Fit and Finish
Installation Guide
™
For Siding and Vinyl Carpentry
Soffit and Decorative Trim
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1 – Introduction ...........................................
5
SECTION 5 – Installing Horizontal Siding
Cutting Panels ........................................................................... 56
Overlapping Panels ................................................................... 56
Preparing Wall Surfaces............................................................ 57
STUDfinder™ Installation System.............................................. 60
Completion ................................................................................ 63
Shutter Installation..................................................................... 64
SECTION 2 – Materials and Tools
Siding Terms..............................................................................
Starter Strips..............................................................................
J-channels and F-channels ......................................................
Utility Trim .................................................................................. 10
Miscellaneous Accessories....................................................... 11
Lineal Options............................................................................ 12
Cornerposts............................................................................... 13
Equipment and Tools ................................................................ 14
Transporting and Storing Vinyl Siding ...................................... 15
6
7
9
SECTION 6 – Installing Vertical Siding
Preparing Wall Surfaces............................................................ 65
Installing Cornerposts ............................................................... 66
Installing Top and Bottom J-channel........................................ 66
Installing J-channel at Gable Ends........................................... 67
Install Window and Door Trim................................................... 68
Installing Wall Panels................................................................. 69
Installing Gable End Panels ...................................................... 70
SECTION 3 – Estimating
Siding......................................................................................... 17
Measuring.................................................................................. 19
Estimating Form ........................................................................ 20
SECTION 7 – Porch Ceilings, Soffit, Fascia
SECTION 4 – Preparation for Horizontal Siding
Preparing Wall Surfaces............................................................ 21
Nailing, Stapling and Other Fastening Methods...................... 24
Expansion and Contraction ...................................................... 26
Installing Accessories................................................................ 26
Outside Cornerposts ......................................................... 28
Extra Wide Cornerposts.................................................... 30
Inside Cornerposts ............................................................ 31
Federal Corners ................................................................. 32
Inside Federal Corners ...................................................... 33
Trimming Bay Window Corners ........................................ 34
Decorative Trim Options around
Requirements for Proper Soffit Ventilation............................... 71
Porch Ceilings............................................................................ 72
Soffit........................................................................................... 73
InvisiVent™ Soffit ........................................................................ 77
Fascia......................................................................................... 78
SECTION 8 – Installing Specific
Wolverine Products
D9 Rough-Split Shake and Mitered Cornerpost Installation.... 80
Restoration Shapes™ Half-Rounds Installation ........................ 84
Half-Rounds in Gable Ends ...................................................... 88
Half-Rounds on Non-vertical Walls .......................................... 91
Starting Half-Rounds over Horizontal Siding........................... 92
Starting Half-Rounds with Lineals over Horizontal Siding ...... 93
Application of Half-Rounds under Soffit .................................. 94
Replacing a Damaged Restoration Shapes Panel
Windows and Doors...................................................... 35
Window Flashing ............................................................... 36
Installing Window and Door Trim...................................... 37
Drip Clip™............................................................................ 38
Lineals and Decorative Trim.............................................. 38
Snap-on Lineal Application around
with the Repair Kit (Option 1)............................................ 95
Replacing a Damaged Restoration Shapes Panel (Option 2) 99
Random Hand-Split Shakes Installation ..................................100
Installing Millennium®.................................................................103
Installing TrueComfort™ .............................................................106
Windows and Doors...................................................... 39
Lineal Starter Application for Windows
and Door Surrounds...................................................... 41
Lineal Application around Windows ................................. 42
Blind Miter.......................................................................... 45
Corner Blocks............................................................................ 46
5" Square Header with Endcaps
SECTION 9 – Special Situations
Trimming Curved Openings......................................................108
Frieze Board ..............................................................................109
Decorative Sunbursts................................................................109
over 3-1/2" Lineals Sides and Bottoms....................... 47
Creating End Caps for 5" Lineals ..................................... 48
5" Angled Header with Endcaps over
3-1/2" Lineals Sides and Bottoms ............................... 49
Crown Molding Treatment Options................................... 50
Crown Molding and Cap for 3/4" Pocket J-channel ....... 51
Crown Molding with 3-1/2" Lineal Surround.................... 51
Crown Molding with Cap for 5" Header Lineal ................ 52
Installing J-channel as Gable End Trim ............................ 54
Using Lineals as Gable Trim.............................................. 55
SECTION 10 – Repair
Replacing a Damaged Siding Panel.........................................112
Replacing a Damaged Outside Corner Post ...........................112
Repairing Buckled Siding at the Joist......................................113
SECTION 11 – Miscellaneous
Cleaning Vinyl Siding.................................................................114
Siding over Asbestos ................................................................115
Historic Restoration...................................................................115
For More Information.................................................................116
3
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4
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
SECTION 1
Introduction
Plan your work, then work your plan.
That’s the key to success with any project, and it’s doubly
true when it comes to installing vinyl siding, soffit, trim
and accessories.
If you use the right materials and the right tools in the right
order, you’ll complete remodeling and new home installations
in less time, with less effort, and with far greater satisfaction.
Since you’re using Wolverine products, you’ve already taken
the first step toward success. Wolverine sidings, soffit, trim
and accessories provide premium quality, rugged durability
and outstanding appearance. Quite simply, they’re made to
look great–on the day they’re installed and for years after.
The second ingredient of success–using the proper tools,
techniques and procedures–is covered in this book. As you’ll
see by scanning the table of contents, this book guides you
through every step of the installation process, from estimating
materials to attaching mailboxes and shutters. Every major
installation project is covered: horizontal and vertical siding,
soffit and fascia, porch ceilings and decorative trim. Where
various approaches to a particular installation procedure are
possible, the book presents practical alternatives. To make the
instructions as detailed and complete as possible, dozens of
illustrations accompany the text.
As you’re reading–and while you’re working–keep in mind
the most important rule of thumb for successful vinyl siding
installation: allow for movement. All vinyl siding, soffit and
accessories used in exterior applications must be able to
move freely as they expand and contract with temperature
changes. You’ll see this point emphasized again and again
throughout this book; you’ll also learn various techniques for
measuring, fitting and nailing that will allow this unobstructed
movement. These are perhaps the most important lessons in
this booklet.
NOTE: No instruction book can anticipate all the
questions that might arise during a siding or soffit
installation. Recognizing this, we’ve focused on the tools
and techniques used to complete typical installations.
Where appropriate, we’ve also included alternative
approaches for specific installation steps. If you encounter
a unique installation problem not covered in this book, we
suggest you contact your building materials distributor or
call our Sales Support Group at 1-888-838-8100.
5
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
SECTION 2 – Materials and Tools
Siding Terms
Nail Flange
Common to most vinyl siding products (includes horizontal
and vertical sidings, soffits and most accessories).
Lock
Common to most vinyl siding products (includes horizontal
and vertical sidings, soffits and some accessories).
Panel Projection
Common to products with multiple faces (i.e. Double 4 or
Triple 3). It is the dimension required for the proper selection
of receiving channels (e.g., J-channels and corner pieces).
Butt Leg / Locking Leg
Common to most vinyl siding products (includes horizontal
and vertical sidings and soffits and some accessories).
Panel Projection
Common to most vinyl siding products that lock into one
another (e.g., siding into starters or siding panels into
siding panels).
vertical
siding
gable
dormer
rake
soffit
fascia
siding
outside
cornerpost
inside
cornerpost
6
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Starter Strips
2-1/4" Vinyl Starter Strip
Secures the first course of siding to the home. For use with
all Wolverine sidings except Restoration Shapes Half-Round
Shingles and TrueComfort.
2-1/2" Metal Shingle Starter Strip
For use with all Wolverine sidings except TrueComfort,
Restoration Shapes Half-Round Shingles, and Rough-Split
Shakes.
5" Metal Starter Strip
Designed to be used on remodeling jobs to help level the first
course and span areas that cannot be nailed. For use with all
Wolverine sidings except Restoration Shapes Half-Round
Shingles and TrueComfort.
Restoration Shapes Starter Strip
2-1/2" metal starter to be used with Restoration Shapes
Half-Round Shingles.
TrueComfort Starter Strip
Vinyl starter strip that accommodates 1-1/4" thickness of
insulated siding.
7
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Corner Starter Strip
Secures 3-1/2" and 5" lineals and a corner insert to the
outside corner.
New Construction Window and Door Starter
Butts up against protruding window and door jambs and
overhangs for installation of 3-1/2" and 5" lineals.
Remodeling Window and Door Starter
Holds 3-1/2" and 5" lineals in place around window and door
openings. Used in re-siding applications where existing
casings have not been removed.
8
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J-channels and F-channels
3/8" J-channel
1/2" J-channel
3/4" J-channel
1" J-channel
1-1/4" J-channel
Universal siding and soffit receiving channel for use around
utility openings, under eaves, etc.
3/4" Flexible J-channel
Specialized 3/4" siding receiving trim; particularly useful
around curved windows and ventilation treatments.
5/8", 3/4", and Deluxe F-channel
Receive soffit panels. Deluxe F-channel can also be used to
receive Cornice Molding.
2-1/2" Window and Door Casing
A 2-1/2" wide-face J-channel that accentuates windows and
doors. Designed to accommodate new construction window
flanges and fit snugly against window and door frames. This
accessory is also ideal for gable trim applications.
9
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Utility Trim
Undersill Trim
Helps secure trimmed siding panels under windows
and eaves.
Dual Undersill Trim
Secures trimmed siding panels under windows and eaves
regardless of the profile or where in the panel face the panel
has been trimmed.
Cornice Molding Receiver
Installed under eaves to hold the Cornice Molding in place.
Does not receive soffit panels.
Cornice Molding
Held in place by the F-channel or Cornice Molding Receiver,
this accessory hides the installation of the topmost siding
panels. With the help of a nail slot punch, topmost siding
panels can be installed with nails every time. Can also be
used under windows. Great for use with Restoration Shapes.
Vinyl Fascia
Installed with F-channel and Undersill Trim to provide a
maintenance-free fascia board.
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Miscellaneous Accessories
Crown Molding
Used in conjunction with 5" lineals to create a custom
molded window or door header. Can also be used with 3-1/2"
lineals and 3/4" pocket J-channels. Crown has a 2-1/4" top
exposed edge.
Crown Molding Cap
Caps the ends of a crown molding with minimal cutting.
NOTE: Shown already cut in half
–
one piece makes a left
and right-end cap.
Soffit Cove Trim
(Shown as if secured to trusses or soffit nailers.)
A decorative soffit receiver featuring a 9/16" receiving pocket.
(Shown as if attached to wall substrate. This profile can also be used as an
inside cornerpost. Will not work for all profiles.)
Aluminum Trim Coil
24"-wide PVC-coated aluminum.
11
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3/8" H-bar
1/2" H-bar
Joins soffit panels. Particularly useful on porch ceilings and hip
roof applications.
3-1/2" Double Channel Lineal
5" Double Channel Lineal
Exposure matches 3-1/2" window and door surround lineals.
Lineal Options
3-1/2" Lineal
For use with a New Construction Window and Door Starter
around windows and doors as a casing. The 3/4" channel
receives siding panels. Can also be used as a cornerpost.
3-1/2" Snap-on Lineal
For use with J-channel.
5" Lineal
Two lineals create a corner system when installed with a
Corner Starter and corner insert. Can also be used with a
window starter strip as a window/door casing. The 3/4"
channel receives siding panels.
Quarter Round Insert
Installed with a Corner Starter and lineals as a decorative
corner treatment.
™
Drip Clip
Use to create a rain tab on lineals.
12
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Cornerposts
Outside Cornerposts
3/4" Outside Cornerpost – Woodgrain
3/4" Outside Cornerpost – Matte
1" Outside Cornerpost – Woodgrain
For use with Restoration Shapes Random Hand-Split Shakes.
3/4" Inside Cornerpost – Matte
Used where siding meets at inside corners; provides
a finished look.
Fluted SuperCorner
Fluted corner design with foam insert.
Traditional SuperCorner
Wide decorative traditional corner treatment
with foam backing.
Beaded SuperCorner with Optional Insert
Wide decorative beaded corner treatment with a foam
backing and optional beaded insert.
TrueComfort Cornerpost
Corner treatment for use with TrueComfort Insulated Siding.
Restoration Shapes Mitered Cornerpost
Corner treatment for Rough-Split Shakes.
Bay Window Cornerpost
Adapts to odd angles of bay windows.
13
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Equipment and Tools
Sheathings
In new construction, apply sheathing first, then nail
accessories over it.
In home improvement projects, you can apply sheathing first,
as described above, or you can apply accessories first, then fit
sheathing and siding into accessory recesses.
The application method you choose determines the width of
the recess opening required. Use:
• 1/2" opening when applying accessories over sheathing
and installing siding with a panel projection of 1/2" or less.
• 3/4" opening when applying accessories over sheathing
and installing siding with a panel projection of 3/4" or less.
• 1-1/4" opening when applying accessories first and using
sheathing that’s less than 3/4" thick for sidings with a
panel projection of 1/2" or less. For sidings with a panel
projection of 5/8" or 3/4", use a sheathing that is 1/2"
thick or less.
Fasteners
Use only corrosion-resistant nails (aluminum, stainless or
galvanized roofing.) Nails should have a minimum head
diameter of 3/8". Staples should be a minimum of 16 gauge.
If screws are used, use non-corrosive, self-tapping, pan head
or washer head screws or oval head with countersunk washer
screws with at least 3/8" (9.5mm) diameter head, 1/8" (3mm)
diameter shaft, and at least 1-1/8" (29mm) long.
To determine the length of nail required, measure the thickness
of the sheathing material. Then add at least 3/4" to allow the
nail to penetrate the solid wood substrate (studs or existing
wood siding). For more secure fastening, add 1" to sheathing
thickness. The minimum nail size should be 1-1/2".
Example: If you’re applying siding over 3/4" sheathing, use
a nail at least 1-1/2" long (3/4" + 3/4").
To determine the quantity of nails required, complete the
following:
Total square feet of siding required:
___________
(if using aluminum nails)
(if using galvanized roofing nails)
x
x
.005
.01
Pounds of nails required:
= ___________
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For nailing instructions, see page 24.
Tools Required
Hammer
Square
Tin snips
Chalk line
Hacksaw
Tape measure
Level
Shears
Utility knife
Power circular saw with sharp, fine-tooth plywood blade
mounted in reverse direction.
Ladders and scaffolds
NOTE: If you will be using an extension ladder during
installation, be sure to cushion the upper side rails to
help prevent damage to installed siding.
Cutting table
Portable brake
Essential for bending aluminum trim coil to fit around fascia
boards, window sills, window and door casings, etc. Please
refer to the brake manufacturer’s instructions for metal
bending techniques.
Transporting and Storing Vinyl Siding
If you are transporting vinyl siding to a job site, make certain
to keep cartons flat and supported along their entire length.
At the job site, take the following precautions when storing
panels:
• Store on a flat surface and support the entire
length of the carton.
• Keep cartons dry.
• Store away from areas where falling objects or other
construction activity may cause damage.
• Do not store in any location where temperatures may
exceed 130° F (e.g., on black top pavement during
unusually hot weather or under dark tarps or plastic
wraps without air circulation).
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Special Tools
Nail Slot Punch
Punches elongated holes to allow nailing the cut edge
of a panel. Also used to enlarge an existing hole to allow
proper nailing.
Cut off and
discard
Snap Lock Punch
Punches tabs in the cut edge of a panel used as a finishing
course at the top of a wall or underneath a window. The tabs
lock into undersill trim. For best results, we recommend using
an SL5 punch, which is designed specifically for vinyl
applications. You may also use a redesigned and improved
version of the SL5 punch. To be certain you’re using the right
model SL5, make sure it was manufactured after November
1987.
Zip Tool
Locks and unlocks panels.
Shingle Repair Kit
Use one kit to repair one Half-Rounds panel.
cam clip
washer
pop rivet
16
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
SECTION 3 – Estimating
Siding
Use the illustrations and formulas below and enter totals on
the estimating form in this section. These formulas apply for
both horizontal and vertical installations.
NOTE: When estimating for a large project, you may want
to add a waste allowance of 10 percent to the totals for
siding, soffit and accessories.
Rectangular wall surfaces
Measure height (excluding gables). Measure width
(including doors and windows).
height
width
_____________ x _____________ = _____________
(height)
(width)
(surface area)
Repeat for remaining walls.
height
Triangular gable end surfaces
Measure height at center (add 1' to allow for waste).
Measure width and divide by half.
width
_____________ x _____________ = _____________
(height)
(1/2 width)
(surface area)
Repeat for remaining gables.
17
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D
Upper wall of gambrel house
Divide the upper wall of a gambrel house as shown in the
illustration. Then use the following formulas:
H
C
1/2 (B + C) x H =
1/2 C x D =
____________
B
____________
____________
Add these figures to get total area:
width
Repeat for remaining gambrel surfaces.
height
Dormer sides
Measure height of dormer (add 1' to allow for waste). Use the
following formula:
_____________ x _____________ = ____________________
(1/2 height)
(1/2 width)
(surface area, 1 side)
____________________ x 2 = _________________________
width
(surface area, 1 side)
(total dormer surface area)
Repeat for all dormers.
Soffit
Measure width of eave to be covered. Measure length of eave.
_____________ x _____________ = _____________
(width)
(length)
(surface area)
Repeat for remaining eaves.
Porch Ceiling
Measure length of porch area to be covered. Measure width of
porch.
length
_____________ x _____________ = _____________
(length)
(width)
(surface area)
18
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Measuring
Before ordering accessories, you also have to determine the
width of the J-channel into which you will fit the vinyl siding.
To do this, you must first determine which of two methods you
will use to apply sheathings or underlayments. This is covered
in more detail under “Sheathings”.
Starter strip: Measure along base of building.
____________
J-channel: For siding installations, measure
around doors and windows, under eaves,
at rake edges of gables where dormer
meets roofline, and anywhere else required
to provide a finished appearance.
____________
____________
____________
____________
____________
For soffit, measure along wall under eave
and along fascia board.
For porch ceilings, measure along perimeter
of the porch area.
F-channel: For soffit, measure along wall
under eve.
For porch ceilings, measure along perimeter
of the porch area.
3-1/2" and 5" lineals: For casing, measure
along perimeter of doors and windows.
For gables, measure at rake edges of gables
where dormer meets roof line.
____________
Undersill trim: Measure above and below
windows and above doors and top course
of siding below soffit.
____________
____________
____________
____________
Soffit H-bar: Measure diagonals at all
eave corners.
Outside cornerpost: Measure length of
outside corners.
Inside cornerpost: Measure length of
inside corners.
NOTE: If you plan to use J-channel instead of inside
cornerposts, remember to double this measurement
and add the total to your entry for J-channel.
Dual undersill trim: Measure along top
of wall where siding will meet eaves.
____________
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Estimating Form
Siding
Walls
Gable ends
Dormer sides
Upper gambrel walls
Total wall surface area
__________ sq feet
__________ sq feet
__________ sq feet
__________ sq feet
__________ sq feet (A)
Large areas not to be covered:
(garage doors/sliding glass doors)
__________ sq feet
x .50
Uncovered area
__________ sq feet (B)
Subtract B from A for
Total net surface area
__________ sq feet
Soffit
Porch Ceiling
Accessories
__________ sq feet
__________ sq feet
Starter strip
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
Window & door lineal starter
Four piece corner starter
Utility trim
J-channel
2-1/2" window & door casing
Flexible J-channel
F-channel/Deluxe F-channel
3-1/2" / 5" lineals
New construction window starter
Dual undersill trim
Outside cornerpost
Fluted SuperCorner
Traditional SuperCorner
Beaded SuperCorner
Receiving Channel
Outside Corners
Random Hand-Split Shakes/
TrueComfort cornerpost
Four Piece Corner System
Inside Cornerpost
J-channel
Soffit cove trim
H-bar: 1/2" or 3/8"
Corner blocks
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
__________ pairs
Inside Corners
Other
Rosettes
__________ pairs
Cornice molding receiver
Cornice molding
__________ lineal feet
__________ lineal feet
Width of accessory recess opening:
(circle one)
Pounds required (1-1/2" minimum)
1/2" 3/4" 1-1/4"
__________
Nails
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
SECTION 4 – Preparation for Horizontal Siding
Preparing Wall Surfaces
New Construction
Make sure all studs are straight and true. Correct any bowed
studs.
NOTE: Vinyl siding must be applied over a rigid sheathing
that provides a smooth, flat surface or an underlayment
(such as wood, wood composition, rigid foam or fiber
sheathing) that is no more than 1" thick. Vinyl siding
cannot be applied directly to studs.
Make sure sheathing is fastened securely to studs.
If you’re planning to use a conventional house wrap or building
felt, apply according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
In all cases, however, install the products so they are secured
firmly to the substrate so that they provide a smooth, even
surface for the final siding installation.
Before applying siding, make certain substrate is watertight.
In order to be properly protected from precipitation, the
substrate may need to be properly flashed around areas
such as windows, doors, other openings and corners so as
to shed water to the exterior. The siding alone is not meant
to be a watertight barrier.
Drop-In Foam Backer Boards
Some drop-in foam backers can restrict the movement of vinyl
siding. Therefore, Wolverine vinyl siding may not be applied
over any drop-in foam backer other than a contoured drop-in
foam backer designed specifically for each profile.
IMPORTANT: Wolverine will not accept any responsibility or
liability in the event the drop-in foam backer restricts the
movement of the vinyl. The use, fit, and performance of the
siding backer board is the responsibility of the installer and the
backer board manufacturer.
NOTE: Contoured drop-in foam backer boards are not a
substitute for rigid foam sheathing.
Home Improvement Projects
You can prepare your current siding surface to receive vinyl
siding in one of three ways:
Strip off old siding and level the wall. If felt paper covers the
wall, you have two alternatives: either strip it off completely or
staple or nail it to create a smooth surface. If there is no solid
sheathing under the old siding, you must apply it as described
in the instructions for New Construction, above.
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Apply rigid sheathing to existing siding to provide a
smooth surface. Nail securely to old siding. Nail evenly
to bridge low spots.
NOTE: Failure to establish a smooth, solid surface
constitutes misapplication under the terms of the
warranty.
Apply vertical furring to old siding to straighten noticeable
surface unevenness. (See “Tips for applying wood furring”. )
Then apply rigid sheathing, following the instructions
presented under New Construction.
NOTE: For information on installing siding over asbestos
and for historic applications, see page 115.
Tips for applying wood furring
If you are working on an older home with noticeably uneven
walls, you must correct this condition before proceeding. If not
corrected during preparation, this uneven surface will produce
a wavy appearance in siding applied over it.
For best results, space strips 12" on center. Do not exceed
16". To correct an uneven wall, use furring strips (and wood
shims if necessary) to eliminate low spots.
NOTE: You must apply rigid sheathing over furring.
When covering over masonry or bricks, it’s better to use
1"x 3" furring. For best thermal performance, install a
minimum of 1/4" foam over furring strips.
sill
undersill trim
J-channel
siding
furring strip
Furring and/or foam is also used below eaves and windowsills
to maintain correct slope angles when siding panels must be
cut to a narrower dimension to fit.
siding
undersill trim
J-channel
sill
furring strip
Similarly, when panels are cut to fit over doors or
windows, furring and/or foam is used to establish the
correct slope angle.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Applying over stucco
16"
stucco
When applying vinyl siding over stucco, you first have to be
sure you’re working on an even surface. To create that
surface, you may have to knock down high spots where
furring strips will be applied. Use caution when chipping off
these spots – you don’t want to crack or damage the
remaining stucco.
1 x 3 furring
ring-shanked
nails for
attaching furring
foam sheathing
Apply 1" x 3" furring to the stucco, using ring-shanked nails or
screws. Stucco will not hold fasteners tightly, so be sure nails
or screws are anchored securely to studs. Furring strips
should be spaced 16" on center.
nails with
washers
for foam
Applying rigid foam sheathing to furring
Install sheathing according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Do not apply siding directly to furring strips. For best thermal
performance, install a minimum of 1/4" foam over furring strips.
Applying over steel studs
Pre-planning is the key when installing vinyl siding and
accessories over steel studs. Pre-planning includes the
selection of siding style and the types of accessories. Pre-
planning proper stud placement will eliminate many of the
problems that could surface once the job has been started,
such as at corners, windows, and transitional areas.
typical of a pan head,
“wafer,” “s” truss head
or washer head screw
Follow the same guidelines as in a wood surface – except for
the type of fasteners used. Wall sheathing must be installed
over the studs. This will provide a straighter, smoother and
more rigid wall surface and help prevent studs from twisting.
Siding must be secured into metal studs if the substrate is not
a nailable surface such as exterior dry wall, gypsum board, etc.
even with washers,
center nail in slots
sheathing or
substrate
The application of vinyl siding, soffits and accessories over
steel stud framing rather than typical wood framing is straight-
forward. The main difference is the use of screws to hang
components that make up a completed siding job.
nails with
washers
Use noncorrosive, self-tapping screws with at least 3/8"
(9.5 mm) diameter head, 1/8" (3 mm) diameter shaft, and at
least 1-1/8" (29 mm) long.
Although the fastening method for steel studs differs from
wood construction, all other procedures still apply, including
fastening in the center of the nail slot and not overtightening
the fasteners.
Application for high wind areas
Using a 5/8" nylon washer with a 1/4" hole between the nail
and siding increases the wind load capabilities of the
installation. (Washer tested was 0.071" thick.)
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Nailing, Stapling and
Other Fastening Methods
If you want to ensure a quality vinyl siding installation, focus
your attention on nailing techniques. Unfortunately, a lot of
installers don’t. They feel nailing is a routine task, something
everyone knows how to do. But that’s not the case. At
Wolverine, we analyzed reported installation problems, and we
found that more than half of them can be traced back to
improper nailing. So if you want to save yourself lost time and
frustration, carefully observe the following guidelines when
installing accessories, siding panels, soffit, or porch ceilings.
center of all slots
upper edge of
topmost
nailing slot
Lock the panel and begin nailing at the center of the panel,
working toward the ends. This helps maintain a level line.
With horizontal accessories and panels, position the nails in
the center of the elongated nailing slots to allow for expansion
and contraction. Never nail through the panel surface.
With vertical accessories and panels, position the first nail at
the upper edge of the topmost nailing slot. This allows a
panel to hang from the nail. Position the remaining nails in the
center of the nailing slots. Allow for 1/3 of the total expansion
at the top and 2/3 of the total expansion at the bottom.
up to 1/16"
NOTE: Do not nail too tightly. To permit expansion and
contraction, panels should hang freely from nails. This
allows the panels to move as the temperature changes.
Drive the nails until there is between 1/8" to 1/16" of
space between the nail head and the nailing flange.
Drive the nails straight in. Do not angle nails.
too tight
too loose
correct
Per the ASTM specification for vinyl siding installation (D4756),
proper nail penetration is at least 3/4". In most cases, that
requires anchoring to studs.
Nails must be spaced a maximum of 16" apart. (In new
construction, nail to studs on 16" centers. Do not skip studs.)
Elongate factory nail slots if necessary to hit a stud. Check
with your local building code official for special
requirements.
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Other fastening techniques:
Manual nailing is the most common way of fastening vinyl
siding to a wall. That’s because it offers greater control,
making it easier to learn how to fasten panels securely, but
not tightly. You also can use power screwdrivers or pneumatic
staplers/nailers to attach vinyl siding to a wall, but you must
take the time to develop the proper skills. If you choose to
use one of these alternate techniques, follow all the recom-
mendations above for nail positioning and spacing and the
recommendations for substrate preparation on page 57 for
horizontal applications and page 65 for vertical. In addition,
be sure to observe the following guidelines:
Power screwdrivers
Use noncorrosive, self-tapping truss head screws. Screws
must have at least 5/16" diameter head and 1/8" diameter
shaft. Screws must be at least 1-1/8" long. If underlayment is
less than 3/4" thick and is not considered a nailable surface
(for example, foam or exterior grade gypsum), be sure screws
are long enough to penetrate at least 3/4" into wood studs
or substrate, 1/8" through a steel stud. Be sure screws are
centered in the nail slot. Leave 1/16"-1/8" space between the
screw head and the panel nailing flange.
center staples in slots
Pneumatic staplers/nailers
Use corrosion-resistant fasteners only. Fasteners must be
centered in the nail slot, no more than 16" on center.
NOTE: Some power staplers/nailers use an attachment
that helps position the fastener in the nail slot. If your unit
does not have that feature, you must carefully position the
fastener by sight.
Fasteners must penetrate a nailable surface at least 3/4". Be
sure to leave up to 1/16" between the fastener and the panel
nailing flange. If you’re using a power stapler, drive the staple
perpendicular to the nailing slot with one leg of the staple
centered in the slot and the other leg above the panel.
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1/4" to 3/8"
Expansion and Contraction
It’s normal for vinyl building products to expand and contract
with temperature changes. To ensure a successful siding
installation, you must allow for this movement during
application.
Use the following guidelines to determine the space required
for expansion and contraction between siding and trim:
1/4" at both ends of the panel when the temperature is above
40° F at the time of application.
3/8" at both ends of the panel when the temperature is 40° F
or below at the time of application.
1/3 total expansion
In a horizontal siding installation, a vinyl panel tends to expand
equally in both directions.
In a vertical siding installation, on the other hand, most of the
expansion is downward. So instead of allowing equal space
for expansion at both ends of a vertical panel, leave more
space at the lower end: 1/3 of the total expansion is allowed
at the top of a panel, and 2/3 of the total expansion is allowed
at the bottom.
top most nail
at the top of
the top most
full nail slot
center
For example, if the temperature is below 40° F, total expansion
equals 3/4" (3/8" + 3/8"), so you allow 1/4" at top and 1/2" at
the bottom of a vertical panel.
remaining
nails in the
slot
Installing Accessories
2/3 total expansion
Snapping a chalk line
To ensure proper installation, you must establish a straight
reference line to guide the positioning of the starter strip and
the first course of siding.
If the house is reasonably level, find the lowest point of the old
siding (or sheathing if working on new construction). Partially
drive a nail at one corner, starter height minus 1/4" above the
lowest corner. Attach chalk line. Go to other corner and pull
the chalk line taut. Stretch the chalk line from this nail to the
opposite corner of the house. Make sure the line is level, using
a line level or 4' (minimum) level. Snap chalk line and repeat
the procedure around the entire house.
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A water level, a long clear plastic tube 90% filled with water, is
useful in marking level points around the house and on
opposite sides of openings such as doors. Water will always
seek a level state, ensuring the markings will always be at the
same level.
sheathing
starter strip
metal flashing
foundation
NOTE: If after establishing a chalk line you find that your
starter strip will be positioned below an easily nailed
surface, you may have to apply a nailable base.
If you have added sheathing, you may want to bend trim coil
to act as flashing and help prevent entry of insects. Bend the
coil in a “Z” shape so the top edge of the coil is on the chalk
line and the bottom edge extends down over the foundation.
(See illustration.)
NOTE: The general guidelines for cutting and nailing vinyl
panels and for allowing for expansion and contraction also
apply to vinyl accessory items.
Installing the starter strip
6-1/2"
for wide
corners
& lineals
Position the starter strip with the top edge on the chalk line
and the ends 6-1/2" away from the outside and inside corners
(when using lineal systems or wide corners), 4" if using
standard one-piece corners. Nail to wall following previously
mentioned nailing instructions. When hollows occur in the wall
surface, shim out the starter strip to avoid a wavy appearance
in the finished siding job. Nail every 8" to 10".
4" for
standard
corners
As you add starter strip sections, be sure to leave 1/4" space
between them for expansion.
8"-10"
chalk
line
Sometimes – especially at sills above garage doors, porches
or brick surfaces where the siding has been cut lengthwise –
you may find it easier to use a combination of utility trim and
J-channel as a starter strip to secure a panel (see illustration
on page 22).
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Installing Outside Cornerposts
1/4" to 3/8"
Flash the corners of the home by bending a 10" wide piece of
aluminum trim coil 90° so you have two 5" legs. Cover the
entire length of the corner, lapping the upper pieces over the
lower pieces.
hang from top nail,
center remaining
nails
flashing
NOTE: Traditional, fluted and beaded SuperCorners or
four piece corner systems require wider strips of coil
for flashing.
Position outside cornerpost with the top of the post 1/4" from
the underside of the eave and the bottom of the cornerpost
3/4" below the starter strip. Remove the bottom 3/4" of the
nailing flange so it will not show below the siding when
installed.
nail every 8" to 10"
Make sure posts are straight and true before nailing.
Hang cornerposts by first positioning a nail at the top of
the topmost nail slot. Position all remaining nails in the center
of nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16"
between the nail head and the cornerpost to allow the
cornerpost to move during normal expansion and contraction.
This nailing pattern is to be followed on both nail flanges of
each post.
3/4"
NOTE: All SuperCorners and TrueComfort corners install
similar to standard outside cornerposts.
1/4"
If posts must be spliced for high walls, you have two options:
Option 1: Cut 1" off the nailing flanges and back from the
bottom portion of the upper post. Then lap 3/4" of the upper
post over the lower post, allowing 1/4" gap for expansion. This
method will provide an obvious joint between the two posts,
but will allow water to flow over the joint, reducing the chance
of water infiltration.
1"
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Option 2: Cut a 6" length of cornerpost and trim the nail
1 pc. outside
corner piece
flange, receiving channel, and sides until you have just a 90°
bend of vinyl. Using PVC primer and PVC cement, glue the
bent piece to the inside of the upper post and lower post. Butt
the two posts together. Nail the entire assembly as one post
with all nails in the lower post centered in the nail slots.
flashing behind finished
corner assembly
Also see additional instructions covering installation of
four-piece cornerposts (page 30).
butted splice joint
splice backer (hidden)
cornerpost
splice
backer
PVC adhesive
on backside of
cornerposts
PVC primer and
PVC cement
must be used
Capping an outside cornerpost
One method of capping an outside cornerpost is to cut a
piece of J-channel twice as long as the width of the
cornerpost face. Mark a 90° angle from the center and cut
out this area. Then cut 7/8" away from each end, except for
the nailing flange. Bend the J-channel in the center and nail it
to the outside of the corner of the house. Then insert the
cornerpost into the J-channel.
Another alternative is to trim the nail flange, receiving channel,
and sides from the bottom 1" of the cornerpost. Notch 1" at
the 90° bend, fold the bottom 1" of the cornerpost face, and
fasten these “flaps” with a pop rivet.
7/8"
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Extra Wide Corner Posts
(Four-Piece Corner System)
Extra-wide cornerposts give you a distinctive, easy-to-install
method of finishing outside corners. Each cornerpost consists
of four parts: Corner starter, two lineals and a 1/4 round
snap-in molding.
Lineals are available in two board styles: 5" smooth and
3-1/2" smooth.
The installation procedure is identical for all lineals and inserts.
To install this four-part accessory, follow these steps:
NOTE: Make sure the corners are properly flashed.
Cut cornerpost pieces. Measure the vertical span, and allow
1/4" clearance from the underside of the eave and 3/4" below
the starter strip. Cut all four pieces using a power circular saw.
Hang a starter strip. Position the starter strip, leaving 1/4"
allowance for expansion at top and 3/8" at bottom. Position
the first nail at the uppermost edge of top nail slot (shown).
Nail loosely. Working from top down, position remaining nails
every 8"-10", with nails centered in slots.
Attach side lineals. Lock the first lineal into the starter strip.
Nail to the sheathing following the procedure described above.
Repeat the process for the other lineal.
long leg
of insert
Snap in the quarter-round corner insert. Working from the
bottom up, begin by inserting the longer leg of the insert into
the nail flange side of the starter strip first, then snap in the
shorter leg. Lightly press along the length of the molding as
you snap it into place.
NOTE: For a more secure installation, use a pop rivet to
attach the molding insert to a side lineal. The rivet should
be positioned at the top of the cornerpost.
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Inside Cornerposts
There are three options for trimming inside corners: Standard
3/4" inside cornerpost, single J-channel, and two J-channels.
To flash the inside corner, bend a 12"-wide piece of aluminum
coil stock 90° so you have two 6" legs. Insert the flashing into
the corner. If you use more than one piece of flashing, overlap
the upper pieces of the flashing over the lower pieces.
1/4" to 3/8"
hang from
top nail, center
remaining nails
To install inside cornerpost, hang the post from the top of the
eave. The bottom should extend 3/4" below the starter strip.
Remove the bottom 3/4" of the nailing flange so it does not
show below the siding. Set the post straight and true. Position
the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other nails should
be in the center of the nail slots.
flashing
If you have to splice the inside cornerpost, cut 1" off all but
the outer face of the lower post. Lap 3/4" of the upper post
over the lower post, leaving 1/4" for expansion.
8" to 10"
If you are using two pieces of J-channel instead of inside
cornerpost, flash the corner with a 6" x 6" “L” corner
fabricated from aluminum coil stock. Hang the J-channel from
the top of the eave. The bottom should extend 3/4" below the
starter strip. Remove the bottom 3/4" of the nailing flange so
that it will not show below the siding. Use the same
3/4"
positioning and nailing guidelines as inside cornerpost.
To create a narrower corner, you can also use a single length
of J-channel and flashing. First, install the siding on one wall,
then place the J-channel lightly against the siding and nail it to
the substrate on the adjacent wall. Follow the same
inside
cornerpost
splice
positioning and nailing guidelines as inside cornerposts.
NOTE: When using a single J-channel, the corner must
have corner flashing
corner flashing
(scrap aluminum
coil, for example)
solid nailable
substrate
standard 3/4"
inside corner post
single J-channel
two J-channels
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“L” shaped
flashing
Federal Corners
To create a federal-style corner, flash the corner with
aluminum trim coil or other flashing materials. Hang a new
construction starter strip. Position the top nail in the top of the
nailing slot. All other nails should be centered in the slots
spaced 8" to 10" apart.
Position and secure the 3-1/2" lineal.
Position and secure an aluminum starter strip.
Position and secure the 5" lineal.
NOTE: Aluminum starter can be used for both lineals. If
the aluminum starter used for the 5" lineal is not long
enough, fashion a starter using a metal brake and coil
stock to a length that allows for proper nailing into the
substrate.
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“L” shaped
flashing
Inside Federal Corners
Flash the corner with aluminum trim coil or other flashing
materials.
Position and secure the 5" lineals (or a 3-1/2" lineal) by butting
the lineal up to the inside corner. Using a 5" lineal will create a
symmetric 3-1/2" exposure in the corner. If two 3-1/2" lineals
are used, one exposure will be approximately 2-1/4" and one
will be 3-1/2".
NOTE: Attaching the second lineal will keep the first lineal
in place. You will not need a starter strip. Always position
the top nail in the top of the nailing slot. All other nails
should be centered in the slots spaced 8" to 10" apart.
Position and secure the starter strip.
Position and secure the remaining lineal.
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Trimming Bay Window Corners
There are several ways to trim the odd angles of bay windows.
Here are two of them:
for angles
less than 45°
1. Install bay window cornerpost.
2. Install J-channel with a quarter-round insert.
Before you begin, make sure the corner is properly flashed.
Install Bay Window Cornerpost
• Cut bay window cornerpost to the proper length.
push down until nail
flanges seat flat
• For angles less than 45°, push down on the face of the
corner until the nail flanges seat flat against the wall
surfaces.
• Hang the cornerpost by nailing loosely into the topmost
nail slot.
for angles
45° and
larger
• Make sure the cornerpost is straight and true.
nail loosely
every 8"-10"
• Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a
maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16"
between the nail head and the cornerpost to allow the
cornerpost to move during normal expansion and
contraction.
• Fit the siding into the cornerpost. Leave 1/4" for
expansion.
Install J-channel with Quarter-Round Insert
• Cut two pieces of J-channel and one piece of
quarter-round insert to length.
• Pop rivet the J-channels to each side of the
quarter-round insert in at least three places.
pop rivets
• Nail the assembly to the corner, remembering to
hang the assembly from the topmost full nail slot.
• Position all remaining nails in the center of nail slots a
maximum of every 8" to 10". Leave 1/8" to 1/16"
between the nail head and the J-channel for normal
expansion and contraction.
remove
half of the
longer leg
• Fit the siding into the J-channels. Leave 1/4" for
expansion.
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Decorative Trim Options
around Windows and Doors
J-channel
System requires standard J-channel.
• 1/2" J-channel
• 3/4" J-channel
• 1" J-channel
• 1-1/4" J-channel
3-1/2" Snap-On Lineal
System requires 1" face J-channel
3-1/2" Lineal System
System requires 3-1/2" lineals and starter strips.
5" x 3-1/2" Lineal System
System requires 5" lineals, 3-1/2" lineals, and starter strips.
3-1/2" Lineal System with Corner Block
System requires 3-1/2" lineals, starter strips, and lineal
corner block.
3-1/2" Lineal System with Corner Block
and Rosette
System requires 3-1/2" lineals, starter strips, lineal corner
block, and rosette.
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Window Flashing
The width of all flashings is determined by the type of
accessory surrounding the window and where the final
complete course of siding stops below the window (in the
case of the flashing under the window). The flashing should
extend past the nail flanges of the accessory. The width of the
flashing under the window must allow for the diversion of
water.
*see NOTE below
Apply the vertical flashings by overlapping the previously
secured bottom flashing. As noted above, the length and
width of the flashings will be determined by the type of
accessories used.
Secure top flashing.
NOTE: The flashing is long enough to direct water
over the nail flange of the last course of complete
siding panels.
For even greater protection,
make a slit in the building
wrap and insert the top
flashing behind it. Tape the
seam as shown.
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Installing Window and Door Trim
rain tab
Install J-channel along the top and sides of door casings and
around windows.
NOTE: When installing J-channel around replacement
windows that do not have nail flanges, add flashing for
greater protection against water infiltration. For an
example of completed flashing, see the previous page.
3/4"
There are two methods of joining J-channels at corners. The
easiest method is to square cut the corners. For a more
finished appearance, you can miter the corners. To prevent
gaps, do not butt ends. Instead, lap them as shown.
To Square Cut Corners
Install J-channels at sides of windows. Notch as shown.
NOTE: For best results, use aviation snips when cutting
J-channel.
Cut top and bottom J-channels so the ends extend beyond
the casing to the width of side J-channels.
3/4"
Place top J-channel along the casing shoulder and nail it to
the wall.
Make two cuts in the bottom of the upper channel and bend it
down to overlap side J-channel. Repeat for the other side.
This forms a water drain and allows J-channel to receive
siding panel.
3/4"
(3/4" or
dimension of
J-channel
face)
Nail the bottom J-channel in place. Cut the channel as
previously described. Fold rain tabs into receiving pockets for
a tighter miter joint.
3/4"
To Miter Cut Corners
For best results, make sure you cut all J-channels to the
proper length, leaving the proper allowance for the width of
the face of the J-channel.
Square cut the bottom J-channel so that its ends extend
beyond the window casing to the width of the face of
the side J-channels. Notch the ends for clearance.
Position and nail the J-channel.
Measure side J-channels, adding the width of both the top
and bottom J-channels. Miter cut (45° angle) the lower ends of
both side J-channels. Notch the channel, position and nail.
3/4"
Mark the top J-channel so its ends extend beyond the casing
to the width of the side J-channels. Miter cut (45° angle) the
ends. Cut and bend water tabs. Position and nail.
3/4"
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Drip Clip
The Drip-Clip is an easy and effective way to create rain tabs
for lineals. To install Drip-Clips, miter lineals with a power miter
box/chop saw, etc. Apply Drip-Clip to the top cut lineal. Slide
the vertical lineal behind the vertical edge of the clip to
complete the application.
top surface
has burrs
to grip PVC
pocket of lineal
cutaway of
water flow
adjoining
accessory
window or
door frame
vertical leg has
slight inward bends
to control water flow
lineal
window and door starter
45°
angle
Lineals and Decorative Trim
Lineals are a great way to accessorize a window. This page
illustrates how the lineal pieces fit around a window. The next
few pages describe the step-by-step process for installing the
lineals.
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3-1/2" Snap-on Lineal Application around
Windows and Doors
This application works only on 1"-faced J-channel.
The installation of J-channel for snap-on lineals is the same
procedure as installing lineal starter strip. Measure the
openings and cut the J-channel 1/2" less than your
measurement. Install the J-channel around the opening,
centering the J-channel so that each end of the J-channel is
1/4" from the opening. Nail the J-channel every 8" to 10".
Lineal application around windows
Measure the top of the casing and add 7" (3-1/2" extra for
each side). After the piece is cut to length, flip it over and cut
3/8" off the locking leg as shown.
Snap over the J-channel as shown.
Repeat for the bottom of the casing.
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Measure the side casing and add 7". Use a triangle to create a
45˚ angle or measure 3-1/2" in from the edge of the part. Use
snips or a miter saw to remove this portion.
Flip the part over and remove the locking leg as shown. This
should be done to both ends.
Snap the lineal over the J-channel as shown. Use the same
measurements for both sides.
Corner blocks
Install J-channel around the perimeter of the window opening.
J-channel should be the same length as the casing.
Install corner blocks on all 4 corners as shown. Leave blocks
loose until the lineals are installed.
Cut the lineals the same length as the window casing.
Start with one end and angle a lineal into the corner block and
snap it over the J-channel.
Continue installing lineals around the window.
Crown molding
Crown molding will fit over the top of the lineal system.
Install J-channel and lineals around window casing.
Measure the top lineal and add 2-1/2". This will be the crown
molding length.
Insert crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace
the shape. Trim off the marked line.
The crown molding requires a tab 2" long – cut from the
pocket receiver as shown.
Cut the crown molding cap in half and apply the halves with a
bead of caulk.
Insert the crown molding into the top of the lineal as shown.
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measure window and subtract 1/2"
(leaving 1/4" per side as shown)
Lineal Starter Application for
Windows and Door Surrounds
vertical pieces: place the uppermost nail
in top of nail slot (still loose nailed)
When securing window and corner starter strips, outside
corner pieces (OSCP), inside corner pieces (ISCP), one piece
corners, lineals – basically, any vertically mounted siding
product – always place the top nail (or staple) first, and in a
manner that allows the part to hang from it without dropping.
This promotes movement downward only, a must for a good
corner joint. This is the only time you should not center a
nail (or staple). It is also preferred to use the nail slots closest
to the locking area (when using product with double nail slots).
1/4"
1/4"
Remember to place the nails for the horizontal pieces in the
center of the nailing slots as shown. Space nails 8"-10" apart.
window
or door
frame
Using a 1/2" J-channel as a starter for lineals.
NOTE: The lineals must be slid on from either end of the
J-channel (the lineal will not snap over the J-channel as
with a New Construction Starter Strip), or by pulling the
J-channel away from the window slightly and zipping the
lineal into place.
remaining vertical nails and all horizontal
nails: place in center of slots
If the opening has no framework, such as a brick molding,
use the metal starter (illustrated below left), or the Remodeling
Window and Door Starter (illustrated below) in place of the
New Construction Window and Door Starter Strip shown
above. The lineal’s locking leg will fit behind the aluminum
starter and into the receiving pocket of the Remodeling
Window and Door Starter.
1/2" J-channel
wall (substrate)
door opening
wall (substrate)
door opening
inverted
metal
starter
remodeling
window and
door starter
position of nail
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3-1/2"
Lineal Application around Windows
Measure the top of the opening and add 7" (3-1/2" extra for
each side) if the side lineals are also 3-1/2". Add 10" total if
using 5" lineals.
window or
door frame
Use a triangle to create a 45° angle or measure 3-1/2" in from
the locking leg.
remove
45°
3-1/2"
NOTE: The nail flange is always the longest part of a
surrounding miter.
Use snips to remove the part as shown.
cut for rain tab
back-side view
of mitered lineal
Cut a 3/4" rain tab (as shown)
rain
tab
Completed top lineal snapped into the previously attached
starter strip.
NOTE: The bottom miter of side lineals has the same cut
as both ends of a top lineal; however, a rain tab is not
required.
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1/2"
Measure the height of the window or door. Add 7" (for
the 3-1/2" header and bottom lineal) and cut.
3-1/2"
NOTE: Add additional material if using 5" lineals.
window or
door frame
3/4"
Trim a minimum of 3/4" from the top end of the side lineals.
view of above notches
from back side of lineal
rain tab shown bent into
receiving pocket of side lineal
Snap the side lineals into place, making sure the rain tabs of
the top lineal are bent down into the receiving pocket of the
side lineals.
window
frame
If the lineal surrounds a window frame, the bottom corner
requires a 45° miter as done previously for the top lineal.
NOTE: Rain tabs are not required here.
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Measure the bottom of the opening and add 7" (3-1/2" extra
for each side) if the side lineals are also 3-1/2". Add 10" total if
using 5" lineals.
window
frame
3-1/2"
3/4"
Trim 3/4" tabs from the lineal as shown.
3/4"
view of
notching
from back
side (same on
both ends)
Snap the lineal in place and secure by nailing (or stapling) it
through center of the nail slots.
finished
assembly
with side
lineal
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Blind Miter
An alternative to a standard blind miter offers support to the
corner without adding material. The measurements shown
for the fold are for a 5" lineal. The same method can be used
with 3-1/2" lineals, but the fold would be changed from 1-1/2"
to 1-3/8".
3/4"
Remove this corner
(dimension dependent
on 1/2" minimum shown
below)
Measure
and
notch 1-1/2"
Dotted line
represents
the position
of a 45˚
mitered
5" lineal
Measure at
least 1-1/2"
and notch
with snips
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1/8" per side
make 1" cuts
Corner Blocks
Corner Block
Install starter as previously described. Measure and cut the
side lineals to the exact size of the window or door opening.
Cut the top and bottom lineals 1/4" longer than the window.
Using vinyl snips, make two 1" long cuts in the pocket areas
on both sides of each lineal. These cuts allow the lineals to
connect with the corner block and help provide proper
drainage.
NOTE: It may be helpful to hold off securing the lineals
until the corner block is in place.
Position the corner block by inserting the top lineal into the
corner block’s receiving area – making sure the lineal’s pocket
is inside that of the corner block.
Position the vertical (side) lineal into the corner block by
inserting the pocket of the corner cover into the pocket of the
lineal. This will ensure proper drainage.
Corner Block with Rosette
Locate the small dimple on the back side of the block’s face
or measure 2-5/16" as shown and mark.
Drill or punch a 3/32" - 1/8" diameter hole through the face of
the block – the hole must not be larger than 1/8".
2-5/16"
NOTE: Check the back side of the block for this location –
marked by “+”.
2-5/16"
rosette center
(back side)
Apply the rosette clip from the backside. If desired, a small
amount of caulk can be applied over the hole prior to applying
the rosette.
rosette clip
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5" Square Header with Endcaps over
3-1/2" Lineals Sides and Bottoms
Assemble 5" header and cap. The side 3-1/2" lineals should
extend approximately 1" inside the header assembly.
3/4"
3/4" rain tab
end cap
(from 5"
lineal)
5" lineal
header
2" rain tab
removing this
section allows
side 3-1/2" lineal
to slide behind
the 5"
3-1/2"
1-1/8"
Finish the corner by sliding the 3-1/2" side lineals behind the
header, making sure the 2" rain tab on the end cap extends
into the receiving area of the side lineals.
1-1/2" - 1-3/4"
slit in pocket
area of the
3-1/2" side
lineals
NOTE: If using crown molding, see page 50.
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remove
3/4"
Creating End Caps for 5" Lineals
remove
To create the header, first cut a 7" piece of 5" lineal. Measure
and trim as shown.
3/4"
The resulting piece fits into the end of the 5" lineal.
The ends of the 5" lineal also need trimming to receive the end
caps. Create a 3/4" rain tab in the pocket area and trim off a
3/4" tab from the bottom.
2"
remove
3/4"
rain tab
3/4"
NOTE: To make end caps for 3-1/2" lineals, simply start
with a 5-1/2" piece and remove the 3/4" and 2" areas as
shown for the 5" end caps.
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5" Angled Header with End Caps over
3-1/2" Lineals Sides and Bottoms
Assemble the 5" header and cap. The side 3-1/2" lineals
should extend approximately 1" inside the header assembly.
3/4"
3/4" rain tab
3/4" end cap
(from 5" lineal)
5"
lineal
header
2" rain tab
removing this
section allows
side 3-1/2" lineal
to slide behind
the 5"
3-1/2"
1-1/8"
Finish the corner by sliding the 3-1/2" side lineals behind the
header, making sure the 2" rain tab on the end cap extends
into the receiving area of the side lineals.
1-1/2" - 1-3/4"
slit in pocket
area of the 3-1/2"
side lineals
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Crown Molding Treatment Options
Option 1 (page 51)
• Crown molding
• (2) crown molding end caps
• 3/4" pocket J-channel header and surround
Other options are possible with the crown molding: For
example, use 3-1/2" lineals vertically and at the window base
along with a J-channel and crown molding header. The only
requirement for using the crown molding is having receiving
channels 3/4" wide.
Option 2 (page 51)
• Crown molding
• (2) crown molding end caps
• 3-1/2" lineal header
• 3-1/2" lineal surrounds
NOTE: Corner blocks/rosettes can be used to join lineals
at the corner.
Option 3 (page 52)
• Crown molding
• (2) crown molding end caps
• 5" lineal header
• (2) 5" header end caps
• 3-1/2" lineal surrounds
Instructions for each option are on pages 51-53.
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cut crown molding
cap in half
Crown Molding and Cap for
3/4" Pocket J-channel
To use crown molding with 3/4" pocket J-channels,
measure the length of the completed J-channel surround
and add 2-1/2" (the crown molding overlaps the J-channels
by 1-1/4" per side).
Insert crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace
the tip shape. Trim as shown.
2" rain tab
window
flashing
Insert 1/2 of the crown molding cap into each end of the
crown molding lineal. Secure the crown molding with a bead
of caulk.
Miter or square cut the J-channel (mitered corner shown).
Insert the 3/4" wide rain tab into the receiving channel of the
side J-channel.
window
or door
frame
insert cap
(see above for instructions
on assembling the cap)
Crown Molding with
3-1/2" Lineal Surround
In addition to J-channel, crown moldings can also be used
with lineals. The next two pages demonstrate how crown
molding can be used with various lineal configurations. Above
all, remember that before applying accessories and siding,
make certain the substrate is watertight. In order to be
properly protected from precipitation, the substrate may need
to be properly flashed to shed water to the exterior. The siding
alone is not meant to be a watertight barrier.
2" rain tab
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5" lineal header
Crown Molding with Cap for
5" Header Lineal
Crown molding with 5" header and
3-1/2" surrounds.
1/16" - 1/8"
per side
Determine the header length by measuring from the
outside of both side lineals and adding 1/16"-1/8" per
side for overlap.
To cut the crown molding, add 2-1/2" to the previously
determined header length (1-1/4" added per side).
window or
door frame
3-1/2" lineal
To create the header end cap, cut a 9-1/4" piece of
5" lineal and trim as shown.
2-1/4"
2"
3/4"
3/4"
3/4"
rain
tab
Notch both ends of the header as shown.
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the crown molding
requires a rain tab 2"
long – cut from the
pocket receiver
Insert a crown molding cap into the crown molding and trace
the shape. Trim as shown.
apply the crown
molding to the header
with a bead of caulk
Insert the header cap.
finished
assembly
Cut the crown molding cap in half. Apply each half to the end
of the crown molding and secure it with a bead of caulk.
rain tab to
divert water
from crown
molding to
side lineals
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Installing J-channel as Gable End Trim
Install J-channel to receive siding at gable ends, as shown
in illustration. To create a clean, professional look, follow
these steps:
To create an angle template, hold a piece of J-channel against
the slope while transferring the angle to another
J-channel with a pencil.
Next, transfer angle of template to the end of a length of
J-channel. Be sure to extend line onto nail flange. Cut away
channel face and nail flange.
90°
Turn pattern over and transfer opposite angle to second
J-channel, being sure to extend line onto nail flange. Cut away
nail flange and return lip, but do not cut J-channel face.
90°
Insert the full-faced J-channel into the mitered J-channel. If
the nail flange or return lips butt and prevent a tight fit, trim off
additional material from the second J-channel.
NOTE: For a more decorative appearance, you also can
use 3-1/2" or 5" lineals to trim gable ends (see next page
for details).
1"
To splice the J-channel, follow these steps:
Cut out a 1" section of the nailing flange and face return as
shown.
Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the
eave. Here again, leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and
cornerposts. Overlap J-channels 3/4" to allow for expansion.
When positioning the upper J-channel, be sure to allow for
expansion of the siding panel. In most cases, position the
J-channel at a point equal to the length of the panel plus 5/8"
(1/4" for upper expansion and 3/8" for lower expansion).
3/4"
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Using Lineals as Gable Trim
You can give gable end trim a more dramatic appearance by
using 3-1/2" or 5" lineals instead of J-channel.
To install the lineals:
Make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. To create an angle
template, lock a piece of lineal into the previous course of
siding or other gable starter. Hold a second piece of lineal or
starter against the slope and transfer the angle with a pencil.
Transfer the angle of the template to the end of a length of
lineal. Cut away lineal face and nail flange.
90°
Turn pattern over and transfer opposite angle to second lineal.
Trim nail flange and receiving channel from opposite lineal to
this line. Do not cut lineal face.
90°
Insert the full-faced lineal into the mitered lineal. If the nail
flange or return lips butt and prevent a tight fit, trim off
additional material from the second lineal.
starter strip
Installing trim at roof line
To prevent water infiltration along the intersection of roof and
wall, install flashing before installing J-channel. At points
where vinyl siding and accessories will meet at a roof line –
such as areas where a gable dormer or a second story side
wall intersect with the roof – it’s best to position the J-channel
so it’s 3/4" to 1" away from the roof line. Placing the J-channel
directly on the roof line would subject it to a build-up of heat,
which could result in excessive expansion.
NOTE: If you use more than one length of J-channel to
span a wall surface, be sure to overlap J-channels 3/4".
3/4" x 1"
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SECTION 5 – Installing Horizontal Siding
Cutting Panels
factory
notches
To cut panels to size, follow these procedures:
Cross cuts
For a precise cut, use a power circular saw equipped with a
sharp, fine-tooth plywood blade. For best results, reverse
blade direction.
Cut one or two panels at a time, carefully advancing the saw
through the vinyl. A rule of thumb: The lower the temperature,
the slower the feed rate.
Panels can also be cut with snips. Use a square to mark cut
line. Start cut at top lock and continue to bottom of panel.
NOTE: Whenever you cross cut a panel to be used in an
overlap area, you also have to duplicate the factory notch
at the cut end.
1"
Rip cuts
Use a utility knife to score panel along cut line. Bend panel
back and forth along score line until it snaps apart cleanly.
Use a combination of tin snips and utility knife to cut panels to
fit around windows and doors.
Overlapping Panels
When lapping horizontal panels, overlap the ends 1".
Carolina
Beaded
factory
notches
NOTE: Carolina Beaded, Restoration Shapes 7" Shakes,
and 10" Hand-Split Shakes are factory-notched. Overlap
panels using factory notched ends only.
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Preparing Wall Surfaces
The key to successful vinyl siding application is proper
preparation of the nailing surface. It is essential that you work
over a smooth nailing surface. The more level and even the
wall surface, the better the finished installation will look.
The steps involved in preparation differ for new homes and
old, so choose the instructions (page 21) that pertain to your
project.
Installing the First Course
It’s important to work with care and planning as you install
siding panels. This is especially true when you’re installing the
first course of siding. (See pages 24-25 for fastening
methods.)
For best results, follow these guidelines:
The key to creating a visually attractive installation is to lap
away from areas where people normally walk or gather. For
example, on the front wall, work from the corners to the
entrance door (so overlaps face away from door). On side
walls, work from the rear corners toward the front. This
approach minimizes the effect of lapping and produces the
best appearance. Keep lap appearance in mind throughout
installation.
room for
expansion
lock panel to
starter strip
NOTE: Lap appearance is also improved when you avoid
using panels less than 3' long.
Slide the first panel into the cornerpost recess. Leave room for
expansion (see page 26).
Hook the bottom lock of the panel into the interlock bead of
the starter strip by applying upward pressure.
Before nailing, double check to make certain you’ve locked
the panel along its entire length. A slight upward pressure may
be required to snap the interlock securely. Don’t force the lock
too tightly, however. You may distort your laps. Also, make
certain the panel can slide freely. Nail properly. Start at the
center of the panel and work out.
Install the remaining starter course panels, overlapping panel
ends 1". The last nail should be at least 4" from the end of the
panel to allow for a neat lap.
lock not fully engaged lock fully engaged
Remember to leave room for expansion when fitting panels
into remaining inside and outside cornerposts.
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Installing remaining courses
To ensure best appearance, position the laps to avoid
unsightly joint patterns. The illustration at left shows a well-
planned staggering of panel joints. Follow these guidelines:
Separate joints by at least two courses.
Avoid joints above and below windows.
Leave at least 3' separating joints on successive courses.
Use short cutoff lengths for fitting at narrow openings between
windows.
Follow the planned pattern when applying the next courses of
siding.
Fitting under windows
You’ll probably have to cut panels to fit under windows.
To make this task easier, plan panel positioning as shown at
left so a single panel extends beyond both sides of window
opening. Follow these steps to measure and cut panels:
Hold panel in place and mark the width of window opening.
Add 1/4"-3/8" to both ends to allow for expansion. The
resulting marks show location of vertical cuts. Extend marks
onto panel using a square.
1/4"
1/4"
Create a template for horizontal cut using small piece of scrap
siding. Lock this piece into the lower panel and mark 1/4"
below sill height. This provides clearance for undersill trim.
Repeat procedure on opposite side of window. (You can’t
assume windows will be perfectly level.)
Transfer marks from template to panel. Connect marks using
straightedge.
Cut panel, using tin snips to make vertical cuts and a utility
knife to make horizontal cut.
Install panel
If necessary to maintain slope angle, install furring under sill as
described on page 22.
NOTE: You can eliminate this step by using dual undersill
trim. This trim has two receiving channels. Use the inner
channel if you’ve cut the siding panel near the locking
edge. Use the outer channel if the cut has been made
near the butt edge.
window
J-channel
utility trim
dual
undersill
trim
Use a snap lock punch to raise tab faces on the outside of the
panel. Punch out tab every 6".
horizontal
siding
Push horizontal edge of cut into utility trim. Slide vertical
edges of cut into J-channels at window sides. Make certain
the installed panel locks into the panel below.
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Fitting over windows and doors
The procedure for cutting panels for installation over windows
and doors is similar to that explained earlier.
If necessary to maintain slope angle, install furring above
window or door as explained on page 22.
Drop panel into position, making certain it fits into undersill
trim and J-channel at top and J-channels at sides. Interlock
with the siding panels below.
installing trimmed panels
with dual undersill trim
Fitting at narrow openings between windows
To simplify installation in areas such as that shown in the
illustration, install J-channels on both sides of opening. Bow
the panel toward you and slip into channel.
If the area is very narrow, leave one J-channel unnailed except
at lowest point (as shown). Bend this channel out slightly to
insert panel. When panel is in place and nailed, nail J-channel
immediately above panel and repeat procedure. Be sure to
leave adequate tolerances for expansion and contraction.
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STUDfinder Installation System
The STUDfinder™ Installation System combines precisely
engineered nail slot locations with graphics to create a siding
panel that is designed to help ensure quick, accurate and
secure installation.
The nail slots are positioned 16" and 24" on center to allow for
alignment with studs, with STUDfinder graphics centered
directly under each nail slot.
Locate the first stud and fasten in the center of the nail slot.
Ensure that nail/staple penetration is at least 3/4" to comply
with ASTM D4756 (specification for vinyl siding installation).
Notice which STUDfinder letter appears below the slot.
16"
Go to the next repeat of the letter to find the next stud. For
example, if your first stud is at “T,” so will the succeeding
studs in 16" o.c. applications (every 10th slot).
When you apply the next panel, adjust the overlap, as
necessary, to line up with studs and repeat the steps above.
24"
24" o.c. applications will use a similar pattern of letters, with
2 letters that repeat every-other stud (every 15th slot). For
example, if the first stud is located at “S,” then the next will be
at “I,” then “S,” then “I,” etc.
NOTE: The overlap must be a minimum of 1"
-
1-1/2". The
overlapping panels may not use the same letter as your
initial panel.
1/4" - 3/8"
Fitting at light blocks
When cutting panels to fit at a light block, be sure to allow for
expansion.
light block
mounting bracket
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Installing trim at roof line
To prevent water infiltration along the intersection of roof and
wall, install flashing before installing J-channel. At points
where vinyl siding and accessories will meet at a roof line –
such as areas where a gable dormer or a second-story side
wall intersect with the roof – it’s best to position the J-channel
so it’s 3/4" to 1" away from the roof line. Placing the J-channel
directly on the roof line would subject it to a buildup of heat,
which could result in excessive expansion.
NOTE: If you use more than one length of J-channel to
span a wall surface, be sure to overlap J-channels 3/4".
Do not butt J-channel pieces end-to-end.
3/4"-1"
Fitting at gable ends
Make a pattern duplicating gable slope. Use this pattern to
guide cutting of panels to fit gable ends.
To make pattern:
Lock short piece of siding into panel gable starter course as
shown in illustration.
Hold second piece of siding against J-channel at slope. Run
pencil along edge of this piece, transferring slope angle to first
piece of siding.
Cut along line using power saw or tin snips. Use resulting
pattern to mark siding panels before cutting.
NOTE: Double-check angle on pattern at every course.
If necessary, cut new pattern.
To install cut panels:
Slip angled end of panel into J-channel along gable edge.
Leave space for expansion.
colored
aluminum
nail finish
Interlock with siding panel below.
If necessary to securely fasten the last panel at gable peak,
face nail as shown in illustration. This is the only place you will
face nail. Use 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" aluminum nail with painted
head.
NOTE: Do not cover louvers in gables.
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Fitting under soffit
When you reach the last course of siding, you will probably
have to rip cut panels lengthwise to fit under soffit.
NOTE: If necessary to ensure proper panel slope angle,
make certain to furr out this area.
To cut and install this last course:
Install J-channel and undersill trim or dual undersill.
Measure from soffit to base of upper lock on previous course
of panels. Subtract 1/4". Mark this dimension on the panel to
be cut, taking measurement from bottom edge of panel. For a
more precise cut, repeat this procedure at several other points
along the span to be covered by the panel.
distance
minus 1/4"
Using a square or straightedge, draw a pencil line connecting
these points. Then score along line with utility knife. Bend
panel back and forth until it snaps.
Use snap lock punch to create tabs on outside face of panel,
1/4" below cut edge. Space tabs every 6".
To install, lock bottom of cut panel into panel below. Push top
edge into J-channel or undersill trim. Tabs will catch in trim
and hold panel firmly in place.
NOTE: Since you will not nail this last course, it is
important that the tabs fit properly in the trim to provide
support while allowing movement for expansion.
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Completion
Attaching objects to siding
All external products (downspouts, shutters, and lights,
for example) are attached to walls after you’ve applied the
vinyl siding.
NOTE: All external fixtures must be attached to a solid
backing (such as 3/4" exterior grade plywood) to provide
a secure mounting surface. Never attach a fixture directly
to vinyl siding.
When installing external products, you must allow for
expansion and contraction of siding.
You can allow for this movement in two ways:
The most convenient way to attach light fixtures is with light
blocks. Because they contain receiving channels to hold
siding panels, light blocks provide a simple way to allow for
expansion.
When attaching other fixtures, drill holes in the siding three
times the diameter of screws, bolts, or nails being used to
fasten objects. This provides adequate clearance so siding
can move freely underneath attached objects. When
attaching objects, do not fasten tightly. It is also
recommended that you apply caulk around the screws.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Shutter Installation
(A)The ideal application (shown at the top) has a joint between
the two shutters where the shutters are secured to the home.
In this way, the siding panel is not “hard nailed” between the
two shutters and the siding is allowed free movement.
Enlarge the hole in the siding for securing the shutter – the hole
clearance should be approximately 1/8". If possible, stagger
the screws securing the shutter so that they do not line up on
the same panel. It is also a good idea to apply caulk around
the screws.
A
B
(B) When there is no joint between shutters where the shutters
are secured to the home (as shown on the bottom), the
shutter’s fasteners do not allow the siding panel to move. The
siding panel then fails to perform because it cannot expand or
contract with the temperature changes.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
SECTION 6 – Installing Vertical Siding
upper edge of topmost
nailing slot
Preparing Wall Surfaces
For the most part, the wall preparation instructions given for
horizontal siding also apply to vertical siding. The key
requirement, of course, is that you start with a smooth, level
and rigid substrate (plywood, wood composite, rigid foam or
fiber sheathing).
NOTE: Never install vinyl siding over open furring strips or
studs. Always check with your local building code official.
With vertical siding, however, you may have to complete an
extra step to provide solid nailing points along the vertical
edge of the siding panel. The need for this added step
depends on the type of substrate used and the nature of the
construction project.
ring-shanked nails
and washers for
attaching foam 1 x 3 furring
With new construction or remodeling using plywood or wood
composite, there are no additional steps. You can nail into
plywood and wood composite substrates at any point as long
as you do not exceed 16" on center.
12"-16"
In new construction, using rigid foam or fiber sheathing, you
must install solid wood nailer strips horizontally to studs
before applying sheathing. Use 1 x 3 wood furring positioned
12" - 16" on center. In high wind regions, including Texas,
space the furring strips 12" on center. Check your local
building codes.
When remodeling over existing wood siding, you must apply
rigid foam or fiber sheathing, shimming if necessary to create
a level surface.
always position
1/2" foam sheathing
topmost nail in
topmost full nail
slot with vertical
applications
When remodeling over brick, block, stucco or irregular wall
surfaces, apply furring strips horizontally to create a level
surface, then apply rigid foam or fiber sheathing. See “Tips for
applying wood furring” on page 22 and “Applying over
stucco” on page 23. When reviewing illustrations for those
sections, remember that furring strips must be applied
horizontally with vertical siding. See page 24 for nailing
instructions.
12"-16"
NOTE: When using Beaded T2" panel in a vertical
application, nailing MUST be 8" to 12" o.c.
Marking a base line
The procedure is virtually the same as that described earlier.
However, instead of snapping a chalk line 2-1/4" above the
low point, snap it 1" above the low point.
NOTE: Washers can be used for increased performance in
high wind areas. See page 23 for horizontal illustration.
even with washers,
center nail in slots
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illustration
1a
illustration
1b
Installing Cornerposts
Install outside and inside cornerposts using dimensions and
procedures described earlier.
NOTE: Unlike the preparation for horizontal siding, do not
install a starter strip for vertical siding.
Installing Top and Bottom J-channel
Apply J-channel along the top and bottom of the walls to
receive the siding panels.
Install the bottom J-channel (illustration 1a). Overlap
J-channels 3/4". To do this, cut out a 1" section of the
nailing flange and face return (see illustration 2).
illustration 2
1"
NOTE: If you prefer to use drip flashing with the
J-channel along the bottom of the wall, fabricate the
lengths you’ll need from aluminum coil stock of a color
to match the siding (see illustration 1b).
3/4"
F-receiver
Install inverted J-channel along the top of the wall, under the
eave. Here again, leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and
cornerposts. Overlap J-channels 3/4" to allow for expansion.
When positioning the upper J-channel, be sure to allow for
expansion of the siding panel. In most cases, position the
J-channel at a point equal to the length of the panel plus 5/8"
(1/4" for upper expansion and 3/8" for lower expansion).
soffit
soffit
J-channel
J-channel
NOTE: If you’re going to install soffit, you may want to
install the receiving channels for the soffit at this point.
vertical
siding
vertical
siding
The illustrations show alternative approaches for installing
siding and soffit receiving channels.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
If a wall requires more than one course of siding, you can
proceed in one of three ways:
vertical
siding
vertical
siding
Use two lengths of J-channel, back-to-back, at the joint
between the two courses (illlustration a).
Use a combination of one length of J-channel and one length
of drip cap (illustration b).
Use a double channel lineal and flashing where required.
J-channel
flashing
J-channel
drip cap
If using J-channel
Snap a chalk line parallel to the bottom J-channel, at a height
equal to the length of the lower panel plus an allowance for
expansion. For example, if the lower panel is 144" long and
you’re adding 1/2" for expansion (because the temperature is
above 40° F), you strike a line 144-1/2" from the bottom
J-channel. Nail inverted J-channels along this line to receive
panels from below. Leave a 1/4" gap between J-channel and
cornerposts. Overlap J-channels 3/4".
J-channel
vertical
siding
vertical
siding
Prepare for the second course by applying head flashing
above the just-installed J-channel. Then nail J-channel over
the flashing to receive the upper panel.
a
b
NOTE: Some installers prefer to use formed aluminum
flashing in place of vinyl drip cap as the receiving channel
for the lower panel. This is also an acceptable approach.
Installing J-channel at Gable Ends
Follow the procedure described earlier under the section
“Preparation for Horizontal Siding” beginning on page 21.
aluminum flashing
(required if lineals
are overlapped) or
provide additional
means of flashing
If using double channel lineal: Measure the length of the
lower panel, then add an allowance for expansion. Snap a
chalk line parallel to the bottom J-channel, at a height equal to
your measurement. Position the lineal so the interior peak of
the lower channel runs along the chalk line. Nail. Leave a 1/4"
gap between lineal and cornerposts.
double
channel
lineal
Where required, overlap lineals 1". Whenever lineals are
overlapped, you must insert flashing into the upper channel,
or provide additional means of flashing. Nail in place.
chalk
line
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Installing Window and Door Trim
Follow the instructions described earlier under the section
“Preparation for Horizontal Siding” beginning on page 21.
Plan the panel layout
1/3
2a
Correctly installed vertical siding should have a balanced
appearance. This means that if you were to draw a vertical line
down the center point of a wall, you’d have an equal number
of panels to the right and left. If you had to trim panels to fit,
the end-most panels would be of identical width.
To create this pleasing appearance, divide the space to be
covered by a partial panel over both ends of a wall. For
example, if a wall required 25 full panels plus 10", you would
rip cut two 5" lengths of panel to create the end pieces.
Important!
In a vertical siding installation, most of the expansion is
downward. So instead of allowing equal space for expansion
at both ends of a vertical panel, leave more space at the lower
end: allow for 1/3 of the total expansion at the top of a panel
and 2/3 of the total expansion is at the bottom.
2b
For example, if the total expansion equals 3/4" (3/8" + 3/8"),
allow 1/4" at the top and 1/2" at the bottom.
NOTE: Always position top most nail at the top of the top
most full nail slot (2a). Center remaining nails in the slots
(2b).
2/3
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Installing Wall Panels
Cut the first of the partial panels (if partial panels are
necessary). Mark the cut line by measuring from the nail hem
edge. Rip cut the panel. Do not cut off the nail hem. Use a
snap lock punch to create locking tabs along the cut edge.
Space the tabs 6" apart.
Before installing this partial panel into the outside cornerpost,
provide additional support at cut edge (to compensate for the
locking channel that was trimmed off).
To do this, insert furring into the channel of the outside
cornerpost and nail to substrate. After furring, insert a length
of undersill trim into cornerpost and nail to furring. Finally, slide
the cut edge of the panel into the undersill trim, making sure
to engage the snap locks (see illustration).
cornerpost
Using a level, make certain this panel is plumb. Nail every 12".
Follow the same nailing procedures described for horizontal
siding.
Install the next panel. Lock the panel into the preceding panel,
then nail every 12". Continue with succeeding panels.
undersill
When necessary, cut panels to fit around doors and windows.
When marking the cut, remember to allow for expansion.
trim
snap
locks
The method used to install panels around doors and windows
is determined by the need to cut a panel and the position of
that cut.
If a cut was made next to a remaining v-groove, insert the
panel into the J-channel.
If a cut removes the support provided by a v-groove, use the
procedure described above to provide support for the trimmed
edge.
panel
To finish the first course of a wall, cut the final panel to size
and install in outside cornerpost, using method described
above.
NOTE: The cutting and supporting procedure described
above is also used when fitting panels into inside
cornerposts.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Installing Gable End Panels
When installing vertical siding on a gable end wall, you should
try to create a balanced appearance.
There are two ways to do this:
You can start from the center of the wall and work toward
the sides. Begin by finding the center point of the wall
(beneath the peak) and draw a plumb line. Nail two lengths
of J-channel, back to back, along this line. Be sure to flash
underneath the J-channel to help prevent water damage
due to water between the J-channels. Cut the upper end of
the first panel to the proper height and slope. Remember to
allow for expansion.
plumb
line
NOTE: To guide the cutting of the upper end of the panel,
make a pattern duplicating the gable slope. (See page 61.)
Insert the panel into the J-channel along the gable slope.
Use a level to make certain the panel is plumb. Nail every
12". Continue cutting and installing panels. Then repeat the
procedure on the remaining half of the gable end.
If you want to work from one end of the wall to the other,
begin by centering a panel under the center of the peak.
Mark the position of the panel on the wall, then measure
the distance from the left (or right) cornerpost to mark for
the left (or right) edge of the center panel.
If you need a partial panel, cut it and install at the cornerpost,
following the procedure described on page 69. Cut the upper
end of the panels to proper height and slope, following the
procedure described above. Remember to allow for
expansion.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
SECTION 7 – Porch Ceilings, Soffit, Fascia
Requirements for Proper Soffit Ventilation
Proper attic ventilation is important for any home. The 2003
International Building Code (IBC) Section 1203 Ventilation
furnishes a basic guide for determining proper ventilation for any
home. The information provided here may under certain
circumstances not result in enough ventilation. Therefore, the
calculation provided should be used as a guide only.
The IBC guideline requires that any attic or space between top
floor, ceiling and roof must be ventilated. It requires one square
foot of ventilation area for every 150 square feet of attic space.
If a vapor retarder of less than one perm has been installed on
the warm side of the ceiling or if at least 50% of the required
ventilating area has already been provided by gable and vents
or ridge vents, you need add only one-half of the ventilation
area that would otherwise be required. The requirement would
then be one square foot of ventilation area for every 300 sq. ft.
of attic space.
How to Determine Soffit Ventilation
1. Determine local code requirement for total attic
ventilation.
1:150 requires 1 sq. ft. of ventilation for every 150 sq. ft. of
attic space.
1:300 requires 1 sq. ft. of ventilation for every 300 sq. ft. of
attic space, if a vapor barrier having a transmission rate not
exceeding 1 perm is installed on the warm side of the
ceiling.
40'-0"
2'-0"
2. Determine total area of attic (sq. ft.) to be ventilated.
40 ft. x 30 ft. = 1,200 sq. ft.
30'-0"
3. Total free area of ventilation required for attic.
1,200 sq. ft. / 150 = 8.0 sq. ft.
4. Convert square feet into square inches (sq. in.).
8.0 sq. ft. x 144 = 1,152 sq. in.
2'-0"
5. Location of vents.
50% at ridge, roof vent or gable vent = 1,152 x .50 = 576 sq. in.
50% at soffit / eave = 1,152 x .50 = 576 sq. in.
ridge
eave
6. Total soffit ventilation area required.
Area of soffit available for ventilation:
80 lineal ft. x 2 ft soffit depth = 160 sq. ft.
Ventilation area required per sq. ft. of soffit = 576 sq. in.
/160 sq. ft. = 3.6 sq. in /sq. ft.
7. Soffit product selection.
Compare soffit ventilation area required to manufacturer’s
soffit product literature.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Porch Ceilings
The procedures used to install a porch ceiling are in many
ways similar to those used to install soffit. These procedures
vary slightly, depending on whether you’re working on new
construction or a remodeling project.
New Construction Projects
Begin by installing receiving channels on all four sides of the
porch. If you are using F-channel, nail to existing walls. If you
are using J-channels, you will have to install a nailing base.
If you plan to use light blocks to attach external light fixtures,
install them to adequate backing.
Plan the layout of the ceiling panels to achieve an even
balance or to align with adjacent work. If the ceiling panels will
run parallel to the ceiling joists, you will have to install
additional 1 x 3 wood furring nailing strips. Install these nailing
strips perpendicular to the ceiling joists, placing a strip every
12" to 16".
Invert J-channels and nail them to underside of wood strips
along the perimeter of the ceiling area.
NOTE: If you’re using Beaded T2" panel as soffit, nail both
the channel and the soffit every 8"
support.
-
12" to create added
Install the first panel into the channels at one end of the porch.
Be sure to leave room for expansion. Nail every 12" to 16",
positioning nails in the centers of slots. Do not nail tightly.
Install remaining panels. When cutting the last panel of the
first course, be sure to allow room for expansion.
For areas where more than one panel length is needed, use a
double channel lineal.
If necessary, rip cut the final panel and use a snap lock punch
to create tabs every 8" to 10" along the cut edge. Attach utility
trim and insert panel into the receiving channel.
NOTE: For best results, ensure you have adequate
ventilation.
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Remodeling Projects
Check to be sure the existing ceiling can serve as a solid
nailing base. If the existing ceiling is solid, remove all existing
moldings and fixtures from ceiling and begin by nailing
inverted J-channels along the perimeter of the ceiling area.
If you plan to use light blocks to attach external light fixtures,
install them to adequate backing.
Plan the layout of the ceiling panels to achieve an even
balance or to align with adjacent work.
Use the existing ceiling as a nailing base for the panels. Install
the first panel into the channels at one end of the porch. Be
sure to leave room for expansion. Nail every 12" to 16",
positioning nails in the centers of slots. Do not nail tightly.
Install remaining panels. When cutting the last panel of the
first course, be sure to allow room for expansion.
For areas where more than one panel length is needed, use a
double channel lineal.
If necessary, rip cut the final panel and use a snap lock punch
to create tabs every 8" to 10" along the cut edge. Attach utility
trim and insert panel into the receiving channel.
If the existing ceiling is not solid, install nailing strips to provide
a secure nailing base, then install J-channels. You will have to
install additional nailing strips if your ceiling panels are to run
parallel to the ceiling joists.
If the ceiling panels will run parallel to the ceiling joists, you will
have to install additional 1 x 3 wood furring nailing strips.
Install these nailing strips perpendicular to the ceiling joists,
placing a strip every 12" to 16".
Invert J-channels and nail them to underside of wood strips
along the perimeter of the ceiling area.
Install panels as explained above.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
FIGURE 1
Soffit
fascia cap or
coil stock
open truss
You can use solid vinyl panels or perforated vinyl panels for
soffit installations. Perforated panels provide ventilation, which
helps to reduce heat buildup in the summer and ice dams in
the winter. In buildings with roof ridge vents, you should install
ventilated soffit. Check local building codes to determine the
amount of ventilation required. In high windload areas, you
should also check local building codes to determine if the
application methods that are required differ from those
described below.
F-channel
soffit
16"-24"*
FIGURE 2
The procedure used to install soffit depends on the
construction of the eaves:
open truss
F-channel
• Open eaves—eaves with exposed rafters or trusses—are
typical of new construction. You will also have to use open
eave installation procedures if you have to remove damaged
soffit at a remodeling project.
J-channel
• Enclosed eaves—eaves with soffit in place—
are typical of remodeling projects.
soffit
16"-24"*
Installation over Open Eaves
FIGURE 3
open
rafter
The first step in installing soffit is to install the proper receiving
channels. You have several options for receiving channels. You
can use accessories such as F-channel or J-channel, or you
can make channels using coil stock. The best approach is to
select a method that works most effectively with the
construction techniques used to create the eave. Examine
figures 1-4 and find the one that most closely resembles the
construction methods used on your particular project.
fascia cap or
coil stock
F-channel
soffit
If no F-channel is available, J-channel can be modified to
create F-channel. Simply cut slots in the nail flange area where
it would be nailed to the wall. After cutting the nail flange,
bend the flange back and nail to the wall. When installing
Beaded T2" panels, use 3/8" H-bar or 3/8" J-channel.
16"-24"*
FIGURE 4
add nailing
strips
Installing Receiving Channels
Install the receiving channels following the details shown in
figures 1-4. Nail the channels every 16", positioning the nail in
the center of the slot. Do not nail tightly. If you’re using
Beaded T2" panel as soffit, nail both the channel and the soffit
every 8"-12" to create added support.
add
framing
If the eave span is greater than 16", you will have to install
nailing strips (as shown in figure 4) and install the receiving
channels on the nailing strips.
soffit
J-channel
16"-24"*
If the soffit will turn a corner, cut and install the channel so there
is 1/4" for expansion at each of the adjoining walls.
* To determine the maximum permissible span, consult
individual product specifications and local building codes.
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Installing Soffit
fascia
Measure from the wall to the fascia board. Then subtract 1/2"
to allow for expansion. Mark this dimension on a soffit panel
and cross cut the panel using a power circular saw with a
reversed fine-tooth blade. Cut one or two panels at a time,
carefully advancing the saw through the vinyl.
soffit
panels
Insert the panel into the channel on the wall, then into the
channel at the fascia board. You may have to flex the panel
slightly to insert it into the second channel. Make certain the
panel is perpendicular to the wall, then nail. Depending on the
installation method you’re using, you’ll nail either to a nailing
strip or to the fascia board.
bent
aluminum
coil stock
If you’re nailing to the fascia board, use small-headed nails.
Drive the nail through the nail flange and “V” groove. This is
one of the rare instances when face nailing is permissible.
Once a soffit panel is face-nailed, it will expand only in one
direction—in this case, toward the receiving channel. Be sure
to leave space for the full expansion allowance in the receiving
channel.
nail into slot
nail into “v”
If you’re using a nailing strip (as in figure 4), do not nail
tightly—allow movement for expansion.
Continue installing the panels by locking and nailing the soffit
in place. Make certain soffit panels are fully locked along their
entire length.
Turning a Corner
To turn a corner, measure from the channel at the wall corner
to the channel at the corner of the fascia board. Subtract 1/4"
for expansion. If necessary, install nailing strips to provide
backing for the lineal. Cut and install soffit double channel
lineal or H-bar. Miter the corner soffit panels and install as
described above.
soffit
H-bar
fascia
Completing the Installation
miter soffit
panels
To complete the installation, apply utility trim and fasten
aluminum fascia cap or formed aluminum coil stock with
painted trim nails. If you must face nail fascia, drill holes for
the trim nails to allow for expansion and to reduce denting of
the aluminum.
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Installation over Enclosed Eaves
FIGURE 5
fascia cap or
coil stock
If the existing soffit is rotted or damaged, it’s best to remove
it completely before installing vinyl soffit. Then use the
instructions for open eaves.
nailing
strip
enclosed
eave
If you’re installing perforated soffit panels and the existing
soffit doesn’t have openings for ventilation, cut an adequate
number of openings. Then complete the installation as
described for open eaves.
soffit
J-channel
The procedure used to install soffit over an enclosed eave is
almost identical to that used for an open eave. The major
difference is the installation of the J-channel. Determine the
method you’ll use to install soffit at the fascia board (see
figures 5 and 6). When installing J-channel at either the wall
or the fascia board, nail the J-channel every 12"-16".
FIGURE 6
enclosed
eave
soffit
Turning a Corner
If the soffit is to turn a corner, cut and install J-channel so
there is 1/4" for expansion at each of the adjoining walls and
adjoining fascia boards. Miter the corner soffit panels and
install as described above.
J-channel
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
InvisiVent Soffit
Installation over open eaves
In most situations, InvisiVent™ Super Ventilated Soffit should
be installed like our standard soffit products. However, when
InvisiVent is installed over open eaves, follow these installation
techniques.
Install receiving channels
There are two ways to install receiving channels for soffit.
The best approach is to select a method that works most
effectively with the construction techniques used to create the
eave. Examine the illustrations, and find the one that most
closely resembles the construction methods on your particular
project.
fascia cap or
coil stock
open
rafter
Use either 3/4" J-channel or 3/4" F-channel, or you can make
receiving channels using coil stock.
F-channel
Install the receiving channels following the details shown in the
illustrations.
soffit
Nail the channels every 12" to 16", positioning the nail in the
center of the slot. Do not nail tightly.
NOTE: If you are concerned about excessive insect
infiltration, cover the opening with corrosion-resistant
mesh or other screening before installing the soffit.
Install soffit
Nail the soffit every 16" or 24", depending upon local building
codes and stud spacing. InvisiVent will span up to 24" without
additional nailing strips.
Installation over existing soffit
add framing
When installing InvisiVent Soffit over an existing solid wood
soffit, you must cut openings into the existing soffit to provide
adequate airflow through the InvisiVent Soffit. The goal is to
have at least 9 square inches of net free air per lineal foot of
soffit. Removing a center portion of the existing soffit will
provide the desired airflow.
soffit
Using a saw, cut along the length of the existing soffit. Leave
2" to 3" from both the wall and the fascia so that you will have
enough wood surface to securely fasten the InvisiVent.
J-channel
Remove the center portion of the existing soffit.
Install the InvisiVent Soffit as described above.
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Fascia
undersill
trim
The wooden fascia board that encloses the front of an eave
also needs protection from the weather. To provide this
protection, you can install vinyl or aluminum fascia panels.
vinyl fascia
cap
fascia
board
There are two procedures for installing vinyl fascia panels–
one for installations that include soffit, one for installations
without soffit.
Installations without soffit
Nail undersill trim in place along the top of the fascia board.
Before installing the panel, create tabs along the top edge
using a snap lock punch.
nail in slot
opening
Hook the bottom of the fascia panel under the bottom of the
fascia board. Push the top edge into the undersill trim, as
shown, or behind drip edge.
Secure the panel to the bottom of the fascia board with white
trim nails. Fasten at nail slot openings only (see illustration).
Do not face nail fascia panel.
When overlapping fascia panels, first cut a notch in the
underlying panel. The notch should be 1/8" deep by
1-1/2" long. Slip the notched panel into the adjacent
panel (see illustration).
To turn a corner, you must first fabricate a corner piece.
Cut a length of fascia panel so it extends 6" beyond the
corner. Mark a vertical line to indicate the position of the
corner. Then cut a 90 degree V-notch centered on the vertical
line. Score along the vertical line and fold. Finally, create tabs
along upper edge with snap lock punch. The tabs must be
raised on the outside face of the panel (shown on the next
page).
1/8"
Fit the panel on the corner, making sure to overlap the
preceding panel.
1-1/2"
3/4"
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For installations that include soffit
6"
Nail undersill trim in place along the top of the fascia board.
Then nail F-channel along the bottom outside surface of the
fascia board (shown).
snap lock
punch
The fascia panel will have to be rip cut to fit over the fascia
board and F-channel. To determine the width of the panel,
measure from slot in undersill trim to bottom of F-channel.
Deduct 1/4" and cut (shown).
Use a snap lock punch to create tabs 1/8" below cut edge.
Punch tabs every 6", with tab raised on outside face of panel.
Install the panel by hooking the bottom of the fascia panel
under the F-channel and pushing the top into the undersill trim
(shown).
Continue to install the fascia as described on page 78.
Aluminum fascia
undersill
trim
The techniques used to install aluminum fascia panels are
similar to those used with vinyl– with three exceptions. There
is no special undersill trim to use with aluminum fascia.
Aluminum fascia is made without nail slots, so you have to
pay attention to proper nailing techniques. And corners are
handled differently.
fascia
board
Install drip edge, gutter or all-purpose trim along the top of the
fascia board to receive the top edge of the fascia panel.
Slip the fascia panel in place, then nail the underside of the
panel. Nail every 24", keeping nails lined up with soffit
V-grooves.
F-channel
For best appearance, first drill a slightly oversized hole. Nail
with painted trim nails, using a light touch.
At outside corners, bend a 1" flange at a 90 degree angle so
it turns the corner. Then cut the overlapping fascia at a 45
degree angle. Position panels and nail.
NOTE: If you need a piece of nonstandard size fascia,
use a portable brake to form it from aluminum trim sheet.
Install and nail using the same techniques used with
standard fascia panels.
measure
minus 1/4"
1/8"
6"
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
SECTION 8 – Installing Specific Wolverine Products
D9 Rough-Split Shakes Installation
Important
This product is not designed for roof application. It is designed
solely for installation on vertical surfaces.
Panels must be installed with nails over a solid substrate with
nail holding strength such as plywood, oriented strand board,
or existing wood siding (minimum 7/16" thick). This product
cannot be installed with staples.
NOTE: Each panel must be nailed through the round hole
in the center of the nail hem to control the direction of
normal expansion and contraction. If you are installing a
partial panel and the center nail hole has been cut off, drill
a nail hole in the center of the nail hem of the cut panel
and nail through it.
Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures
As with any plastic siding, Restoration Shapes expands and
contracts with changes in temperature. For this reason, it is
important that you space the panels according to the panel
temperature at the time of installation. Failure to provide the
proper spacing according to these temperature ranges may
result in gaps that are too large or too small, thereby creating
the potential for side lock tabs disengaging, panel distortion,
or buckling. Spacing of panels previously installed at a
different temperature does not require adjustment.
Each panel has a PanelThermometer™ that displays panel
temperature and indicator lines that serve as guides for proper
spacing between the panels. The PanelThermometer is
located on the upper right-hand corner of the panel; the
indicator lines are on the upper left-hand corner.
panel temperature indicator lines
Note that the panel temperature may change throughout the
day. Space the panels according to the panel temperature at
the time of installation.
The cells on the PanelThermometer will change color to
indicate the temperature of the panel.
NOTE: If two temperature cells on the PanelThermometer
show a color change, use the brighter color as the
indicator.
PanelThermometer
Reading
Temperature
Indicator Lines
0
30
65
100
130
160
Set to 0 line
Set to 30 line
Set to 65 line
Set to 100 line
Set to 130 line
Butt panels tight
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If the brighter cell is between the numbered temperature cells,
position the panel between the corresponding temperature
indicator lines. Example: If the PanelThermometer reads 65,
align the second panel to the 65 temperature indicator line on
the first panel. If the cell between the 65 and 100 is brighter,
position the panel between the 65 and 100 temperature
indicator lines.
2"
First course
Strike a level line around the house and install Restoration
Shapes Starter. If you plan to use Restoration Shapes Mitered
Cornerpost, make sure the starter strip is installed to the edge
of the corner. An alternative method of starting Rough-Split
Shakes is to use J-channel in place of starter strip to receive
the bottom edge of the panel.
“A”
Create a straight edge on the right side of the panel by cutting
the top two shingles so they are flush with the bottom shingle.
Cut 2" off the top course of the panel at indicator “A,”
which is located above the nail slots.
Starting on the right side of the wall, hook the bottom locking
leg of the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into
the cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space
between the panel and the corner for expansion. If you are
planning to install the Mitered Cornerpost, space the panel
3" from the corner.
Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round
center hole in the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Continue
nailing the D9 panel with 5 nails: one in the right-end nail slot
and one at each of the QuickReference™ Nail Mark Indicators.
Leave 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail heads and the panel to
allow freedom of movement during normal expansion and
contraction.
1/4"
QuickReference
Nail Mark Indicators
Install the next panel by positioning it below the starter strip
and next to the first panel. Push in and up to lock the panel
into the starter strip and the side tabs of the first panel. Space
the second panel according to the panel temperature at the
corresponding temperature indicator lines.
Nail the panel into position starting with the round center hole
and then placing the next nail in the right-end nail slot (which
overlaps the previous panel’s left-end slot) so that the nail
goes through both panels’ nail slots simultaneously. Continue
nailing the rest of the panel.
1/4"
Continue to install the remaining panels of first course as
described earlier.
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Second course
Cut 29" off of the right side of the D9 panel at indicator
“B,” which is located above the nail slots, cutting straight
through the panel. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail
hem and nail the siding through this hole to control the
direction of expansion and contraction. Another option is to
nail each end of a nail slot located at the center of the panel.
drill 3/16" dia. hole at
midpoint of remaining panel
29"
Set the spacing using the PanelThermometer and temperature
indicator lines and install the panel as described earlier.
“B”
Continue to stagger panel courses, alternating each time to
ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.
Installing under a window or opening
window
Install Restoration Shapes undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit
under the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail
hem. Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside
of the panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the
panel into the previous course, and center nail the siding
through the 3/16" hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls
the direction of the panel’s expansion and contraction.) Lock
the panel into place.
restoration shapes
undersill trim
restoration shapes
family panel
Installing over a window or opening
Cut the panel to fit over the window by measuring from the
locking tab of the previous row to the bottom of the receiving
pocket. Add 1/8" to this measurement. Turn the panel over
and, using this measurement, measure from the bottom of the
return leg.
Cut the panel to this dimension. Install the cut panel by
positioning the panel over the window and into the receiving
pocket. Lock the cut panel into the previous course by
pushing in and up. The cut edge should be 1/4" below the top
of the receiving pocket.
back side of panel to be cut
bottom of
receiving channel
measure from
the locking tab
to the bottom
of the receiving
channel and
add 1/8"
bottom of
locking tab
bottom of
return leg
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Finishing the top course
cornice receiver
To finish the top course of siding, attach cornice receiver to
the top of the wall under the eave or soffit. Trim the top panel
to within 1/4" of the cornice receiver. Using a nail slot punch,
punch nail slots 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 16" apart. Nail
off the top course and snap the cornice molding into the
cornice receiver.
1/4"
1/4"
cornice
molding
An alternate method is to use J-channel and furring strips, as
described for installing under a window.
Installing Mitered Cornerpost
Install the siding on both sides of the wall before you install
the cornerpost. Space the siding 3" from the edge of the
corner. The corners are designed to fit over the Rough-Split
Shakes panels that are used to start a new course. Lock the
first corner over the siding, making sure it also locks into the
starter strip. The top of the corner must be inline with the top
of the panel. Nail the corner through the top two nail slots.
restoration shapes panel
The right-side corner gap has cut marks at 1/8" increments;
they allow you to fit the corner to the different panel heights
you may encounter as you finish a course. Trim the corner gap
as needed to fit the panel.
trim as
needed
to fit corner
cornice receiver
Installing Cornice Cap
Install the top section of Mitered Cornerpost. Leave 1/4"
between the top corner piece and the cornice receiver.
NOTE: Depending upon the area of the D9 panel you
finish with, you may have to install furring behind the
cornice receiver to accommodate the thickness of the
D9 panel.
Snap the cornice molding into the cornice receiver. The
cornice molding should be 1/4" from the edge of the
wall.
1/4" from
edge
1/4" from
edge
Hook the top of the cornice cap over the end of the cornice
moldings and snap the bottom into place.
Alternately, you can slide the cornice cap over one of the
cornice moldings until the other cornice molding can be
inserted.
cornice cap
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Restoration Shapes Half-Rounds
Installation
30° F
65° F
100° F
panel
temperature
indicator
marks
Important
This product is not designed for roof application. It is designed
solely for installation on vertical surfaces.
Panels must be installed with nails over a solid substrate with
nail holding strength such as plywood, oriented strand board,
or existing wood siding (minimum 7⁄16" thick). This product
cannot be installed with staples.
use these marks on installed panels for quick
alignment of second course – use temperature
indicators for final panel adjustments
NOTE: Each panel must be nailed through the round hole
in the center of the nail hem to control the direction of
normal expansion and contraction. If you are installing a
partial panel and the center nail hole has been cut off, drill
a nail hole in the center of the nail hem of the cut panel
and nail through it.
Panel Spacing at Different Temperatures
As with any plastic siding, Restoration Shapes siding expands
and contracts with changes in temperature. For this reason, it
is important that you space the panels according to the panel
temperature at the time of installation. Failure to provide the
proper spacing according to these temperature ranges may
result in gaps that are too large or too small, thereby creating
the potential for side lock tabs disengaging, panel distortion,
or buckling. Spacing of panels previously installed at a
different temperature does not require adjustment.
Each panel has indicator lines that serve as guides for proper
spacing between the panels. The indicator lines are on the
upper left-hand corner. Before you install Half-Rounds, make
sure the panels are acclimated to the ambient
temperature. As the ambient temperature changes during the
day, it may be necessary to adjust the panel spacing to reflect
the change in the panel temperature.
Space the panels according to the panel temperature at the
time of installation.
Panel Temperature Temperature Indicator Lines
30° to 40°
41° to 55°
56° to 75°
76° to 90°
91° to 100°
Set to 30 line
Set halfway between 30 and 65 lines
Set to 65 line
Set halfway between 65 and 100 lines
Set to 100 line
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illustration
1a
illustration
1b
First course
Strike a level line around the house and install Restoration
Shapes Starter (see illustration 1a). An alternative method of
starting Half-Rounds is to use J-channel in place of starter
strip, to receive the bottom edge of the panel (see illustration
1b). To use this method, the rounded portion of the panel must
be removed below the locking leg to create a continuous
straight edge.
1/4"
NOTE: When using a J-channel as a starter, leave 1/4"
between the siding panel and pocket.
Remove 2-5/8" from the left side of the upper panel course,
leaving a 90° left side edge.
2-5/8"
Starting on the left side of the wall, hook the bottom edge of
the panel into the starter strip and slide the panel into the
cornerpost or receiving channel. Leave 1/4" space between
the panel and the inside wall of the cornerpost for expansion.
Fasten the panel to the wall by first nailing through the round
center hole of the nailing hem at the top of the panel. Then
fasten the rest of the panel by nailing through the centers of
the remaining nail slots a maximum of every 8" to 16" on
center. Provide 1/8" to 1/16" between the nail head and the
panel to allow freedom of movement during normal expansion
and contraction. Failure to provide this space between nail
head and panel will cause the panel to buckle. Do not put a
nail into the far right slot until overlapping panel is positioned
for installation.
Install next panel by using a dual motion of hooking into the
starter strip and sliding over the previous panel. This will
ensure a proper lap.
Position overlapping panel so that there is 1/8" to 1/4"
between the panels, depending on the panel temperature at
time of installation. The spacing may appear larger or smaller
than the spaces between the shingles on the panel. This is
normal and necessary in order to allow for expansion and
contraction.
Nail in center of far left slot of overlapping panel.
always secure first
using center pin hole
Continue to install remaining panels of first course as
described above.
1/8"-1/4"
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drill 3/16" diameter hole at midpoint
of remaining panel
Second course
Remove 13-1/4" of the left side measured from the upper
panel, cutting straight through the lower panel course.
(Note the small mark on the face of the panel.) Drill a
3/16" hole in the center of the nail hem and nail the siding
through this hole to control the direction of expansion
and contraction.
13-1/4"
NOTE: The 13-1/4" spacing provides the farthest
separation of overlapping courses.
For easier application of complete panels, 1/4" vertical lines
have been added to the top edge of the nail flange for quick
initial alignment. Simply align the right edge of the upper panel
with one of the vertical alignment marks on the lower course.
However, always use the temperature indicator marks on the
right side of the upper panels for final alignment.
Restoration Shapes Half-Rounds may also be installed by
sliding the right panel up while ensuring the side lock tabs
engage with the flange of the left panel. This method is useful
when installing panels into cornerposts and J-channel around
windows and doors.
Continue to stagger panel courses, alternating each time to
ensure a random shingle pattern up the wall.
side locking tabs
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Installing under a window or opening
window
Install Restoration Shapes undersill trim. Cut the panel to fit
under the window. Drill a 3/16" hole in the center of the nail
hem. Using a snap lock punch, raise tab faces on the outside
of the panel 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 6" apart. Lock the
panel into the previous course, and center nail the siding
through the 3/16" hole drilled earlier. (Center nailing controls
the direction of the panel’s expansion and contraction.) Lock
the panel into place.
restoration shapes
undersill trim
restoration shapes
family panel
Installing over a window or opening
To install siding over a window, measure from the lock tab of
the course below the window top to the top of the window.
Add 3/4". Cut the panel to this dimension. This will allow the
panel to be lowered far enough to engage the locking tabs of
the lower panel. After it is positioned into the locked position,
the cut edge will still be 1/4" below the top of the
J-channel.
cornice receiver
cornice
molding
1/4"
1/4"
Finishing the top course
To finish the top course of siding, attach cornice receiver to
the top of the wall under the eave or soffit. Trim the top panel
to within 1/4" of the cornice receiver. Using a nail slot punch,
punch nail slots 1/4" from the trimmed edge, 16" apart. Nail
off the top course, and snap the cornice molding into the
cornice receiver.
restoration shapes panel
An alternate method is to use J-channel and furring strips.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Half-Rounds in Gable Ends
NOTE: The following instructions focus on a gable
installation. They also are geared towards an enclosed
gable, started with a J-channel. Half-Rounds can also be
started with starter strip. This is an example only!
gable
height
Installing receiving channels
Frame the border area with 3/4" J-channel. Nail in place
loosely. Miter joints accordingly.
NOTE: You also can use 3-1/2" or 5" lineals to frame gable
ends and gable base. For instructions on cutting lineals
for peaks, see “Gable Trim” on page 55.
Cut enough J-channel to span the base of the gable, then
secure it in place.
NOTE: The instructions below show how to create a gable
installation with a complete, centered Half-Round at the
peak.
Making the starter course
Gable installations properly terminate with a single round at
the peak. To create this effect, you usually have to adjust the
height of the starter course.
To determine the height of the starter course, calculate the
number of rows required to complete the gable.
5-1/2"
Use the following formula:
Gable height (inches) ÷12.5 (face exposure) = courses required
NOTE: Gable height is measured from inside the
horizontal receiving channel to the peak (allowing
1/4" at top and bottom for expansion).
For example, with a 68" gable height, the calculations would
be 68 ÷ 12.5" = 5 with a remainder of 0.44. This means you
would need 5 full courses plus 0.44 x 12.5" (face exposure of
panel) = 5.5" measured from the top edge of the gap on the
upper course (illustrated). This is the visible height for your
starter course. The visible height is the vertical dimension of
the panel you’ll see below the first full row of rounds.
top of gap
5-1/2"
Once you’ve determined the visible height of the starter
course, mark this dimension on a Half-Rounds panel. Measure
from the top of the gap on the upper course (illustrated). Draw
a cutting line the entire length of panel.
Cut and use the top section, which contains the locks, as your
starter course. Cut enough panels to span base of the gable.
cut
remove
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Hanging the starter course
To end up with a single “round” centered at the peak of the
gable, you must properly locate the first starter panel.
9-3/8"
5-1/2"
Begin by marking a vertical plumb line from the peak.
Then measure and mark the finished height line. In our
example, using a starter course with a 5-1/2" visible height,
the finished height is 9-3/8".
finished
height line
plumb
line
With your ruler inserted into the pocket of the lower
J-channel, mark a line on the substrate equal to the finished
height (remember to allow 1/4" for expansion). Repeat at
several points along the gable base. Use these marks to
strike a horizontal level line that will guide the nailing of the
starter course.
9-3/8"
The point where the plumb line and the horizontal level line
intersect marks the starting point for hanging the first starter
course panel (if the first starter panel intersects the plumb line).
Determine whether you will center a “scallop” or a “V” at the
starting point. This decision is based on the number of
courses required to complete the gable.
remainder of
“scallop”
The rule of thumb is:
gap or “v”
30…F
65…F
100…F
Center an upper scallop if the initial calculations had less than
0.5 courses remaining (0.44 in our example).
Center the gap or “V” of the upper course if more than 0.5
courses remained.
(In our example we require 5.44 courses, so we would center
on a scallop.)
More than one panel will probably be required to reach the
plumb line. Measure from the plumb line into the pocket
receiving channel (leaving 1/4" for expansion) as illustrated at
left.
plumb
line
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If you require an odd number of courses (i.e. five full courses
plus starting course), subtract 8" from the distance from the
plumb line to the left receiving pocket (remember to allow 1/4"
for expansion).
If you require an even number of courses (i.e. 6 full courses
plus starting course), subtract 18-1/2" from the dimension.
plumb
line
NOTE: The 8" and 18-1/2" dimensions ensure having a full
centered scallop at the topmost part of the gable.
For example: If the measurement required to the plumb line
(minus 8" for an odd number of full courses) is 152", then
152"÷ 32" = 4 full panels plus 0.75% of one panel or 24"
measured from the edge of the texture on the right side
(temperature indicator side).
152"
8"
24"
30…F
65…F
100…F
Create a cutting guide as described earlier for gable
applications and trim first panel (for this example) at 24".
Continue to hang the remaining starter course strips,
remembering to center nail first.
mark
cut for roof slope
length of first
full panel
Installing first full panel
It is important to stagger the panels, as described in this
section. The easiest way to determine the length of panel
required is to measure from the alignment line on the nail
flange of the starter panel to the edge of the roof slope (see
illustration).
second
alignment
mark
30…F
65…F
100…F
Using this measurement, drill a hole centered in the remaining
nail flange as described earlier. Lock the first full exposure
panel to the starter course after trimming for roof slope.
After locking panel in place, center pin the panel.
line represents the bottom of
the first full course of scallops
Lapping remaining panels
The remaining panels to be installed must be lapped in
accordance with the current temperature.
length of first
full panel
30…F
65…F
100…F
Repeat this process for the entire course.
At the end of each course, trim panels to the gable angle. Be
sure to allow for expansion at the J-channels.
Installing the last round
When you reach the peak, trim the last round to the desired
height by removing the locks. Then face nail to the substrate,
using a color-matched finishing nail.
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Installing Restoration Shapes
Half-Rounds on Non-vertical Walls
no more than 33'
Half-Rounds must never be used as a roofing material.
However, they can be used on non-vertical walls that meet the
following conditions:
The non-vertical wall must not be greater than 10° off the
vertical (no less than an 80° angle).
The top of the wall cannot be higher than 33' above ground
level.
no less
than 80°
The non-vertical wall must not be a functional roof above
occupied space. It must be decorative.
Before you install Half-Rounds panels on a non-vertical wall,
install an underlayment of 15 lb. (minimum) felt or
waterproofing shingle.
Cap the uppermost edge of the top siding course to prevent
the water from getting behind the siding. Flash all accessories
to shed water away from the substrate, just in case water gets
behind the siding in these areas.
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Starting Half-Rounds
over Horizontal Siding
cut away and
discard
Cut away nail flange and discard.
hand
punch
slots
Hand punch nail slots in panel face and secure panel.
center nail in slot
of half-rounds
starter strip
Secure Half-Rounds Starter after hand punching and securing
siding piece.
Lock Half-Rounds panels into the starter strip and secure.
final
assembly
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Starting Half-Rounds
with Lineals over Horizontal Siding
half-rounds with
lower round removed
half-rounds panel is inserted into the
pocket of the lineal, making sure to
leave 1/4" for downward movement
5" lineal
1/4"
flashing
new construction
starter strip
butt dual undersill
trim upward against
bottom of flashing
dual undersill trim
hand-punched horizontal
siding (locking area has
been removed); siding
panel locks into dual
undersill trim
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Application of Half-Rounds
under Soffit
The amount of trimming required of a Half-Rounds panel
determines the accessory piece required to receive it. See the
descriptions below.
removal of nail flange up to the locking lug:
requires drilling new center hole, and punching a
slot on both ends (16" from center); this allows
for expansion
MADE IN USA
removal of 1-1/8" or more of nail flange: use
cornice receiver or deluxe F-channel and cornice
molding – drill a new center hole and punch a
slot on both ends (16" from center)
removal of 1-1/2" or more: use either J-channel
or cornice receiver and cornice molding – drill a
new center hole, and punch a slot on both ends
(16" from center)
removal of 3" or more: use standard 3/4" pocket
J-channel, or cornice receiver and cornice
molding combinations – drill a new center hole,
and punch a slot on both ends (16" from center)
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Wolverine Fit and Finish Installation Guide
Replacing a Damaged Restoration
Shapes Panel with the Repair Kit
(Option 1)
cam clip
Included in kit: cam clips, washers and pop rivets.
Required tools: hammer, utility knife, chisel, pop rivet gun, and
“wonder bar” or “roof snake bar”.
washer
pop rivet
wonder bar
roof snake bar
Removing the damaged panel
Cut a large rectangle out of the damaged panel. Cut or chisel
through the sides of the panel and remove lower half.
Pry nails out of the nail hem of the damaged panel.
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Push up on the panel to unlock and then pull down to remove
the damaged panel.
Preparing the new panel
Cut off all top locking tabs.
Flip panel over and cut 1/8" off the 3 side locking tabs.
Notch the side locking tab on a 45˚ angle.
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From the back, insert a pop rivet into a nail slot above one of
the locking tabs. Then place a cam clip and a washer over the
pop rivet. Squeeze the pop rivet gun to set the clip. Repeat
over each locking tab area. Now you are ready to install the
new panel.
Install 4 cam clips in nail slot locations from left to right 3, 13,
18, 28.
Installing the new panel
Slide the left side of the new panel into the side locking tabs.
As you raise the new panel into position, make sure the
bottom lip of the panel engages the locking tabs on the panel
below. Also, be sure all the cam cords hang down and are
visible.
Lift up the panel above the new panel far enough to place the
nails into the old nail holes.
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Using your Wonder Bar or roof snake bar, drive the nails in by
placing the bar on the nail head and hitting the bar with a
hammer.
While applying pressure to the top panel, pull down on the
cam cords. Make sure each cam clip engages the lip of the
panel above it. Keep pulling down on the cam cords until
they break off.
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Replacing a Damaged Restoration
Shapes Panel (Option 2)
Required tools: hammer, wood chisel and hacksaw or utility
knife.
Use a wood chisel to remove the lock tabs on the top side of
the damaged panel. Lock tabs can be located by using the
chisel to slightly lift the panel locked into the upper portion of
the damaged panel.
After locating the lock tabs, place the bevel of the chisel down
against the face of the damaged panel; use a hammer and the
chisel to knock off the lock tabs of the damaged panel. Then
pull the nails on the damaged panel and pull the panel down
and remove.
locate lock
tab with
chisel tip
On the replacement panel, use a hacksaw or utility knife to cut
the lock tabs to half their original length. Slide the replacement
panel back into the position of the removed damaged panel.
and remove
Use the hammer handle to put pressure against the bottom
butt of the replacement panel to force pressure upward
enough that the replacement panel will engage with the panel
above.
Drill a nail hole in the center of the top portion of the
replacement panel, then use a colored trim nail to control the
direction of expansion of the replacement.
NOTE: While this method provides an aesthetically
acceptable replacement, it does not actually secure the
panel to the wall. The only way to secure a replacement
panel with nails is to remove the siding from the top of the
wall down until the damaged panel can be removed.
restoration shapes panel
(upper course)
colored trim nail
restoration shapes panel
(lower course)
butt leg of upper
restoration shapes panel
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Random Hand-Split Shakes
Overview
The installation of Random Hand-Split Shake is unique in that
the lap joint is hidden in the ribs between the shake patterns.
Positioning the laps in the rib area requires that special
installation procedures be followed to maintain product
performance and aesthetics.
Factory Laps: All lap joints are cut at a predetermined point on
the panel during the manufacturing process. All laps must be
factory cut. There should be NO field cutting of laps.
Install from right to left: Panels must be installed from right to
left. The left panel will overlap the right panel.
Center Pinning: Each panel contains a short vertical slot,
perpendicular to the nail slots which indicates the center of the
panel. To maintain an aesthetically correct rib width at the lap
joint for warm and cold temperatures, it is necessary to limit
panel movement. This is accomplished by center pinning all
panels. Center pinning will prevent the rib width at the lap joint
from becoming too wide or too narrow.
Install the siding according to one of the following methods,
depending on whether the substrate is or is not fully nailable.
Installation procedure for fully nailable substrate
Lock the right side panel into place on the starter strip. Allow
room for expansion and contraction in all accessory pockets:
• 1/4" if temperature is above 40° F.
• 3/8" if temperature is below 40° F.
Locate the short, vertical slot on the nail hem and center pin
the panel in this location using one of the following options:
a. Install a nail on both ends of the same nail slot.
b. Pin the panel by fastening directly through the nail hem.
c. Drill a 3/16" diameter hole through the nail hem and
substrate, and place a single fastener through this newly
drilled hole.
Install nails in the center of the remaining slots, 16" apart.
Leave adequate room between the fastener head and the nail
flange for expansion and contraction (approximately 1/16" to
1/8").
IMPORTANT: DO NOT HARD NAIL THESE FASTENERS.
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alignment mark
Install the next panel to the left of the installed panel. Lap this
panel over the installed panel, positioning the right edge of the
panel to a vertical “alignment mark” located in the factory
notch area (approximately 1" from the left, top edge) of the
installed panel.
Fasten the panel according to the procedure described earlier.
Continue the first course of siding.
Start the next course of siding from the right side, repeating
the steps above. Remember, offset the laps from course to
course a minimum of two feet.
2' min.
Installation procedure for a NON-fully nailable
substrate
Lock the right side panel into place on the starter strip. Allow
room for expansion and contraction in all accessory pockets:
• 1/4" if temperature is above 40° F.
• 3/8" if temperature is below 40° F.
Locate the short, vertical slot on the nail hem (which indicates
the center of the panel). Locate the framing member (wall
stud) nearest the center of the panel and “center pin” the
panel into framing member using one of the following options:
a. If a nail slot is located over the framing member, install a
nail on both ends of the same nail slot.
wall stud
closest to
panel center
panel
b. Pin the panel by fastening directly through the nail hem.
non-nailable substrate center
c. Drill a 3/16" diameter hole through the nail hem and
framing member, and place a single fastener through this
newly drilled hole.
wall
stud
Install nails in the center of the remaining slots, 16" apart,
secured into a framing member. Leave enough room between
the fastener head and the nail flange for expansion and
contraction (approximately 1/16" to 1/8").
cut away view of wall construction
IMPORTANT: DO NOT HARD NAIL THESE FASTENERS.
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Install the next panel to the left of the installed panel. Lap this
panel over the installed panel, positioning the right edge of the
panel to the vertical “alignment mark” located in the factory
notch area (approximately 1" from the left, top edge) of the
installed panel.
Fasten the panel according the procedure described earlier
and continue the first course of siding.
Start the next course of siding from the right side, repeating
the steps above. Remember, offset the laps from course to
course a minimum of 2 feet.
To finish the top course
cornice receiver
Attach cornice receiver to the top of the wall under the eave or
soffit. Trim top panel to within 1/4" of cornice receiver. With a
nail slot punch, punch nail slots 16" apart, 1/4" from the
panel’s upper edge. Nail through the center of the holes for a
loose fit between panel surface and nail heads.
cornice
molding
1/4"
1/4"
Install the cornice molding by snapping it into the cornice
receiver. To join two lengths of cornice molding, remove 1"
from the snap-in portion of the cornice molding. Be careful not
to remove material from the face that will show upon installing.
Remove 1" from the return, which is located at the bottom of
the cornice molding. Install into cornice receiver and overlap,
allowing 1/4" for expansion. Be sure the laps are located away
from the heavy traffic areas, when possible.
NOTE: An alternative method to finishing the top course
with cornice molding and cornice receiver is to hide the
nail heads with the soffit receiving channel or with the
deluxe F-receiver and cornice molding.
hand-split shake panel
It may be necessary to place a spacer behind the L-receiver
before installing. Foam or some other material is adequate.
The spacer must run the entire distance of the L-receiver. This
will make the application more aesthetically pleasing by
creating the proper clearance between the cornice molding
and the channel pocket.
NOTE: Other than center pinning, installing from right to
left, and lapping to an alignment mark, standard fastening
procedures associated with vinyl siding are used.
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®
Installing Millennium Siding
Millennium siding, which features the NailTight™ Flexible Hem,
attaches tight to the wall and floats from PermaFlex™
suspension cables.
The flexible nail hem is woven of tough synthetic fibers. It has
red and black threads that form the “strike zone,” the
maximum performance target for fastening panels to the wall.
Storing Panels
Millennium panels can be stored like vinyl siding. However,
take care to ensure that the nail hem does not become folded
or permanently creased. If the nail hem is creased, hand
straighten it before fastening the panel to the wall.
Fasteners
Even though the NailTight Flexible Hem may be fastened
firmly to the wall, the fastener requirements are similar to
regular vinyl siding. Use only corrosion resistant aluminum
or galvanized roofing nails or screws with a minimum 3/8"
diameter.
Siding Nails and Screws
If a nail is used, the point and shank of the nail should target
the black strand and stay within the red strands.
With steel studs, use noncorrosive, self tapping screws with at
least 3/8" (9.5mm) diameter head and 1/8" (3mm) diameter
shaft. The screws must be at least 1-1/8" long. You may need
to install a washer to avoid spinning the fabric.
Staples
Installation with staples is similar to nails, except a minimum
of one of the staple legs must be within the red strands. The
staple should be corrosion-resistant, have legs long enough to
penetrate 3/4" into the wood of the subwall, and have a 7/16"
crown.
The angle of the staple is also important. A vertical position
(ideal) up to a 45° angle ensures the maximum wind load
resistance. Lesser angled or horizontal staples cause the load
to be distributed over a smaller number of cables.
Staple Orientation
best
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Fastening
Millennium siding is different from other vinyl siding in that it is
OK to drive the fastener up tight against the flexible hem. The
PermaFlex cable system transmits the load to the panel and
allows the panel to expand and contract with changes in
temperature.
Fastener Location
strike zone limits
Colored strands along the solid band of the flexible nail hem
identify the fastener target zone. The black strand indicates
the center of the target, while the red lines indicate the upper
and lower ranges of the zone. These limits are important to
ensure the panel has enough freedom to compensate for
temperature-related panel movement.
target
™
16" STUDNailing Indicator
Nails or staples must not be installed closer than 16" o.c. To
ensure proper nailing, STUDNailing™ Indicator arrows are
printed at 16" intervals along the Millennium panel. Fastening
the panel at these arrows will ensure consistent nailing.
STUDNailing indicator
Fastener Depth
With nails, staples or screws, it is important to not overdrive
the fastener. The fastener should be driven flush with the
substrate, not drawing the fabric into the substrate. This is
important especially over foam substrates as excessive
fastener penetration will draw the fabric in and limit its ability
to compensate for panel movement. The fabric cannot be
driven into the substrate more than 1/16".
NOTE: Nails or staples must not be
installed less than 16" on center.
Panel Lock
Millennium’s Grip-Lock™ feature allows the panel to snap and
lock positively into place. To allow for expansion and
contraction:
keep
cables
straight
• Do not pull on the panel as you lock it into place.
• Make sure the PermaFlex cables are straight.
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Non-Horizontal Applications
If installing these panels at 45° or less, hand punch a nail slot
in the vinyl or drill a clearance hole just above the lock hoop
area in the middle of the panel. You will “hang” the panel from
the center pin, so hand nail the center pin as you would a
typical vinyl siding panel. Then fasten the flexible hem. For
Starburst installation, see pages 109-111.
hand punched
nail slot
Installing Millennium without a Starter Strip
To install Millennium without a starter strip, install J-channel in
place of the starter strip. Then hand punch a nail slot in the
Millennium panel or drill a clearance hole just above the lock
hoop area in the middle of the panel. “Hang” the panel from
the center pin as you would a typical vinyl siding panel. Hand
nail the center pin. If the panel is less than 16", secure it with
two fasteners; otherwise, fasten the panel every 16" o.c.
hand punched
nail slot
J-channel
Removing Panels
To remove a panel, simply unlock the panel from the one
above to expose the flexible nail hem. Use a razor knife to cut
along the PermaFlex cables. Leave the nail hem on the wall or
simply cut “V”s around each fastener to save the panel for
another area. You can also use a flat prybar and work under
the fasteners, prying each one out of the substrate.
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Installing TrueComfort
TrueComfort™ insulated siding will help even out wall surfaces.
However, to minimize extremes in the peaks and valleys of
uneven walls, you may have to repair the underlayment. Make
sure the substrate is smooth and flat. If the surface is
significantly uneven, apply 1/4" foam sheathing before
installing TrueComfort siding.
Starter strips
Insulated siding is thicker than hollow vinyl siding. To
accommodate the 1-1/4" thickness, we recommend that you
use the TrueComfort starter strip.
3"
When you can’t use the TrueComfort starter strip, secure the
siding panel with a combination of utility trim and J-channel.
To do this, you will have to remove some of the foam backing
and shim accessories to accommodate the thickness of the
TrueComfort panel. (See Fitting into trim pieces, below.)
Fastening
Use 2" corrosion-resistant nails, and penetrate the wood
substrate by at least 3/4".
The nail flange on insulated siding is typically 3/4" thick. Drive
the nails until there is 1/16" between the nail head and the nail
flange.
Center the nail in the nail slot and drive the nail straight in. Do
not drive nails at an angle.
To install TrueComfort insulated siding, follow the STUDfinder
Installation System as described on the carton and on page
60 of this manual.
Fitting into trim pieces
Around windows, doors, and other openings, use 1-1/4"
J-channel and outside TrueComfort cornerposts. Insert the
factory- or field-cut end of the siding panel into the J-channel
or cornerpost. When the outside temperature is higher than
40° F, allow a 1/4" gap between the siding and the trim. When
the temperature is less than 40° F, leave a 3/8" gap.
1-1/4"
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dual
All other accessories should be fitted with foam shims and
fillers. These shims will ensure that the accessories are on the
same plane as the panels.
To fit panels into inside corners, remove 1-1/4" of additional
foam from the ends of factory-cut panels. Remove 2" of foam
from the ends of field-cut panels.
crimp
trim
foam
NOTE: If you use two 1-1/4" J-channels to form the inside
cornerpost (as shown on page 31), you do not have to use
shims or remove foam from the siding panels.
Around windows and doors
Because insulated siding is thicker than hollow vinyl siding,
windows, doors, and other openings may have to be built out
to avoid looking recessed. Use wood shims and either
aluminum trim coil or vinyl lineals to build out openings. In
some cases, the foam backing in TrueComfort siding will
create enough stiffness to span over or under a window
without additional support.
1-1/4" J-channel
If you are using utility trim or dual undersill trim to secure the
panel, shim the trim to accommodate the thickness of the
siding panel. Remove the top 1" of the foam backing so the
top of the panel fits into shimmed trim. Use a snap lock punch
to raise tabs every 6" to lock the panels into the trim.
nail slots
When you cut a siding panel to fit around an opening, use a
nail slot punch to create additional nail slots. Fasten through
these additional nail slots to secure the panel. Make sure the
face of the J-channel or other trim will cover the nail slots.
Under soffit
Secure the last course of siding under the soffit with utility
trim, dual undersill trim, or cornice receiver with cornice
molding. You will have to create tabs and nail slots as
described above. You will also have to shim the trim and
remove the top 1" of the foam so the top of the panel fits
into the trim.
Overlapping panels
On factory-cut panels, the foam is set back 3/4" from both
ends of the panel. The adhesive begins 1" back from the end
of the foam. To correctly overlap the panels, slip the vinyl edge
of the bottom portion of the seam between the foam and the
vinyl panel. Slide the panels together until the foam ends
touch.
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SECTION 9 – Special Situations
Trimming Curved Openings
Flexible J-channel simplifies installations around curved
objects such as half and full round windows. To install around
the top of an arched window, follow these simple steps:
Measure the circumference of the arch, then add 1-1/2" to
allow for overlap of the bottom J-channel.
Place the channel along one side of the window, leaving a 3/4"
section below the bottom edge of the window sill (shown).
Position the first nail at the base of the arch. Drive the nail
through the flange, tightly securing the flexible channel.
NOTE: This is an exception to the rule that says don’t
fasten vinyl tightly. When installed around curved objects,
flexible channel must be nailed tightly.
Place additional nails every 6" along the flange. Again, nail
tightly. Be sure the last nail is positioned at the base of the
opposite arch.
6"
Using a utility knife, cut through the back of the channel, at the
point where it extends beyond the bottom edge of the window
sill. Make a second cut perpendicular to the first at the base of
the channel face. The length of the cut should equal the length
of the extension (shown).
3/4"
window
bottom
3/4"
Put a 90° bend in the channel, then nail the resulting tab under
the window (shown).
Repeat at opposite ends of arch.
90°
To install the bottom J-channel, square cut the corners to
overlap the flexible J-channel. Use the same technique
described under “Installing window and door trim” (page 37).
Use pop-rivets to secure corners (shown). Use washers on the
inside of the rivets to prevent pull through.
NOTE: Remember to properly flash all windows.
pop
rivet
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Frieze Board
A frieze-board appearance can be created using the 3-1/2"
lineals in combination with new construction window starter or
J-channel used as a starter.
1"
Materials needed: 3-1/2" or 5" lineals, new construction
window starter or J-channel.
Position short leg of new construction window starter against
the soffit or overhang and nail in place.
Snap lineal onto locking edge of the new construction window
starter between starter and soffit/overhang, and nail in place.
Trim 1-1/2" from the return leg of the overlapping lineal. Make
a cut 1-1/2" at the 90° bend of the lineal face and inside
(locking) edge. Trim 1-1/2" from nail flange and receiving
channel. Overlap lineals 1" by fitting the notched lineal over
the un-notched lineal.
An alternative to using new construction window starter is to
use 1/2" J-channel as a starter. Install J-channel with back
edge against soffit or overhang, then slide lineal over
J-channel.
Decorative Sunbursts
Sunbursts are not a product; they are an installation technique
you can use to create an outstanding decorative finish at
major accent areas such as gable ends or over garage door
openings. Creating a decorative sunburst isn’t difficult, but it
does take patience and attention to detail. If you’re ready for a
professional challenge, add a sunburst to your next
installation.
NOTE: Because each sunburst installation involves unique
dimensions and angles, the following instructions outline
the basic technique. You must adapt these instructions to
your specific installation.
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J-channel
Materials needed: J-channel, starter strip, coil stock and
siding. When choosing a siding panel, remember that wider
panels install more quickly than narrow panels. In addition,
panels with decorative profiles – for example, dutchlap – are
impractical for sunburst applications. For best appearance and
easiest installation, choose from single exposure or larger face
double exposure panels.
Tools needed: In addition to standard installation tools, you’ll
need a nail hole punch and a pop rivet gun.
The following instructions assume an installation at a gable
end. Refer to illustrations for each step.
1-1/2"
Plumb J-channels back-to-back in the center of gable.
keep nail hem
Cut the nail hem and lock off a siding panel. Put the pieces
aside; you’ll need them for the final step.
Measure the distance between the J-channel and the rake.
Subtract an allowance for expansion. Cut the panel to this
length (“proper length” in illustration). Trim the panel at the
rake end to match the rake angle.
proper
length
third cut
keep butt
leg area
Cut the panel to the correct taper (third cut). This is a critical
step, because the “flaring” of each panel allows you to create
the sunburst’s arch. To create the taper on a single exposure
panel, start at the channel end of the panel. Mark a point
1-1/2" above the bottom butt. Then, on the opposite end,
mark a point where the upper edge of the panel meets the
rake. (If using double exposure panels, the mark goes under
the center butt. On double exposure panels, the upper
exposure is removed completely.) Now scribe a line between
both points and cut with a utility knife or snips.
Pop-rivet the nail hem and lock to the trimmed panel.
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Repeat until both sides of the sunburst are completed.
NOTE: To install the final panels at the top of the
sunburst, bow the panels slightly and slip them under the
gable end J-channel. For added protection against high
wind, you may have to face nail these panels.
Form a sleeve from aluminum coil stock and cover the center
J-channels. Secure with pop rivets.
Cut an arched section from coil stock to form the “sun”
portion of the sunburst. Leave a 1" strip below the arch and
bend out at a right angle. Fasten the piece in place using pop
rivets.
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SECTION 10 – Repair
Replacing a Damaged Siding Panel
To remove a damaged panel, insert the hook end of a zip tool
into the lock between the damaged panel and the panel
above. Pull downward. This will allow access to the damaged
panel’s nail flange. Remove the nails securing the panel.
NOTE: The nails may be allowed to stay in the wall if they
are driven flush with the substrate after the damaged
panel is removed. Remove damaged panel and install a
new panel, then use the zip tool to lock the new panel into
the panel above.
Replacing a Damaged
Outside Corner Post
Remove face portion of damaged post by scoring along
outside corner of receiving channel with a utility knife.
Remove the nailing flanges from the new cornerpost by
scoring and bending until the flanges snap off. Be sure to
score along inner corner of receiving channel.
Lap partial receiving channel of new post over partial channel
on remaining nail flange. Pop rivet the two receiving channel
legs together as needed.
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Repairing Buckled Siding at the Joist
Vinyl siding sometimes becomes buckled between the first
and second floors of a newly built siding installation due to
settling and shrinkage of wet lumber and some framing
practices. Using “engineered” lumber for the joist greatly
reduces the chances of shrinkage and settling and can help
prevent buckling of siding. If, however, you do have a building
with this situation, here is a way to correct the problem using
aluminum starter strip.
With a zip-lock tool unlock the buckled panel from the panel
below by inserting the hooked end of the tool behind the
return leg of the buckled panel until the hook catches. Pull
down and “unzip” the panel.
Insert an inverted scrap piece of starter strip into the exposed
receiving lock of the lower panel.
With the scrap piece inserted into the lock, lay the upper panel
over the starter strip. The starter strip should be visible behind
the upper panel. Mark a line on the scrap piece where the
return leg of the upper panel meets the scrap piece.
Trim the starter on this line, saving the portion with the locking
edge.
NOTE: Cut the starter strip in shorter lengths to ease
handling and relocking.
Insert the trimmed edge into the lock of the lower panel. Begin
at one end and, using a zip-lock tool, pull the return leg of the
upper panel down to engage the upper panel with the
aluminum starter strip.
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SECTION 11 – Miscellaneous
Cleaning Vinyl Siding
Vinyl siding resists most common household stains, but it will
become dirty like any product exposed to atmospheric
conditions. In areas not exposed to direct sun and rain,
periodic washing with a soft bristle brush and clean water
from a garden hose may be necessary to remove surface dirt.
Chalk may also accumulate on the surface. This is a normal
condition for pigmented materials exposed to the elements.
For best appearance, clean vinyl siding at least once a year.
To remove soil, grime and chalk from your siding, use a
garden hose, a soft bristle brush and a bucket of soapy water.
(You can also use the solution described below in the section
dealing with mildew.) To minimize streaking, wash the house
from the bottom up.
Thoroughly rinse the siding with clean water from a garden
hose. Avoid prolonged or high pressure rinsing of open
ventilated areas. Keep cleaning solution off surrounding
fixtures and surfaces not scheduled for washing.
Stubborn stains
If you can’t remove especially stubborn stains using normal
household detergents, request a cleaner from your siding
contractor or your local building materials retailer. Always test
any cleaner on an inconspicuous area before full use.
Mildew
Mildew may be a problem in some areas, especially warmer
climates with consistently high humidity. Mildew appears as
black spots on surface dirt and is usually detected in areas not
subjected to rainfall, such as under eaves and porch
enclosures. To remove mildew, prepare a solution as follows:
1/2 cup detergent (Tide, for example)
2/3 cup trisodium phosphate (Soilax, for example)
1 quart 5% sodium hypochlorite (Chlorox, for example)
3 quarts water
CAUTION: Greater concentration may cause damage to
the siding and soffit.
If the above solution does not readily remove mildew spots,
ask your siding contractor or your local building materials
retailer for a mildew cleaner.
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Siding over Asbestos
Vinyl siding retrofit over asbestos
This is a recommendation from the Vinyl Siding Institute after
discussions with Federal EPA officials. Because local
regulations supersede federal regulations, local EPA officials
should be contacted in the area where the work is being done.
The most desirable practice is not to disturb the existing
siding on the home. Apply sheathing over the existing
asbestos siding and then apply vinyl siding over the top of the
sheathing. The sheathing will serve to flatten the wall and also
retain any breakage of the cement asbestos siding. Nails
should be long enough to penetrate the sheathing, existing
asbestos siding and into the wall studs.
If there is a need to level or flatten a wall, apply furring strips
over sheathing.
In the case where the homeowner wants the existing cement
asbestos siding removed completely, removal should be done
by a professionally trained asbestos removal crew.
Please note that some jurisdictions require all asbestos
removal to be performed by a trained asbestos removal crew.
Historic Restoration
Vinyl Siding Institute recommended guidelines
If a building is in an historic area or has been designated an
historic building, be certain that approval for the use of vinyl
siding has been obtained from the local historic society. This
applies to building additions as well.
Before proceeding to re-side an historic building, the building
should be examined for moisture, insect infestation, structural
defects and other problems which may be present. These
problems should be addressed and the building pronounced
“healthy” before re-siding with any material.
Do not damage or remove the original siding. If at all possible,
do not alter the original structure so that the application of
vinyl siding is reversible (i.e. the original would remain intact
and some time in the future, if desired, the vinyl siding could
be removed). Exception: “In cases where a non-historic
artificial siding has been applied to a building, the removal of
such a siding before the application of vinyl siding would, in
most cases, be acceptable.” (Preservation Briefs, Number 8 -
U.S. Dept. of the Interior - 1984)
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Exercise every care to retain architectural details wherever
possible. Do not remove, cover or add details until you have
the building owner’s written approval. Determine that the
owner has consulted the local historic society regarding the
foregoing.
Use siding which closely approximates the appearance of the
original siding in color, size and style.
For More Information
We believe these instructions will enable you to successfully
complete a siding, soffit or porch ceiling installation. But we
also realize that no set of instructions can answer every
question or problem that might come up during a project. So if
you are in doubt about how to complete a specific procedure,
we suggest you try two avenues of help:
First, call or visit your building materials supplier. You should
be able to find someone with the knowhow and experience to
answer your question or solve your problem.
Second, if you need additional help, call us at 1-888-838-
8100. Our Sales Support Group representatives are always
ready to help you.
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