow for same day repair.
The Courtesy Transportation program is offered to retail
purchase/lease customers in conjunction with the
Bumper-to-Bumper coverage provided by the New
Vehicle Limited Warranty. Several transportation options
are available when warranty repairs are required.
This will reduce your inconvenience during warranty
repairs.
Transportation Options
Warranty service can generally be completed while you
wait. However, if you are unable to wait Chevrolet
helps minimize your inconvenience by providing several
transportation options. Depending on the circumstances,
your dealer can offer you one of the following:
Plan Ahead When Possible
Shuttle Service
When your vehicle requires warranty service, you
should contact your dealer and request an appointment.
By scheduling a service appointment and advising
your service consultant of your transportation needs,
your dealer can help minimize your inconvenience.
Participating dealers can provide you with shuttle
service to get you to your destination with minimal
interruption of your daily schedule. This includes a one
way or round trip shuttle service to a destination up
to 10 miles from the dealership.
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Public Transportation or Fuel
Reimbursement
Additional Program Information
Courtesy Transportation is available during the
Bumper-to-Bumper warranty coverage period, but it is
not part of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty. A
separate booklet entitled “Warranty and Owner
Assistance Information” furnished with each new vehicle
provides detailed warranty coverage information.
If your vehicle requires overnight warranty repairs,
reimbursement (five day maximum) may be available for
the use of public transportation such as taxi or bus. In
addition, should you arrange transportation through
a friend or relative, reimbursement for reasonable fuel
expenses (five day maximum) may be available.
Claim amounts should reflect actual costs and be
supported by original receipts.
Courtesy Transportation is available only at participating
dealers and all program options, such as shuttle
service, may not be available at every dealer. Please
contact you dealer for specific information about
availability. All Courtesy Transportation arrangements
will be administered by appropriate dealer personnel.
Courtesy Rental Vehicle
Your dealer may arrange to provide you with a courtesy
rental vehicle or reimburse you for a rental vehicle
you obtained if your vehicle is kept for a warranty repair.
Reimbursement will be limited to a maximum of
$30.00 a day and must be supported by receipts. This
requires that you sign and complete a rental agreement
and meet state, local and rental vehicle provider
requirements. Requirements vary and may include
minimum age requirements, insurance coverage, credit
card, etc. You are responsible for fuel usage charges
and may also be responsible for taxes, levies,
usage fees, excessive mileage or rental usage beyond
the completion of the repair.
Canadian Vehicles: For warranty repairs during
the Complete Vehicle Coverage period of the General
Motors of Canada New Vehicle Limited Warranty,
alternative transportation may be available under the
Courtesy Transportation Program. Please consult
your dealer for details.
General Motors reserves the right to unilaterally modify,
change or discontinue Courtesy Transportation at
any time and to resolve all questions of claim eligibility
pursuant to the terms and conditions described
herein at its sole discretion.
Generally it is not possible to provide a like-vehicle as a
courtesy rental.
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To read this information, special equipment is needed
and access to the vehicle or the SDM is required.
GM will not access information about a crash event or
share it with others other than
• with the consent of the vehicle owner or, if the
vehicle is leased, with the consent of the lessee,
• in response to an official request of police or similar
government office,
• as part of GM’s defense of litigation through the
discovery process, or
• as required by law.
In addition, once GM collects or receives data, GM may
• use the data for GM research needs,
• make it available for research where appropriate
confidentiality is to be maintained and need is
shown, or
• share summary data which is not tied to a specific
vehicle with non-GM organizations for research
purposes.
Vehicle Data Collection and Event
Data Records
Your vehicle, like other modern motor vehicles, has a
number of sophisticated computer systems that monitor
and control several aspects of the vehicle’s performance.
Your vehicle uses on-board vehicle computers to monitor
emission control components to optimize fuel economy,
to monitor conditions for airbag deployment and, if so
equipped, to provide anti-lock braking and to help the
driver control the vehicle in difficult driving situations.
Some information may be stored during regular
operations to facilitate repair of detected malfunctions;
other information is stored only in a crash or near crash
event by computer systems commonly called event data
recorders (EDR).
In a crash or near crash event, computer systems, such
as the Airbag Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
in your vehicle may record information about the
condition of the vehicle and how it was operated, such
as engine speed, brake applications, throttle position,
vehicle speed, seat belt usage, airbag readiness, airbag
performance data, and the severity of a collision. This
information has been used to improve vehicle crash
performance and may be used to improve crash
performance of future vehicles and driving safety. Unlike
the data recorders on many airplanes, these on-board
systems do not record sounds, such as conversation of
vehicle occupants.
Others, such as law enforcement, may have access to
the special equipment that can read the information
if they have access to the vehicle or SDM.
If your vehicle is equipped with OnStar, please check
the OnStar subscription service agreement or manual for
information on its operations and data collection.
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Reporting Safety Defects to the
Canadian Government
If you live in Canada, and you believe that your vehicle
has a safety defect, you should immediately notify
Transport Canada, in addition to notifying General
Motors of Canada Limited. You may write to:
Reporting Safety Defects
Reporting Safety Defects to the
United States Government
If you believe that your vehicle has a defect which could
cause a crash or could cause injury or death, you
should immediately inform the National Highway Traffic
Safety Administration (NHTSA), in addition to notifying
General Motors.
Transport Canada
330 Sparks Street
Tower C
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N5
If NHTSA receives similar complaints, it may open an
investigation, and if it finds that a safety defect exists in
a group of vehicles, it may order a recall and remedy
campaign. However, NHTSA cannot become involved in
individual problems between you, your dealer or
General Motors.
Reporting Safety Defects to General
Motors
In addition to notifying NHTSA (or Transport Canada) in
a situation like this, we certainly hope you’ll notify us.
Please call us at 1-800-222-1020, or write:
To contact NHTSA, you may either call the Auto Safety
Hotline toll-free at 1-800-424-9393 (or 366-0123 in
the Washington, D.C. area) or write to:
Chevrolet Motor Division
Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 33170
NHTSA, U.S. Department of Transportation
Washington, D.C. 20590
Detroit, MI 48232-5170
In Canada, please call us at 1-800-263-3777 (English)
or 1-800-263-7854 (French). Or, write:
You can also obtain other information about motor
vehicle safety from the hotline.
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
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Service Bulletins
Service Publications Ordering
Information
Service Bulletins give technical service information
needed to knowledgeably service General Motors cars
and trucks. Each bulletin contains instructions to
assist in the diagnosis and service of your vehicle.
Service Manuals
Service Manuals have the diagnosis and repair
information on engines, transmission, axle, suspension,
brakes, electrical, steering, body, etc.
In Canada, information pertaining to Product Service
Bulletins can be obtained by contacting your General
Motors dealer or by calling 1-800-GM-DRIVE
(1-800-463-7483).
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $120.00
Transmission, Transaxle, Transfer
Case Unit Repair Manual
This manual provides information on unit repair service
procedures, adjustments, and specifications for GM
transmissions, transaxles, and transfer cases.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $50.00
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ORDER TOLL FREE: 1-800-551-4123
Monday-Friday 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM
Eastern Time
Owner’s Information
Owner publications are written specifically for owners
and intended to provide basic operational information
about the vehicle. The owner’s manual will include
the Maintenance Schedule for all models.
For Credit Card Orders Only
(VISA-MasterCard-Discover), visit Helm, Inc. on the
World Wide Web at: www.helminc.com
In-Portfolio: Includes a Portfolio, Owner’s Manual, and
Warranty Booklet.
Or you can write to:
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $35.00
Helm, Incorporated
P. O. Box 07130
Detroit, MI 48207
Without Portfolio: Owner’s Manual only.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $25.00
Prices are subject to change without notice and without
incurring obligation. Allow ample time for delivery.
Current and Past Model Order Forms
Note to Canadian Customers: All listed prices are
quoted in U.S. funds. Canadian residents are to make
checks payable in U.S. funds.
Service Publications are available for current and
past model GM vehicles. To request an order form,
please specify year and model name of the vehicle.
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Child Restraints (cont.)
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D
Daytime Running Lamps .................................. 3-14
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Engine Compartment Fuse Block ...................... 5-96
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Maintenance Schedule (cont.)
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Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) (cont.)
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Tires (cont.)
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Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators ................ 3-26
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